Analysis of cross-shore movement of natural longshore bars and material placed to create longshore bars /

At head of title: "Dredging Research Program."

Generation and nonlinear evolution of shore-oblique/transverse sand bars

The coupling between topography, waves and currents in the surf zone may selforganize to produce the formation of shore-transverse or shore-oblique sand bars on an otherwise alongshore uniform beach. In the absence of shore-parallel bars, this has been shown by previous studies of linear stability analysis, but is now extended to the finite-amplitude regime. To this end, a nonlinear model coupling wave transformation and breaking, a shallow-water equations solver, sediment transport and bed updating is developed. The sediment flux consists of a stirring factor multiplied by the depthaveraged current plus a downslope correction. It is found that the cross-shore profile of the ratio of stirring factor to water depth together with the wave incidence angle primarily determine the shape and the type of bars, either transverse or oblique to the shore. In the latter case, they can open an acute angle against the current (upcurrent oriented) or with the current (down-current oriented). At the initial stages of development, both the intensity of the instability which is responsible for the formation of the bars and the damping due to downslope transport grow at a similar rate with bar amplitude, the former being somewhat stronger. As bars keep on growing, their finite-amplitude shape either enhances downslope transport or weakens the instability mechanism so that an equilibrium between both opposing tendencies occurs, leading to a final saturated amplitude. The overall shape of the saturated bars in plan view is similar to that of the small-amplitude ones. However, the final spacings may be up to a factor of 2 larger and final celerities can also be about a factor of 2 smaller or larger. In the case of alongshore migrating bars, the asymmetry of the longshore sections, the lee being steeper than the stoss, is well reproduced. Complex dynamics with merging and splitting of individual bars sometimes occur. Finally, in the case of shore-normal incidence the rip currents in the troughs between the bars are jet-like while the onshore return flow is wider and weaker as is observed in nature.

Cross-shore transport in a daily varying upwelling regime: A case study of barnacle larvae on the southwestern Iberian coast.

With favored offshore and downstream advection, the question of which physical mechanism may promote onshore transport of larvae in upwelling systems is of central interest. We have conducted a semi-realistic high resolution (0.25 km) numerical study of Lagrangian transports across the inner-shelf under upwelling-favorable wind forcing conditions, focusing on the shelf area of the Southwestern Portuguese coast, in the lee of Cape Sines. We add our findings to several years of biological observations of C. montagui, a planktonic species with higher recruitment during the upwelling peak timely with the daylight flood. Simulations cover a fifteen days period during the summer of 2006. We focused on Spring and Neap tide periods and observed upfront differences between simulations and the in situ observa- tions. However, the model is capable of representing the main dynamics of the region, namely the re- petitive character of the inner-shelf currents. We find that the cross-shore flow varies significantly in the daily cycle, and locally within a scale of a few kilometers in association with local topography and the presence of the cape. We consider the region immediately in the lee of the cape to be an upwelling shadow where the larvae became retained, and found that tidally tied migration proves beneficial for successful recruitment during the spring tides period. Our work suggested that the wind is not the only mechanism responsible for the daily variability of the cross-shore exchange. However, its sharp reversal at midday is critical for the advection of larvae towards the coast.

Beach nourishment impact on Posidonia oceanica: Case study of Poniente Beach (Benidorm, Spain)

The importance of nourishment processes on the beaches of Mediterranean Sea has been increasing since the end of the 20th century due to its socio-economical awareness (tourismboost) and environmental implications (possible impact on Posidonia oceanica meadows and important processes of dredging and earth movements). However, in many cases, and especially in eastern Spain, relevant actions have been made which had caused that, after 20 years, the beaches in which these works were carried out will be in a similar situation with the original one. The present study analyzed the Poniente Beach (Benidorm, Spain), a beach where the nourishment works of 1991 have caused the disappearance of the Posidonia oceanica meadows and a regression process that will lead to the disappearance of the beach in a few years. To this end, data from bathymetry, georeferenced orthophotos, grain size analysis and swell study have been obtained and analyzed, understanding the importance of the works done to be consistent with the environment in which they were developed, and providing a work process which can ensure the existence of the nourished beach starting from the maintenance of Posidonia oceanica meadows.

Effect of morphodynamics on annual average zonation pattern of benthic macrofauna of exposed sandy beaches in Santa Catarina, Brazil

This study investigated the effect of environmental factors on the annual average zonation pattern of benthic macrofauna of sub-aerial profile of three exposed sandy beaches of Santa Catarina with different morphodynamic characteristics. Sampling was carried out between March 2000 and March 2001, with monthly frequency on reflective and dissipative morphodynamic extremes and bimonthly frequency on the intermediate state. Results showed that macrobenthic zonation presented marked differences across the morphodynamic spectrum. The main differences observed from reflective to dissipative conditions were: a) increase in the number of species in lower zones of the beach; b) expansion of zones characterized by high water content of sediment and c) increase in the overlapping of zones, mainly on lower levels of the beach. Canonical Correspondence Analysis related these differences to distinctive cross-shore gradients in sediment moisture levels, sediment reworking and mean grain size that exist across the morphodynamic spectrum, showing that it is important to analyze these environmental factors in studies conducted to investigate zonation on microtidal exposed sandy beaches.

Frontshear and backshear instabilities of the mean longshore current

An analytical model based on Bowen and Holman [1989] is used to prove the existence of instabilities due to the presence of a second extremum of the background vorticity at the front side of the longshore current. The growth rate of the so-called frontshear waves depends primarily upon the frontshear but also upon the backshear and the maximum and the width of the current. Depending on the values of these parameters, either the frontshear or the backshear instabilities may dominate. Both types of waves have a cross-shore extension of the order of the width of the current, but the frontshear modes are localized closer to the coast than are the backshear modes. Moreover, under certain conditions both unstable waves have similar growth rates with close wave numbers and angular frequencies, leading to the possibility of having modulated shear waves in the alongshore direction. Numerical analysis performed on realistic current profiles confirm the behavior anticipated by the analytical model. The theory has been applied to a current profile fitted to data measured during the 1980 Nearshore Sediment Transport Studies experiment at Leadbetter Beach that has an extremum of background vorticity at the front side of the current. In this case and in agreement with field observations, the model predicts instability, whereas the theory based only on backshear instability fai led to do so.

Shoreline change and storm-induced beach erosion modeling : a collection of seven papers /

Cover title.

Dominant wave energy and sediment movement on intertidal beaches in Freshwater Bay, Washington, U.S.A.

Freshwater Bay (FWB), Washington did not undergo significant erosion of its shoreline after the construction of the Elwha and Glines Canyon Dams, unlike the shoreline east of Angeles Point (the Elwha River’s lobate delta). In this paper I compare the wave energy density in the western and eastern ends of the Strait of Juan de Fuca with the wave energy density at the Elwha River delta. This indicates seasonal high- and low-energy regimes in the energy density data. I group multi-year surveys of four cross-shore transects in FWB along this seasonal divide and search for seasonal trends in profile on the foreshore. After documenting changes in elevation at specific datums on the foreshore, I compare digital images of one datum to determine the particle sizes that are transported during deposition and scour events on this section of the FWB foreshore. Repeat surveys of four cross-shore transects over a five-year period indicate a highly mobile slope break between the upper foreshore and the low-tide delta. Post-2011, profiles in eastern FWB record deposition in the landward portion of the low-tide terrace and also in the upper intertidal. Western FWB experiences transient deposition on the low-tide terrace and high intra-annual variability in beach profile. Profile elevation at the slope break in western FWB can vary 0.5 m in the course of weeks. Changes in surface sediment that range from sand to cobble are co-incident with these changes in elevation. High sediment mobility and profile variation are inconsistent with shoreline stability and decreased sediment from the presumed source on the Elwha River delta.

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure, data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions. The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols. (C) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

A two-dimensional analytical solution of groundwater responses to tidal loading in an estuary and ocean

Previous studies on tidal dynamics of coastal aquifers have focussed on the inland propagation of oceanic tides in the cross-shore direction, a configuration that is essentially one-dimensional. Aquifers at natural coasts can also be influenced by tidal waves in nearby estuaries, resulting in a more complex behaviour of head fluctuations in the aquifers. We present an analytical solution to the two-dimensional depth-averaged groundwater flow equation for a semi-infinite aquifer subject to oscillating head conditions at the boundaries. The solution describes the tidal dynamics of a coastal aquifer that is adjacent to a cross-shore estuary. Both the effects of oceanic and estuarine tides on the aquifer are included in the solution. The analytical prediction of the head fluctuations is verified by comparison with numerical solutions computed using a standard finite-difference method. An essential feature of the present analytical solution is the interaction between the cross- and along-shore tidal waves in the aquifer area near the estuary's entry. As the distance from the estuary or coastline increases, the wave interaction is weakened and the aquifer response is reduced, respectively, to the one-dimensional solution for oceanic tides or the solution of Sun (Sun H. A two-dimensional analytical solution of groundwater response to tidal loading in an estuary, Water Resour Res 1997;33:1429-35) for two-dimensional non-interacting tidal waves. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Two-dimensional approximation for tidal dynamics in coastal aquifers: Capillarity correction

Most previous investigations on tide-induced watertable fluctuations in coastal aquifers have been based on one-dimensional models that describe the processes in the cross-shore direction alone, assuming negligible along-shore variability. A recent study proposed a two-dimensional approximation for tide-induced watertable fluctuations that took into account coastline variations. Here, we further develop this approximation in two ways, by extending the approximation to second order and by taking into account capillary effects. Our results demonstrate that both effects can markedly influence watertable fluctuations. In particular, with the first-order approximation, the local damping rate of the tidal signal could be subject to sizable errors.

Numerical modelling of tide-induced beach water table fluctuations

Field studies have shown that the elevation of the beach groundwater table varies with the tide and such variations affect significantly beach erosion or accretion. In this paper, we present a BEM (Boundary Element Method) model for simulating the tidal fluctuation of the beach groundwater table. The model solves the two-dimensional flow equation subject to free and moving boundary conditions, including the seepage dynamics at the beach face. The simulated seepage faces were found to agree with the predictions of a simple model (Turner, 1993). The advantage of the present model is, however, that it can be used with little modification to simulate more complicated cases, e.g., surface recharge from rainfall and drainage in the aquifer may be included (the latter is related to beach dewatering technique). The model also simulated well the field data of Nielsen (1990). In particular, the model replicated three distinct features of local water table fluctuations: steep rising phase versus flat falling phase, amplitude attenuation and phase lagging.

Tide-induced water table fluctuations in coastal aquifers bounded by rhythmic shorelines

Previous studies on tidal water table dynamics in unconfined coastal aquifers have focused on the inland propagation of oceanic tides in the cross-shore direction based on the assumption of a straight coastline. Here, two-dimensional analytical solutions are derived to study the effects of rhythmic coastlines on tidal water table fluctuations. The computational results demonstrate that the alongshore variations of the coastline can affect the water table behavior significantly, especially in areas near the centers of the headland and embayment. With the coastline shape effects ignored, traditional analytical solutions may lead to large errors in predicting coastal water table fluctuations or in estimating the aquifer's properties based on these signals. The conditions under which the coastline shape needs to be considered are derived from the new analytical solution.

Self-organization mechanisms for the formation on nearshore crescentic and transverse sand bars

The formation and development of transverse and crescentic sand bars in the coastal marine environment has been investigated by means of a nonlinear numerical model based on the shallow-water equations and on a simpli ed sediment transport parameterization. By assuming normally approaching waves and a saturated surf zone, rhythmic patterns develop from a planar slope where random perturbations of small amplitude have been superimposed. Two types of bedforms appear: one is a crescentic bar pattern centred around the breakpoint and the other, herein modelled for the rst time, is a transverse bar pattern. The feedback mechanism related to the formation and development of the patterns can be explained by coupling the water and sediment conservation equations. Basically, the waves stir up the sediment and keep it in suspension with a certain cross-shore distribution of depth-averaged concentration. Then, a current flowing with (against) the gradient of sediment concentration produces erosion (deposition). It is shown that inside the surf zone, these currents may occur due to the wave refraction and to the redistribution of wave breaking produced by the growing bedforms. Numerical simulations have been performed in order to understand the sensitivity of the pattern formation to the parameterization and to relate the hydro-morphodynamic input conditions to which of the patterns develops. It is suggested that crescentic bar growth would be favoured by high-energy conditions and ne sediment while transverse bars would grow for milder waves and coarser sediment. In intermediate conditions mixed patterns may occur.