In-plant control of pollution : upgrading textile operations to reduce pollution.

"This seminar publication contains materials prepared for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency Technology Transfer Program and presented at industrial pollution-control seminars for the textile industry. This publication was coordinated by the Institute of Textile Technology, Charlottesville, Va."

Caractérisation et évaluation de textiles antifongiques

Hypothèse: L’impression sur textile d’une formulation de microparticules lipidiques avec un principe actif (éconazole nitrate) permet de conserver ou d’améliorer son activité pharmaceutique ex vivo et in vitro. Méthode: Une formulation de microparticules d’éconazole nitrate (ECN) a été formulée par homogénéisation à haut cisaillement, puis imprimée sur un textile LayaTM par une méthode de sérigraphie. La taille des microparticules, la température de fusion des microparticules sur textile et la teneur en éconazole du tissu ont été déterminées. La stabilité de la formulation a été suivie pendant 4 mois à 25°C avec 65% humidité résiduelle (RH). L’activité in vitro des textiles pharmaceutiques a été mesurée et comparée à la formulation commerciale 1% éconazole nitrate (w/w) sur plusieurs espèces de champignons dont le C. albicans, C. glabrata, C. kefyr, C. luminisitae, T. mentagrophytes et T. rubrum. La thermosensibilité des formulations a été étudiée par des tests de diffusion in vitro en cellules de Franz. L’absorption cutanée de l’éconazole a été évaluée ex vivo sur la peau de cochon. Résultats: Les microparticules d’éconazole avaient des tailles de 3.5±0.1 μm. La température de fusion était de 34.8°C. La thermosensibilité a été déterminée par un relargage deux fois supérieur à 32°C comparés à 22°C sur 6 heures. Les textiles ont présenté une teneur stable pendant 4 mois. Les textiles d’ECN in vitro ont démontré une activité similaire à la formulation commerciale sur toutes ii espèces de Candida testées, ainsi qu’une bonne activité contre les dermatophytes. La diffusion sur peau de cochon a démontré une accumulation supérieure dans le stratum corneum de la formulation textile par rapport à la formulation Pevaryl® à 1% ECN. La thermo-sensibilité de la formulation a permis un relargage sélectif au contact de la peau, tout en assurant une bonne conservation à température ambiante.

Configurações de semeadura e produção e qualidade da fibra do algodoeiro

We evaluated, in two locations, production and fiber quality of cultivar IAC 23 cotton plants in ultra-narrow row, narrow row and conventional row spacing, varying number of plants by linear meter. Two experiments had been lead, one in Piracicaba - SP and another one in Campinas - SP, both in the crop year 2001/02. The experimental design was randomized blocks, in a factorial scheme, with 4 replications, being three spacing rows: 0.38m (ultra-narrow), 0.76m (narrow), and 0.95 m (conventional); and four densities (5, 8, 11, and 14 plants by linear meter). In Piracicaba, the production of cotton was 12% and 8,4 % superior in the ultra-narrow row and narrow row, respectively, when compared to the conventional row. In the ultra-narrow row in the smaller density of plants in the line, the production of cotton was 29.2% and 22.3% superior, respectively, to the productions of the narrow row and conventional row in the same number of plants in the line. The smaller spacing and higher plant density on the line, the smaller the number of bolls per plant at both locations. The agronomic characters of laboratory and the technological characteristics of the fiber were not modified by the populations of plants in the two studied environments.

The Ultraviolet Protection Factor of Naturally-pigmented Cotton

Textile Technology: The sun-blocking properties of a textile are enhanced when a dye, pigment, delustrant, or ultraviolet absorber finish is present that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and blocks its transmission through a fabric to the skin. For this reason, dyed fabrics provide better sun protection than bleached fabrics. Since naturally-colored cottons contain pigments that produce shades ranging from light green to tan and brown, it seemed reasonable to postulate that they would provide better sun protection than conventional bleached cotton, and that natural pigments might prove more durable to laundering and light exposure than dyes, but there is no published research on the ultraviolet transmission values for naturally-pigmented cottons. The purpose of this study was to determine the ultraviolet protection (UPF) values of naturally-pigmented cotton in three shades (green, tan, and brown), and the effect of light exposure and laundering on the sun-blocking properties of naturally-pigmented cotton. Naturally-pigmented cotton specimens were exposed to xenon light and accelerated laundering, ultraviolet transmission values measured, and UPF values calculated following light exposure and laundering. The naturally-pigmented cottons exhibited significantly higher UPF values than conventional cotton (bleached or unbleached). Although xenon light exposure and laundering caused some fading, the UPF values of naturally-pigmented cotton continue to be sufficiently high so that all three shades continue to provide good sun protection after the equivalent of 5 home launderings and 80 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists fading units (AFUs) of xenon light exposure.

The influence of contact pressure, moisture, and compression time on the performance of cotton anti-contamination clothing

The objectives of this research were (1) to study the effect of contact pressure, compression time, and liquid (moisture content of the fabric) on the transfer by sliding contact of non-fixed surface contamination to protective clothing constructed from uncoated, woven fabrics, (2) to study the effect of contact pressure, compression time, and liquid content on the subsequent penetration through the fabric, and (3) to determine if varying the type of contaminant changes the effect of contact pressure, compression time, and liquid content on the transfer by sliding contact and penetration of non-fixed surface contamination. ^ It was found that the combined influence of the liquid (moisture content of the fabric), load (contact pressure), compression time, and their interactions significantly influenced the penetration of all three test agents, sucrose- 14C, triolein-3H, and starch-14C through 100% cotton fabric. The combined influence of the statistically significant main effects and their interactions increased the penetration of triolein- 3H by 32,548%, sucrose-14C by 7,006%, and starch- 14C by 1,900%. ^

Mechanistic modelling of pilling. Part II: Individual-fibre computational model

A one-dimensional computational model of pilling of a fibre assembly has been created. The model follows a set of individual fibres, as free ends and loops appear as fuzz and arc progressively withdrawn from the body of the assembly, and entangle to form pills, which eventually break off or are pulled out. The time dependence of the computation is given by ticks, which correspond to cycles of a wear and laundering process. The movement of the fibres is treated as a reptation process. A set of standard values is used as inputs to the computation. Predictions arc given of the change with a number Of cycles of mass of fuzz, mass of pills, and mass removed from the assembly. Changes in the standard values allow sensitivity studies to be carried out.

Mechanistic modelling of pilling. Part I: Detailing of mechanisms

Mechanistic models of pilling are discussed in general terms, and a framework for pilling simulations is thereby created. A fundamental flaw in earlier models of pilling is revealed. A more comprehensive model of fibre diffusion and withdrawal from the fabric is proposed, and this is solved in general terms to find the rate of fuzz growth. Fuzz wear-off and entanglement into pills are discussed. Fibre fatigue is introduced, and it is demonstrated that this potentially increases the rate of withdrawal of anchor fibres.

Design, physico-chemical characterization and bioactivity studies of hybrid nanostructured titanium surfaces for enhanced osseointegration

170 p.

Technology of textile design. A practical treatise on the construction and application of weaves for all textile fabrics... Containing also an appendix describing all the latest methods and improvements in designing and manufacturing.

Mode of access: Internet.

Technology of textile design : a practical treatise on the construction and application of weaves for all textile fabrics and the analysis of cloth : containing also an appendix describing all the latest methods and improvements in designing and manufacturing : for the use of students, operatives, overseers, designers, mill managers, commission merchants and manufacturers /

Mode of access: Internet.

An approach to absorptive capacity based on the Portuguese textile industry

The main purpose of this research is to identify the hidden knowledge and learning mechanisms in the organization in order to disclosure the tacit knowledge and transform it into explicit knowledge. Most firms usually tend to duplicate their efforts acquiring extra knowledge and new learning skills while forgetting to exploit the existing ones thus wasting one life time resources that could be applied to increase added value within the firm overall competitive advantage. This unique value in the shape of creation, acquisition, transformation and application of learning and knowledge is not disseminated throughout the individual, group and, ultimately, the company itself. This work is based on three variables that explain the behaviour of learning as the process of construction and acquisition of knowledge, namely internal social capital, technology and external social capital, which include the main attributes of learning and knowledge that help us to capture the essence of this symbiosis. Absorptive Capacity provides the right tool to explore this uncertainty within the firm it is possible to achieve the perfect match between learning skills and knowledge needed to support the overall strategy of the firm. This study has taken in to account a sample of the Portuguese textile industry and it is based on a multisectorial analysis that makes it possible a crossfunctional analysis to check on the validity of results in order to better understand and capture the dynamics of organizational behavior.

An approach to absorptive capacity based on the Portuguese textile industry(Final version)

The main purpose of this research is to identify the hidden knowledge and learning mechanisms in the organization in order to disclosure the tacit knowledge and transform it into explicit knowledge. Most firms usually tend to duplicate their efforts acquiring extra knowledge and new learning skills while forgetting to exploit the existing ones thus wasting one life time resources that could be applied to increase added value within the firm overall competitive advantage. This unique value in the shape of creation, acquisition, transformation and application of learning and knowledge is not disseminated throughout the individual, group and, ultimately, the company itself. This work is based on three variables that explain the behaviour of learning as the process of construction and acquisition of knowledge, namely internal social capital, technology and external social capital, which include the main attributes of learning and knowledge that help us to capture the essence of this symbiosis. Absorptive Capacity provides the right tool to explore this uncertainty within the firm it is possible to achieve the perfect match between learning skills and knowledge needed to support the overall strategy of the firm. This study has taken in to account a sample of the Portuguese textile industry and it is based on a multisectorial analysis that makes it possible a crossfunctional analysis to check on the validity of results in order to better understand and capture the dynamics of organizational behavior.

Degradation of all-inkjet-printed organic thin-film transistors with TIPS-pentacene under processes applied in textile manufacturing

Printed electronics represent an alternative solution for the manufacturing of low-temperature and large area flexible electronics. The use of inkjet printing is showing major advantages when compared to other established printing technologies such as, gravure, screen or offset printing, allowing the reduction of manufacturing costs due to its efficient material usage and the direct-writing approach without requirement of any masks. However, several technological restrictions for printed electronics can hinder its application potential, e.g. the device stability under atmospheric or even more stringent conditions. Here, we study the influence of specific mechanical, chemical, and temperature treatments usually appearing in manufacturing processes for textiles on the electrical performance of all-inkjet-printed organic thin-film transistors (OTFTs). Therefore, OTFTs where manufactured with silver electrodes, a UV curable dielectric, and 6,13-bis(triisopropylsilylethynyl) pentance (TIPS-pentacene) as the active semiconductor layer. All the layers were deposited using inkjet printing. After electrical characterization of the printed OTFTs, a simple encapsulation method was applied followed by the degradation study allowing a comparison of the electrical performance of treated and not treated OTFTs. Industrial calendering, dyeing, washing and stentering were selected as typical textile processes and treatment methods for the printed OTFTs. It is shown that the all-inkjet-printed OTFTs fabricated in this work are functional after their submission to the textiles processes but with degradation in the electrical performance, exhibiting higher degradation in the OTFTs with shorter channel lengths (L=10 μm).

Contribution to an efficient transmission of information to the textile fashion consumer and the influence in sustainable attitudes

The concepts involved in sustainable textile fashion, demanding good knowledge about raw materials, processes, end use properties and circuits amongst others, are able to determine the way the textile product is designed and the behavior of the consumer, regarding life style and buying decisions. The textile product`s life integrates raw materials, their processing, distribution, use by the consumer and destination of the product after useful lifetime, this is, his complete life cycle. It is very important to recognize the power of the consumer to influence parameters related to sustainability, namely when he decides how, when and why he buys and afterwards by the attitudes taken during and after use. The conscious act of consumption involves ethical, ecological and technical knowledge in which the concern is overall lifecycle of the fashion product and not exclusively aesthetic and symbolic values strongly related with its ephemeral nature. The present work proposes the classification of textile products by means of an innovative label aiming to establish a rating related to the Life of Fashion Products, by using parameters considered with especial impact in lifecycle, as textile fibers, processing conditions, generated wastes, commercialization circuits, durability and cleaning procedures. This label for sustainable fashion products aims to assist the stakeholders with informed attitudes and correct decisions in order to promote the objectives of sustainable fashion near designers, consumers and industrial experts.