THE ROLE OF NANOMATERIALS IN COSMETICS: NATIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL LEGISLATIVE ASPECTS

Nanotechnology is currently one of the fastest growing scientific fields. The products of this science have become part of our everyday lives. However, to date, regulatory agencies have not yet established a single definition for nanomaterials and nanotechnology. Therefore, each country has its own definitions and legislation to control products containing nanomaterials. Being relatively new materials, there are no long-term studies showing their impact on human health and the environment. Consequently, countries control the amount of nanomaterials present in cosmetics, allowing the end consumer to choose which cosmetic to use, by choosing products with or without nanomaterials. Therefore, the primary objective of this study was to identify the most used nanomaterials in cosmetics and verify whether these formulations are in accordance with the laws in force in the United States, the European Union and Brazil, thereby determining if the cosmetics on the market are in line with the existing laws in these three economic powers. This study is unique and will contribute to furthering the discussion on existing laws pertinent to the use of nanotechnology in cosmetics.

AMAZON RAINFOREST COSMETICS: CHEMICAL APPROACH FOR QUALITY CONTROL

The market for natural cosmetics featuring ingredients derived from Amazon natural resources is growing worldwide. However, there is neither enough scientific basis nor quality control of these ingredients. This paper is an account of the chemical constituents and their biological activities of fourteen Amazonian species used in cosmetic industry, including açaí (Euterpe oleracea), andiroba (Carapa guianensis), bacuri (Platonia insignis), Brazil nut (Bertholletia excelsa), buriti (Mauritia vinifera or M. flexuosa), cumaru (Dipteryx odorata), cupuaçu (Theobroma grandiflorum), guarana (Paullinia cupana), mulateiro (Calycophyllum spruceanum), murumuru (Astrocaryum murumuru), patawa (Oenocarpus bataua or Jessenia bataua), pracaxi (Pentaclethra macroloba), rosewood (Aniba rosaeodora), and ucuuba (Virola sebifera). Based on the reviewed articles, we selected chemical markers for the quality control purpose and evaluated analytical methods. Even though chromatographic and spectroscopic methods are major analytical techniques in the studies of these species, molecular approaches will also be important as used in food and medicine traceability. Only a little phytochemical study is available about most of the Amazonian species and some species such as açaí and andiroba have many reports on chemical constituents, but studies on biological activities of isolated compounds and sampling with geographical variation are limited.

Postharvest quality of cocona (Solanum sessiliflorum Dunal) stored under ambient condition

Cocona (Solanum sessiliflorum Dunal) is an important genetic resource that has been traditionally used for a variety of purposes, including food, medical and cosmetics applications. The objective of this study was evaluated the quality and the period of postharvest shelf life of cocona 'Mosquet", through the physical, chemical and physiological characterization of fruits stored under the ambient conditions. Physiologically mature fruits were harvested from an orchard, washed with tap water and soaked in a solution of the fungicide Prochloraz (49.5 g/100 L of water) for 5 minutes. After air drying, the fruits were packed in plastic containers and stored at 24 ± 2 ºC and relative humidity 60 ± 5% for 15 days. The fruits developed a respiratory climacteric respiratory patern and remained fit for consumption up to day 6 of storage, that is, without visual symptoms of loss of water and firmness. At this stage, the fruits showed firmness of 117,42 kPa, soluble solids of 6.62º Brix and citric acid of 1.22 %.

Desenvolvimento de um método de MEFS com CG-DIC para determinação de 1,4 dioxana em amostras de cosméticos

A headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) for the determination of 1,4 dioxane in cosmetics by gas chromatography is described. A manual SPME holder with 85 µm polyacrylate coating is utilized. The method is determined to have good resolution, satisfactory linerity (correlation coefficient r=0.997 for 0.20-10.00 mg Kg-1 range), a relative standard deviation of 6.3% and a detection limit of 5.00 µg Kg-1. Some cosmectic products were analyzed.

Estratégias de cultivo para produção dos plásticos biodegradáveis poli(3-Hidroxibutirato) e poli(3-hidroxibutirato-co-3-hidroxivalerato) por bactérias

Polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) are carbon and energy storage materials that are accumulated as intracellular granules in a variety of microorganisms during unbalanced growth. PHAs have drawn attention due to their properties similar to conventional plastics and complete biodegradability. They can be used for food and cosmetics packaging, and in medicine and agriculture. However, their applicability is reduced because of their high production cost compared to conventional plastics. An overview on production strategies of poly(3-hydroxybutyrate) and poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) aiming at reducing the production costs is presented.

Propriedades e aplicações recentes das ciclodextrinas

Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides comprised of six or more glucose units connected by alpha-1,4 bonds. They have hydrophobic cavities with a hydrophilic exterior, and are versatile receptors for a variety of substrates. This ability allows them to be applied in many fields, as distinct as supramolecular chemistry, nanotechnology, pharmaceuticals, green chemistry, agrochemicals, analytical chemistry, toiletries, foods, and cosmetics. This review summarizes several aspects related to the physico-chemical properties of CDs and discusses their potential applications illustrated by recent examples. The prospects for their use in several areas are also described.

Aplicação e avanços da espectroscopia de luminescência em análises farmacêuticas

This paper provides a review on the latest advances and applications of the luminescence spectroscopy for the development of pharmaceuticals analyses methods, basically based on the photo- and chemiluminescence. The different forms of the drugs determination on pharmaceuticals through the fluorescence and chemiluminescence are discussed. The analyses include the drugs native fluorescence (liquid and solid-phases); the fluorescence from the oxidizing or reducing forms of the drug; the fluorescence from the chemical derivatization and their photochemistry and hydrolysis reactions. The quenching of luminescence and chemiluminescence generation for the pharmaceutical quantification are also shown. Finally, the trends and future perspectives of the luminescence spectroscopy in the field of the pharmaceutical research are discussed.

Alginato bacteriano: aspectos tecnológicos, características e produção

Alginate is a biopolymer used for a variety of industrial applications, for example, in the textiles, cosmetics, foods, agricultural and biotechnological industries. This biopolymer is traditionally extracted from some brown seaweeds (Phaeophyceae) and can be produced by bacteria isolated from soil, as Azotobacter vinelandii, like capsular polysaccharide using glucose, sucrose, among others as carbon sources. The main difference between the alginate of seaweed and the bacterial ones, is the biggest degree of acetylation of this last one, with great influence in the gel force. These chemical characteristics and production of bacterial alginate are presented in this work.

Cutinases fúngicas: propriedades e aplicações industriais

Cutinases (EC 3.1.1.74) are also known as cutin hidrolases. These enzymes share catalytic properties of lipases and esterases, presenting a unique feature of being active regardless the presence of an oil-water interface, making them interesting as biocatalysts in several industrial processes involving hydrolysis, esterification and trans-esterification reactions. They are also active in different reaction media, allowing their applications in different areas such as food industry, cosmetics, fine chemicals, pesticide and insecticide degradation, treatment and laundry of fiber textiles and polymer chemistry. The present review describes the characteristics, potential applications and new perspectives for these enzymes.

Utilização do D-manitol em síntese orgânica

D-mannitol is used in several fields including food, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and textiles being an important carbohydrate found widespread in nature. Due to its chirality, it is largely used in organic synthesis with several applications, such as ligands, polymers, chiral pool, for preparation of small chiral building blocks, key intermediates in total synthesis. In this context, the aim of this review is to highlights recent applications of D-mannitol, especially in total synthesis.

Database of the Amazon aromatic plants and their essential oils

The aromatic flora of the Amazon has been inventoried for 30 years. In this sense, were made over 500 field trips to collect over 2500 plants and to obtain more than 2000 essential oils and aroma concentrates, all of them submitted to GC and GC-MS. This work led to the creation of a database for the aromatic plants of the Amazon, which catalogs general information about 1250 specimens. The database has allowed the publication of the chemical composition of the oils and aromas of more than 350 species, associated with a larger number of chemical types. The essential oils of many species offer optimum conditions for economic exploitation and use in national and international market of fragrances, cosmetics, agricultural and household pesticides.

Fotoprotetores derivados de produtos naturais: perspectivas de mercado e interações entre o setor produtivo e centros de pesquisa

Ultraviolet radiation is the major exogenous mediators of skin damage. To prevent such damage, sunscreen products are used. New research aims at both the elucidation of new sunscreen compounds, as well as new assets for supporting and synergistic action. In this article it is presented a systematic data of innovation for sunscreen and a discussion on prospects for partnership between universities and enterprises, where it is believed that the innovations in cosmetics, driven by the constant demand of the market in new products, may be a stimulus for the interactions between university and company in Brazil.

Aceite de almendras dulces: extracción, caracterización y aplicación

The extraction of sweet almond oil at room temperature and reflux is an easy and accessible procedure to obtain natural oil in a laboratory scale for undergraduates' courses in chemistry and related areas. In this paper we show how the utilization of Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy can be interesting in the qualitative analysis of these oils. We also propose the preparation of three different skin creams to demonstrate the effective uses of sweet almond oil in cosmetics and pharmaceutical fields.

Avaliação cinética da produção de biossurfactantes bacterianos

Biosurfactants present advantages in relation to the synthetic surfactants, as the biodegradability and low toxicity, and can be applied in the food industry, in pharmaceutical products, cosmetics and in the petroleum recovery. This paper aimed at selecting bacteria for biosurfactant production, evaluating the surface tension and the emulsifying activity and studying the fermentation process kinetics. The pure culture of Corynebacterium aquaticum showed capacity to promote emulsions formation and presented the smallest surface tension (28.8 mN m-1), and, in general, larger kinetic parameters, being selected as biosurfactant producer.

Carotenoids production: microorganisms as source of natural dyes

Carotenoids are natural dyes synthesized by plants, algae and microorganisms. Application in many sectors can be found, as food dyeing and supplementation, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and animal feed. Recent investigations have shown their ability to reduce the risks for many degenerative diseases like cancer, heart diseases, cataract and macular degeneration. An advantage of microbial carotenoids is the fact that the cultivation in controlled conditions is not dependent of climate, season or soil composition. In this review the advances in bio-production of carotenoids are presented, discussing the main factors that influence the microbial production of these dyes in different systems.