8 resultados para Color in textile crafts.

em Digital Commons at Florida International University


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This dissertation explores the similarities and differences which characterize the depiction of people of color in certain representative nineteenth century Cuban and Brazilian slavery novels as a function of the authorial approach of each territory's literary tradition toward the issues of slavery, racial prejudice, and people of color. The selected texts, derived from the peak periods in slavery literature of each territory, include Francisco , by Anselmo Snárez y Romero; Sab, by Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda; Cecilia Valdés , by Cirilo Villaverde; A escrava Isaura, by Bernardo Guimarães; O mulato, by Aluísio Azevedo; and Bom-Crioulo, by Adolfo Caminha. While the present study explores the enslavement, abuse, and discrimination of people of color as a consequence of a deep-seated discourse of power, privilege and racial superiority, it focuses more extensively on the representation of people of color, particularly in their capacity to constructively appropriate the cultural values of the white dominant group and recognize their identity as ambiguous. ^ Said's theories of Orientalist discourse and geography and formation as well as Dube's perspective on subaltern-oriented studies provide a theoretical framework for exploring the response of slavery writers whose common exposure to slavery but dissimilar socio-political contexts generate some startling findings. Crafted within a period of political repression, fear of black revolt, factional in-fighting as well as strong socioeconomic ties to the slaveholding class, the Cuban texts generally fashioned an approach to slavery as one marked by moderation, reform, and cultural counter discourse and consequently depict people of color with a more passive but culturally authentic outlook. On the other hand, the Brazilian response to the issue of slavery, steeped in an ideological amalgam of liberalism, positivism, republicanism, and abolitionism, is characterized by overt opposition to slavery and a representation of people of color that is less concerned with cross-cultural input but reclaims their humanity as highly educable and socially mobile persons in search of greater freedoms. Ultimately, there is a shared message of higher significance couched in the worthwhile mission of raising slaves to the level of men. ^

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Background and aims: Bilirubin is an orange-yellow tetrapyrrole produced from the breakdown of heme by mammals and some other vertebrates. Plants, algae, and cyanobacteria synthesize molecules similar to bilirubin, including the protein-bound bilins and phytochromobilin which harvest or sense light. Recently, we discovered bilirubin in the arils of Strelitzia nicolai, the White Bird of Paradise Tree, which was the first example of this molecule in a higher plant. Subsequently, we identified bilirubin in both the arils and flowers of Strelitzia reginae, the Bird of Paradise Flower. In the arils of both species, bilirubin is present as the primary pigment, and thus functions to produce color. Previously, no tetrapyrroles were known to generate display color in plants. We were therefore interested in determining whether bilirubin is broadly distributed in the plant kingdom, and whether it contributes to color in other species.

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Iridescent blue leaf coloration in four Malaysian rain forest understory plants, Diplazium tomentosum Bl. (Athyriaceae), Lindsaea lucida Bl. (Lindsaeaceae), Begonia pavonina Ridl. (Begoniaceae), and Phyllagathis rotundifolia Bl. (Melastomataceae) is caused by a physical effect, constructive interference of reflected blue light. The ultrastructural basis for this in D. tomentosum and L. lucida is multiple layers of cellulose microfibrils in the uppermost cell walls of the adaxial epidermis. The helicoidal arrangement of these fibrils is analogous to that which produces a similar color in arthropods. In B. pavonina and P. rotundifolia the blue-green coloration is caused by parallel lamellae in specialized plastids adjacent to the abaxial wall of the adaxial epidermis. The selective advantage of this color production, if any, is unknown.

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Strelitziaceae is a tropical monocot family comprising three genera and seven species: Ravenala Adans and Phenkospermum Endl., which are monotypic, and five species of Strelitzia Aiton. All species produce woody capsular fruits that contain vibrantly colored arillate seeds. Arils of the Strelitzia species are orange, those of Phenakospermum are red, and those of Ravenala are blue. Unlike most plant pigments, which degrade after cell death, aril pigments in the family persist for decades. Chemical properties of the compounds are unusual, and do not match those of known pigment classes (carotenoids, flavonoids, betalains, and the chlorophylls). I isolated the orange pigment from the arils of Strelitzia nicolai, and performed HPLC-ESMS, UV-visible, 1H NMR and 13C NMR analyses to determine its chemical structure. These data indicated the pigment was bilirubin-IX, an orange-yellow tetrapyrrole previously known only in mammals and some other vertebrates as the breakdown product of heme. Although related tetrapyrroles are ubiquitous throughout the plant kingdom and include vital biosynthetic products such as chlorophyll and phytochromobilin, this is the first report of bilirubin in a plant, and evidence of an additional biosynthetic pathway producing orange coloration in flowers and fruits. ^ Given the unexpected presence of bilirubin, Iexamined the fruits and flowers of twelve additional angiosperm species in diverse orders for the presence of bilirubin using HPLC and LC-MS. Bilirubin was present in ten species from the orders Zingiberales, Arecales, and Myrtales, indicating its wide distribution in the plant kingdom. Bilirubin was present in low concentrations in all species except those within Strelitziaceae. It was present in particularly high concentrations in S. nicolai, S. reginae and P. guyannense, and is thus responsible for producing color in these species. ^ No studies have examined the evolutionary relationship among all species in the family. Thus, I also constructed a molecular phylogeny of the family. This information, combined with further studies on the distribution and synthesis of bilirubin in plants, will provide a basis for understanding the evolutionary history of this pigment in the plant kingdom.^

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Iridescent blue leaf coloration in four Malaysian rain forest understory plants, Diplazium tomentosum Bl. (Athyriaceae), Lindsaea lucida Bi. (Lindsaeaceae), Begonia pavonina Ridl. (Begoniaceae), and Phyllagathis rotundifolia Bl. (Melastoma- taceae) is caused by a physical effect, constructive interference of reflected blue light. The ultrastructural basis for this in D. tomentosum and L. lucida is multiple layers of cellulose microfibrils in the uppermost cell walls of the adaxial epidermis. The helicoidal arrangement of these fibrils is analogous to that which produces a similar color in arthropods. In B. pavonina and P. rotundifolia the blue-green coloration is caused by parallel lamellae in specialized plastids adjacent to the abaxial wall of the adaxial epidermis. The selective advantage of this color production, if any, is unknown.

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Empirical research has shown that pubertal development is closely linked with adolescent externalizing (e.g., aggressive) and internalizing (e.g., anxiety) problems. In most studies, pubertal timing, pubertal status, or both, are used to examine this link. The present study adds to the existing literature by examining the link between puberty and adolescent behavior problems in a sample of predominantly urban African American adolescent girls. One hundred and seventeen adolescent girls of color, aged 11-18 (M = 14.72 SD = 1.44), and their primary caregiver participated in this study. Sixty-eight percent were African American, 22.2 % were Hispanic/Latina, and 9.4% were Haitian. Among the Hispanic/Latina girls, 9.4% were Black Hispanic/Latina. Results showed that pubertal status and perceived pubertal timing (breasts) are better predictors of externalizing behavior problems than chronological age and quality of relationship with peers. No significant findings were found with anxious/depressed symptoms.