Entre as tramas da indústria da moda: argumentos sobre o trabalho escravo contemporâneo na sociedade de consumo

Even after its abolition, the slave labor still exists in the world. In a new socio-historic context, the shackles and slave quarters have been left behind, nowadays the workers are tempted, subjected to degrading conditions and have their rights retrenched. The contemporary slave labor has been emerging as subject of research in the Organizational Studies since the early 2000s, calling attention to many gaps to be filled about the way organizations all around the world use this practice. Contemporary slave labor is found in many and various economic activities, since coal to textile industries or even stores. In this dissertation, we have incorporated the consumption dimension to the field of Organizational Studies, discussing the modern slavery, aiming to understand the consumers’ point of view about this topic, that is, we have researched the consumers’ interpretations concerning the slave labor in the fashion industry. Our objective is to analyze consumer’s argumentative construction in the decision of buying or not products made by industries from the fashion field that were denounced because of slave labor usage. We have adopted fashion industry as research focus because it obscures the reflection of the consumers that feel like in a new world while shopping, a world of beauty and fantasy, seeking their own satisfaction. Furthermore, the Brazilian fashion industry is one of the biggest of the world (ABIT, 2015), with a huge symbolic strength in the country. We have realized a qualitative research using semi-structured interviews with 35 consumers to identify their arguments according to the criteria defined by Liakopoulos (2002): data, propositions, guarantees, supports and refutations. The data are the statements used by the interviewees categorically, that is, those which are clear in the interviews. The propositions are what qualifies and justifies the used data. The guarantees are related to the nature of the data, they are what gives the sense to the data and are introduced implicitly in the interviewee speech. The supports are universal premises introduced in order to legitimate the arguments. The refutations, when present, counter the used arguments. As results, we’ve found consumers who developed arguments pro-consumption and anti-consumption and who have defended ideas about the responsibility of different actors for the existence of this practice and for the fight against it. From these two categories: (1) pro-consumption – consume despite the complaints and (2) anti-consumption – don’t consume, because of the accusations; we have identified the following argumentative lines: skepticism, faultfinding and moral engagement. By the end, we have presented the interviewees’ argumentative construction and the obtained results.

Escala diagramática e influência de sistemas de produção na ocorrência do crestamento gomoso da melancia

CHAPTER 1 - The gummy stem blight, caused by the fungus D. bryoniae, is a disease commonly found in watermelon cultivated in several countries. In Brazil, there are numerous studies related to the disease, but there are not uniform methods for quantifying of disease severity in the field. Thus, we developed a diagrammatic scale based on scanned photos of watermelon leaves infected with D. bryoniae. The scale developed showed levels of 0; 10; 20; 45; 65 and 90% of severity. The scale validation was divided into two parts: initially, 10 evaluators (half with experienced and other half without experience) estimated the disease severity based on the initial observation of 100 photos of watermelon leaves with symptoms of the disease at different severity levels. Before, the same evaluators estimated the disease severity with the support of the scale prepared from the Quant program. Data were analyzed using linear regression and were obtained angular, linear, and correlation coefficients. Based on these data, we determined the accuracy and precision of the evaluations. The correlation coefficients (R2) ranged from 0.88 - 0.97 for the experienced evaluators and from 0.55 - 0.95 for the inexperienced evaluators. The average angular coefficient (A) for inexperienced evaluators was 20.42 and 8.61 with and without the support of diagrammatic scale, respectively. Experienced evaluators showed values of average linear coefficient of 5.30 and 1.68 with and without the support of diagrammatic scale, respectively. The absolute errors analysis indicated that the use of diagrammatic scale contributed to minimize the flaws in the severity levels estimation. The diagrammatic scale proposed shown adequate for gummy stem blight severity evaluation in watermelon. CHAPTER 2 - The gummy stem blight (Didymella bryoniae) is a disease that affects the productivity of watermelon leading to losses over 40%. This study aimed to evaluate the efficiency of different production systems in control of gummy stem blight in watermelon for to establish efficient methods to combat the disease. There were applied the following treatments: conventional tillage (T1), integrated management (T2) and organic management (T3). In T1 and T2 were applied mineral fertilization and T3 was used bovine manure. There was application of fungicides and insecticides in commercial dose in T1 and T2, being after soil chemical analysis in T2. Disease severity was assessed by grading scale. The experimental design was randomized blocks. The severity of gummy stem blight has increased substantially during the fruit formation. Watermelon plants grown with integrated management (T2) showed lower levels of disease severity, while plants in organic management (T3) exhibited higher levels of severity. We conclude that management based on judicious accompaniments in field represents best way to achieve the phytosanitary aspect adequate for cultivation of watermelon in Tocantins.