13 resultados para cosmetic

em Aston University Research Archive


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Transglutaminases catalyse a diverse range of reactions leading to the modification of proteins and peptides such that their physical, chemical and biological properties become changed. They are found in many different living organisms and as a consequence display subtle differences in their biochemical and physical properties. it is therefore not surprising that this group of enzymes have been exploited as applied biocatalysts in a wide range of commercial sectors varying from the textile industry to the highly lucrative cosmetic industry. in addition the pathophysiological importance of this group of enzymes has increased significantly over the last decade with their involvement noted in a number of human diseases. As a consequence their identification as therapeutic targets or as monitoring aids for a range of different diseases has caused significant interest from the diagnostics and pharmaceutical industries. This review describes some of the current applications of transglutaminases; together with their potential strategic importance and future uses.

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The design and synthesis of biomaterials covers a growing number of biomedical applications. The use of biomaterials in biological environment is associated with a number of problems, the most important of which is biocompatabUity. If the implanted biomaterial is not compatible with the environment, it will be rejected by the biological site. This may be manifested in many ways depending on the environment in which it is used. Adsorption of proteins takes place almost instantaneously when a biomaterial comes into contact with most biological fluids. The eye is a unique body site for the study of protein interactions with biomaterials, because of its ease of access and deceptive complexity of the tears. The use of contact lenses for either vision correction and cosmetic reasons or as a route for the controlled drug delivery, has significantly increased in recent years. It is relatively easy to introduce a contact lens Into the tear fluid and remove after a few minutes without surgery or trauma to the patient. A range of analytical techniques were used and developed to measure the proteins absorbed to some existing commercial contact lens materials and also to novel hydrogels synthesised within the research group. Analysis of the identity and quantity of proteins absorbed to biomaterials revealed the importance of many factors on the absorption process. The effect of biomaterial structure, protein nature in terms of size. shape and charge and pH of the environment on the absorption process were examined in order to determine the relative up-take of tear proteins. This study showed that both lysozyme and lactoferrin penetrate the lens matrix of ionic materials. Measurement of the mobility and activity of the protein deposited into the surface and within the matrix of ionic lens materials demonstrated that the mobility is pH dependent and, within the experimental errors, the biological activity of lysozyme remained unchanged after adsorption and desorption. The study on the effect of different monomers copolymerised with hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) on the protein up-take showed that monomers producing a positive charge on the copolymer can reduce the spoilation with lysozyme. The studies were extended to real cases in order to compare the patient dependent factors. The in-vivo studies showed that the spoilation is patient dependent as well as other factors. Studies on the extrinsic factors such as dye used in colour lenses showed that the addition of colourant affects protein absorption and, in one case, its effect is beneficial to the wearer as it reduces the quantity of the protein absorbed.

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Hypercoiling poly(styrene-alt-maleic anhydride) (PSMA) is known to undergo conformational transition in response to environmental stimuli. The association of PSMA with lipid 2-dilauryl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DLPC) produces polymer-lipid complex analogues to lipoprotein assemblies found in lung surfactant. These complexes represent a new bio-mimetic delivery vehicle with applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. The primary aim of this study was to develop a better understanding of PSMA-DLPC association by using physical and spectroscopic techniques. Ternary phase diagrams were constructed to examine the effects of various factors, such as molecular weight, pH and temperature on PSMA-DLPC association. 31P-NMR spectroscopy was used to investigate the polymorphic changes of DLPC upon associating with PSMA. The Langmuir Trough technique and surface tension measurement were used to explore the association behaviour of PSMA both at the interface and in the bulk of solution, as well as its interaction with DLPC membranes. The ultimate aim of this study was to investigate the potential use of PSMA-DLPC complexes to improve the bioavailability and therapeutic efficacy of a range of drugs. Typical compounds of ophthalmic interest range from new drugs such as Pirenzepine, which has attracted clinical interest for the control of myopia progression, to the well-established family of non-steroid anti-inflammatory drugs. These drugs have widely differing structures, sizes, solubility profiles and pH-sensitivities. In order to understand the ways in which these characteristics influence incorporation and release behaviour, the marker molecules Rhodamine B and Oil Red O were chosen. PSMA-DLPC complexes, incorporated with marker molecules and Pirenzepine, were encapsulated in hydrogels of the types used for soft contact lenses. Release studies were conducted to examine if this smart drug delivery system can retain such compounds and deliver them at a slow rate over a prolonged period of time.

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This thesis is concerned with the development of hydrogels that adhere to skin and can be used for topical or trans dermal release of active compounds for therapeutic or cosmetic use. The suitability of a range of monomers and initiator systems for the production of skin adhesive hydro gels by photopolymerisation was explored and an approximate order of monomer reactivity in aqueous solution was determined. Most notably, the increased reactivity of N-vinyl pyrrolidone within an aqueous system, as compared to its low rate of polymerisation in organic solvents, was observed. The efficacy of a series of photoinitiator systems for the preparation of sheet hydrogels was investigated. Supplementary redox and thermal initiators were also examined. The most successful initiator system was found to be Irgacure 184, which is commonly used in commercial moving web production systems that employ photopolymerisation. The influence of ionic and non-ionic monomers, crosslinking systems, water and glycerol on the adhesive and dynamic mechanical behaviour of partially hydrated hydrogel systems was examined. The aim was to manipulate hydrogel behaviour to modify topical and transdermal delivery capability and investigated the possibility of using monomer combinations that would influence the release characteristics of gels by modifying their hydrophobic and ionic nature. The copolymerisation of neutral monomers (N-vinyl pyrrolidone, N,N-dimethyl acrylamide and N-acryloyl morpholine) with ionic monomers (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid; sodium salt, and the potassium salt of 3-sulphopropyl acrylate) formed the basis of the study. Release from fully and partially hydrated hydrogels was studied, using model compounds and a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug, Ibuprofen. Release followed a common 3-stage kinetic profile that includes an initial burst phase, a secondary phase of approximate first order release and a final stage of infinitesimally slow release such that the compound is effectively retained within the hydrogel. Use of partition coefficients, the pKa of the active and a knowledge of charge-based and polar interactions of polymer and drug were complementary in interpreting experimental results. In summary, drug ionisation, hydrogel composition and external release medium characteristics interact to influence release behaviour. The information generated provides the basis for the optimal design of hydrogels for specific dermal release applications and some understanding of the limitations of these systems for controlled release applications.

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The production and uses of coal tar are reviewed as are the uses of steroids and cytotoxic agents in the treatment of psoriasis with a review of the condition also. An attempt was made to improve the efficaciousness and cosmetic acceptability of a low temperature tar, by screening fractions of this tar, derived from a variety of separation procedures. The most efficacious fraction was the highest boiling acid fraction, which is believed to consist mainly of mono- and di-hydric phenols. A time and concentration study showed that the optimum regime was the application of a 10% concentration in 5% wool fat in soft, yellow paraffin daily for 21 days. The mouse tail skin was selected as an experimental model, to ascertain the efficaciousness of fractions, because of the similarities between this skin and the psoriatic lesion. The activity of a fraction was monitored by the inducement of a granular layer in the mouse tail epidermis. Because coal tar is not an easy medium to work with, and the active fractions showed no increase in cosmetic acceptability over the parent coal tar, likely coal tar constituents were selected for screening on the basis of phenolic character, and the molecular weight range elucidated by mass spectroscopy. 32 potential anti-psoriatic agents were screened on mouse tail. Two catechols, 3,5-di-t-butyl and 4-t-butyl catechols were active. Other structures showed little or no activity. 24 catechols were screened and two extremely active catechols were discovered, 3-methyl-5-t-octyl and 5-methyl-3-t-octyl catechols. The screening of catechol-rich coal tar fractions and a coal tar fraction which had had the catechols removed by oxidation, showed that some anti-psoriatic activity was contained in the catechol fraction of coal tar. Attempts to elucidate the mode of action of these two compounds met with little success, but two modes of action are suggested.

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The limbal vascular response to extended contact lens wear was examined in a group comparative study initially intended to last eighteen months. After six months all patients wearing contact lenses had presented with micro-epithelial cysts. This unanticipated occurrence of the micro-epithelial-cysts necessitated termination of the study, and limited the quantity of data collected. However, sufficient results were available to allow a limited description of •the vascular response to this form of contact lens wear. Interpretations of the date collected ore discussed in relation to suggested vasostimulating factors in the cornea. The micro-epithelial cysts observed after extended wear were classified and their rate of recovery recorded. A further clinical study was undertaken to observe cysts in both contact lens - and non contact lens-wearing eyes. Cysts were observed in every category of patient, although the characteristic patterns varied. These observations of micro-epithelial cysts are discussed with respect to the aetiopathogeneses of corneal epithelial cystic disorders. Subsequently, attempts were made to induce cysts in rabbit corneae by extended contact lens wear. Clinical observations revealed cyst-like appearances. Histological sections did not contain cysts but did exhibit signs characteristic •of cystic disorders of the corneal epithelium. In general, the results from the study indicate that extended wear is subjectively acceptable to contact lens wearers. However, the objective findings of significant vascular changes, micro-epithelial cysts and cases of acute red eye response cast considerable doubt on the recommendation of extended wear contact lenses for purely cosmetic applications.

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The airway epithelium is the first point of contact in the lung for inhaled material, including infectious pathogens and particulate matter, and protects against toxicity from these substances by trapping and clearance via the mucociliary escalator, presence of a protective barrier with tight junctions and initiation of a local inflammatory response. The inflammatory response involves recruitment of phagocytic cells to neutralise and remove and invading materials and is oftern modelled using rodents. However, development of valid in vitro airway epithelial models is of great importance due to the restrictions on animal studies for cosmetic compound testing implicit in the 7th amendment to the European Union Cosmetics Directive. Further, rodent innate immune responses have fundamental differences to human. Pulmonary endothelial cells and leukocytes are also involved in the innate response initiated during pulmonary inflammation. Co-culture models of the airways, in particular where epithelial cells are cultured at air liquid interface with the presence of tight junctions and differentiated mucociliary cells, offer a solution to this problem. Ideally validated models will allow for detection of early biomarkers of response to exposure and investigation into inflammatory response during exposure. This thesis describes the approaches taken towards developing an in vitro epithelial/endothelial cell model of the human airways and identification biomarkers of response to exposure to xenobiotics. The model comprised normal human primary microvascular endothelial cells and the bronchial epithelial cell line BEAS-2B or normal human bronchial epithelial cells. BEAS-2B were chosen as their characterisation at air liquid interface is limited but they are robust in culture, thereby predicted to provide a more reliable test system. Proteomics analysis was undertaken on challenged cells to investigate biomarkers of exposure. BEAS-2B morphology was characterised at air liquid interface compared with normal human bronchial epithelial cells. The results indicate that BEAS-2B cells at an air liquid interface form tight junctions as shown by expression of the tight junction protein zonula occludens-1. To this author’s knowledge this is the first time this result has been reported. The inflammatory response of BEAS-2B (measured as secretion of the inflammatory mediators interleukin-8 and -6) air liquid interface mono-cultures to Escherichia coli lipopolysaccharide or particulate matter (fine and ultrafine titanium dioxide) was comparable to published data for epithelial cells. Cells were also exposed to polymers of “commercial interest” which were in the nanoparticle range (and referred to particles hereafter). BEAS-2B mono-cultures showed an increased secretion of inflammatory mediators after challenge. Inclusion of microvascular endothelial cells resulted in protection against LPS- and particle- induced epithelial toxicity, measured as cell viability and inflammatory response, indicating the importance of co-cultures for investigations into toxicity. Two-dimensional proteomic analysis of lysates from particle-challenged cells failed to identify biomarkers of toxicity due to assay interference and experimental variability. Separately, decreased plasma concentrations of serine protease inhibitors, and the negative acute phase proteins transthyretin, histidine-rich glycoprotein and alpha2-HS glycoprotein were identified as potential biomarkers of methyl methacrylate/ethyl methacrylate/butylacrylate treatment in rats.

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The scenario planning literature is focused on corporate level interventions. There is a general consensus on the method, but there is little debate about the stages involved in building and using the scenarios. This article presents a case study of a scenario planning intervention, which was conducted at a business unit of the British division of one of the largest beauty and cosmetic products multinationals. The method adopted in this case study has some fundamental differences to the existing models used at corporate level. This research is based on the principles of autoethnography, since its purpose is to present self-critical reflections, enhanced by reflective and reflexive conversations on a scenario planning method used at business unit level. The critical reflections concern a series of critical incidents which distinguish this method from existing intuitive logic scenario planning models which are used at corporate level planning. Ultimately this article contributes to the scenario planning method literature by providing insights into its practice at business unit level. © 2012 Elsevier Ltd.

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The paper addresses a significant gap in the CSR literature indicated by the lack of studies that examine non-managerial stakeholders’ perceptions of the practice. Recent calls in the CSR literature have emphasised the importance of giving voice to non-managerial stakeholders groups. The research examines the perceptions of a wide group of stakeholders in the context of a developing country, Bangladesh. A series of semi-structured interviews were conducted with various stakeholder groups including employees, consumers, pressure groups, regulatory body and accounting professionals. The current practice of CSR in Bangladesh is interpreted in terms of ‘largely cosmetic responses’, ‘marketing strategy’ and ‘response to pressures from international markets’. Additionally, while some of the interviewees sharply criticised the current process of imposing social accounting codes/standards on developing countries which fail to consider the important local socio-economic context, the findings suggest that there is overwhelming support for mandatory externally verified CSR reporting based on the principles of peoples’ right to know, full disclosure/completeness, and relevance, which are anchored in the broader principles of transparency and accountability.

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Recent calls in the corporate social reporting (CSRep) literature have emphasized the importance of giving voice to non-managerial stakeholder groups in the social reporting process. The research, presented in this paper, employs recent work in stakeholder theory and CSRep to examine the perceptions of a diverse set of non-managerial stakeholders in the context of a developing country, Bangladesh. A series of semi-structured interviews were conducted with individuals who identify with various non-managerial stakeholder groups. Interviewees generally believed that the motivation and practice of CSRep in Bangladesh is developing in response to pressures from international markets and is producing largely cosmetic responses. Also, they expressed concerns that, given the economic, political, and social conditions in Bangladesh, premature adoption of strict CSRep standards may lead to increased corruption and other unintended consequences. Whilst some of the interviewees sharply criticized the current process of imposing social accounting codes/standards on developing countries which fail to consider the important local socio-economic context, the findings suggest that there is overwhelming support for mandatory externally verified CSRep based on the principles of peoples' right to know, full disclosure/completeness, and relevance, which are anchored in the broader principles of transparency and stakeholder accountability. © 2010 Springer Science+Business Media B.V.

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This paper explores the nature of private social and environmental reporting (SER). From interviews with UK institutional investors, we show that both investors and investees employ Goffmanesque, staged impression management as a means of creating and disseminating a dual myth of social and environmental accountability. The interviewees' utterances unveil private meetings imbued with theatrical verbal and physical impression management. Most of the time, the investors' shared awareness of reality belongs to a Goffmanesque frame whereby they accept no intentionality, misrepresentation or fabrication, believing instead that the 'performers' (investees) are not intending to deceive them. A shared perception that social and environmental considerations are subordinated to financial issues renders private SER an empty encounter characterised as a relationship-building exercise with seldom any impact on investment decision-making. Investors spoke of occasional instances of fabrication but these were insufficient to break the frame of dual myth creation. They only identified a handful of instances where intentional misrepresentation had been significant enough to alter their reality and behaviour. Only in the most extreme cases of fabrication and lying did the staged meeting break frame and become a genuine occasion of accountability, where investors demanded greater transparency, further meetings and at the extreme, divested shares. We conclude that the frontstage, ritualistic impression management in private SER is inconsistent with backstage activities within financial institutions where private financial reporting is prioritised. The investors appeared to be in a double bind whereby they devoted resources to private SER but were simultaneously aware that these efforts may be at best subordinated, at worst ignored, rendering private SER a predominantly cosmetic, theatrical and empty exercise. © 2013 Elsevier Ltd.

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Hypercoiling poly(styrene-ALT-maleic anhydride) (PSMA) is known to undergo conformational transition in response to environmental stimuli. This behavior allows it to associate with the phospholipid, 2-dilauryl-SN-glycero-3- phosphocholine (DLPC) to produce nanostructures analogous to lipoproteins. The complex represents a new bio-mimetic delivery vehicle with applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. This study investigates, for the first time, the association behavior of PSMA and DLPC through the combination of different analytical techniques. The results indicate that the association is primarily driven by hydrophobic interactions and depends on various factors including the polymer/lipid ratio, the polymer molecular weight and the pH of the aqueous environment. The conformational transition of PSMA leads to the formation of discrete micellar complexes involving anisotropic-to-isotropic lipid phase transformation. As the number of hydrophobic moieties in the polymer is increased, the pH-dependent conformational transition of the polymer plays less important part in achieving this phase transition of the lipid. © (2012) Trans Tech Publications.