6 resultados para Cosmetics.

em Aston University Research Archive


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Today, speciality use organoclays are being developed for an increasingly large number of specific applications. Many of these, including use in cosmetics, polishes, greases and paints, require that the material be free from abrasive impurities so that the product retains a smooth `feel'. The traditional `wet' method preparation of organoclays inherently removes abrasives naturally present in the parent mineral clay, but it is time-consuming and expensive. The primary objective of this thesis was to explore the alternative `dry' method (which is both quicker and cheaper but which provides no refining of the parent clay) as a process, and to examine the nature of the organoclays produced, for the production of a wide range of commercially usable organophilic clays in a facile way. Natural Wyoming bentonite contains two quite different types of silicate surface (that of the clay mineral montmorillonite and that of a quartz impurity) that may interact with the cationic surfactant added in the `dry' process production of organoclays. However, it is oil shale, and not the quartz, that is chiefly responsible for the abrasive nature of the material, although air refinement in combination with the controlled milling of the bentonite as a pretreatment may offer a route to its removal. Ion exchange of Wyoming bentonite with a long chain quaternary ammonium salt using the `dry' process affords a partially exchanged, 69-78%, organoclay, with a monolayer formation of ammonium ions in the interlayer. Excess ion pairs are sorbed on the silicate surfaces of both the clay mineral and the quartz impurity phases. Such surface sorption is enhanced by the presence of very finely divided, super paramagnetic, Fe2O3 or Fe(O)(OH) contaminating the surfaces of the major mineral components. The sorbed material is labile to washing, and induces a measurable shielding of the 29Si nuclei in both clay and quartz phases in the MAS NMR experiment, due to an anisotropic magnetic susceptibility effect. XRD data for humidified samples reveal the interlamellar regions to be strongly hydrophobic, with the by-product sodium chloride being expelled to the external surfaces. Many organic cations will exchange onto a clay. The tetracationic cyclophane, and multipurpose receptor, cyclobis(paraquat-p-phenylene) undergoes ion exchange onto Wyoming bentonite to form a pillared clay with a very regular gallery height. The major plane of the cyclophane is normal to the silicate surfaces, thus allowing the cavity to remain available for complexation. A series of group VI substituted o-dimethoxybenzenes were introduced, and shown to participate in host/guest interactions with the cyclophane. Evidence is given which suggests that the binding of the host structure to a clay substrate offers advantages, not only of transportability and usability but of stability, to the charge-transfer complex which may prove useful in a variety of commercial applications. The fundamental relationship between particle size, cation exchange capacity and chemical composition of clays was also examined. For Wyoming bentonite the extent of isomorphous substitution increases with decreasing particle size, causing the CEC to similarly increase, although the isomorphous substitution site: edge site ratio remains invarient throughout the particle size range studied.

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Grewia gum is obtained from the inner stem bark of the edible plant Grewia mollis Juss (Fam. Tiliaceae) which grows widely in the middle belt region of Nigeria, and is also cultivated. The dried and pulverised inner stem bark is used as a thickening agent in some food delicacies in that region of the country. This ability of the material to increase solution viscosity has generated a lot of interest and is the catalysing momentum for this research. Such materials have been used as stabilizers or suspending agents in cosmetics, foods and liquid medications, and as mucoadhesives and controlled release polymeric matrices in solid dosage forms. The physicochemical characterization of candidate excipients forms an essential step towards establishing suitability for pharmaceutical application. For natural gums, this usually requires isolation of the gum from the storage site by extraction processes. Grewia polysaccharide gum was extracted and dried using techniques such as air-drying, freeze-drying or spray-drying. Component analysis of the gum showed that it contains five neutral sugars: glucose, galactose, rhamnose, arabinose and xylose. The gum contains traces of elements such as zinc, magnesium, calcium and phosphorus. At low substance weight, the gum hydrates in aqueous medium swelling and dispersing to give a highly viscous dispersion with pseudoplasmic flow behaviour. The method by which drying is achieved can have significant effect on some physicochemical properties of the gum. Consequently, the intrinsic viscosity and molecular weight, and parameters of powder flow were shown to differ with the method of drying. The gum has good thermal stability. In comparison with established excipients, grewia gum may be preferable to gum Arabic or sodium carboxymethylcellulose as a suspending agent in ibuprofen suspension formulations. The release retardant property of the gum was superior to guar and Metolose® in ibuprofen matrices. Similarly, carboxy methylcellulose, Methocel®, gum Arabic or Metolose® may not be preferable to grewia gum when controlled release of a soluble drug like cimetidine is indicated. The mucoadhesive performance of the gum compared favourably with excellent mucoadhesives such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, guar and carbopol 971 P.

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The airway epithelium is the first point of contact in the lung for inhaled material, including infectious pathogens and particulate matter, and protects against toxicity from these substances by trapping and clearance via the mucociliary escalator, presence of a protective barrier with tight junctions and initiation of a local inflammatory response. The inflammatory response involves recruitment of phagocytic cells to neutralise and remove and invading materials and is oftern modelled using rodents. However, development of valid in vitro airway epithelial models is of great importance due to the restrictions on animal studies for cosmetic compound testing implicit in the 7th amendment to the European Union Cosmetics Directive. Further, rodent innate immune responses have fundamental differences to human. Pulmonary endothelial cells and leukocytes are also involved in the innate response initiated during pulmonary inflammation. Co-culture models of the airways, in particular where epithelial cells are cultured at air liquid interface with the presence of tight junctions and differentiated mucociliary cells, offer a solution to this problem. Ideally validated models will allow for detection of early biomarkers of response to exposure and investigation into inflammatory response during exposure. This thesis describes the approaches taken towards developing an in vitro epithelial/endothelial cell model of the human airways and identification biomarkers of response to exposure to xenobiotics. The model comprised normal human primary microvascular endothelial cells and the bronchial epithelial cell line BEAS-2B or normal human bronchial epithelial cells. BEAS-2B were chosen as their characterisation at air liquid interface is limited but they are robust in culture, thereby predicted to provide a more reliable test system. Proteomics analysis was undertaken on challenged cells to investigate biomarkers of exposure. BEAS-2B morphology was characterised at air liquid interface compared with normal human bronchial epithelial cells. The results indicate that BEAS-2B cells at an air liquid interface form tight junctions as shown by expression of the tight junction protein zonula occludens-1. To this author’s knowledge this is the first time this result has been reported. The inflammatory response of BEAS-2B (measured as secretion of the inflammatory mediators interleukin-8 and -6) air liquid interface mono-cultures to Escherichia coli lipopolysaccharide or particulate matter (fine and ultrafine titanium dioxide) was comparable to published data for epithelial cells. Cells were also exposed to polymers of “commercial interest” which were in the nanoparticle range (and referred to particles hereafter). BEAS-2B mono-cultures showed an increased secretion of inflammatory mediators after challenge. Inclusion of microvascular endothelial cells resulted in protection against LPS- and particle- induced epithelial toxicity, measured as cell viability and inflammatory response, indicating the importance of co-cultures for investigations into toxicity. Two-dimensional proteomic analysis of lysates from particle-challenged cells failed to identify biomarkers of toxicity due to assay interference and experimental variability. Separately, decreased plasma concentrations of serine protease inhibitors, and the negative acute phase proteins transthyretin, histidine-rich glycoprotein and alpha2-HS glycoprotein were identified as potential biomarkers of methyl methacrylate/ethyl methacrylate/butylacrylate treatment in rats.

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The potential replacement, partially or fully, of synthetic additives by bio-based alternatives derived from indigenous renewable non-food crop resources offers a market opportunity for a green supply of raw materials for different industrial and health products, with greater involvement of the farming community in crop production while addressing the ever more stringent environmental and pollution laws that now require the use of less potentially toxic/harmful ingredients, even if they are present in relatively small quantities. The work presented here relates to developing a new genre of environmentally-sustainable bio-based antioxidants (AO) for industrial uses that are obtained from extracts of UK-grown rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) plant. The performance of these AOs was tested, and their efficacy compared with some common and benchmark synthetic AOs from the same chemical class, in different products including polymers especially for packaging, as well as lubricants, cosmetics and health products. One of the main active ingredients in rosemary is Rosmarinic acid which is a water-soluble compound. This was chemically transformed into a number of ester derivatives, Rosmarinates, targeted for different applications. The parent and the modified antioxidants (the rosmarinates) were characterised and their antioxidancy were examined and tested in linear low-density polyethylene (LLDPE) and in polypropylene (PP) and compared with compounds of similar structure and with other well known synthetic antioxidants used commercially in polyolefins. The results show that antioxidants sourced from rosemary have the added benefit of being highly efficient and intrinsically more active than many synthetic and bio-based alternatives.

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Recent changes to the legislation on chemicals and cosmetics testing call for a change in the paradigm regarding the current 'whole animal' approach for identifying chemical hazards, including the assessment of potential neurotoxins. Accordingly, since 2004, we have worked on the development of the integrated co-culture of post-mitotic, human-derived neurons and astrocytes (NT2.N/A), for use as an in vitro functional central nervous system (CNS) model. We have used it successfully to investigate indicators of neurotoxicity. For this purpose, we used NT2.N/A cells to examine the effects of acute exposure to a range of test chemicals on the cellular release of brain-derived neurotrophic factor (BDNF). It was demonstrated that the release of this protective neurotrophin into the culture medium (above that of control levels) occurred consistently in response to sub-cytotoxic levels of known neurotoxic, but not non-neurotoxic, chemicals. These increases in BDNF release were quantifiable, statistically significant, and occurred at concentrations below those at which cell death was measureable, which potentially indicates specific neurotoxicity, as opposed to general cytotoxicity. The fact that the BDNF immunoassay is non-invasive, and that NT2.N/A cells retain their functionality for a period of months, may make this system useful for repeated-dose toxicity testing, which is of particular relevance to cosmetics testing without the use of laboratory animals. In addition, the production of NT2.N/A cells without the use of animal products, such as fetal bovine serum, is being explored, to produce a fully-humanised cellular model.

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Grewia gum was extracted from the inner stem bark of Grewia mollis and characterized by several techniques such as gas chromatography (GC), gel permeation chromatography (GPC), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis of the extracted sample. Spectroscopic techniques such as x-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), fourier-transformed infrared (FT-IR), solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), and 1H and 13C NMR techniques were also used to characterize the gum. The results showed that grewia gum is a typically amorphous polysaccharide gum containing glucose, rhamnose, galactose, arabinose and xylose as neutral sugars. It has an average molecular weight of 5925 kDa expressed as the pullulan equivalent. The gum slowly hydrated in water, dispersing and swelling to form a highly viscous dispersion exhibiting pseudoplastic flow behaviour. The polysaccharide gum is thermally stable and may have application as stabilizer or suspending agent in foods, cosmetics and in pharmaceuticals. It may have application as a binder or sustained-release polymer matrix in tablets or granulations. © IPEC-Americas Inc.