Decade Wind and Wave Data for NW Iberia, Cabo Sillerio

Seafloor sediment mobilization on the inner Northwest Iberian continental shelf is caused largely by ocean surface waves. The temporal and spatial variability in the wave height, wave period, and wave direction has a profound effect on local sediment mobilization, leading to distinct sediment mobilization scenarios. Six grain-size specific sediment mobilization scenarios, representing seasonal average and storm conditions, were simulated with a physics-based numerical model. Model inputs included meteorological and oceanographic data in conjunction with seafloor grain-size and the shelf bathymetric data. The results show distinct seasonal variations, most importantly in wave height, leading to sediment mobilization, specifically on the inner shelf shallower than 30 m water depth where up to 49% of the shelf area is mobilized. Medium to severe storm events are modeled to mobilize up to 89% of the shelf area above 150 m water depth. The frequency of each of these seasonal and storm-related sediment mobilization scenarios is addressed using a decade of meteorological and oceanographic data. The temporal and spatial patterns of the modeled sediment mobilization scenarios are discussed in the context of existing geological and environmental processes and conditions to assist scientific, industrial and environmental efforts that are directly affected by sediment mobilization. Examples, where sediment mobilization plays a vital role, include seafloor nutrient advection, recurrent arrival of oil from oil-spill-laden seafloor sediment, and bottom trawling impacts.

Compressional and shear wave velocities and elastic constants at DSDP Leg 59 Holes

Prior to the Deep Sea Drilling Project the composition of the oceanic crust could only be inferred from seismic-refraction and gravity data and the recovery of a wide variety of dredged rocks. Through the success of the Deep Sea Drilling Project, it is now clear that the top of oceanic Layer 2 usually consists of basalt. Several laboratory studies (e.g., Fox et al., 1972; Christensen and Shaw, 1970; Hyndman and Drury, 1976) have demonstrated that the seismic velocities of oceanic basalt are similar to velocities reported from refraction studies of Layer 2 and that the variability in Layer 2 velocities has many causes, the most important being fracturing and sea-floor alteration produced by the interaction of basalt and sea water (Christensen and Salisbury, 1973). To date, most reported measurements of velocities in oceanic basalts are from samples obtained from the main ocean basins. With the exception of an earlier study of velocities and related elastic properties of a suite of rocks from DSDP Sites 292, 293, 294, and 296 located in the Philippine Sea (Christensen et al., 1975; Fountain et al., 1975), elastic properties have not been determined for oceanic rocks from marginal basins. In this chapter compressional- and shear-wave velocities and elastic constants are reported at elevated confining pressures for basalt and volcanic breccias from Holes 447A, 448, and 448A.

(Table 1) Compressional and shear wave velocities and elastic constants of DSDP Hole 83-504B basalts

Compressional and shear wave velocities at confining pressures to 6 kb, densities, and porosities were measured for 32 samples obtained from 836 to 1350 m below seafloor (BSF) in Hole 504B, the section drilled on Leg 83 of the Deep Sea Drilling Project. These data in combination with similar measurements on 28 basalt samples from the section from 274.5 to 836 m, drilled on Legs 69 and 70, provide a comprehensive set of physical property data for over 1000 m of oceanic crust. The velocities, densities, and porosities measured in the laboratory exhibit greater variability in the upper portion of the hole. In general, compressional and shear wave velocities and densities increase with depth, reaching average values at 1 kbar of Vp = 6.45 km/s, Ks = 3.45 km/s and p = 2.94 g/cm3 within the sheeted dike section. Porosities decrease with depth to values generally less than 1% near the bottom of the hole

Results of wave modelling for Moreton Bay, Southeast Queensland, and a reef lagoon off Lizard Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia

The distribution, abundance, behaviour, and morphology of marine species is affected by spatial variability in the wave environment. Maps of wave metrics (e.g. significant wave height Hs, peak energy wave period Tp, and benthic wave orbital velocity URMS) are therefore useful for predictive ecological models of marine species and ecosystems. A number of techniques are available to generate maps of wave metrics, with varying levels of complexity in terms of input data requirements, operator knowledge, and computation time. Relatively simple "fetch-based" models are generated using geographic information system (GIS) layers of bathymetry and dominant wind speed and direction. More complex, but computationally expensive, "process-based" models are generated using numerical models such as the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model. We generated maps of wave metrics based on both fetch-based and process-based models and asked whether predictive performance in models of benthic marine habitats differed. Predictive models of seagrass distribution for Moreton Bay, Southeast Queensland, and Lizard Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia, were generated using maps based on each type of wave model. For Lizard Island, performance of the process-based wave maps was significantly better for describing the presence of seagrass, based on Hs, Tp, and URMS. Conversely, for the predictive model of seagrass in Moreton Bay, based on benthic light availability and Hs, there was no difference in performance using the maps of the different wave metrics. For predictive models where wave metrics are the dominant factor determining ecological processes it is recommended that process-based models be used. Our results suggest that for models where wave metrics provide secondarily useful information, either fetch- or process-based models may be equally useful.