Results of wave modelling for Moreton Bay, Southeast Queensland, and a reef lagoon off Lizard Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia

The distribution, abundance, behaviour, and morphology of marine species is affected by spatial variability in the wave environment. Maps of wave metrics (e.g. significant wave height Hs, peak energy wave period Tp, and benthic wave orbital velocity URMS) are therefore useful for predictive ecological models of marine species and ecosystems. A number of techniques are available to generate maps of wave metrics, with varying levels of complexity in terms of input data requirements, operator knowledge, and computation time. Relatively simple "fetch-based" models are generated using geographic information system (GIS) layers of bathymetry and dominant wind speed and direction. More complex, but computationally expensive, "process-based" models are generated using numerical models such as the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model. We generated maps of wave metrics based on both fetch-based and process-based models and asked whether predictive performance in models of benthic marine habitats differed. Predictive models of seagrass distribution for Moreton Bay, Southeast Queensland, and Lizard Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia, were generated using maps based on each type of wave model. For Lizard Island, performance of the process-based wave maps was significantly better for describing the presence of seagrass, based on Hs, Tp, and URMS. Conversely, for the predictive model of seagrass in Moreton Bay, based on benthic light availability and Hs, there was no difference in performance using the maps of the different wave metrics. For predictive models where wave metrics are the dominant factor determining ecological processes it is recommended that process-based models be used. Our results suggest that for models where wave metrics provide secondarily useful information, either fetch- or process-based models may be equally useful.

(Table 2) Compressional and shear wave velocites from basalts and sediments of the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean

Compressional (Vp) and shear (Vs) wave velocities have been measured to 1.0 kbar for 14 cores of well-consolidated sedimentary rock from Atlantic and Pacific sites of the Deep Sea Drilling Project. The range of VP (2.05-5.38 km/sec at 0.5 kbar) shows significant overlap with the range of oceanic layer-2 seismic velocities determined by marine refraction surveys, suggesting that sedimentary rocks may, in some regions, constitute the upper portion of layer 2. Differing linear relationships between VP and Vs for basalts and sedimentary rocks, however, may provide a method of resolving layer-2 composition. This is illustra ted for a refraction survey site on the flank of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge where layer-2 velocities agree with basalt, and two sites on the Saya de Malha Bank in the Indian Ocean where layer-2 velocities appear to represent sedimentary rock.