Wave height (regular and irregular waves) reduction in 2m water depth over a 40-m-long salt marsh test section in a large scale laboratory flume

Coastal communities around the world face increasing risk from flooding as a result of rising sea level, increasing storminess, and land subsidence. Salt marshes can act as natural buffer zones, providing protection from waves during storms. However, the effectiveness of marshes in protecting the coastline during extreme events when water levels and waves are highest is poorly understood. Here, we experimentally assess wave dissipation under storm surge conditions in a 300-m-long wave flume that contains a transplanted section of natural salt marsh. We find that the presence of marsh vegetation causes considerable wave attenuation, even when water levels and waves are high. From a comparison with experiments without vegetation, we estimate that up to 60% of observed wave reduction is attributed to vegetation. We also find that although waves progressively flatten and break vegetation stems and thereby reduce dissipation, the marsh substrate remained remarkably stable and resistant to surface erosion under all conditions.The effectiveness of storm wave dissipation and the resilience of tidal marshes even at extreme conditions suggest that salt marsh ecosystems can be a valuable component of coastal protection schemes.

Observations on the propagation of internal tidal waves on the continental slope off Sierra Leone

During R/V Meteor-cruise no. 30 4 moorings with 17 current meters were placed on the continental slope of Sierra Leone at depths between 81 and 1058 meters. The observation period started on March 8, 1973, 16.55 hours GMT and lasted 19 days for moorings M30_068MOOR, M30_069MOOR, M30_070MOOR on the slope and 9 days for M30_067MOOR on the shelf. One current meter recorded at location M30_067MOOR for 22 days. Hydrographic data were collected at 32 stations by means of the "Kieler Multi-Meeressonde". Harmonic analysis is applied to the first 15 days of the time series to determine the M2 and S2 tides. By vertically averaging of the Fourier coefficients the field of motion is separated into its barotropic and its baroclinic component. The expected error generated by white Gaussian noise is estimated. To estimate the influence of the particular vertical distribution of the current meters, the barotropic M2 tide is calculated by ommitting and interchanging time series of different moorings. It is shown that only the data of moorings M30_069MOOR, M30_070MOOR and M30_067MOOR can be used. The results for the barotropic M2 tide agree well with the previous publications of other authors. On the slope at a depth of 1000 m there is a free barotropic wave under the influence of the Coriolis-force propagating along the slope with an amplitude of 3.4 cm S**-1. On the shelf, the maximum current is substantially greater (5.8 cm s**-1) and the direction of propagation is perpendicular to the slope. As for the continental slope a separation into different baroclinic modes using vertical eigenmodes is not reasonable, an interpretation of the total baroclinic wave field is tried by means of the method of characteristis. Assuming the continental slope to generate several linear waves, which superpose, baroclinic tidal ellipses are calculated. The scattering of the direction of the major axes M30_069MOOR is in contrast to M30_070MOOR, where they are bundled within an angle of 60°. This is presumably caused by the different character of the bottom topography in the vicinity of the two moorings. A detailed discussion of M30_069MOOR is renounced since the accuracy of the bathymetric chart is not sufficient to prove any relation between waves and topography. The bundeling of the major axes at M30_070MOOR can be explained by the longslope changes of the slope, which cause an energy transfer from the longslope barotropic component to the downslope baroclinic component. The maximum amplitude is found at a depth of 245 m where it is expected from the characteristics originating at the shelf edge. Because of the dominating barotropic tide high coherence is found between most of the current meters. To show the influence of the baroclinic tidal waves, the effect of the mean current is considered. There are two periods nearly opposite longshore mean current. For 128 hours during each of these periods, starting on March 11, 05.00, and March 21, 08.30, the coherences and energy spectra are calculated. The changes in the slope of the characteristics are found in agreement with the changes of energy and coherence. Because of the short periods of nearly constant mean current, some of the calculated differences of energy and coherence are not statistically significant. For the M2 tide a calculation of the ratios of vertically integrated total baroclinic energy and vertically integrated barotropic kinetic energy is carried out. Taking into account both components (along and perpendicular to the slope) the obtained values are 0.75 and 0.98 at the slope and 0.38 at the shelf. If each component is considered separately, the ratios are 0.39 and 1.16 parallel to the slope and 5.1 and 15.85 for the component perpendicular to it. Taking the energy transfer from the longslope component to the doenslope component into account, a simple model yields an energy-ratio of 2.6. Considering the limited application of the theory to the real conditions, the obtained are in agreement with the values calculated by Sandstroem.

Spatiotemporal monitoring of water quality in coral reefs of Tayrona National Natural Park, Colombian Caribbean, 2011-2013

Tayrona National Natural Park (TNNP; 11°17' - 11°22' N and 73°53' - 74°12' W) is a hotspot of coral reef biodiversity in the Colombian Caribbean, located between the city of Santa Marta (>455,000 inhabitants) and several smaller river mouths (Rio Piedras, Mendihuaca, Guachaca). The region experiences a strong seasonal variation in physical parameters (temperature, salinity, wind, and water currents) due to alternating dry seasons with coastal upwelling and rainy seasons. Here, a range of water quality parameters relevant for coral reef functioning is provided. Water quality was measured directly above local coral reefs (~10 m water depth) by a monthly monitoring for up to 25 months in the four TNNP bays (Chengue, Gayraca, Neguanje, and Cinto) and at sites with different degree of exposition to winds, waves and water currents (exposed vs. sheltered sites) within each bay. The water quality parameters include: inorganic nutrient (nitrate, nitrite and soluble reactive phosphorus), chlorophyll a, particulate organic carbon and nitrogen concentrations (with a replication of n=3) as well as oxygen availability, biological oxygen demand, seawater pH, and water clarity (with a replication of n=4). This is by far the most comprehensive coral reefs water quality dataset for the region. A detailed description of the methods can be found within the referenced publications.

Coral reef development in response to large amplitude internal waves and monsoon impact

The Andaman Sea and other macrotidal semi-enclosed tropical seas feature large amplitude internal waves (LAIW). Although LAIW induce strong fluctuations i.e. of temperature, pH, and nutrients, their influence on reef development is so far unknown. A better-known source of disturbance is the monsoon affecting corals due to turbulent mixing and sedimentation. Because in the Andaman Sea both, LAIW and monsoon, act from the same westerly direction their relative contribution to reef development is difficult to discern. Here, we explore the framework development in a number of offshore island locations subjected to differential LAIW- and SW-monsoon impact to address this open question. Cumulative negative temperature anomalies - a proxy for LAIW impact - explained a higher percentage of the variability in coral reef framework height, than sedimentation rates which resulted mainly from the monsoon. Temperature anomalies and sediment grain size provided the best correlation with framework height suggesting that so far neglected subsurface processes (LAIW) play a significant role in shaping coral reefs.

Water chemistry and fluffy layer geochemistry and mineral content at four sites in the western Baltic Sea

The fluffy layer was sampled repeatedly during nine expeditions between October 1996 and December 1998 at four stations situated along a S-N-transect from the Oder Estuary to the Arkona Basin. Geochemical and mineralogical analyses of the fluff show regional differences (trends) in composition, attributed to provenance and to hydrographical conditions along their transport pathways. Temporal variability is very high at the shallow water station of the estuary, and decreases towards the deeper stations in the north. In the shallow water area, intensive resuspension of the fluff due to wind-driven waves and currents leads to an average residence time of only one to two days. Near-bottom lateral transport of the fluff is the main process that transfers the fine grained material, containing both nutrients and contaminants, from the coastal zone into the deeper basins of the Baltic Sea. Seasonal effects (e.g. biogenic production in relation to trace metal variation) are observed at the Tromper Wiek station, where the residence time of the fluffy material is in the scale of seasons. Thus, the fluffy layer offers suitable material for environmental monitoring programs.

Coral communities exposed to differential large amplitude internal waves cooling and a severe heat stress in 2010 in the Andaman Sea

Tropical scleractinian corals are particularly vulnerable to global warming as elevated sea surface temperatures (SST) disrupt the delicate balance between the coral host and their algal endosymbionts, leading to symbiont expulsion, mass bleaching and mortality. While satellite sensing of SST has proven a good predictor of coral bleaching at the regional scale, there are large deviations in bleaching severity and mortality on the local scale, which are only poorly understood. Here, we show that internal waves play a major role in explaining local coral bleaching and mortality patterns in the Andaman Sea. In spite of a severe region-wide SST anomaly in May 2010, frequent upslope intrusions of cold sub-pycnocline waters due to breaking large amplitude internal waves (LAIW) alleviated heating and mitigated coral bleaching and mortality in shallow LAIW-exposed waters. In LAIW-sheltered waters, by contrast, bleaching susceptible species suffered severe bleaching and total mortality. These findings suggest that LAIW, which are ubiquitous in tropical stratified waters, benefit coral reefs during thermal stress and provide local refugia for bleaching susceptible corals. The swash zones of LAIW may thus be important, so far overlooked, conservation areas for the maintainance of coral diversity in a warming climate. The consideration of LAIW can significantly improve coral bleaching predictions and can provide a valuable tool for coral reef conservation and management.

Food selectivity and processing by the cold-water coral Lophelia pertusa

Cold-water corals form prominent reef ecosystems along ocean margins that depend on suspended resources produced in surface waters. In this study, we investigated food processing of 13C and 15N labelled bacteria and algae by the cold-water coral Lophelia pertusa. Coral respiration, tissue incorporation of C and N and metabolic-derived C incorporation into the skeleton were traced following the additions of different food concentrations (100, 300, 1300 µg C/l) and two ratios of suspended bacterial and algal biomass (1:1, 3:1). Respiration and tissue incorporation by L. pertusa increased markedly following exposure to higher food concentrations. The net growth efficiency of L. pertusa was low (0.08±0.03), which is consistent with their slow growth rates. The contribution of algae and bacteria to total coral assimilation was proportional to the food mixture in the two lowest food concentrations, but algae were preferred over bacteria as food source at the highest food concentration. Similarly, the stoichiometric uptake of C and N was coupled in the low and medium food treatment, but was uncoupled in the high food treatment and indicated a comparatively higher uptake or retention of bacterial carbon as compared to algal nitrogen. We argue that behavioural responses for these small-sized food particles, such as tentacle behaviour, mucus trapping and physiological processing, are more likely to explain the observed food selectivity as compared to physical-mechanical considerations. A comparison of the experimental food conditions to natural organic carbon concentrations above CWC reefs suggests that L. pertusa is well adapted to exploit temporal pulses of high organic matter concentrations in the bottom water caused by internal waves and down-welling events.