Wave height (regular and irregular waves) reduction in 2m water depth over a 40-m-long salt marsh test section in a large scale laboratory flume

Coastal communities around the world face increasing risk from flooding as a result of rising sea level, increasing storminess, and land subsidence. Salt marshes can act as natural buffer zones, providing protection from waves during storms. However, the effectiveness of marshes in protecting the coastline during extreme events when water levels and waves are highest is poorly understood. Here, we experimentally assess wave dissipation under storm surge conditions in a 300-m-long wave flume that contains a transplanted section of natural salt marsh. We find that the presence of marsh vegetation causes considerable wave attenuation, even when water levels and waves are high. From a comparison with experiments without vegetation, we estimate that up to 60% of observed wave reduction is attributed to vegetation. We also find that although waves progressively flatten and break vegetation stems and thereby reduce dissipation, the marsh substrate remained remarkably stable and resistant to surface erosion under all conditions.The effectiveness of storm wave dissipation and the resilience of tidal marshes even at extreme conditions suggest that salt marsh ecosystems can be a valuable component of coastal protection schemes.

Directional wave measurements using the Offshore Sensing Sailbuoy, link to MATLAB file

An autonomous vessel, the Offshore Sensing Sailbuoy, was used for wave measurements near the Ekofisk oil platform complex in the North Sea (56.5 N, 3.2 E, operated by ConocoPhilllips) from 6 to 20 November 2015. Being 100% wind propelled, the Sailbuoy has two-way communication via the Iridium network and has the capability for missions of six months or more. It has previously been deployed in the Arctic, Norwegian Sea and the Gulf of Mexico, but this was the first real test for wave measurements. During the campaign it held position about 20km northeast of Ekofisk (on the lee side) during rough conditions. Mean wind speed measured at Ekofisk during the campaign was near 9.8m/s, with a maximum of 20.4m/s, with wind mostly from south and south west. A Datawell MOSE G1000 GPS based 2Hz wave sensor was mounted on the Sailbuoy. Mean significant wave height (Hs 1hr) measured was 3m, whereas maximum Hs was 6m. Mean wave period was 7.7s, while maximum wave height, Hmax, was 12.6m. These measurements have been compared with non-directional Waverider observations at the Ekofisk complex. Mean Hs at Ekofisk was 3.1m, while maximum Hs was 6.5m. Nevertheless, the correlation between the two measurements was high (97%). Spectra comparison was also good, except for low Hs (~1m), where the motion of the vessel seemed to influence the measurements. Nevertheless, the Sailbuoy performed well during this campaign, and results suggests that it is a suitable platform for wave measurements in rather rough sea conditions.

Results of wave modelling for Moreton Bay, Southeast Queensland, and a reef lagoon off Lizard Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia

The distribution, abundance, behaviour, and morphology of marine species is affected by spatial variability in the wave environment. Maps of wave metrics (e.g. significant wave height Hs, peak energy wave period Tp, and benthic wave orbital velocity URMS) are therefore useful for predictive ecological models of marine species and ecosystems. A number of techniques are available to generate maps of wave metrics, with varying levels of complexity in terms of input data requirements, operator knowledge, and computation time. Relatively simple "fetch-based" models are generated using geographic information system (GIS) layers of bathymetry and dominant wind speed and direction. More complex, but computationally expensive, "process-based" models are generated using numerical models such as the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model. We generated maps of wave metrics based on both fetch-based and process-based models and asked whether predictive performance in models of benthic marine habitats differed. Predictive models of seagrass distribution for Moreton Bay, Southeast Queensland, and Lizard Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia, were generated using maps based on each type of wave model. For Lizard Island, performance of the process-based wave maps was significantly better for describing the presence of seagrass, based on Hs, Tp, and URMS. Conversely, for the predictive model of seagrass in Moreton Bay, based on benthic light availability and Hs, there was no difference in performance using the maps of the different wave metrics. For predictive models where wave metrics are the dominant factor determining ecological processes it is recommended that process-based models be used. Our results suggest that for models where wave metrics provide secondarily useful information, either fetch- or process-based models may be equally useful.

Decade Wind and Wave Data for NW Iberia, Cabo Sillerio

Seafloor sediment mobilization on the inner Northwest Iberian continental shelf is caused largely by ocean surface waves. The temporal and spatial variability in the wave height, wave period, and wave direction has a profound effect on local sediment mobilization, leading to distinct sediment mobilization scenarios. Six grain-size specific sediment mobilization scenarios, representing seasonal average and storm conditions, were simulated with a physics-based numerical model. Model inputs included meteorological and oceanographic data in conjunction with seafloor grain-size and the shelf bathymetric data. The results show distinct seasonal variations, most importantly in wave height, leading to sediment mobilization, specifically on the inner shelf shallower than 30 m water depth where up to 49% of the shelf area is mobilized. Medium to severe storm events are modeled to mobilize up to 89% of the shelf area above 150 m water depth. The frequency of each of these seasonal and storm-related sediment mobilization scenarios is addressed using a decade of meteorological and oceanographic data. The temporal and spatial patterns of the modeled sediment mobilization scenarios are discussed in the context of existing geological and environmental processes and conditions to assist scientific, industrial and environmental efforts that are directly affected by sediment mobilization. Examples, where sediment mobilization plays a vital role, include seafloor nutrient advection, recurrent arrival of oil from oil-spill-laden seafloor sediment, and bottom trawling impacts.

Oil slicks and hydrocarbons in sea water

Surface and upper-layer pollution of seas and oceans by crude oil and refinery products is under study by investigators in many countries. The Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (IOC) and World Meteorological Organization (WMO) have prepared an international experimental project that is to be carried out within the framework of the Integrated Global Oceanic Station System (IGOSS). The purpose of the project is to prepare a picture of distribution and dynamics of oil pollution. Parameters to be observed include: oil patches (slicks), floating lumps of tar on the surface, and hydrocarbons emulsified and dissolved in water. Cruise 22 of R/V Akademik Kurchatov took the ship through regions being the most suitable for pollution studies. They were conducted from March through June 1976. On the cruise, oil slicks were observed visually by a procedure recommended by the international program. Areas of the slicks were determined from speed of the ship and time required to cross them. Surface samples were taken along the path of the ship for determination of concentrations of dissolved and emulsified hydrocarbons in water. In addition, samples were taken from deep water by a 7-liter vinyl water bottle at 17 stations. Hydrocarbons present in the samples were extracted immediately with carbon tetrachloride. Final determination of hydrocarbons was made by infrared spectrophotometry. This method is currently accepted in the Soviet Union in an arbitration capacity for determination of petroleum products dissolved and emulsified in sea water. Infrared spectrophotometry is used to determine hydrocarbons containing methyl and methylene groups, but they are not identified as to origin.

Physical oceanography of CTD stations in the Persian Gulf

The following tables show physical and chemical data observed by the "Meteor" in the Persian Gulf and the Strait of Hormus. This study was performed in accordance with the general programme of the International Indian Ocean Expedition (IIOE) during the oeriod from March 25th until April 16th, 1965. The water temperature was measured by reversing thermometers; in most cases two instruments were used simultaneously. The absolute mean temperature difference of this double measurement is 0.0153 °C. The salinity was determined both by salinometer and by titration. In this case of the density, the specific volume anomaly, the dynamic depth anomaly, the sound velocity and the interpolation for standard depths were carried out by the National Oceanographic Data Center (NODC), Washington.