(Table 2) Characteristics of a turbidite flow inferred from physiography and morphology of the margin and the sediment waves

This paper presents the morpho-sedimentary characterization and interpretations of the assemblage of landforms of the East Greenland continental slope and Greenland Basin, based on swath bathymetry and sub-bottom TOPAS profiles. The interpretation of landforms reveals the glacial influence on recent sedimentary processes shaping the seafloor, including mass-wasting and turbidite flows. The timing of landform development points to a predominantly glacial origin of the sediment supplied to the continental margin, supporting the scenario of a Greenland Ice Sheet extending across the continental shelf, or even to the shelf-edge, during the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM). Major sedimentary processes along the central section of the eastern Greenland Continental Slope, the Norske margin, suggest a relatively high glacial sediment input during the LGM that, probably triggered by tectonic activity, led to the development of scarps and channels on the slope and debris flows on the continental rise. The more southerly Kejser Franz Josef margin has small-scale mass-wasting deposits and an extensive turbidite system that developed in relation to both channelised and unconfined turbidity flows which transferred sediments into the deep Greenland Basin.

Observations on the propagation of internal tidal waves on the continental slope off Sierra Leone

During R/V Meteor-cruise no. 30 4 moorings with 17 current meters were placed on the continental slope of Sierra Leone at depths between 81 and 1058 meters. The observation period started on March 8, 1973, 16.55 hours GMT and lasted 19 days for moorings M30_068MOOR, M30_069MOOR, M30_070MOOR on the slope and 9 days for M30_067MOOR on the shelf. One current meter recorded at location M30_067MOOR for 22 days. Hydrographic data were collected at 32 stations by means of the "Kieler Multi-Meeressonde". Harmonic analysis is applied to the first 15 days of the time series to determine the M2 and S2 tides. By vertically averaging of the Fourier coefficients the field of motion is separated into its barotropic and its baroclinic component. The expected error generated by white Gaussian noise is estimated. To estimate the influence of the particular vertical distribution of the current meters, the barotropic M2 tide is calculated by ommitting and interchanging time series of different moorings. It is shown that only the data of moorings M30_069MOOR, M30_070MOOR and M30_067MOOR can be used. The results for the barotropic M2 tide agree well with the previous publications of other authors. On the slope at a depth of 1000 m there is a free barotropic wave under the influence of the Coriolis-force propagating along the slope with an amplitude of 3.4 cm S**-1. On the shelf, the maximum current is substantially greater (5.8 cm s**-1) and the direction of propagation is perpendicular to the slope. As for the continental slope a separation into different baroclinic modes using vertical eigenmodes is not reasonable, an interpretation of the total baroclinic wave field is tried by means of the method of characteristis. Assuming the continental slope to generate several linear waves, which superpose, baroclinic tidal ellipses are calculated. The scattering of the direction of the major axes M30_069MOOR is in contrast to M30_070MOOR, where they are bundled within an angle of 60°. This is presumably caused by the different character of the bottom topography in the vicinity of the two moorings. A detailed discussion of M30_069MOOR is renounced since the accuracy of the bathymetric chart is not sufficient to prove any relation between waves and topography. The bundeling of the major axes at M30_070MOOR can be explained by the longslope changes of the slope, which cause an energy transfer from the longslope barotropic component to the downslope baroclinic component. The maximum amplitude is found at a depth of 245 m where it is expected from the characteristics originating at the shelf edge. Because of the dominating barotropic tide high coherence is found between most of the current meters. To show the influence of the baroclinic tidal waves, the effect of the mean current is considered. There are two periods nearly opposite longshore mean current. For 128 hours during each of these periods, starting on March 11, 05.00, and March 21, 08.30, the coherences and energy spectra are calculated. The changes in the slope of the characteristics are found in agreement with the changes of energy and coherence. Because of the short periods of nearly constant mean current, some of the calculated differences of energy and coherence are not statistically significant. For the M2 tide a calculation of the ratios of vertically integrated total baroclinic energy and vertically integrated barotropic kinetic energy is carried out. Taking into account both components (along and perpendicular to the slope) the obtained values are 0.75 and 0.98 at the slope and 0.38 at the shelf. If each component is considered separately, the ratios are 0.39 and 1.16 parallel to the slope and 5.1 and 15.85 for the component perpendicular to it. Taking the energy transfer from the longslope component to the doenslope component into account, a simple model yields an energy-ratio of 2.6. Considering the limited application of the theory to the real conditions, the obtained are in agreement with the values calculated by Sandstroem.

Wave height (regular and irregular waves) reduction in 2m water depth over a 40-m-long salt marsh test section in a large scale laboratory flume

Coastal communities around the world face increasing risk from flooding as a result of rising sea level, increasing storminess, and land subsidence. Salt marshes can act as natural buffer zones, providing protection from waves during storms. However, the effectiveness of marshes in protecting the coastline during extreme events when water levels and waves are highest is poorly understood. Here, we experimentally assess wave dissipation under storm surge conditions in a 300-m-long wave flume that contains a transplanted section of natural salt marsh. We find that the presence of marsh vegetation causes considerable wave attenuation, even when water levels and waves are high. From a comparison with experiments without vegetation, we estimate that up to 60% of observed wave reduction is attributed to vegetation. We also find that although waves progressively flatten and break vegetation stems and thereby reduce dissipation, the marsh substrate remained remarkably stable and resistant to surface erosion under all conditions.The effectiveness of storm wave dissipation and the resilience of tidal marshes even at extreme conditions suggest that salt marsh ecosystems can be a valuable component of coastal protection schemes.

Coral reef development in response to large amplitude internal waves and monsoon impact

The Andaman Sea and other macrotidal semi-enclosed tropical seas feature large amplitude internal waves (LAIW). Although LAIW induce strong fluctuations i.e. of temperature, pH, and nutrients, their influence on reef development is so far unknown. A better-known source of disturbance is the monsoon affecting corals due to turbulent mixing and sedimentation. Because in the Andaman Sea both, LAIW and monsoon, act from the same westerly direction their relative contribution to reef development is difficult to discern. Here, we explore the framework development in a number of offshore island locations subjected to differential LAIW- and SW-monsoon impact to address this open question. Cumulative negative temperature anomalies - a proxy for LAIW impact - explained a higher percentage of the variability in coral reef framework height, than sedimentation rates which resulted mainly from the monsoon. Temperature anomalies and sediment grain size provided the best correlation with framework height suggesting that so far neglected subsurface processes (LAIW) play a significant role in shaping coral reefs.