Spectral analysis of seabed elevation from the Danish Wadden Sea

Bedforms both reflect and influence shallow water hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics. A correct characterization of their spatial distribution and dimensions is required for the understanding, assessment and prediction of numerous coastal processes. A method to parameterize geometrical characteristics using two-dimensional (2D) spectral analysis is presented and tested on seabed elevation data from the Knudedyb tidal inlet in the Danish Wadden Sea, where large compound bedforms are found. The bathymetric data were divided into 20x20 m areas on which a 2D spectral analysis was applied. The most energetic peak of the 2D spectrum was found and its energy, frequency and direction were calculated. A power-law was fitted to the average of slices taken through the 2D spectrum; its slope and y-intercept were calculated. Using these results the test area was morphologically classified into 4 distinct morphological regions. The most energetic peak and the slope and intercept of the power-law showed high values above the crest of the primary bedforms and scour holes, low values in areas without bedforms, and intermediate values in areas with secondary bedforms. The secondary bedform dimensions and orientations were calculated. An area of 700x700 m was used to determine the characteristics of the primary bedforms. However, they were less distinctively characterized compared to the secondary bedforms due to relatively large variations in their orientations and wavelengths. The method is thus appropriate for morphological classification of the seabed and for bedform characterization, being most efficient in areas characterized by bedforms with regular dimensions and directions.

Short-term temporal and spatial variations in physical, optical and biogeochemical parameters in June of 2013 in Alfacs Bay (NW Mediterranean)

With the aim of analyzing the complex physical and biogeochemical interactions at high temporal and spatial resolution in the complex estuarine waters of Alfacs Bay, a beam attenuation-based approach was used as optical proxy of different biogeochemical variables. Thus, the dataset contains the attenuation proxies as well as laboratory results from the analysis of water samples, which were used to validate our approach. In addition, the major physical forcing in the Bay was also measured.

Grain entrainment and transport rates of magnetic minerals of coastal sediment samples from the Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

Heavy (magnetic & non-magnetic) minerals are found concentrated by natural processes in many fluvial, estuarine, coastal and shelf environments with a potential to form economic placer deposits. Understanding the processes of heavy mineral transport and enrichment is prerequisite to interpret sediment magnetic properties in terms of hydro- and sediment dynamics. In this study, we combine rock magnetic and sedimentological laboratory measurements with numerical 3D discrete element models to investigate differential grain entrainment and transport rates of magnetic minerals in a range of coastal environments (riverbed, mouth, estuary, beach and near-shore). We analyzed grain-size distributions of representative bulk samples and their magnetic mineral fractions to relate grain-size modes to respective transport modes (traction, saltation, suspension). Rock magnetic measurements showed that distribution shapes, population sizes and grain-size offsets of bulk and magnetic mineral fractions hold information on the transport conditions and enrichment process in each depositional environment. A downstream decrease in magnetite grain size and an increase in magnetite concentration was observed from riverine source to marine sink environments. Lower flow velocities permit differential settling of light and heavy mineral grains creating heavy mineral enriched zones in estuary settings, while lighter minerals are washed out further into the sea. Numerical model results showed that higher heavy mineral concentrations in the bed increased the erosion rate and enhancing heavy mineral enrichment. In beach environments where sediments contained light and heavy mineral grains of equivalent grain sizes, the bed was found to be more stable with negligible amount of erosion compared to other bed compositions. Heavy mineral transport rates calculated for four different bed compositions showed that increasing heavy mineral content in the bed decreased the transport rate. There is always a lag in transport between light and heavy minerals which increases with higher heavy mineral concentration in all tested bed compositions. The results of laboratory experiments were validated by numerical models and showed good agreement. We demonstrate that the presented approach bears the potential to investigate heavy mineral enrichment processes in a wide range of sedimentary settings.

Sr-Nd isotopic analyses of sand-sized sediment from the San Francisco Bay coastal system

A diverse suite of geochemical tracers, including 87Sr/86Sr and 143Nd/144Nd isotope ratios, the rare earth elements (REEs), and select trace elements were used to determine sand-sized sediment provenance and transport pathways within the San Francisco Bay coastal system. This study complements a large interdisciplinary effort (Barnard et al., 2012) that seeks to better understand recent geomorphic change in a highly urbanized and dynamic estuarine-coastal setting. Sand-sized sediment provenance in this geologically complex system is important to estuarine resource managers and was assessed by examining the geographic distribution of this suite of geochemical tracers from the primary sources (fluvial and rock) throughout the bay, adjacent coast, and beaches. Due to their intrinsic geochemical nature, 143Nd/144Nd isotopic ratios provide the most resolved picture of where sediment in this system is likely sourced and how it moves through this estuarine system into the Pacific Ocean. For example, Nd isotopes confirm that the predominant source of sand-sized sediment to Suisun Bay, San Pablo Bay, and Central Bay is the Sierra Nevada Batholith via the Sacramento River, with lesser contributions from the Napa and San Joaquin Rivers. Isotopic ratios also reveal hot-spots of local sediment accumulation, such as the basalt and chert deposits around the Golden Gate Bridge and the high magnetite deposits of Ocean Beach. Sand-sized sediment that exits San Francisco Bay accumulates on the ebb-tidal delta and is in part conveyed southward by long-shore currents. Broadly, the geochemical tracers reveal a complex story of multiple sediment sources, dynamic intra-bay sediment mixing and reworking, and eventual dilution and transport by energetic marine processes. Combined geochemical results provide information on sediment movement into and through San Francisco Bay and further our understanding of how sustained anthropogenic activities which limit sediment inputs to the system (e.g., dike and dam construction) as well as those which directly remove sediments from within the Bay, such as aggregate mining and dredging, can have long-lasting effects.