Flow separation and roughness lengths over large bedforms in a tidal environment

This study characterises the shape of the flow separation zone (FSZ) and wake region over large asymmetric bedforms under tidal flow conditions. High resolution bathymetry, flow velocity and turbulence data were measured along two parallel transects in a tidal channel covered with bedforms. The field data are used to verify the applicability of a numerical model for a systematic study using the Delft3D modelling system and test the model sensitivity to roughness length. Three experiments are then conducted to investigate how the FSZ size and wake extent vary depending on tidally-varying flow conditions, water levels and bathymetry. During the ebb, a large FSZ occurs over the steep lee side of each bedform. During the flood, no flow separation develops over the bedforms having a flat crest; however, a small FSZ is observed over the steepest part of the crest of some bedforms, where the slope is locally up to 15°. Over a given bedform morphology and constant water levels, no FSZ occurs for velocity magnitudes smaller than 0.1 m s**-1; as the flow accelerates, the FSZ reaches a stable size for velocity magnitudes greater than 0.4 m s**-1. The shape of the FSZ is not influenced by changes in water levels. On the other hand, variations in bed morphology, as recorded from the high-resolution bathymetry collected during the tidal cycle, influence the size and position of the FSZ: a FSZ develops only when the maximum lee side slope over a horizontal distance of 5 m is greater than 10°. The height and length of the wake region are related to the length of the FSZ. The total roughness along the transect lines is an order of magnitude larger during the ebb than during the flood due to flow direction in relation to bedform asymmetry: during the ebb, roughness is created by the large bedforms because a FSZ and wake develops over the steep lee side. The results add to the understanding of hydrodynamics of natural bedforms in a tidal environment and may be used to better parameterise small-scale processes in large-scale studies.

Observations on the propagation of internal tidal waves on the continental slope off Sierra Leone

During R/V Meteor-cruise no. 30 4 moorings with 17 current meters were placed on the continental slope of Sierra Leone at depths between 81 and 1058 meters. The observation period started on March 8, 1973, 16.55 hours GMT and lasted 19 days for moorings M30_068MOOR, M30_069MOOR, M30_070MOOR on the slope and 9 days for M30_067MOOR on the shelf. One current meter recorded at location M30_067MOOR for 22 days. Hydrographic data were collected at 32 stations by means of the "Kieler Multi-Meeressonde". Harmonic analysis is applied to the first 15 days of the time series to determine the M2 and S2 tides. By vertically averaging of the Fourier coefficients the field of motion is separated into its barotropic and its baroclinic component. The expected error generated by white Gaussian noise is estimated. To estimate the influence of the particular vertical distribution of the current meters, the barotropic M2 tide is calculated by ommitting and interchanging time series of different moorings. It is shown that only the data of moorings M30_069MOOR, M30_070MOOR and M30_067MOOR can be used. The results for the barotropic M2 tide agree well with the previous publications of other authors. On the slope at a depth of 1000 m there is a free barotropic wave under the influence of the Coriolis-force propagating along the slope with an amplitude of 3.4 cm S**-1. On the shelf, the maximum current is substantially greater (5.8 cm s**-1) and the direction of propagation is perpendicular to the slope. As for the continental slope a separation into different baroclinic modes using vertical eigenmodes is not reasonable, an interpretation of the total baroclinic wave field is tried by means of the method of characteristis. Assuming the continental slope to generate several linear waves, which superpose, baroclinic tidal ellipses are calculated. The scattering of the direction of the major axes M30_069MOOR is in contrast to M30_070MOOR, where they are bundled within an angle of 60°. This is presumably caused by the different character of the bottom topography in the vicinity of the two moorings. A detailed discussion of M30_069MOOR is renounced since the accuracy of the bathymetric chart is not sufficient to prove any relation between waves and topography. The bundeling of the major axes at M30_070MOOR can be explained by the longslope changes of the slope, which cause an energy transfer from the longslope barotropic component to the downslope baroclinic component. The maximum amplitude is found at a depth of 245 m where it is expected from the characteristics originating at the shelf edge. Because of the dominating barotropic tide high coherence is found between most of the current meters. To show the influence of the baroclinic tidal waves, the effect of the mean current is considered. There are two periods nearly opposite longshore mean current. For 128 hours during each of these periods, starting on March 11, 05.00, and March 21, 08.30, the coherences and energy spectra are calculated. The changes in the slope of the characteristics are found in agreement with the changes of energy and coherence. Because of the short periods of nearly constant mean current, some of the calculated differences of energy and coherence are not statistically significant. For the M2 tide a calculation of the ratios of vertically integrated total baroclinic energy and vertically integrated barotropic kinetic energy is carried out. Taking into account both components (along and perpendicular to the slope) the obtained values are 0.75 and 0.98 at the slope and 0.38 at the shelf. If each component is considered separately, the ratios are 0.39 and 1.16 parallel to the slope and 5.1 and 15.85 for the component perpendicular to it. Taking the energy transfer from the longslope component to the doenslope component into account, a simple model yields an energy-ratio of 2.6. Considering the limited application of the theory to the real conditions, the obtained are in agreement with the values calculated by Sandstroem.

A comprehensive analysis of tidal notches in the Mediterranean Sea

Recent works (Evelpidou et al., 2012) suggest that the modern tidal notch is disappearing worldwide due sea level rise over the last century. In order to assess this hypothesis, we measured modern tidal notches in several of sites along the Mediterranean coasts. We report observations on tidal notches cut along carbonate coasts from 73 sites from Italy, France, Croatia, Montenegro, Greece, Malta and Spain, plus additional observations carried outside the Mediterranean. At each site, we measured notch width and depth, and we described the characteristics of the biological rim at the base of the notch. We correlated these parameters with wave energy, tide gauge datasets and rock lithology. Our results suggest that, considering 'the development of tidal notches the consequence of midlittoral bioerosion' (as done in Evelpidou et al., 2012) is a simplification that can lead to misleading results, such as stating that notches are disappearing. Important roles in notch formation can be also played by wave action, rate of karst dissolution, salt weathering and wetting and drying cycles. Of course notch formation can be augmented and favoured also by bioerosion which can, in particular cases, be the main process of notch formation and development. Our dataset shows that notches are carved by an ensemble rather than by a single process, both today and in the past, and that it is difficult, if not impossible, to disentangle them and establish which one is prevailing. We therefore show that tidal notches are still forming, challenging the hypothesis that sea level rise has drowned them.

Geologic-hydrologic setting and surface sedimentology in the Persian Gulf

1. Morphology and sedimentation The deepest parts of the Persian Gulf lie off the Iranian coast. Several swells separate the Persian Gulf into the Western Basin, the Central Basin and the Strait of Hormuz, which leads without noticeable morphological interruption onto the Biaban Shelf; the latter gradually drops off towards the continental slope, which itself has a strongly subdivided morphology. The sediment distribution in the Western Basin runs parallel to the basin's axis to a depth of 50 -60 m. This is caused by the shallow and uniform slope of the Iranian coast into the Western Basin, by clear exposure of the area to the Shamal-Winds and by tidal currents parallel to the basin's axis. Most other parameters also show isolines parallel to the coast line. Data from the sediment analyses show a net transport which extends out along the Central Swell: coarse fraction > 63 µ, total carbonate content, carbonate in fine fractions < 2 µ, 2-6 µ and 20-63 µ, calcite-aragonite ratios in the fine fractions 2-6 µ and 20-63 µ and quartz-dolomite ratios in fine fraction 2-6 µ. At least the uppermost 10-40 m of this sediment is late Holocene. This implies sedimentation rates of several meters per 1000 years. The slope from the Iranian coast into the Central Basin (max. depth 100 m) is generally steeper, with interspersed islands and flats. Both facts tend to disturb a sediment dustribition parallel to the basin's axis over extensive areas and may preclude any such trend from being detected by the methods and sample net used. The spatial distribution of the coarse fraction, however, seems to indicate sediment transport at greater water depths perpendicular to the basin's long axis and along the steepest gradients well into the Central Basin. The flats of the Central Basin have a sediment cover distinctly different from those of the deeper basin areas. Characteristic parameters are the extremely high percentages of coarse grained sediments, total content of carbonate CO2 over 40, low total organic carbon content, (however values are high if calculated on the basis of the < 63 µ fraction), low total N-content, and low C/N ratios. These characteristics probably result from the absence of any terrigenous material being brought in as well as from exposure to wave action. Finest terrigenous material is deposited in the innermost protected part of the Hormuz Bay. In the deep channel cut into the Biaban Shelf which carries the Persian Gulf out-flow water to the Indian Ocean, no fine grained sediment is deposited as shown by grain size data. 2. Geographic settings and sedimentation Flat lands border the Arabian coast of the Persian Gulf except for the Oman region. The high and steep Zagros Mountains form the Iranian coastline. Flat topography in combination with generally low precipitation precludes fluviatile sediment being added from the South. Inorganic and biogenic carbonates accumulating under low sedimentation rates are dominant on the shallow Arabic Shelf and the slopes into the Western and Central Basins. The fluviatile sediment brought in from the Iranian side, however decisively determine the composition of the Holocene sediment cover in the Persian Gulf and on the Biaban Shelf. Holocene sediments extend 20-30 km seaward into the Western Basin and about 25 km on to the Biaban Shelf. As mentioned before, sedimentation rates are of several meters/1000 years. The rocks exposed in the hinterland influence the sediments. According to our data the Redbeds of the Zagros Mountains determine the colour of the very fine grained sediments near the Iranian Coast of the Persian Gulf. To the West of Hormuz, addition of carbonate minerals is particularly high. Dolomite and protodolomite, deposited only in this area, as well as palygorskite, have proven to be excellent trace minerals. To the East of Hormuz, the supply of terrigenous carbonates is considerably lower. Clay minerals appear to bring in inorganically bound nitrogen thus lowering the C/N ratio in these sediments especially off river mouths. 3. Climate and sedimentation The Persian Gulf is located in a climatically arid region. This directly affects sedimentation through increased wind action and the infrequent but heavy rainfalls which cause flash floods. Such flash floods could be responsible for transporting sedheats into the Central Basin in a direction perpendicular to the Gulf's axis. Eolian influx is difficult to asses from our data; however, it probably is of minor importance from the Iranian side and may add, at the most, a few centimeters of fine sediment per 1000 years. 4. Hydrology and sedimentation High water temperatures favor inorganic carbonate precipitation in southern margin of the Gulf, and probably on the flats, as well as biogenic carbonate production in general. High evaporation plus low water inflow through rivers and precipitation cause a circulation pattern that is typical for epicontinental seas within the arid climate region. Surface water flows in from the adjoining ocean, in this case the Indian Ocean and sinks to the bottom of the Persian Gulf mainly in the northern part of the Western Basin, on the "Mesopotamischer Flachschelf" ard probably in the area of the "Arabischer Flachschelf". This sinking water continually rejuvenates the bottom out-flow water. The inflowing surface water from the Indian Ocean brings organic matter into the Persian Gulf, additional nutrients are added by the "fresh" upwelling waters of the Gulf of Oman. Both nutrients and organic matter diminish very rapidly as the water moves into the Persian Gulf. This depletion of nutrients and organic matter is the reasonfor generally low organic carbon contents of the Persian Gulf sediments. The Central Swell represents a distinct boundary, to the west of which the organic carbon content are lower than to the east when sediment samples of similar grain size distribution are compared. The outflow carries well oxygenated water over the bottom of the Persian Gulf and the resulting oxidation further decreases the content of organic matter. In the Masandam-Channel and in the Biaban-Shelf channel, the outflowing water prevents deposition of fine material and transports sediment particles well beyond the shelf margin. The outflowing water remains at a depth of 200-300 m depending on its density and releases ist suspending sediment load to the ocean floor, irrespectative of the bottom morphology. This is reflected in several parameters in which the sediments from beneath the outflow differ from nearby sediments not affected by the outflowing water. High carbonate content of total samples and of the individual size fraction as well as high aragonite and dolomite contents of individual size fractions characterize the sediment beneath the outflowing water. The tidal currents, which avt more or less parallel to the Gulf's axis, favor mixing of the water masses, they rework sediments at velocities reported here. This fact enlarges to a certain degree the extent of our interfaces which are based on only a few sample points (Persian Gulf and Biaban Shelf one sample per 620 km**2, continental slope one sample per 1000 km**2). The water on the continental slope shows and oxygen minimum at 200-1200 m which favors preservation of organically-bound carbon in the sediment. The low pH-values may even permit dissolution of carbonate minerals.