Men in Black: Fashioning Masculinity in Nineteenth-Century Spain

Clothes offer us a commentary on the individual who wears them, and one of those comments deals with gender. Clothing is fundamental to gender, turning male and female bodies into men and women. In the nineteenth century the preoccupation with appear- ances was greater than in previous periods thanks to changes in the social system and a reformulation of gender roles, as well as the popularity of physiognomic theory. Given this increased sensitivity to the gaze, it is curious that men would uniformly adopt the black suit as their garment of choice. This revolution in male fashion was born from contradic- tory motives. On the one hand, the man in black attempted to avoid the gaze so as not to be anyone’s object of desire. An exception to this rule was the elegante, for whom fashion was a way of life. The elegante became a frequent target of the satirical press, which ques- tioned his masculinity. On the other hand, the black suit came simbolize the power of the ascendant middle class because it recalled Spain’s most important monarchs, such as Carlos V and Felipe II. The black suit thus became a polysemic signifier, and the man who wore it attempted, impossibly, to be both the subject and object of the gaze.

The Effect Of Social Support On Health As Moderated By Sex-Role Orientation

Previous research has established a significant association between social support and health; high levels of social support are consistently shown to both directly and indirectly improve health (Cohen, 1998, House et al. 1988, Rook, 2001, Schwarzer & Leppin 1989). Additional research has investigated the role of sex and gender differences in social support, health and the interaction between these variables (Barbee et al. 1993, Burda, Vaux & Schill 1984, Cleary, 1987, Rook, 2001, Shumaker & Hill, 1991). The present study aims to further examine the influence of sex-role orientation on social support and health. Forty-nine female participants completed a three-part survey assessing their sex-role orientation, perceived social support, current stress levels and physical health. Results revealed that both masculinity and femininity relate to social support network size and health outcomes. Masculinity and androgyny were significantly negatively associated with health problems, whereas undifferentiated individuals had higher rates of physical illness. These findings demonstrate the important role of gendered traits in social support and ultimately, physical health.