Men in Black: Fashioning Masculinity in Nineteenth-Century Spain

Clothes offer us a commentary on the individual who wears them, and one of those comments deals with gender. Clothing is fundamental to gender, turning male and female bodies into men and women. In the nineteenth century the preoccupation with appear- ances was greater than in previous periods thanks to changes in the social system and a reformulation of gender roles, as well as the popularity of physiognomic theory. Given this increased sensitivity to the gaze, it is curious that men would uniformly adopt the black suit as their garment of choice. This revolution in male fashion was born from contradic- tory motives. On the one hand, the man in black attempted to avoid the gaze so as not to be anyone’s object of desire. An exception to this rule was the elegante, for whom fashion was a way of life. The elegante became a frequent target of the satirical press, which ques- tioned his masculinity. On the other hand, the black suit came simbolize the power of the ascendant middle class because it recalled Spain’s most important monarchs, such as Carlos V and Felipe II. The black suit thus became a polysemic signifier, and the man who wore it attempted, impossibly, to be both the subject and object of the gaze.

OPTIMIZING A SHORT-END ELECTROPHORETICALLY MEDIATED MICRO-ANALYSIS (EMMA) ASSAY FOR CREATININE

In this work electrophoretically mediated micro-analysis (EMMA) is used in conjunction with short end injection to improve the in-capillary Jaffé assay for creatinine. Key advances over prior work include (i) using simulation to ensure intimate overlap of reagent plugs, (ii) using OH- to drive the reaction, (iii) using short-end injection to minimize analysis time and in-line product degradation. The potential-driven overlapping time with the EMMA approach, as well as the borate buffer background electrolyte (BGE) concentration and pH are optimized with the short end approach. The best conditions for short-end analyses would not have been predicted by the prior long end work, owing to a complex interplay of separation time and product degradation rates. Raw peak areas and flow-adjusted peak areas for the Jaffé reaction product (at 505 nm) are used to assess the sensitivity of the short-end EMMA approach. Optimal overlap conditions depend heavily on local conductivity differences within the reagent zone(s), as these differences cause dramatic voltage field differences, which effect reagent overlap dynamics. Simul 5.0, a dynamic simulation program for capillary electrophoresis (CE) systems, is used to understand the ionic boundaries and profiles that give rise to the experimentally obtained data for EMMA analysis. Overall, fast migration of hydroxide ions from the picrate zone makes difficult reagent overlap. In addition, the challenges associated with the simultaneous overlapping of three reagent zones are considered, and experimental results validate the predictions made by the simulation. With one set of “optimized” conditions including OH- (253 mM) as the third reagent zone the response was linear with creatinine concentration (R2 = 0.998) and reproducible over the clinically relevant range (0.08 to 0.1 mM) of standard creatinine concentrations. An LOD (S/N = 3) of 0.02 mM and LOQ (S/N=10) of 0.08 mM were determined. A significant improvement (43%) in assay sensitivity was obtained compared to prior work that considered only two reagents in the overlap.