19 resultados para Cotton textiles

em BORIS: Bern Open Repository and Information System - Berna - Suiça


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Cellulose nanofibers are an attractive component of a broad range of nanomaterials. Their intriguing mechanical properties and low cost, as well as the renewable nature of cellulose make them an appealing alternative to carbon nanotubes (CNTs), which may pose a considerable health risk when inhaled. Little is known, however, concerning the potential toxicity of aerosolized cellulose nanofibers. Using a 3D in vitro triple cell coculture model of the human epithelial airway barrier, it was observed that cellulose nanofibers isolated from cotton (CCN) elicited a significantly (p < 0.05) lower cytotoxicity and (pro-)inflammatory response than multiwalled CNTs (MWCNTs) and crocidolite asbestos fibers (CAFs). Electron tomography analysis also revealed that the intracellular localization of CCNs is different from that of both MWCNTs and CAFs, indicating fundamental differences between each different nanofibre type in their interaction with the human lung cell coculture. Thus, the data shown in the present study highlights that not only the length and stiffness determine the potential detrimental (biological) effects of any nanofiber, but that the material used can significantly affect nanofiber-cell interactions.

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The aim of the study was to examine the economic performance as well as perceived social and environmental impacts of organic cotton in Southern Kyrgyzstan on the basis of a comparative field study (44 certified organic farmers and 33 conventional farmers) carried out in 2009. It also investigated farmers’ motivation for and assessment of conversion to organic farming. Cotton yields on organic farms were found to be 10% lower whereby input costs per unit were 42% lower, which resulted in organic farmers having a 20% higher revenue from cotton. Due to lower input costs and organic and fair trade price premiums the average gross margin from organic cotton was 27%. In addition to direct economic benefits organic farmers enjoy a number of additional benefits such as easy access to credits on favourable terms, provision with uncontaminated cotton cooking oil and seed cake as animal feed, marketing support as well as extension and training, services provided by the newly established organic service provider. A big majority of organic farmers perceives an improvement of soil qualities, improved health conditions, and positively assesses their previous decision to convert to organic farming. The major disadvantage of organic farming is the high manual labour input required. In the study area, where manual farm work is mainly women’s work and male labour migration widespread, women are most affected by this negative aspect of organic farming. Altogether, the results suggest that despite the inconvenience of higher work load the advantages of organic farming outweigh the disadvantages and that conversion to organic farming can improve the livelihoods of small-scale farmers.

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Cotton is a leading agricultural non-food commodity associated with soil degradation, water pollution and pesticide poisoning due to high levels of agrochemical inputs. Organic farming is often promoted as a means of addressing the economic, environmental and health risks of conventional cotton production, and it is slowly gaining ground in the global cotton market. Organic and fair trade cotton are widely seen as opportunities for smallholder farmers to improve their livelihoods thanks to higher returns, lower input costs and fewer risks. Despite an increasing number of studies comparing the profitability of organic and non-organic farming systems in developing and industrialized countries, little has been published on organic farming in Central Asia. The aim of this article is to describe the economic performance and perceived social and environmental impacts of organic cotton in southern Kyrgyzstan, drawing on a comparative field study conducted by the author in 2009. In addition to economic and environmental aspects, the study investigated farmers’ motivations toward and assessment of conversion to organic farming. Cotton yields on organic farms were found to be 10% lower, while input costs per unit were 42% lower; as a result, organic farmers’ cotton revenues were 20% higher. Due to lower input costs as well as organic and fair trade price premiums, the average gross margin from organic cotton was 27% higher. In addition to direct economic benefits, organic farmers enjoy other benefits, such as easy access to credit on favorable terms, provision of uncontaminated cottonseed cooking oil and cottonseed cake as animal feed, and marketing support as well as extension and training services provided by newly established organic service providers. The majority of organic farmers perceive improved soil quality, improved health conditions, and positively assess their initial decision to convert to organic farming. The major disadvantage of organic farming is the high manual labor input required. In the study area, where manual farm work is mainly women's work and male labor migration is widespread, women are most affected by this negative aspect of organic farming. Altogether, the results suggest that, despite the inconvenience of a higher workload, the advantages of organic farming outweigh its disadvantages and that conversion to organic farming improves the livelihoods of small-scale farmers.

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A new examination of the textile fragments found in the Merovingian burials in the basilica of Saint Denis, near Paris, has recently underscored the diversity of fabrics used to make garments in which members of the royal court were buried. Among them, some woolens of fine quality had been dyed with indigotin. The most astonishing fibre found belongs to a mixed textile (not skin) with beaver fibers and wool. Silks contained shellfish purple and in one case kermes? Two dyestuffs associated with royalty and privilege. Along with this was large number of gold threads, probably produced locally and that were used in tablet-woven borders or for embroideries. In addition, several figured silks, of oriental origin, testify to the importance of this "foreign" material and the taste for textiles woven with complex techniques and probably what had originally had beautiful designs. Although none of these designs have been preserved and many colors have been greatly damaged, the technical characteristics of the remnants indicate proveniences as far as Byzantium, Sassanid Persia and the Chinese court. Such precious textiles show the high social status and political power of the Merovingian court, a testament to their ability to access such luxurious and costly textiles through diplomacy and/or trade with other powerful empires. The examination of these rare textiles along with other fine silks and luxury objects from the same period found in France expand our view of the fundamental role of textiles in the political sphere of this early period of European history.

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BACKGROUND Herbivore-damaged plants release a blend of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that differs from undamaged plants. These induced changes are known to attract the natural enemies of the herbivores and therefore are expected to be important determinants of the effectiveness of biological control in agriculture. One way of boosting this phenomenon is the application of plant strengtheners, which has been shown to enhance parasitoid attraction in maize. It is unclear whether this is also the case for other important crops. RESULTS The plant strengtheners BTH [benzo (1,2,3) thiadiazole-7-carbothioic acid S-methyl ester] and laminarin were applied to cotton plants, and the effects on volatile releases and the attraction of three hymenopteran parasitoids, Cotesia marginiventris, Campoletis sonorensis and Microplitis rufiventris, were studied. After treated and untreated plants were induced by real or simulated caterpillar feeding, it was found that BTH treatment increased the attraction of the parasitoids, whereas laminarin had no significant effect. BTH treatment selectively increased the release of two homoterpenes and reduced the emission of indole, the latter of which had been shown to interfere with parasitoid attraction in earlier studies. Canonical variate analyses of the data show that the parasitoid responses were dependent on the quality rather than the quantity of volatile emission in this tritrophic interaction. CONCLUSION Overall, these results strengthen the emerging paradigm that induction of plant defences with chemical elicitors such as BTH could provide a sustainable and environmentally friendly strategy for biological control of pests by enhancing the attractiveness of cultivated plants to natural enemies of insect herbivores. © 2014 Society of Chemical Industry