Advanced Spectroscopy for the Study of Colourants in Cultural Heritage

Colourants are substances used to change the colour of something, and are classified in three typology of colorants: a) pigments, b) dyes, and c) lakes and hybrid pigments. Their identification is very important when studying cultural heritage; it gives information about the artistic technique, can help in dating, and offers insights on the condition of the object. Besides, the study of the degradation phenomena constitutes a framework for the preventive conservation strategies, provides evidence of the object's original appearance, and contributes to the authentication of works of art. However, the complexity of these systems makes it impossible to achieve a complete understanding using a single technique, making necessary a multi-analytical approach. This work focuses on the set-up and application of advanced spectroscopic methods for the study of colourants in cultural heritage. The first chapter presents the identification of modern synthetic organic pigments using Metal Underlayer-ATR (MU-ATR), and the characterization of synthetic dyes extracted from wool fibres using a combination of Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC) coupled to MU-ATR using AgI@Au plates. The second chapter presents the study of the effect of metallic Ag in the photo-oxidation process of orpiment, and the influence of the different factors, such as light and relative humidity. We used a combination of vibrational and synchrotron radiation-based X-ray microspectroscopy techniques: µ-ATR-FT-IR, µ-Raman, SR-µ-XRF, µ-XANES at S K-, Ag L3- and As K-edges and SR-µ-XRD. The third chapter presents the study of metal carboxylates in paintings, specifically on the formation of Zn and Pb carboxylates in three different binders: stand linseed oil, whole egg, and beeswax. We used micro-ATR-FT-IR, macro FT-IR in total reflection (rMA-FT-IR), portable Near-Infrared spectroscopy (NIR), macro X-ray Powder Diffraction (MA-XRPD), XRPD, and Gas Chromatography Mass-Spectrometry (GC-MS). For the data processing, we explored the data from rMA-FT-IR and NIR with the Principal Component Analysis (PCA).

Multimodal (EEG-fMRI) functional connectivity study of levodopa effect in Parkinson’s disease

Aim: To assess if the intake of levodopa in patients with Parkinson’s Disease (PD) changes cerebral connectivity, as revealed by simultaneous recording of hemodynamic (functional MRI, or fMRI) and electric (electroencephalogram, EEG) signals. Particularly, we hypothesize that the strongest changes in FC will involve the motor network, which is the most impaired in PD. Methods: Eight patients with diagnosis of PD “probable”, therapy with levodopa exclusively, normal cognitive and affective status, were included. Exclusion criteria were: moderate-severe rest tremor, levodopa induced dyskinesia, evidence of gray or white matter abnormalities on structural MRI. Scalp EEG (64 channels) were acquired inside the scanner (1.5 Tesla) before and after the intake of levodopa. fMRI functional connectivity was computed from four regions of interest: right and left supplementary motor area (SMA) and right and left precentral gyrus (primary motor cortex). Weighted partial directed coherence (w-PDC) was computed in the inverse space after the removal of EEG gradient and cardioballistic artifacts. Results and discussion: fMRI group analysis shows that the intake of levodopa increases hemodynamic functional connectivity among the SMAs / primary motor cortex and: sensory-motor network itself, attention network and default mode network. w-PDC analysis shows that EEG connectivity among regions of the motor network has the tendency to decrease after the intake the levodopa; furthermore, regions belonging to the DMN have the tendency to increase their outflow toward the rest of the brain. These findings, even if in a small sample of patients, suggest that other resting state physiological functional networks, beyond the motor one, are affected in patients with PD. The behavioral and cognitive tasks corresponding to the affected networks could benefit from the intake of levodopa.

The ontogeny of bipedalism: insights from the study of talar growth

The development of bipedal locomotion was gradual during evolution, and with the increase in discoveries of fossils and, in particular, in discoveries of pedal bones, the attention to this problematic has grown in the last decades. Moreover, the discoveries of juveniles fossil foot bones has led the attention to the evolution and the development of bipedal locomotion. The study of the development of human gait in children may help in shedding light to the development of human locomotion. The human talus plays a pivotal role, linking the leg to the foot and receiving and distributing the weight, while permitting a wide range of foot movements. It is also present at birth, and this makes a perfect bone to study to disentangle how the bone structure acts to cope with the changes in locomotion and body weight. Here, I analyze the external and internal morphology of the human talus from the perinatal period to adolescence, to investigate how the different phases of the acquisition of bipedal gait affect talar morphology, and how the bone copes with the weight gain during growth. Results show that the talar internal and external morphologies change in line with the different activities and loading of the foot. Initially, at around birth, the talus has a very globular and immature external shape, with a very dense trabecular architecture, composed of thin, numerous, and densely packed trabeculae, with a rather isotropic structure. External and internal morphologies change in relation to the different loading patterns which follow during growth, showing a more specialized structure, both in the external and internal morphology, linked to the maturation of bipedal locomotion, until the adult-like pattern is reached, during adolescence.

Victorian letter writing and its representation in literature and painting: the case study of love letters

One of the main features of nineteenth-century fiction is the quasi-total disappearance of the epistolary novel that had had its heydays in the previous century. For this reason, some scholars have declared the “death” of the letter in literature after the transitional romantic period. However, Victorian novels overflow with letters that are embedded, quoted in part or described and commented on by narrators or characters. Even when its content is not revealed to the reader, the letter becomes a signifier loaded with meanings, also and particularly so, when it is burnt, torn, hidden, found or buried. The Postal Reform of 1839-40 caused the number of letters sent every year in Britain to grow from 75 to 410 million in only 14 years, and the mediatic campaign that supported it drew the attention of the population to the material aspects concerning this means of communication. Newspapers became more affordable too and they promoted a taste for sensationalism that often involved the “spectacularization” of private correspondence. Starting from an excursus on the history of the letter aimed at identifying the key aspects of the genre, this work deals with some real love correspondences from people belonging to different classes in the period from 1840 to the 1870s, to then analyse their fictional and pictorial counterparts. The general picture that emerges from this analysis is that of a Victorian society where letters were able to break down the boundaries between high and low forms of cultural expressions and where, more than ever, letters were present in people’s everyday lives as well as in the art and literature they enjoyed.

Sustainable futuring. Learning and unlearning the past A critical discourse study of ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in Vogue Italia (1965-2021)

Recent scholarly works on the relationship between ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ have identified a need for a systemic transition towards fashion media ‘for sustaianbility’. Nevertheless, the academic research on the topic is still limited and rather circumscribed to the analysis of marketing practices, while only recently some more systemic and critical analyses of the symbolic production of sustainability through fashion media have been undertaken. Responding to this need for an in-depth investigation of ‘sustainability’-related media production, my research focuses on the ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in the context of one of the most influential fashion magazines today – Vogue Italia. In order to investigate the ways in which the ‘sustainability’ discourse was formed and has evolved, the study considered the entire Vogue Italia archive from 1965 to 2021. The data collection was carried out in two phases, and the individualised relevant discursive units were then in-depth and critically analysed to allow for a grounded assessment of the media giant’s position. The Discourse-Historical Approach provided a methodological base for the analysis, which took into consideration the various levels of context: the immediate textual and intertextual, but also the broader socio-cultural context of the predominant, over-production oriented and capital-led fashion system. The findings led to a delineation of the evolution of the ‘fashion sustainability’ discourse, unveiling how despite Vogue Italia’s auto-determination as attentive to ‘sustainability’-related topics, the magazine is systemically employing discursive strategies which significantly mitigate the meaning of the ‘sustainable commitment’ and thus the meaning of ‘fashion sustainability’.