3 resultados para cosmetic

em AMS Tesi di Dottorato - Alm@DL - Università di Bologna


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During the last few years, several methods have been proposed in order to study and to evaluate characteristic properties of the human skin by using non-invasive approaches. Mostly, these methods cover aspects related to either dermatology, to analyze skin physiology and to evaluate the effectiveness of medical treatments in skin diseases, or dermocosmetics and cosmetic science to evaluate, for example, the effectiveness of anti-aging treatments. To these purposes a routine approach must be followed. Although very accurate and high resolution measurements can be achieved by using conventional methods, such as optical or mechanical profilometry for example, their use is quite limited primarily to the high cost of the instrumentation required, which in turn is usually cumbersome, highlighting some of the limitations for a routine based analysis. This thesis aims to investigate the feasibility of a noninvasive skin characterization system based on the analysis of capacitive images of the skin surface. The system relies on a CMOS portable capacitive device which gives 50 micron/pixel resolution capacitance map of the skin micro-relief. In order to extract characteristic features of the skin topography, image analysis techniques, such as watershed segmentation and wavelet analysis, have been used to detect the main structures of interest: wrinkles and plateau of the typical micro-relief pattern. In order to validate the method, the features extracted from a dataset of skin capacitive images acquired during dermatological examinations of a healthy group of volunteers have been compared with the age of the subjects involved, showing good correlation with the skin ageing effect. Detailed analysis of the output of the capacitive sensor compared with optical profilometry of silicone replica of the same skin area has revealed potentiality and some limitations of this technology. Also, applications to follow-up studies, as needed to objectively evaluate the effectiveness of treatments in a routine manner, are discussed.

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The olive oil extraction industry is responsible for the production of high quantities of vegetation waters, represented by the constitutive water of the olive fruit and by the water used during the process. This by-product represent an environmental problem in the olive’s cultivation areas because of its high content of organic matter, with high value of BOD5 and COD. For that reason the disposal of the vegetation water is very difficult and needs a previous depollution. The organic matter of vegetation water mainly consists of polysaccharides, sugars, proteins, organic acids, oil and polyphenols. This last compounds are the principal responsible for the pollution problems, due to their antimicrobial activity, but, at the same time they are well known for their antioxidant properties. The most concentrate phenolic compounds in waters and also in virgin olive oils are secoiridoids like oleuropein, demethyloleuropein and ligstroside derivatives (the dialdehydic form of elenolic acid linked to 3,4-DHPEA, or p-HPEA (3,4-DHPEA-EDA or p-HPEA-EDA) and an isomer of the oleuropein aglycon (3,4-DHPEA-EA). The management of the olive oil vegetation water has been extensively investigated and several different valorisation methods have been proposed, such as the direct use as fertilizer or the transformation by physico-chemical or biological treatments. During the last years researchers focused their interest on the recovery of the phenolic fraction from this waste looking for its exploitation as a natural antioxidant source. At the present only few contributes have been aimed to the utilization for a large scale phenols recovery and further investigations are required for the evaluation of feasibility and costs of the proposed processes. The present PhD thesis reports a preliminary description of a new industrial scale process for the recovery of the phenolic fraction from olive oil vegetation water treated with enzymes, by direct membrane filtration (microfiltration/ultrafiltration with a cut-off of 250 KDa, ultrafiltration with a cut-off of 7 KDa/10 KDa and nanofiltration/reverse osmosis), partial purification by the use of a purification system based on SPE analysis and by a liquid-liquid extraction system (LLE) with contemporary reduction of the pollution related problems. The phenolic fractions of all the samples obtained were qualitatively and quantitatively by HPLC analysis. The work efficiency in terms of flows and in terms of phenolic recovery gave good results. The final phenolic recovery is about 60% respect the initial content in the vegetation waters. The final concentrate has shown a high content of phenols that allow to hypothesize a possible use as zootechnic nutritional supplements. The purification of the final concentrate have garanteed an high purity level of the phenolic extract especially in SPE analysis by the use of XAD-16 (73% of the total phenolic content of the concentrate). This purity level could permit a future food industry employment such as food additive, or, thanks to the strong antioxidant activity, it would be also use in pharmaceutical or cosmetic industry. The vegetation water depollutant activity has brought good results, as a matter of fact the final reverse osmosis permeate has a low pollutant rate in terms of COD and BOD5 values (2% of the initial vegetation water), that could determinate a recycling use in the virgin olive oil mechanical extraction system producing a water saving and reducing thus the oil industry disposal costs .

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Nanotechnologies are rapidly expanding because of the opportunities that the new materials offer in many areas such as the manufacturing industry, food production, processing and preservation, and in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. Size distribution of the nanoparticles determines their properties and is a fundamental parameter that needs to be monitored from the small-scale synthesis up to the bulk production and quality control of nanotech products on the market. A consequence of the increasing number of applications of nanomaterial is that the EU regulatory authorities are introducing the obligation for companies that make use of nanomaterials to acquire analytical platforms for the assessment of the size parameters of the nanomaterials. In this work, Asymmetrical Flow Field-Flow Fractionation (AF4) and Hollow Fiber F4 (HF5), hyphenated with Multiangle Light Scattering (MALS) are presented as tools for a deep functional characterization of nanoparticles. In particular, it is demonstrated the applicability of AF4-MALS for the characterization of liposomes in a wide series of mediums. Afterwards the technique is used to explore the functional features of a liposomal drug vector in terms of its biological and physical interaction with blood serum components: a comprehensive approach to understand the behavior of lipid vesicles in terms of drug release and fusion/interaction with other biological species is described, together with weaknesses and strength of the method. Afterwards the size characterization, size stability, and conjugation of azidothymidine drug molecules with a new generation of metastable drug vectors, the Metal Organic Frameworks, is discussed. Lastly, it is shown the applicability of HF5-ICP-MS for the rapid screening of samples of relevant nanorisk: rather than a deep and comprehensive characterization it this time shown a quick and smart methodology that within few steps provides qualitative information on the content of metallic nanoparticles in tattoo ink samples.