Sustainable futuring. Learning and unlearning the past A critical discourse study of ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in Vogue Italia (1965-2021)

Recent scholarly works on the relationship between ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ have identified a need for a systemic transition towards fashion media ‘for sustaianbility’. Nevertheless, the academic research on the topic is still limited and rather circumscribed to the analysis of marketing practices, while only recently some more systemic and critical analyses of the symbolic production of sustainability through fashion media have been undertaken. Responding to this need for an in-depth investigation of ‘sustainability’-related media production, my research focuses on the ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in the context of one of the most influential fashion magazines today – Vogue Italia. In order to investigate the ways in which the ‘sustainability’ discourse was formed and has evolved, the study considered the entire Vogue Italia archive from 1965 to 2021. The data collection was carried out in two phases, and the individualised relevant discursive units were then in-depth and critically analysed to allow for a grounded assessment of the media giant’s position. The Discourse-Historical Approach provided a methodological base for the analysis, which took into consideration the various levels of context: the immediate textual and intertextual, but also the broader socio-cultural context of the predominant, over-production oriented and capital-led fashion system. The findings led to a delineation of the evolution of the ‘fashion sustainability’ discourse, unveiling how despite Vogue Italia’s auto-determination as attentive to ‘sustainability’-related topics, the magazine is systemically employing discursive strategies which significantly mitigate the meaning of the ‘sustainable commitment’ and thus the meaning of ‘fashion sustainability’.

Hydrogen production by enhanced methane reforming with membrane reactors or with CO2 capture materials

Pure hydrogen production from methane is a multi-step process run on a large scale for economic reasons. However, hydrogen can be produced in a one-pot continuous process for small scale applications, namely Low Temperature Steam Reforming. Here, Steam Reforming is carried out in a reactor whose walls are composed by a membrane selective toward hydrogen. Pd is the most used membrane material due to its high permeability and selectivity. However, Pd deteriorates at temperatures higher than 500°C, thus the operative temperature of the reaction has to be lowered. However, the employment of a membrane reactor may allow to give high yields thanks to hydrogen removal, which shifts the reaction toward the products. Moreover, pure hydrogen is produced. This work is concentrated on the synthesis of a catalytic system and the investigation of its performances in different processes, namely oxy-reforming, steam reforming and water gas shift, to find appropriate conditions for hydrogen production in a catalytic membrane reactor. The catalyst supports were CeZr and Zr oxides synthesized by microemulsion, impregnated with different noble metals. Pt, Rh and PtRh based catalysts were tested in the oxy reforming process at 500°C, where Rh on CeZr gave the most interesting results. On the opposite, the best performances in low temperature steam reforming were obtained with Rh impregnated on Zr oxide. This catalyst was selected to perform low temperature steam reforming in a Pd membrane reactor. The hydrogen removal given by the membrane allowed to increase the methane conversion over the equilibrium of a classical fixed bed reactor thanks to an equilibrium shift effect. High hydrogen production and recoveries were also obtained, and no other compound permeated through the membrane which proved to be hydrogen selective.

Gene expression and genome-wide association studies analysis to select heavy pigs for protected designation of origin cured meats production

The high quality of protected designation of origin (PDO) dry-cured pork products depends largely on the chemical and physical parameters of the fresh meat and their variation during the production process of the final product. The discovery of the mechanisms that regulate the variability of these parameters was aided by the reference genome of swine adjuvant to genetic analysis methods. This thesis can contribute to the discovery of genetic mechanisms that regulate the variability of some quality parameters of fresh meat for PDO dry-cured pork production. The first study is of gene expression and showed that between low and high glycolytic potential (GP) samples of Semimembranosus muscle of Italian Large White (ILW) pigs in early postmortem, the differentially expressed genes were all but one over expressed in low GP. These were involved in ATP biosynthesis processes, calcium homeostasis, and lipid metabolism including the potential master regulator gene Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated Receptor Alpha (PPARA). The second is a study in commercial hybrid pigs to evaluate correlations between carcass and fresh ham traits, including carcass and fresh ham lean meat percentages, the former, a potential predictor of the latter. In addition, a genome-wide association study allowed the identification of chromosome-wide associations with phenotypic traits for 19 SNPs, and genome-wide associations for 14 SNPs for ferrochelatase activity. The latter could be a determinant for color variation in nitrite-free dry-cured ham. The third study showed gene expression differences in the Longissimus thoracis muscle of ILW pigs by feeding diets with extruded linseed (source of polyunsaturated fatty acids) and vitamin E and selenium (diet three) or natural (diet four) antioxidants. The diet three promoted a more rapid and massive immune system response possibly determined by improvement in muscle tissue function, while the diet four promoted oxidative stability and increased the anti-inflammatory potential of muscle tissue.