Sustainable futuring. Learning and unlearning the past A critical discourse study of ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in Vogue Italia (1965-2021)

Recent scholarly works on the relationship between ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ have identified a need for a systemic transition towards fashion media ‘for sustaianbility’. Nevertheless, the academic research on the topic is still limited and rather circumscribed to the analysis of marketing practices, while only recently some more systemic and critical analyses of the symbolic production of sustainability through fashion media have been undertaken. Responding to this need for an in-depth investigation of ‘sustainability’-related media production, my research focuses on the ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in the context of one of the most influential fashion magazines today – Vogue Italia. In order to investigate the ways in which the ‘sustainability’ discourse was formed and has evolved, the study considered the entire Vogue Italia archive from 1965 to 2021. The data collection was carried out in two phases, and the individualised relevant discursive units were then in-depth and critically analysed to allow for a grounded assessment of the media giant’s position. The Discourse-Historical Approach provided a methodological base for the analysis, which took into consideration the various levels of context: the immediate textual and intertextual, but also the broader socio-cultural context of the predominant, over-production oriented and capital-led fashion system. The findings led to a delineation of the evolution of the ‘fashion sustainability’ discourse, unveiling how despite Vogue Italia’s auto-determination as attentive to ‘sustainability’-related topics, the magazine is systemically employing discursive strategies which significantly mitigate the meaning of the ‘sustainable commitment’ and thus the meaning of ‘fashion sustainability’.

Intrinsic uncoupling in the ATP synthase of Escherichia coli. Studies on WT and ε-truncated mutants

The H+/ATP ratio in the catalysis of ATP synthase has generally been considered a fixed parameter. However, Melandri and coworkers have recently shown that, in the ATP synthase of the photosynthetic bacterium Rb.capsulatus, this ratio can significantly decrease during ATP hydrolysis when the concentration of either ADP or Pi is maintained at a low level (Turina et al., 2004). The present work has dealt with the ATP synthase of E.coli, looking for evidence of this phenomenon of intrinsic uncoupling in this organism as well. First of all, we have shown that the DCCD-sensitive ATP hydrolysis activity of E.coli internal membranes was strongly inhibited by ADP and Pi, with a half-maximal effect in the submicromolar range for ADP and at 140 µM for Pi. In contrast to this monotonic inhibition, however, the proton pumping activity of the enzyme, as estimated under the same conditions by the fluorescence quenching of the ΔpH-sensitive probe ACMA, showed a clearly biphasic progression, both for Pi, increasing from 0 up to approximately 200 µM, and for ADP, increasing from 0 up to a few µM. We have interpreted these results as indicating that the occupancy of ADP and Pi binding sites shifts the enzyme from a partially uncoupled state to a fully coupled state, and we expect that the ADP- and Pi-modulated intrinsic uncoupling is likely to be a general feature of prokaryotic ATP synthases. Moreover, the biphasicity of the proton pumping data suggested that two Pi binding sites are involved. In order to verify whether the same behaviour could be observed in the isolated enzyme, we have purified the ATP synthase of E.coli and reconstituted it into liposomes. Similarly as observed in the internal membrane preparation, in the isolated and reconstituted enzyme it was possible to observe inhibition of the hydrolytic activity by ADP and Pi (with half-maximal effects at few µM for ADP and at 400 µM for Pi) with a concomitant stimulation of proton pumping. Both the inhibition of ATP hydrolysis and the stimulation of proton pumping as a function of Pi were lost upon ADP removal by an ADP trap. These data have made it possible to conclude that the results obtained in E.coli internal membranes are not due to the artefactual interference of enzymatic activities other than the ones of the ATP synthase. In addition, data obtained with liposomes have allowed a calibration of the ACMA signal by ΔpH transitions of known extent, leading to a quantitative evaluation of the proton pumping data. Finally, we have focused our efforts on searching for a possible structural candidate involved in the phenomenon of intrinsic uncoupling. The ε-subunit of the ATP-synthase is known as an endogenous inhibitor of the hydrolysis activity of the complex and appears to undergo drastic conformational changes between a non-inhibitory form (down-state) and an inhibitory form (up-state)(Rodgers & Wilce, 2000; Gibbons et al., 2000). In addition, the results of Cipriano & Dunn (2006) indicated that the C-terminal domain of this subunit played an important role in the coupling mechanism of the pump, and those of Capaldi et al. (2001), Suzuki et al. (2003) were consistent with the down-state showing a higher hydrolysis-to-synthesis ratio than the up-state. Therefore, we decided to search for modulation of pumping efficiency in a C-terminally truncated ε mutant. A low copy number expression vector has been built, carrying an extra copy of uncC, with the aim of generating an ε-overexpressing E.coli strain in which normal levels of assembly of the mutated ATP-synthase complex would be promoted. We have then compared the ATP hydrolysis and the proton pumping activity in membranes prepared from these ε-overexpressing E.coli strains, which carried either the WT ε subunit or the ε88-stop truncated form. Both strains yielded well energized membranes. Noticeably, they showed a marked difference in the inhibition of hydrolysis by Pi, this effect being largely lost in the truncated mutant. However, pre-incubation of the mutated enzyme with ADP at low nanomolar concentrations (apparent Kd = 0.7nM) restored the hydrolysis inhibition, together with the modulation of intrinsic uncoupling by Pi, indicating that, contrary to wild-type, during membrane preparation the truncated mutant had lost the ADP bound at this high-affinity site, evidently due to a lower affinity (and/or higher release) for ADP of the mutant relative to wild type. Therefore, one of the effects of the C-terminal domain of ε appears to be to modulate the affinity of at least one of the binding sites for ADP. The lack of this domain does not appear so much to influence the modulability of coupling efficiency, but instead the extent of this modulation. At higher preincubated ADP concentrations (apparent Kd = 117nM), the only observed effects were inhibition of both hydrolysis and synthesis, providing a direct proof that two ADP-binding sites on the enzyme are involved in the inhibition of hydrolysis, of which only the one at higher affinity also modulates the coupling efficiency.

Max Abraham's and Tullio Levi-Civita's approach to Einstein Theory of Relativity

This work deals with the theory of Relativity and its diffusion in Italy in the first decades of the XX century. Not many scientists belonging to Italian universities were active in understanding Relativity, but two of them, Max Abraham and Tullio Levi-Civita left a deep mark. Max Abraham engaged a substantial debate against Einstein between 1912 and 1914 about electromagnetic and gravitation aspects of the theories. Levi-Civita played a fundamental role in giving Einstein the correct mathematical instruments for the General Relativity formulation since 1915. This work, which doesn't have the aim of a mere historical chronicle of the events, wants to highlight two particular perspectives: on one hand, the importance of Abraham-Einstein debate in order to clarify the basis of Special Relativity, to observe the rigorous logical structure resulting from a fragmentary reasoning sequence and to understand Einstein's thinking; on the other hand, the originality of Levi-Civita's approach, quite different from the Einstein's one, characterized by the introduction of a method typical of General Relativity even to Special Relativity and the attempt to hide the two Einstein Special Relativity postulates.

Essays on the Axiomatic Theory of Matching

This dissertation mimics the Turkish college admission procedure. It started with the purpose to reduce the inefficiencies in Turkish market. For this purpose, we propose a mechanism under a new market structure; as we prefer to call, semi-centralization. In chapter 1, we give a brief summary of Matching Theory. We present the first examples in Matching history with the most general papers and mechanisms. In chapter 2, we propose our mechanism. In real life application, that is in Turkish university placements, the mechanism reduces the inefficiencies of the current system. The success of the mechanism depends on the preference profile. It is easy to show that under complete information the mechanism implements the full set of stable matchings for a given profile. In chapter 3, we refine our basic mechanism. The modification on the mechanism has a crucial effect on the results. The new mechanism is, as we call, a middle mechanism. In one of the subdomain, this mechanism coincides with the original basic mechanism. But, in the other partition, it gives the same results with Gale and Shapley's algorithm. In chapter 4, we apply our basic mechanism to well known Roommate Problem. Since the roommate problem is in one-sided game patern, firstly we propose an auxiliary function to convert the game semi centralized two-sided game, because our basic mechanism is designed for this framework. We show that this process is succesful in finding a stable matching in the existence of stability. We also show that our mechanism easily and simply tells us if a profile lacks of stability by using purified orderings. Finally, we show a method to find all the stable matching in the existence of multi stability. The method is simply to run the mechanism for all of the top agents in the social preference.

Proof theory of quantified modal logics

We introduce labelled sequent calculi for indexed modal logics. We prove that the structural rules of weakening and contraction are height-preserving admissible, that all rules are invertible, and that cut is admissible. Then we prove that each calculus introduced is sound and complete with respect to the appropriate class of transition frames.