Sustainable futuring. Learning and unlearning the past A critical discourse study of ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in Vogue Italia (1965-2021)

Recent scholarly works on the relationship between ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ have identified a need for a systemic transition towards fashion media ‘for sustaianbility’. Nevertheless, the academic research on the topic is still limited and rather circumscribed to the analysis of marketing practices, while only recently some more systemic and critical analyses of the symbolic production of sustainability through fashion media have been undertaken. Responding to this need for an in-depth investigation of ‘sustainability’-related media production, my research focuses on the ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in the context of one of the most influential fashion magazines today – Vogue Italia. In order to investigate the ways in which the ‘sustainability’ discourse was formed and has evolved, the study considered the entire Vogue Italia archive from 1965 to 2021. The data collection was carried out in two phases, and the individualised relevant discursive units were then in-depth and critically analysed to allow for a grounded assessment of the media giant’s position. The Discourse-Historical Approach provided a methodological base for the analysis, which took into consideration the various levels of context: the immediate textual and intertextual, but also the broader socio-cultural context of the predominant, over-production oriented and capital-led fashion system. The findings led to a delineation of the evolution of the ‘fashion sustainability’ discourse, unveiling how despite Vogue Italia’s auto-determination as attentive to ‘sustainability’-related topics, the magazine is systemically employing discursive strategies which significantly mitigate the meaning of the ‘sustainable commitment’ and thus the meaning of ‘fashion sustainability’.

Dalla Francia all'Italia: impegno politico, inchiesta e transfers culturali alle origini della sociologia del lavoro in Italia

Sociology of work in Italy revived at the end of WWII, after thirty years of forced oblivion. This thesis examines the history of discipline by considering three paths that it followed from its revival up to its institutionalization: the influence of the productivity drive, the role of trade unions and the activity of early young researchers. European Productivity Agency's Italian office Comitato Nazionale per la Produttività propagandised studies on management and on the effects of the industrialization on work and society. Academicians, technicians, psychologists who worked for CNP started rethinking sociology of work, but the managerial use of sociology was unacceptable for both trade unions and young researchers. So “free union” CISL created a School in Florence with an eager attention to social sciences as a medium to become a new model union, while Marxist CGIL, despite its ideological aversion to sociology, finally accepted the social sciences lexicon in order to explain the work changes and to resist against the employers' association offensive. On the other hand, political and social engagement led a first generation of sociologists to study social phenomenon in the recently industrialized Italy by using the sociological analysis. Finally, the thesis investigate the cultural transfers from France, whose industrial sociology (sociologie du travail) was considered as a reference in continental Europe. Nearby the wide importance of French sociologie, financially aided by planning institutions in order to employ it in the industrial reconstruction, other minor experiences such as the social surveys accomplished by worker-priests in the suburbs of industrial cities and the heterodox Marxism of the review “Socialisme ou Barbarie” influenced Italian sociology of work.

Percorsi di gender performance: fotografia tra arte e moda dagli anni Novanta ad oggi

My project explores and compares different forms of gender performance in contemporary art and visual culture according to a perspective centered on photography. Thanks to its attesting power this medium can work as a ready-made. In fact during the 20th century it played a key role in the cultural emancipation of the body which (using a Michel Foucault’s expression) has now become «the zero point of the world». Through performance the body proves to be a living material of expression and communication while photography ensures the recording of any ephemeral event that happens in time and space. My questioning approach considers the gender constructed imagery from the 1990s to the present in order to investigate how photography’s strong aura of realism promotes and allows fantasies of transformation. The contemporary fascination with gender (especially for art and fashion) represents a crucial issue in the global context of postmodernity and is manifested in a variety of visual media, from photography to video and film. Moreover the internet along with its digital transmission of images has deeply affected our world (from culture to everyday life) leading to a postmodern preference for performativity over the more traditional and linear forms of narrativity. As a consequence individual borders get redefined by the skin itself which (dissected through instant vision) turns into a ductile material of mutation and hybridation in the service of identity. My critical assumptions are taken from the most relevant changes occurred in philosophy during the last two decades as a result of the contributions by Jacques Lacan, Michel Foucault, Jacques Derrida, Gilles Deleuze who developed a cross-disciplinary and comparative approach to interpret the crisis of modernity. They have profoundly influenced feminist studies so that the category of gender has been reassessed in contrast with sex (as a biological connotation) and in relation to history, culture, society. The ideal starting point of my research is the year 1990. I chose it as the approximate historical moment when the intersection of race, class and gender were placed at the forefront of international artistic production concerned with identity, diversity and globalization. Such issues had been explored throughout the 1970s but it was only from the mid-1980s onward that they began to be articulated more consistently. Published in 1990, the book "Gender trouble: feminism and the subversion of identity" by Judith Butler marked an important breakthrough by linking gender to performance as well as investigating the intricate connections between theory and practice, embodiment and representation. It inspired subsequent research in a variety of disciplines, art history included. In the same year Teresa de Lauretis launched the definition of queer theory to challenge the academic perspective in gay and lesbian studies. In the meantime the rise of Third Wave Feminism in the US introduced a racially and sexually inclusive vision over the global situation in order to reflect on subjectivity, new technologies and popular culture in connection with gender representation. These conceptual tools have enabled prolific readings of contemporary cultural production whether fine arts or mass media. After discussing the appropriate framework of my project and taking into account the postmodern globalization of the visual, I have turned to photography to map gender representation both in art and in fashion. Therefore I have been creating an archive of images around specific topics. I decided to include fashion photography because in the 1990s this genre moved away from the paradigm of an idealized and classical beauty toward a new vernacular allied with lifestyles, art practices, pop and youth culture; as one might expect the dominant narrative modes in fashion photography are now mainly influenced by cinema and snapshot. These strategies originate story lines and interrupted narratives using models’ performance to convey a particular imagery where identity issues emerge as an essential part of fashion spectacle. Focusing on the intersections of gender identities with socially and culturally produced identities, my approach intends to underline how the fashion world has turned to current trends in art photography and in some case turned to the artists themselves. The growing fluidity of the categories that distinguish art from fashion photography represents a particularly fruitful moment of visual exchange. Varying over time the dialogue between these two fields has always been vital; nowadays it can be studied as a result of this close relationship between contemporary art world and consumer culture. Due to the saturation of postmodern imagery the feedback between art and fashion has become much more immediate and then increasingly significant for anyone who wants to investigate the construction of gender identity through performance. In addition to that a lot of magazines founded in the 1990s bridged the worlds of art and fashion because some of their designers and even editors were art-school graduates encouraging innovation. The inclusion of art within such magazines aimed at validating them as a form of art in themselves supporting a dynamic intersection for music, fashion, design and youth culture: an intersection that also contributed to create and spread different gender stereotypes. This general interest in fashion produced many exhibitions of and about fashion itself at major international venues such as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York. Since then this celebrated success of fashion has been regarded as a typical element of postmodern culture. Owing to that I have also based my analysis on some important exhibitions dealing with gender performance like "Féminin-Masculin" at the Centre Pompidou of Paris (1995), "Rrose is a Rrose is a Rrose. Gender performance in photography" at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum of New York (1997), "Global Feminisms" at the Brooklyn Museum (2007), "Female Trouble" at the Pinakothek der Moderne in München together with the workshops dedicated to "Performance: gender and identity" in June 2005 at the Tate Modern of London. Since 2003 in Italy we have had Gender Bender - an international festival held annually in Bologna - to explore the gender imagery stemming from contemporary culture. In few days this festival offers a series of events ranging from visual arts, performance, cinema, literature to conferences and music. Being aware that any method of research is neither race nor gender neutral I have traced these critical paths to question gender identity in a multicultural perspective taking account of the political implications too. In fact, if visibility may be equated with exposure, we can also read these images as points of intersection of visibility with social power. Since gender assignations rely so heavily on the visual, the postmodern dismantling of gender certainty through performance has wide-ranging effects that need to be analyzed. In some sense this practice can even contest the dominance of visual within postmodernism. My visual map in contemporary art and fashion photography includes artists like Nan Goldin, Cindy Sherman, Hellen van Meene, Rineke Dijkstra, Ed Templeton, Ryan McGinley, Anne Daems, Miwa Yanagi, Tracey Moffat, Catherine Opie, Tomoko Sawada, Vanessa Beecroft, Yasumasa Morimura, Collier Schorr among others.

Verso una sociologia della sostenibilità: il caso delle Città in Transizione. Prospettive e limiti di un percorso bottom-up

Oggetto di indagine del lavoro è il movimento ambientalista e culturale delle Città in Transizione che rappresentano esperimenti di ri-localizzazione delle risorse volte a preparare le comunità (paesi, città, quartieri) ad affrontare la duplice sfida del cambiamento climatico e del picco del petrolio. A partire dal Regno Unito, la rete delle Transition Towns si è in pochi anni estesa significativamente e conta oggi più di mille iniziative. L’indagine di tale movimento ha richiesto in prima battuta di focalizzare l’attenzione sul campo disciplinare della sociologia dell’ambiente. L’attenzione si è concentrata sul percorso di riconoscimento che ha reso la sociologia dell’ambiente una branca autonoma e sul percorso teorico-concettuale che ha caratterizzato la profonda spaccatura paradigmatica proposta da Catton e Dunlap, che hanno introdotto nel dibattito sociologico il Nuovo Paradigma Ecologico, prendendo le distanze dalla tradizionale visione antropocentrica della sociologia classica. Vengono poi presentate due delle più influenti prospettive teoriche della disciplina, quella del Treadmill of Production e la più attuale teoria della modernizzazione ecologica. La visione che viene adottata nel lavoro di tesi è quella proposta da Spaargaren, fautore della teoria della modernizzazione ecologica, secondo il quale la sociologia dell’ambiente può essere collocata in uno spazio intermedio che sta tra le scienze ambientali e la sociologia generale, evidenziando una vocazione interdisciplinare richiamata anche dal dibattito odierno sulla sostenibilità. Ma le evidenze empiriche progressivamente scaturite dallo studio di questo movimento che si autodefinisce culturale ed ambientalista hanno richiesto una cornice teorica più ampia, quella della modernità riflessiva e della società del rischio, in grado di fornire categorie concettuali spendibili nella descrizione dei problemi ambientali e nell’indagine del mutamento socio-culturale e dei suoi attori. I riferimenti empirici dello studio sono tre specifiche realtà locali in Transizione: York in Transition per il Regno Unito, Monteveglio (Bo) e Scandiano (Re) in Transizione per l’Italia.

Il dolore oncologico come malattia nella malattia. Una ricerca nazionale sulle donne con tumore al seno

L’ipotesi di fondo su cui si basa l’intero lavoro è che il dolore oncologico debba essere riconosciuto come “malattia nella malattia”: non si può considerare tale dolore mero “sintomo” del cancro ma esperienza totale che coinvolge l’intera persona. Il dolore oncologico è carico di valenze e significati personali, è associato a rappresentazioni sociali e, come ogni malattia, è disease, illness e sickness. Partendo da questo presupposto, la dissertazione si è posta come obiettivo generale quello di studiare il dolore oncologico tra le donne con tumore al seno, le sue componenti sociali, psicologiche, individuali oltre che fisiche; si è voluto inoltre studiare la specificità del vissuto e dei significati associati all’esperienza dolorosa. Il lavoro è articolato in due parti fondamentali, una teorica ed una empirica. La prima presenta un inquadramento dei principali concetti della sociologia della salute riguardanti il dolore. Per quanto riguarda la parte empirica, si è fatto ricorso ad una ricerca mista, fatta di metodi misti e fondata su un approccio metodologico di natura integrativa che si avvale di tecniche quantitative e qualitative. La parte quantitativa si basa su una parte dei dati della ricerca nazionale ESOPO - Epidemiological Study of Pain in Oncology. Dall’intero campione sono state isolate le sole donne con tumore al seno (n=846). Si è proceduto quindi allo studio di tale campione, alle elaborazioni statistiche con il programma SPSS e all’interpretazione dei risultati. Per quanto riguarda la parte qualitativa, invece, è stata condotta un’analisi delle fonti che si è avvalsa di un approccio netnografico: è stata condotta un’osservazione non intrusiva di 12 blog scritti da donne con tumore al seno, con lo scopo di indagare le narrazioni di malattia, i vissuti personali, i significati di dolore e malattia e le loro ripercussioni sulla vita quotidiana.

"Ho cominciato a perdere le scarpe". La ridefinizione del mondo nelle narrazioni di pazienti affetti da sclerosi multipla

Il lavoro di tesi analizza da un punto di vista metodologico e concettuale le narrazioni di malattia delle persone affette da sclerosi multipla. Lo scopo della ricerca è duplice: da un lato quello di indagare quali siano le trame narrative di coloro che raccontano la diagnosi della loro malattia, e dall’altro di analizzare i vissuti di malattia attraverso le categorie della sociologia della salute e della medicina e dell’antropologia medica.