Sustainable futuring. Learning and unlearning the past A critical discourse study of ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in Vogue Italia (1965-2021)

Recent scholarly works on the relationship between ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ have identified a need for a systemic transition towards fashion media ‘for sustaianbility’. Nevertheless, the academic research on the topic is still limited and rather circumscribed to the analysis of marketing practices, while only recently some more systemic and critical analyses of the symbolic production of sustainability through fashion media have been undertaken. Responding to this need for an in-depth investigation of ‘sustainability’-related media production, my research focuses on the ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in the context of one of the most influential fashion magazines today – Vogue Italia. In order to investigate the ways in which the ‘sustainability’ discourse was formed and has evolved, the study considered the entire Vogue Italia archive from 1965 to 2021. The data collection was carried out in two phases, and the individualised relevant discursive units were then in-depth and critically analysed to allow for a grounded assessment of the media giant’s position. The Discourse-Historical Approach provided a methodological base for the analysis, which took into consideration the various levels of context: the immediate textual and intertextual, but also the broader socio-cultural context of the predominant, over-production oriented and capital-led fashion system. The findings led to a delineation of the evolution of the ‘fashion sustainability’ discourse, unveiling how despite Vogue Italia’s auto-determination as attentive to ‘sustainability’-related topics, the magazine is systemically employing discursive strategies which significantly mitigate the meaning of the ‘sustainable commitment’ and thus the meaning of ‘fashion sustainability’.

Towards the conservation of vulnerable marine large predators: morphometric, molecular and microchemical variation of historical sawfish rostra from Mediterranean collections

Sawfishes (Chondrichthyes, Pristidae) are considered one of the most endangered families among elasmobranchs. Extensive efforts are required worldwide to gather solid information on historical and recent changes in the composition/range of species. In this study, we have implemented an integrative approach to characterize the species diversity and the abundance of historical rostra of sawfishes from museums and private collections of the Mediterranean area. The identification at the species level of 172 dried rostra was carried out through the integration of both traditional and geometric morphometric techniques with molecular tools, allowing the assessment of a robust methodical approach to discriminate species. In addition, we analysed 35 rostral teeth to clarify the past distribution of sawfish species considering the isotopic composition of oxygen and carbon. The morphometric, molecular, and geographical characterization of samples was accompanied by the preliminary evaluation of growth structures and the inspection of the strontium isotope composition in two teeth to unravel movement patterns of individuals across different salinities of water. Results were integrated with currently available data from public repositories and showed that the historical specimens belonged to four nominal species: Pristis zijsron (81), Anoxypristis cuspidata (39), P. pristis (30), and P. pectinata (22). An identification error of 5.41% emerged in the morphological distinction of rostra between juvenile individuals of P. pectinata and P. zijsron. The new approach of carbon and oxygen isotopes, implemented for the first time in these taxa, permitted the identification of the high-probability habitat preferences of these benthopelagic elasmobranchs in about 50% of the analysed specimens. Using this multidisciplinary approach, we successfully assigned the numerous museum rostra with lacking data to a given species and identified their candidate geographical origin, retrieving novel information and data for understanding the species distribution and ecology of past, sometimes locally/regionally extinct sawfish faunas.