Percorsi di gender performance: fotografia tra arte e moda dagli anni Novanta ad oggi

My project explores and compares different forms of gender performance in contemporary art and visual culture according to a perspective centered on photography. Thanks to its attesting power this medium can work as a ready-made. In fact during the 20th century it played a key role in the cultural emancipation of the body which (using a Michel Foucault’s expression) has now become «the zero point of the world». Through performance the body proves to be a living material of expression and communication while photography ensures the recording of any ephemeral event that happens in time and space. My questioning approach considers the gender constructed imagery from the 1990s to the present in order to investigate how photography’s strong aura of realism promotes and allows fantasies of transformation. The contemporary fascination with gender (especially for art and fashion) represents a crucial issue in the global context of postmodernity and is manifested in a variety of visual media, from photography to video and film. Moreover the internet along with its digital transmission of images has deeply affected our world (from culture to everyday life) leading to a postmodern preference for performativity over the more traditional and linear forms of narrativity. As a consequence individual borders get redefined by the skin itself which (dissected through instant vision) turns into a ductile material of mutation and hybridation in the service of identity. My critical assumptions are taken from the most relevant changes occurred in philosophy during the last two decades as a result of the contributions by Jacques Lacan, Michel Foucault, Jacques Derrida, Gilles Deleuze who developed a cross-disciplinary and comparative approach to interpret the crisis of modernity. They have profoundly influenced feminist studies so that the category of gender has been reassessed in contrast with sex (as a biological connotation) and in relation to history, culture, society. The ideal starting point of my research is the year 1990. I chose it as the approximate historical moment when the intersection of race, class and gender were placed at the forefront of international artistic production concerned with identity, diversity and globalization. Such issues had been explored throughout the 1970s but it was only from the mid-1980s onward that they began to be articulated more consistently. Published in 1990, the book "Gender trouble: feminism and the subversion of identity" by Judith Butler marked an important breakthrough by linking gender to performance as well as investigating the intricate connections between theory and practice, embodiment and representation. It inspired subsequent research in a variety of disciplines, art history included. In the same year Teresa de Lauretis launched the definition of queer theory to challenge the academic perspective in gay and lesbian studies. In the meantime the rise of Third Wave Feminism in the US introduced a racially and sexually inclusive vision over the global situation in order to reflect on subjectivity, new technologies and popular culture in connection with gender representation. These conceptual tools have enabled prolific readings of contemporary cultural production whether fine arts or mass media. After discussing the appropriate framework of my project and taking into account the postmodern globalization of the visual, I have turned to photography to map gender representation both in art and in fashion. Therefore I have been creating an archive of images around specific topics. I decided to include fashion photography because in the 1990s this genre moved away from the paradigm of an idealized and classical beauty toward a new vernacular allied with lifestyles, art practices, pop and youth culture; as one might expect the dominant narrative modes in fashion photography are now mainly influenced by cinema and snapshot. These strategies originate story lines and interrupted narratives using models’ performance to convey a particular imagery where identity issues emerge as an essential part of fashion spectacle. Focusing on the intersections of gender identities with socially and culturally produced identities, my approach intends to underline how the fashion world has turned to current trends in art photography and in some case turned to the artists themselves. The growing fluidity of the categories that distinguish art from fashion photography represents a particularly fruitful moment of visual exchange. Varying over time the dialogue between these two fields has always been vital; nowadays it can be studied as a result of this close relationship between contemporary art world and consumer culture. Due to the saturation of postmodern imagery the feedback between art and fashion has become much more immediate and then increasingly significant for anyone who wants to investigate the construction of gender identity through performance. In addition to that a lot of magazines founded in the 1990s bridged the worlds of art and fashion because some of their designers and even editors were art-school graduates encouraging innovation. The inclusion of art within such magazines aimed at validating them as a form of art in themselves supporting a dynamic intersection for music, fashion, design and youth culture: an intersection that also contributed to create and spread different gender stereotypes. This general interest in fashion produced many exhibitions of and about fashion itself at major international venues such as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York. Since then this celebrated success of fashion has been regarded as a typical element of postmodern culture. Owing to that I have also based my analysis on some important exhibitions dealing with gender performance like "Féminin-Masculin" at the Centre Pompidou of Paris (1995), "Rrose is a Rrose is a Rrose. Gender performance in photography" at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum of New York (1997), "Global Feminisms" at the Brooklyn Museum (2007), "Female Trouble" at the Pinakothek der Moderne in München together with the workshops dedicated to "Performance: gender and identity" in June 2005 at the Tate Modern of London. Since 2003 in Italy we have had Gender Bender - an international festival held annually in Bologna - to explore the gender imagery stemming from contemporary culture. In few days this festival offers a series of events ranging from visual arts, performance, cinema, literature to conferences and music. Being aware that any method of research is neither race nor gender neutral I have traced these critical paths to question gender identity in a multicultural perspective taking account of the political implications too. In fact, if visibility may be equated with exposure, we can also read these images as points of intersection of visibility with social power. Since gender assignations rely so heavily on the visual, the postmodern dismantling of gender certainty through performance has wide-ranging effects that need to be analyzed. In some sense this practice can even contest the dominance of visual within postmodernism. My visual map in contemporary art and fashion photography includes artists like Nan Goldin, Cindy Sherman, Hellen van Meene, Rineke Dijkstra, Ed Templeton, Ryan McGinley, Anne Daems, Miwa Yanagi, Tracey Moffat, Catherine Opie, Tomoko Sawada, Vanessa Beecroft, Yasumasa Morimura, Collier Schorr among others.

Le mostre di moda contemporanee come dispositivo testuale

La tesi si pone come obiettivo quello di indagare le mostre di moda contemporanee come macchine testuali. Se consideriamo l’attuale panorama del fashion design come caratterizzato da una complessità costitutiva e da rapidi mutamenti che lo attraversano, e se partiamo dal presupposto che lo spettro di significati che uno stile di abbigliamento e i singoli capi possono assumere è estremamente sfuggente, probabilmente risulta più produttivo interrogarsi su come funziona la moda, su quali sono i suoi meccanismi di produzione di significato. L’analisi delle fashion exhibition si rivela quindi un modo utile per affrontare la questione, dato che gli allestimenti discorsivizzano questi meccanismi e rappresentano delle riflessioni tridimensionali attorno a temi specifici. La mostra di moda mette in scena delle eccezionalità che magnificano aspetti tipici del funzionamento del fashion system, sia se ci rivolgiamo alla moda dal punto di vista della produzione, sia se la consideriamo dal punto di vista della fruizione. L’indagine ha rintracciato nelle mostre curate da Diana Vreeland al Costume Institute del Metropolitan Museum di New York il modello di riferimento per le mostre di moda contemporanee. Vreeland, che dal 1936 al 1971 è stata prima fashion editor e poi editor-in-chief rispettivamente di “Harper’s Bazaar” e di “Vogue USA”, ha segnato un passaggio fondamentale quando nel 1972 ha deciso di accettare il ruolo di Special Consultant al Costume Institute. È ormai opinione diffusa fra critici e studiosi di moda che le mostre da lei organizzate nel corso di più di un decennio abbiano cambiato il modo di mettere in scena i vestiti nei musei. Al lavoro di Vreeland abbiamo poi accostato una recente mostra di moda che ha fatto molto parlare di sé: Spectres. When Fashion Turns Back, a cura di Judith Clark (2004). Nell’indagare i rapporti fra il fashion design contemporaneo e la storia della moda questa mostra ha utilizzato macchine allestitive abitate dai vestiti, per “costruire idee spaziali” e mettere in scena delle connessioni non immediate fra passato e presente. Questa mostra ci è sembrata centrale per evidenziare lo sguardo semiotico del curatore nel suo interrogarsi sul progetto complessivo dell’exhibition design e non semplicemente sullo studio degli abiti in mostra. In questo modo abbiamo delineato due posizioni: una rappresentata da un approccio object-based all’analisi del vestito, che si lega direttamente alla tradizione dei conservatori museali; l’altra rappresentata da quella che ormai si può considerare una disciplina, il fashion curation, che attribuisce molta importanza a tutti gli aspetti che concorrono a formare il progetto allestitivo di una mostra. Un lavoro comparativo fra alcune delle più importanti mostre di moda recentemente organizzate ci ha permesso di individuare elementi ricorrenti e specificità di questi dispositivi testuali. Utilizzando il contributo di Manar Hammad (2006) abbiamo preso in considerazione i diversi livelli di una mostra di moda: gli abiti e il loro rapporto con i manichini; l’exhibition design e lo spazio della mostra; il percorso e la sequenza, sia dal punto di vista della strategia di costruzione e dispiegamento testuale, sia dal punto di vista del fruitore modello. Abbiamo così individuato quattro gruppi di mostre di moda: mostre museali-archivistiche; retrospettive monografiche; mostre legate alla figura di un curatore; forme miste che si posizionano trasversalmente rispetto a questi primi tre modelli. Questa sistematizzazione ha evidenziato che una delle dimensione centrali per le mostre di moda contemporanee è proprio la questione della curatorship, che possiamo leggere in termini di autorialità ed enunciazione. Si sono ulteriormente chiariti anche gli orizzonti valoriali di riferimento: alla dimensione dell’accuratezza storica è associata una mostra che predilige il livello degli oggetti (gli abiti) e un coinvolgimento del visitatore puramente visivo; alla dimensione del piacere visivo possiamo invece associare un modello di mostra che assegna all’exhibition design un ruolo centrale e “chiede” al visitatore di giocare un ruolo pienamente interattivo. L’approccio curatoriale più compiuto ci sembra essere quello che cerca di conciliare queste due dimensioni.

Performance evaluation of low environmental impact asphalt concretes using the mechanistic empirical design method based on laboratory fatigue and permanent deformation models

The "sustainability" concept relates to the prolonging of human economic systems with as little detrimental impact on ecological systems as possible. Construction that exhibits good environmental stewardship and practices that conserve resources in a manner that allow growth and development to be sustained for the long-term without degrading the environment are indispensable in a developed society. Past, current and future advancements in asphalt as an environmentally sustainable paving material are especially important because the quantities of asphalt used annually in Europe as well as in the U.S. are large. The asphalt industry is still developing technological improvements that will reduce the environmental impact without affecting the final mechanical performance. Warm mix asphalt (WMA) is a type of asphalt mix requiring lower production temperatures compared to hot mix asphalt (HMA), while aiming to maintain the desired post construction properties of traditional HMA. Lowering the production temperature reduce the fuel usage and the production of emissions therefore and that improve conditions for workers and supports the sustainable development. Even the crumb-rubber modifier (CRM), with shredded automobile tires and used in the United States since the mid 1980s, has proven to be an environmentally friendly alternative to conventional asphalt pavement. Furthermore, the use of waste tires is not only relevant in an environmental aspect but also for the engineering properties of asphalt [Pennisi E., 1992]. This research project is aimed to demonstrate the dual value of these Asphalt Mixes in regards to the environmental and mechanical performance and to suggest a low environmental impact design procedure. In fact, the use of eco-friendly materials is the first phase towards an eco-compatible design but it cannot be the only step. The eco-compatible approach should be extended also to the design method and material characterization because only with these phases is it possible to exploit the maximum potential properties of the used materials. Appropriate asphalt concrete characterization is essential and vital for realistic performance prediction of asphalt concrete pavements. Volumetric (Mix design) and mechanical (Permanent deformation and Fatigue performance) properties are important factors to consider. Moreover, an advanced and efficient design method is necessary in order to correctly use the material. A design method such as a Mechanistic-Empirical approach, consisting of a structural model capable of predicting the state of stresses and strains within the pavement structure under the different traffic and environmental conditions, was the application of choice. In particular this study focus on the CalME and its Incremental-Recursive (I-R) procedure, based on damage models for fatigue and permanent shear strain related to the surface cracking and to the rutting respectively. It works in increments of time and, using the output from one increment, recursively, as input to the next increment, predicts the pavement conditions in terms of layer moduli, fatigue cracking, rutting and roughness. This software procedure was adopted in order to verify the mechanical properties of the study mixes and the reciprocal relationship between surface layer and pavement structure in terms of fatigue and permanent deformation with defined traffic and environmental conditions. The asphalt mixes studied were used in a pavement structure as surface layer of 60 mm thickness. The performance of the pavement was compared to the performance of the same pavement structure where different kinds of asphalt concrete were used as surface layer. In comparison to a conventional asphalt concrete, three eco-friendly materials, two warm mix asphalt and a rubberized asphalt concrete, were analyzed. The First Two Chapters summarize the necessary steps aimed to satisfy the sustainable pavement design procedure. In Chapter I the problem of asphalt pavement eco-compatible design was introduced. The low environmental impact materials such as the Warm Mix Asphalt and the Rubberized Asphalt Concrete were described in detail. In addition the value of a rational asphalt pavement design method was discussed. Chapter II underlines the importance of a deep laboratory characterization based on appropriate materials selection and performance evaluation. In Chapter III, CalME is introduced trough a specific explanation of the different equipped design approaches and specifically explaining the I-R procedure. In Chapter IV, the experimental program is presented with a explanation of test laboratory devices adopted. The Fatigue and Rutting performances of the study mixes are shown respectively in Chapter V and VI. Through these laboratory test data the CalME I-R models parameters for Master Curve, fatigue damage and permanent shear strain were evaluated. Lastly, in Chapter VII, the results of the asphalt pavement structures simulations with different surface layers were reported. For each pavement structure, the total surface cracking, the total rutting, the fatigue damage and the rutting depth in each bound layer were analyzed.

Controlled reproduction in Anguilla anguilla (L.): advanced studies on broodstock management, spawning techniques and system design for artificial seed production.

The thesis aims to expose the advances achieved in the practices of captive breeding of the European eel (Anguilla anguilla). Aspects investigated concern both approaches livestock (breeding selection, response to hormonal stimulation, reproductive performance, incubation of eggs) and physiological aspects (endocrine plasma profiles of players), as well as engineering aspects. Studies conducted on various populations of wild eel have shown that the main determining factor in the selection of wild females destined to captive breeding must be the Silver Index which may determine the stage of pubertal development. The hormonal induction protocol adopted, with increasing doses of carp pituitary extract, it has proven useful to ovarian development, with a synchronization effect that is positively reflected on egg production. The studies on the effects of photoperiod show how the condition of total darkness can positively influence practices of reproductions in captivity. The effects of photoperiod were also investigated at the physiological level, observing the plasma levels of steroids ( E2, T) and thyroid hormones (T3 and T4) and the expression in the liver of vitellogenin (vtg1 and vtg2) and estradiol membrane receptor (ESR1). From the comparison between spontaneous deposition and insemination techniques through the stripping is inferred as the first ports to a better qualitative and quantitative yield in the production of eggs capable of being fertilized, also the presence of a percentage of oocytes completely transparent can be used to obtain eggs at a good rate of fertility. Finally, the design and implementation of a system for recirculating aquaculture suited to meet the needs of species-specific eel showed how to improve the reproductive results, it would be preferable to adopt low-flow and low density incubation.