Obtenção de extratos da Opuntia fícus-indica L. Mill e suas aplicações em formulações cosméticas: avaliação in vivo do sensorial e da eficácia hidratante

Opuntia fícus - indica (L.) Mill is a cactacea presents in the Caatinga ecosystem and shows in its chemical c omposition flavonoids, galacturonic acid and sugars. Different hydroglicolic (EHG001 and EHG002) and hydroethanolic subsequently lyophilized (EHE001 and EHE002) extracts were developed. The EHE002 had his preliminary phytochemical composition investigated by thin layer chromatography (TLC) and we observed the predominance of flavonoids. Different formulations were prepared as emulsions with Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth - 6 (Rapithix® A60), and Polyacrylamide (and) C13 - 14 I soparaffin (and) Laureth - 7 (Sepigel® 305), and gel with Sodium Polyacrylate (Rapithix® A100). The sensorial evaluation was conducted by check - all - that - apply method. There were no significant differences between the scores assigned to the formulations, howe ver, we noted a preference for those formulated with 1,5% of Rapithix® A100 and 3,0% of Sepigel® 305. These and the formulation with 3% Rapithix® A60 were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. In accelerated stability study, samples were stored at different temperatures for 90 days. Organoleptic characteristics, the pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. T he emulsions formulated with 3,0% of Sepigel® 305 and 1,5% of Rapithix® A60 w ere stable with pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior . The moisturizing clinical efficacy of the emulsions containing 3,0% of Sepigel® 305 containing 1 and 3% of EHG001 was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer®) and transepidermal water lost – TEWL evaluation ( Tewameter®). The results showed t hat the formulation with 3% of EHG001 increased the skin moisturizing against the vehicle and the extractor solvent formulation after five hours. The formulations containing 1 and 3% of EHG001 increased skin barrier effect by reducing transepidermal water loss up to four hours after application.