Modelagem do clima de ondas e seus efeitos sobre as feições morfológicas costeiras no litoral setentrional do Rio Grande do Norte

This thesis presents the results of application of SWAN Simulating WAves Nearshore numerical model, OF third generation, which simulates the propagation and dissipation of energy from sea waves, on the north continental shelf at Rio Grande do Norte, to determine the wave climate, calibrate and validate the model, and assess their potential and limitations for the region of interest. After validation of the wave climate, the results were integrated with information from the submarine relief, and plant morphology of beaches and barrier islands systems. On the second phase, the objective was to analyze the evolution of the wave and its interaction with the shallow seabed, from three transverse profiles orientation from N to S, distributed according to the parallel longitudinal, X = 774000-W, 783000-W e 800000-W. Subsequently, it was were extracted the values of directional waves and winds through all the months between november 2010 to november 2012, to analyze the impact of these forces on the movement area, and then understand the behavior of the morphological variations according to temporal year variability. Based on the results of modeling and its integration with correlated data, and planimetric variations of Soledade and Minhoto beach systems and Ponta do Tubarão and Barra do Fernandes barrier islands systems, it was obtained the following conclusions: SWAN could reproduce and determine the wave climate on the north continental shelf at RN, the results show a similar trend for the measurements of temporal variations of significant height (HS, m) and the mean wave period (Tmed, s); however, the results of parametric statistics were low for the estimates of the maximum values in most of the analyzed periods compared data of PT 1 and PT 2 (measurement points), with alternation of significant wave heights, at times overrated with occasional overlap of swell episodes. By analyzing the spatial distribution of the wave climate and its interaction with the underwater compartmentalization, it was concluded that there is interaction of wave propagation with the seafloor, showing change in significant heights whenever it interacts with the seafloor features (beachrocks, symmetric and asymmetric longitudinal dunes, paleochannel, among others) in the regions of outer, middle and inner shelf. And finally, it is concluded that the study of the stability areas allows identifications of the most unstable regions, confirming that the greatest range of variation indicates greater instability and consequent sensitivity to hydrodynamic processes operating in the coastal region, with positive or negative variation, especially at Ponta do Tubarão and Barra do Fernandes barrier islands systems, where they are more susceptible to waves impacts, as evidenced in retreat of the shoreline

Dinâmica Costeira dos Campos petrolíferos Macau/Serra, litoral setentrional do Estado do Rio Grande do Norte

This thesis describes the general behavior of the northern shore of the State of Rio Grande do Norte relating beach profile morphology with hydrodynamic and sedimentological parameters. The Macau and Serra Oil Field are inserted on this area and are under accelerated coastal erosion. At these oil fields are installed oil wells from PETROBRAS, nowadays located directly in the shoreline, under constant attacks of coastal processes (e.g. waves, tides and currents), which promote an intense morphodynamic variability of this sandy coast. The area was monitored for 24 months in three different stations (P01, P02 and P03). The methodology applied involved current techniques of beach profiles, hydrodynamical processes, remote sensing and geophysics. A synthesis of results obtained through the use of different time scales (monthly, lunar cycle, seasonal, annual) from a coastal dynamics study is presented. The average wind direction corresponded to 77ºAz (NE). The steepness of the berm and of the shoreface, as well as coastal current direction, do not present major changes, with an average of 36º for the steepness of the berm, 15º for the shoreface and 15º for the coastal current direction. This data set allows us to infer that the months of larger coastal erosion were November/2000 and April/2001, because of the largest wave parameter during this time. The months of worse coastal erosion in this area are related with the increasing wavy energy. This in turn, seems to be related to seasonal climatic variations, with the wave energy and tide currents speed increasing during months of minor precipitations (June to January). The months of worse coastal erosion were September and November, when the largest wave parameters and speed currents are measured in the area. Since these months are included on the period of minor precipitations, we related the coastal erosion to seasonal climatic variations. The results obtained during these 24 months of monitoring confirms a situation of accentuated erosion, mainly in Profile 03 (Barra do Corta-Cachorro), where the wave height, period, and coastal current speed are always larger than the values found in Profile 02 (Macau5). Probably these values are more expressive in Profile 03, because it does not present any natural structure of protection against the wave impacts, as the barrier island located at Ponta do Tubarão, or the sand banks in front of Macau5. The transport of the sediments occurs from East to West, and the sand accumulation is more pronounced on Profile 03 intertidal zone, where there are embrionary dunes in dryer months. The tidal currents speed, on the other hand, is more accentuated in the Macau5 area (Profile 02). At Ponta do Tubarão, the tidal currents presented a preferential direction for NE, at times of flood, currents and for NW, at times of ebb current; at Barra do Corta-Cachorro the direction of the currents were predominantly for NW, independent of the tide phase, coinciding with the preferential direction of the longshore current. This currents inversion at Ponta do Tubarão is attributed to the presence of the Ponta do Tubarão island barrier and by the communication channel of the lagoon with the sea. The tide currents are better observed in protected areas, as in the Ponta do Tubarão, when they present inversion in their direction accordingly to the flood and ebb tide. In open areas, as in Barra do Corta-Cachorro, the tide currents are overprinted by the longshore currents. Sediment analysis does not show important modifications in grain size related to seasonality (dry- and rainy seasons). On the foreshore and backshore zones, the sediments vary from fine to medium sand, while in the shoreface they very from fine to very sands. The grains are mostly spheres, varying from sub rounded to sub angled. Quartz is the main component alongside Feldspat and heavy minerals as accessory components. Biogenic content is also present and mainly represented by mollusks fragments. The calculated sediment transport show values around 100 m3/day. The morphodynamic studies indicated that this is a reflexive area from October to April, and intermediate from May to September. The Relative Tide Range-RTR for this area is 4 < RTR < 15, and so classified in the mixed wave-tide group. Having this exposed we can affirm that the more active natural factors in this area are the currents, followed by the tides and the winds. The anthropic factors are exclusively local and punctual (Macau and Serra Oil Field). Taking in account the economic importance of the area, as well as the intensity of coastal processes acting on this shore, it is important a continuity of the monthly environmental monitoring looking for variations on longer-period cycles. These data have been stored on the geo-referenced database of the projects MARPETRO and PETRORISCO (REDE 05), aiming to model the coastal and sea environment, susceptible to oil spills and their derivatives