Desenvolvimento de emulsões contendo óleos vegetais para uso cosmético

The fat acid esters and tocopherolic derivatives are of great economic interest in many industries. The sunflower oil, which had its rich constitution in these composites, is a very interesting raw material source for the job in some sectors as bio-carburants, bio-lubrificants, bio-surfactants, dispersing agents, food industries, medicines and cosmetics. A system emulsified steady from this oil can wide be used in the therapeutical one, therefore it is of easy acceptance for the patient, for being pharmaceutical forms that allow a better medicine administration. The chemical composition characteristics, rich in unsaturad fat acid and tocopherolic derivatives, the sunflower oil, make of the emulsified systems contend this oil a proposal promising for formularizations of pharmaceutical and cosmetic use with antirust and photoprotection. The general objective of this work was to apply the HLB beddings to determine the sunflower oil critical HLB and, from this, to be able to evaluate the ideal mixture of the constituent of this system through the study of the ternary diagrams for the determination of the ratio of constituent that will generate the emulsion most steady

Desenvolvimento de emulsões o/a contendo extrato glicólico de açai e avaliação da atividade fotoprotetora

Sunscreen use is the most common photoprotection alternative used by the population, and so these products should offer improved protection with broad - spectrum, UVA and UVB protection . Vegetal substances have recently been considered as resources for sunscreen formulations due to their UV spectrum absorption and antioxidant properties. The Euterpe oleracea Mart., popularly known as açai, in its che mical composition contain polyphenols compounds, such as anthocyanins and flavonoids , to which antioxidant properties have been attributed . The aim of this work was to develop O/W sunscreens emulsions con taining açai glycolic extract ( AGE) and to evaluate both their physical stability , safety and photoprotective efficacy. The safety of the extract was evaluated by in vitro phototoxicity and cytotoxicity tests. Emulsions containing AGE and sunscreens were formulated using different types and concentrations o f polymeric surfactant (Acrylates/C 10 - 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and Sodium Polyacrylate). The influence of two rheology modifiers (Polyacrylamide (and) C13 - 14/Isoparaffin (and) Laureth - 7 and Carbomer) on the stability was also investigated. Physical stability was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated studies. The macroscopic analyses, pH value and electrical conductivity determinations and rheological behavior were evaluated at different time intervals . The in vivo Sun Protect Factor ( SPF ) was determined according to the International Sun Protection Factor Test Method – 2006 and UVA Protection Factor (FPUVA), wavelength critical and reason SPF/FPUVA were performed according to the method Colipa 2011. The extract did not present cytotoxic ity and phototoxic ity . The stable emulsion containing 5% glycolic extract of açai and 1.0% of sodium poliyacrylate showed pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior . The sunscreen emulsion containing açai glycolic extract showed a SPF 25.3 and PF - UVA = 14.97. Whe n açai glycolic extract was added in the emulsion sunscreen, no significant increase in the in vivo SPF and FPUVA values were observed. This emulsion showed 1.69 of the SPF/PF - UVA ratio and a critical wavelength value of 378 nm, so may therefore be conside red a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection.