Obtenção de extratos da Opuntia fícus-indica L. Mill e suas aplicações em formulações cosméticas: avaliação in vivo do sensorial e da eficácia hidratante

Opuntia fícus - indica (L.) Mill is a cactacea presents in the Caatinga ecosystem and shows in its chemical c omposition flavonoids, galacturonic acid and sugars. Different hydroglicolic (EHG001 and EHG002) and hydroethanolic subsequently lyophilized (EHE001 and EHE002) extracts were developed. The EHE002 had his preliminary phytochemical composition investigated by thin layer chromatography (TLC) and we observed the predominance of flavonoids. Different formulations were prepared as emulsions with Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth - 6 (Rapithix® A60), and Polyacrylamide (and) C13 - 14 I soparaffin (and) Laureth - 7 (Sepigel® 305), and gel with Sodium Polyacrylate (Rapithix® A100). The sensorial evaluation was conducted by check - all - that - apply method. There were no significant differences between the scores assigned to the formulations, howe ver, we noted a preference for those formulated with 1,5% of Rapithix® A100 and 3,0% of Sepigel® 305. These and the formulation with 3% Rapithix® A60 were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. In accelerated stability study, samples were stored at different temperatures for 90 days. Organoleptic characteristics, the pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. T he emulsions formulated with 3,0% of Sepigel® 305 and 1,5% of Rapithix® A60 w ere stable with pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior . The moisturizing clinical efficacy of the emulsions containing 3,0% of Sepigel® 305 containing 1 and 3% of EHG001 was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer®) and transepidermal water lost – TEWL evaluation ( Tewameter®). The results showed t hat the formulation with 3% of EHG001 increased the skin moisturizing against the vehicle and the extractor solvent formulation after five hours. The formulations containing 1 and 3% of EHG001 increased skin barrier effect by reducing transepidermal water loss up to four hours after application.

Desenvolvimento e caracterização de nanoemulsões cosméticas contendo extrato de Opuntia ficus-indica L. Mill e avaliação in vivo da eficácia hidratante

Nanoemulsions are emulsified systems, characterized for reduced droplet size (50- 500nm), which the main characteristic are kinect stability and thermodynamic instability. These are promising systems on cosmetic area due to their droplet size that provide different advantages when compared to conventional systems, among others, larger surface area and better permeability. The Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill is a plant cultivated on Caatinga Brazilian biome, which has great socioeconomic importance to region. This plant shows carbohydrates utilized for cosmetic industry as moisturizing active in their chemical composition. The aim of study was to develop, characterize, evaluate stability and moisturizing efficacy of cosmetic nanoemulsions added to Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extract. Nanoemulsions preparation was made using a low energy method. Different nanoemulsions were formulated varying the ratio of oil, water and surfactant phases beyond xanthan gum (0.5% e 1%) and Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill hydroglycolic extract addition on 1% and 3%. Obtained nanoemulsions were submitted to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. The evaluated parameters monitored were: macroscopic aspect, pH value, droplet size, zeta potential and polydispersion index, during 60 days on different temperatures. Stable formulations were submitted to moisturizing efficacy assessment by capacitance and transepidermal water loss methodologies during 5 hours. Stable samples were white and showed homogeneous and fluid aspect, pH value was inside ideal range (4,5-6,0) to topical application and droplet size under 200nm characterizing these system as nanoemulsions. Developed nanoemulsions did not decrease transepidermal water loss, however increased the water content on stratum corneum, highlighting the nanoemulsions containing 0.5% of xanthan gum and 1% of hydroglycolic extract. This work presents cosmetic moisturizing nanoemulsions composed to vegetal raw material from Brazilian Caatinga with potential to be used on cosmetic area.

John Stuart Mill e o cultivo da individualidade

The development of a human individual was a matter of investigation for many thinkers through the history of philosophy. The meanings that this development has taken were, nevertheless, very diversified, involving moral, political, epistemological, aesthetical and even religious aspects. The main agents in this process of development of human individuality are, on the one hand, each individual, who has to strive to improve himself the most, creating and resorting to the means available to that; on the other hand, the fomentalist State also have to take his part in this process, given that such a State has a direct interest in the development of his own citizens; it has to act in such a way that it can foment new and enhance the old existing means that can be used to accomplish the task of developing the human individuality. The goal of this thesis is to investigate the meaning that such development has acquired for the utilitarian philosopher John Stuart Mill, from his conception of individuality.