A vestimenta e a moda: uma análise da revista estilo

This research addresses the consumption of women's fashion, through an analysis of the contents of the Estilo magazine. This magazine is an licensing of American Instyle, directed at the female, published by Editora Abril in Brazil since 2002. To guide this research, in relation of the fashionable field, some relevants concepts and authors were worked, like Pierre Bourdieu, Gilda de Souza Melo, Georg Simmel, Gilles Lipovetsky among other fundamental to understanding both the consumption and fashion. Still in search of understanding the discourses that permeated the fashion world were done semi-structured interviews with two costume designers who work in two different shops specializing in fabrics in the Natal's city. Were analyzed Estilo magazines published from June 2008 to June 2009, relating to the data collected in interviews in order to understand how discourses are constructed and disseminated, becoming so efficient in the seduction of women's groups which is directed to achieve and consolidate the production of appropriate and acceptable form to wear

Compósito reforçado com sisal para aplicação na moda

The objective of this research is the fabrication of a composite reinforced with dyed sisal fiber and polyester matrix for application in the fields such as, fashion, clothing, interior textiles; fashion accessories are some of the examples. For the fabrication of the composite, the sisal fibers were subjected to processes such as: chemical treatment with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) in the removal of impurities; bleaching for removing the yellowish color of the natural fiber and dyeing with direct dyes to confer the colors blue, green and orange. The search for new technologies ecologically correct has become a major concern in recent decades. Studies show that composite polymer reinforced by natural fibers is suitable for a large number of applications, and its use is advantageous in terms of economic and ecological. The dyed fibers were cut to a length of 30 mm, is used in the confection of webs. For this purpose, a web preparer by immersion, developed in the Laboratory of Chemical Textile of UFRN. The composite sheets measuring 300 x 300 x3 mm were molded by compression, with unsaturated orthophthalic polyester as matrix, and the samples in sizes 150 x 25 x 3 mm were cut with the aid of a laser machine, to be subjected to traction and flexion. The mechanical properties of traction and flexion in three points were performed in the Laboratory of metal and mechanical tests of Materials Engineering of UFRN. The resulting samples from the tests were evaluated in scanning electron microscope (SEM) at CTGas RN. On the basis of the analysis of the results from the mechanical tests, it was observed that the composite had good mechanical behavior, both in traction as in flexion. Furthermore, it was observed that in the water absorption test, the samples had a different percentage among themselves, this occurred due to the variation of density found in the fibre webs. The images of the SEM showed the failures from the manufacturing process and the adhesion of fibre/matrix. When the samples were prepared with the dyed fibers to be applied in fashion, the results were positive, and it can be concluded that the main objective of this work was achieved

Publicidade e moda: um estudo sobre a materialidade da mídia e a produção de sentido na revista ffw>>mag!

The proposal of this research is to analyze the convergence between fashion and communication shown on the materiality of the print media, and how the language from the supporter influences on the production of sense by the target market. Made real in the research corpus comprised of six ffw>>mag! magazines from the year 2011. The applied conceptual mechanism tries to investigate the production of sense from the physical attributes before interpreting the message s content, to do so, the Materiality of Communication is used, which offers an investigative apparatus of the media in its material shape, and those as influences in the communicative acts and processes. Methodologically, we adopt the Peircean Semiotics Theory, for its study focus on the analysis of the possible processes of production of sense. Through Semiotics we achieve the interpretative levels that allow us to clarify the questionings that come from the research s objectives, identifying and tracing the cognitive and intelligibility schemes bound to the media speeches of materiality. The analysis coordinated to the concepts and theories employed in this study point to a confirmation that the materiality of the reviewed media communicates to the readers in the same intensity as its content, provides a preview of the content and notifies the intentions of the publication. In the commercial way, characterizing the target audience it craves, and also in the conceptual way, demonstrating the ideas it wants to communicate. Where the convergence between communication and fashion unfolds as the materiality of the media by the choice of the materials and finishing options, and mainly by the selection and manipulation of technical images and colors from the cycles of fashion

Uma linguagem de modelagem da interação para auxiliar a comunicação designer-usuário

The development of interactive systems involves several professionals and the integration between them normally uses common artifacts, such as models, that drive the development process. In the model-driven development approach, the interaction model is an artifact that includes the most of the aspects related to what and how the user can do while he/she interacting with the system. Furthermore, the interactive model may be used to identify usability problems at design time. Therefore, the central problematic addressed by this thesis is twofold. In the first place, the interaction modeling, in a perspective that helps the designer to explicit to developer, who will implement the interface, the aspcts related to the interaction process. In the second place, the anticipated identification of usability problems, that aims to reduce the application final costs. To achieve these goals, this work presents (i) the ALaDIM language, that aims to help the designer on the conception, representation and validation of his interactive message models; (ii) the ALaDIM editor, which was built using the EMF (Eclipse Modeling Framework) and its standardized technologies by OMG (Object Management Group); and (iii) the ALaDIM inspection method, which allows the anticipated identification of usability problems using ALaDIM models. ALaDIM language and editor were respectively specified and implemented using the OMG standards and they can be used in MDA (Model Driven Architecture) activities. Beyond that, we evaluated both ALaDIM language and editor using a CDN (Cognitive Dimensions of Notations) analysis. Finally, this work reports an experiment that validated the ALaDIM inspection method

Gestão da cadeia de suprimento e vantagem competitiva: uma análise em setores industriais a partir da visão relacional

This work has as its main purpose to investigate the contribution of supply chain management in order to obtain competitive advantage by companies from the textile industry and from Ceará footwear industry, focusing its analysis mainly in the interorganizational relations (dyadic). For this, the theoretical referential contemplates different explanatory streams of the competitive advantage, detaching the relational perception of the resources theory, as well as, the main presuppositions of the supply chain management which culminates with the development of an analysis sample that runs the empirical study; the one which considers an expanded purpose of the supply chain which includes the government and the abetment institutions as institutional environment representatives. Besides supply chain management consideration as a competitive advantage source, the work also tried to identify other possible competitive advantage sources for the companies of the investigated sectors. It represents a study of multiple interpretive cases, having four cases as a total; meaning two cases in each one of the sectors, which used as a primary data collecting instrument a semi-structured interview schedule. Different methods were used for the data analysis, the content analysis and the constant comparison methods, the analytical procedure originated from the grounded theory research strategy, which were applied the Atlas/ti software recourse. Considering the theoretical referential and the used analysis sample, four basic categories of the work were defined, including its respective proprieties and dimensions: (1) characteristics concerning to the relationship with the supplier; (2) the company relations with the government; (3) the company relations with the abetment institutions and; (4) obtaining sources of competitive advantage. In general, the applied research in the footwear sector revealed that in the relationships of the researched companies related to its suppliers, there is a predominance of the partnership system and the main presuppositions of the supply chain management are applied which contributes for the acquisition of the relational competitive advantage; while in the textile sector, only some of these presuppositions are applied, with little contribution for the relational competitive advantage. The main resource which was accessed by the companies in both sectors through its relationships with the government and the abetment institutions are the tax incentives which, for the footwear companies, contribute for the acquisition of the temporary competitive advantage in relation to the contestants who do not own productive installations in the Northeast region, it also conducts to a competitive parity situation in relation to the contestants who own productive installations in the Northeast region and to the external market contestants; while for the companies of the textile sector, the tax incentives run the companies to a competitive parity situation in relation to its contestants. Furthermore, the investigated companies from the two sectors possess acquisition sources of the competitive advantage which collimate with different explanatory streams (industrial analysis, resources theory, Austrian school and the dynamic capabilities theory), although there is a predominance of the product innovation as a competitive advantage source in both sectors, due to the bond of these with the fashion tendencies

Modos projetuais de simulação: uso de ferramentas de simulação térmica no processo projetual de arquitetura

This thesis aims to describe and demonstrate the developed concept to facilitate the use of thermal simulation tools during the building design process. Despite the impact of architectural elements on the performance of buildings, some influential decisions are frequently based solely on qualitative information. Even though such design support is adequate for most decisions, the designer will eventually have doubts concerning the performance of some design decisions. These situations will require some kind of additional knowledge to be properly approached. The concept of designerly ways of simulating focuses on the formulation and solution of design dilemmas, which are doubts about the design that cannot be fully understood nor solved without using quantitative information. The concept intends to combine the power of analysis from computer simulation tools with the capacity of synthesis from architects. Three types of simulation tools are considered: solar analysis, thermal/energy simulation and CFD. Design dilemmas are formulated and framed according to the architect s reflection process about performance aspects. Throughout the thesis, the problem is investigated in three fields: professional, technical and theoretical fields. This approach on distinct parts of the problem aimed to i) characterize different professional categories with regards to their design practice and use of tools, ii) investigate preceding researchers on the use of simulation tools and iii) draw analogies between the proposed concept, and some concepts developed or described in previous works about design theory. The proposed concept was tested in eight design dilemmas extracted from three case studies in the Netherlands. The three investigated processes are houses designed by Dutch architectural firms. Relevant information and criteria from each case study were obtained through interviews and conversations with the involved architects. The practical application, despite its success in the research context, allowed the identification of some applicability limitations of the concept, concerning the architects need to have technical knowledge and the actual evolution stage of simulation tools

Inserção da informática nos cursos de Arquitetura e Urbanismo do Brasil (1994 2006): diagnósticos, rebatimentos e perspectivas nas Instituições Federais de Ensino Superior do Nordeste: UFRN, UFPB e UFPE

This work supports the formalist education s improvement of the Brazilian architect and urban designer through a better application and systematization of the computer science s teaching potentialities. The research analyzes the discipline introduction in the Brazilian courses: Computer Science Applied to Architecture and Urbanism (InfoAU) in the Architecture and Urbanism Courses of Brazil (CAUs). It goes since the discipline was obligated by the MEC s Regulation nr. 1.770 from 1994 until the CNE/CES Resolution nr. 6 from 2006; it comprehends the discipline implantation, development and current context, in order to get more detailed, the research analyses three federal universities from the Northeast of the country: UFRN, UFPB and UFPE. Once identified the historical educational needs in the CAUs, the study focus on the computer science s increasing potential as an agent of integration, communication, development and knowledge/data management. It points out new social perspectives for a better use of this tool/mechanism, which adequately structuralized and integrated, creates propitious educational and professional performance/recycling conditions and a propeller instrument of research and extension activities. Among this work, it is suggested the aggregation of elements, which are complementary to the InfoAU discipline s reorganization, throughout a computerization s plan for the CAUs, extensive to the professional formation, generating a virtuous cycle in several activities of the academic, administrative and, research and extension s departments. Therefore, the InfoAU in the Brazilian CAUs context was analyzed; the main solutions and problems found were systemized; the possibilities of computer science s uses inside AU ware structuralized, InfoAU discipline s improvement plan was also defined, as well as strategies for the implementation of the computerization s plan for the CAUs, which would guarantee its maintenance in a continuity perspective

Estudos de Durabilidade Frente ao Ataque Ácido de Compósitos Portland-Polímero para Cimentação de Poços de Petróleo

Portland-polymers composites are promising candidates to be used as cementing material in Northeastern oil wells of Brazil containing heavy oils submitted to steam injection. In this way, it is necessary to evaluate its degradation in the commonly acidizind agents. In addition, to identify how aggressive are the different hostile environments it is an important contribution on the decision of the acidic systems to be used in. It was investigated the performance of the Portland-polymer composites using powdered polyurethane, aqueous polyurethane, rubber tire residues and a biopolymer, those were reinforced with polished carbon steel SAE 1045 to make the electrochemical measurements. HCl 15,0 %, HCl 6,0 % + HF 1,5 % (soft mud acid), HCl 12,0 % + HF 3,0 % (regular mud acid) and HAc 10 % + HF 1,5 % were used as degrading environment and electrolytes. The more aggressive acid solution to the plain Portland hardened cement paste was the regular mud acid, that showed loss of weight around 23.0 %, followed by the soft mud acid, the showed 11.0 %, 15.0 % HCl with 7,0 % and, at last the 10.0 % HAc plus HF 1.5 % with just 1.0 %. The powdered polyurethane-composite and the aqueous polyurethane one showed larger durability, with reduction around 87.0 % on the loss of weight in regular mud acid. The acid attack is superficial and it occurs as an action layer, where the degraded layer is responsible for the decrease on the kinetic of the degrading process. This behavior can be seen mainly on the Portland- aqueous polyurethane composite, because the degraded layer is impregnated with chemically modified polymer. The fact of the acid attack does not have influence on the compressive strength or fratography of the samples, in a general way, confirms that theory. The mechanism of the efficiency of the Portland-polymers composites subjected to acid attack is due to decreased porosity and permeability related with the plain Portland paste, minor quantity of Ca+2, element preferentially leached to the acidic solution, wave effect and to substitute part of the degrading bulk for the polymeric one. The electrolyte HAc 10 % + HF 1,5 % was the least aggressive one to the external corrosion of the casing, showing open circuit potentials around +250 mV compared to -130 mV to the simulated pore solution to the first 24 hours immersion. This behavior has been performed for two months at least. Similar corrosion rates were showed between both of the electrolytes, around 0.01 μA.cm-2. Total impedance values, insipient arcs and big polarization resistance capacitive arcs on the Nyquist plots, indicating passivity process, confirm its efficiency. In this way, Portlandpolymers composites are possible solutions to be succeed applied to oilwell cementing concomitant submitted to steam injection and acidizing operation and the HAc 10,0 % + HF 1,5 % is the less aggressive solution to the external corrosion of the casing

Estudo da viabilidade do sistema LZAS para uso como selante de PaCOS

Cells the solid oxide fuel are systems capable to directly convert energy of a chemical reaction into electric energy in clean, quiet way and if its components in the solid state differentiate of excessively the techniques for having all. Its more common geometric configurations are: the tubular one and to glide. Geometry to glide beyond the usual components (anode, cathode and electrolyte) needs interconnect and sealant. E the search for materials adjusted for these components is currently the biggest challenge found for the production of the cells. The sealants need to present chemical stability in high temperatures, to provoke electric isolation, to have coefficient of compatible thermal expansion with the excessively component ones. For presenting these characteristics the glass-ceramics materials are recommended for the application. In this work the study of the partial substitution of the ZrO2 for the Al2O3 in system LZS became it aiming at the formation of system LZAS, this with the addition of natural spodumene with 10, 20 and 30% in mass. The compositions had been casting to a temperature of 1500°C and later quickly cooled with the objective to continue amorphous. Each composition was worn out for attainment of a dust with average diameter of approximately 3μm and characterized by the techniques of DRX, FRX, MEV, dilatometric analysis and particle size analysis. Later the samples had been conformed and treated thermally with temperatures in the interval between 700-1000 °C, with platform of 10 minutes and 1 hour. The analyses for the treated samples had been: dilatometric analysis, DRX, FRX, electrical conductivity and tack. The results point with respect to the viability of the use of system LZAS for use as sealant a time that had presented good results as isolating electric, they had adhered to a material with similar α of the components of a SOFC and had presented steady crystalline phases

O conhecimento e as atitudes das famílias de pacientes em tratamento em tuberculose na atenção primária à saúde

This study thus sought to examine knowledge about TB and attitudes of patients families in disease treatment in Primary Health Care in Natal- RN. To this end, a cross-sectional study was undertaken through a questionnaire with families of patients diagnosed with TB and follow up by APS from Natal. The study subjects were recruited from a non-probabilistic way, by convenience, contemplating a sample of 50 families. Among the criteria considered for inclusion of subjects, older than 18 years were considered, as well as residing with the TB patient and in Natal and availability to participate in the research. Data collection was performed by own researcher and an assistant, through a questionnaire with families of patients diagnosed with TB following the double independent digitalization of data. In the analytical phase, was initially conducted an exploratory phase and univariate data, with description of the position measurements (mean, median, mode) and dispersion (confidence interval and standard deviation). In bivariate analysis, it was conducted an intersection of dependent variables of knowledge e and changes of attitude dichotomous, with each of the independent variables, using contingency tables and calculating the chi-square test and, when appropriate, the Fisher exact test. In 2x2 tables, calculated the odds ratio (OR) with confidence intervals of 95% (95% CI). From the selected sample, 43 (86%) subjects were female, average age and median respectively of 46.64 and 46.50 years, 25 (50%) had elementary school. The knowledge expressed by family members about TB was considered satisfactory. However, the lack of interest of the family (54%) in seeking information about tuberculosis; the wrong way of reply in relation to the organism causing the disease (64%); the water content (62%) and contaminated food (54% ) as a means of spreading TB was a weakness identified in the investigation. Regarding the time of transmission, 90% of respondents indicated not know or answered wrong. From investigated independent variables, only two were associated with lack of knowledge of TB, and they did not have religion (OR: 0.146, 95% CI: 0.027 to 0.800) and income below 1, 7 minimum wages (OR: 0.155, 95% CI: 0.029 to 0.813). Thus they seem to exercise a protective effect on this outcome. As for the changes in attitude, most of the found variables had no association with statistical significance, except no internet access (OR: 0.212, 95% CI: 0,048-0, 935). Most attitudes were positive in relation to TB patient. Results have demonstrated weaknesses in TB care, which has taken on a more individual and welfare character. Data not only express health outcomes produced by health services, but also the political and social situation of the families that are affected by TB

Análise de Argamassas Com Substituição Parcial do Cimento Portland Por Cinza Residual de Lenha de Algaroba

With the increase in cement consumption, it has quickly become one of the inputs most consumed by mankind over the last century. This has caused an increase in CO2 emissions, as cement production releases large quantities of this gas into the atmosphere. Adding this fact to the growing consciousness of environmental preservation, it has led to a search for alternatives to cement to complement its derivatives, in the form of waste materials like the ashes. This research aimed to analyze the properties of mortars in fresh and hardened state with partial replacement of Portland cement by residual algaroba wood ash (CRLA) potteries produced by the state of Rio Grande do Norte. The CRLA was collected and sieved, where part of it was ground and characterized in comparison with that just sifted, being characterized according to its chemical composition, grain size, fineness, density, bulk density and index of pozzolanic activity. It was found that the wood ash does not act as pozzolan, and grinding it has not changed its characteristics compared to those just sifted, not justifying its use. Two traces were adopted for this research: 1:3 (cement: fine sand) and 1:2:8 (cement: hydrated lime: medium sand); both in volume, using as materials the CRLA just sifted, CP II F-32 Portland cement, CH-I hydrated lime, river sand and water from the local utility. For each trace were adopted six percentages of partial replacement of cement for wood ash: 0% (control) 5%, 7%, 10%, 12% and 15%. In the fresh state, the mortars were tested towards their consistency index and mass density. In the hardened state, they were tested towards their tensile strength in bending, compressive strength and tensile adhesion strength, and its mass density in the hardened state. The mortar was also analyzed by scanning electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Furthermore, it was classified according to NBR 13281 (2005). The results showed that up to a content of 5% substitution and for both traces, the residual algaroba wood ash can replace Portland cement without compromising the mortars microstructure and its fresh and hardened state

Determinação dos parâmetros do controlador preditivo generalizado com função de pesos variante no tempo através de algoritmos genéticos

The predictive control technique has gotten, on the last years, greater number of adepts in reason of the easiness of adjustment of its parameters, of the exceeding of its concepts for multi-input/multi-output (MIMO) systems, of nonlinear models of processes could be linearised around a operating point, so can clearly be used in the controller, and mainly, as being the only methodology that can take into consideration, during the project of the controller, the limitations of the control signals and output of the process. The time varying weighting generalized predictive control (TGPC), studied in this work, is one more an alternative to the several existing predictive controls, characterizing itself as an modification of the generalized predictive control (GPC), where it is used a reference model, calculated in accordance with parameters of project previously established by the designer, and the application of a new function criterion, that when minimized offers the best parameters to the controller. It is used technique of the genetic algorithms to minimize of the function criterion proposed and searches to demonstrate the robustness of the TGPC through the application of performance, stability and robustness criterions. To compare achieves results of the TGPC controller, the GCP and proportional, integral and derivative (PID) controllers are used, where whole the techniques applied to stable, unstable and of non-minimum phase plants. The simulated examples become fulfilled with the use of MATLAB tool. It is verified that, the alterations implemented in TGPC, allow the evidence of the efficiency of this algorithm

Antenas de microfita com patch quase-fractal para aplicações em Redes WPAN/WLAN

The microstrip antennas are in constant evidence in current researches due to several advantages that it presents. Fractal geometry coupled with good performance and convenience of the planar structures are an excellent combination for design and analysis of structures with ever smaller features and multi-resonant and broadband. This geometry has been applied in such patch microstrip antennas to reduce its size and highlight its multi-band behavior. Compared with the conventional microstrip antennas, the quasifractal patch antennas have lower frequencies of resonance, enabling the manufacture of more compact antennas. The aim of this work is the design of quasi-fractal patch antennas through the use of Koch and Minkowski fractal curves applied to radiating and nonradiating antenna s edges of conventional rectangular patch fed by microstrip inset-fed line, initially designed for the frequency of 2.45 GHz. The inset-fed technique is investigated for the impedance matching of fractal antennas, which are fed through lines of microstrip. The efficiency of this technique is investigated experimentally and compared with simulations carried out by commercial software Ansoft Designer used for precise analysis of the electromagnetic behavior of antennas by the method of moments and the neural model proposed. In this dissertation a study of literature on theory of microstrip antennas is done, the same study is performed on the fractal geometry, giving more emphasis to its various forms, techniques for generation of fractals and its applicability. This work also presents a study on artificial neural networks, showing the types/architecture of networks used and their characteristics as well as the training algorithms that were used for their implementation. The equations of settings of the parameters for networks used in this study were derived from the gradient method. It will also be carried out research with emphasis on miniaturization of the proposed new structures, showing how an antenna designed with contours fractals is capable of a miniaturized antenna conventional rectangular patch. The study also consists of a modeling through artificial neural networks of the various parameters of the electromagnetic near-fractal antennas. The presented results demonstrate the excellent capacity of modeling techniques for neural microstrip antennas and all algorithms used in this work in achieving the proposed models were implemented in commercial software simulation of Matlab 7. In order to validate the results, several prototypes of antennas were built, measured on a vector network analyzer and simulated in software for comparison

Desenvolvimento de circuitos planares sobre substratos têxteis

The use of flexible materials for the development of planar circuits is one of the most desired and studied characteristics, lately, by researchers. This happens because the flexibility of the substrate can provide previously impracticable applications, due to the rigidity of the substrates normally used that makes it difficult to fit into the circuits in irregular surfaces. The constant interest in recent years for more lighter devices, increasingly more compacts, flexible and with low cost, led to a new line of research of great interest from both academic and technological views, that is the study and development of textile substrates that can be applied in the development of planar circuits, for applications in the areas of security, biomedical and telecommunications. This paper proposes the development of planar circuits, such as antennas , frequency selective surfaces (FSS) and planar filters, using textile (cotton ticking, jeans and brim santista) as the dielectric substrate and the Pure Copper Polyester Taffeta Fabric, a textile of pure copper, highly conductive, lightweight and flexible, commercially sold as a conductive material. The electrical characteristics of textiles (electric permittivity and loss tangent) were characterized using the transmission line method (rectangular waveguide) and compared with those found in the literature. The structures were analyzed using commercial software Ansoft Designer and Ansoft HFSS, both from the company Ansys and for comparison we used the Iterative Method of Waves (WCIP). For the purpose of validation were built and measured several prototypes of antennas, planar filters and FSS, being possible to confirm an excellent agreement between simulated and measured results