Desenvolvimento e caracterização de nanoemulsões cosméticas contendo extrato de Opuntia ficus-indica L. Mill e avaliação in vivo da eficácia hidratante

Nanoemulsions are emulsified systems, characterized for reduced droplet size (50- 500nm), which the main characteristic are kinect stability and thermodynamic instability. These are promising systems on cosmetic area due to their droplet size that provide different advantages when compared to conventional systems, among others, larger surface area and better permeability. The Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill is a plant cultivated on Caatinga Brazilian biome, which has great socioeconomic importance to region. This plant shows carbohydrates utilized for cosmetic industry as moisturizing active in their chemical composition. The aim of study was to develop, characterize, evaluate stability and moisturizing efficacy of cosmetic nanoemulsions added to Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extract. Nanoemulsions preparation was made using a low energy method. Different nanoemulsions were formulated varying the ratio of oil, water and surfactant phases beyond xanthan gum (0.5% e 1%) and Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill hydroglycolic extract addition on 1% and 3%. Obtained nanoemulsions were submitted to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. The evaluated parameters monitored were: macroscopic aspect, pH value, droplet size, zeta potential and polydispersion index, during 60 days on different temperatures. Stable formulations were submitted to moisturizing efficacy assessment by capacitance and transepidermal water loss methodologies during 5 hours. Stable samples were white and showed homogeneous and fluid aspect, pH value was inside ideal range (4,5-6,0) to topical application and droplet size under 200nm characterizing these system as nanoemulsions. Developed nanoemulsions did not decrease transepidermal water loss, however increased the water content on stratum corneum, highlighting the nanoemulsions containing 0.5% of xanthan gum and 1% of hydroglycolic extract. This work presents cosmetic moisturizing nanoemulsions composed to vegetal raw material from Brazilian Caatinga with potential to be used on cosmetic area.