Effects of site of assessment and variation in wool quality traits on the tactile assessment of textural greasy wool handle

Variation in textural greasy wool handle across the fleece of Merino sheep was explored. Results demonstrate that there were significant differences across nine sites on the fleece. The inclusion of the covariates fibre diameter, fibre diameter co-efficient of variation, staple length, dust penetration, staple structure, greasy wool colour and resistance to compression, helped to explain some of the variation in textural greasy wool handle between sites such that site of assessment was no longer a significant factor (P ≤ 0.065). However, in practice, those involved with clip preparation or sheep selection based on textural greasy wool handle assessment are unlikely to have these measurements available. The results highlight the importance of nominating a site of assessment when recording textural greasy wool handle. © CSIRO 2014.

Fabric and greasy wool handle, their importance to the Australian wool industry: a review

Handle-related properties of woollen fabrics have been demonstrated to be major factors affecting consumer buying attitudes. Handle is the combination of both textural and compressional attributes. Compressional handle has demonstrated processing advantages in woven and knitted fabrics. The handle of processing lots can be manipulated using a variety of technologies but direct manipulation of textural greasy wool handle pre-processing is still crude. On-farm, there is documented evidence that including handle assessment in a selection index provides additional improvements in genetic gain. However, the assessment of greasy wool handle is based on a tactile evaluation of the wool staple by sheep and wool classers, and its application is affected by a lack of framework that instructs assessors on a standard method of assessment. Once a reliable and repeatable protocol is developed, further understanding of the effect greasy wool handle has on final garment quality will be possible.

A study on dehairing Australian greasy cashmere

Cashmere is a luxury fiber with high international demand. Australian cashmere fleece is shorn rather than hand combed, and the shorn fleece contains a large quantity of coarse guard hair. Normally raw cashmere fleece is scoured first, followed by dehairing to eliminate the coarse guard hair. But scouring the unwanted guard hair consumes a large quantity of water, and increases the cost of cashmere processing in Australia. Ideally, the guard hair should be removed first and then the fine cashmere fibers are scoured for further processing. This paper reports trial results on dehairing greasy rather than scoured Australian cashmere fleece, with the aim of reducing scouring cost and water consumption. The quality of cashmere fibers after the conventional dehairing process and the new greasy dehairing process has been assessed. The results indicate that fiber quality from the greasy dehairing process is better than that from conventional scouring then dehairing process.

Frequency dependence of ultrasonic wool scouring

Conventional aqueous scouring of greasy wool promotes wool felting and can be energy and water intensive. Ultrasonic wool scouring could be an alternative technology to minimise the negative impact, provided that the cleaning efficiency and fibre quality are not compromised. This study  examined the influence of ultrasonic irradiation frequency and ultrasonic power variations on wool scouring performance at different liquor ratios. Scoured fibre, residual ash content, residual grease content, whiteness and yellowness were evaluated. The impact of liquor degassing on wool scouring effectiveness was studied. Fibre surface damage was also assessed in this work. It was observed that while there was no significant influence of ultrasonic frequency on the whiteness or yellowness of the scoured fibres, wool scoured at frequencies of 28 kHz and 80 kHz had more grease and dirt removed than that scoured at 45 kHz. Low ultrasonic power and degassed bath liquor increased wool grease removal ability. Ultrasonic treatment caused scale cracking/peeling in some wool fibres. More severe cuticle damage was observed in fibres scoured at the lower frequency. This damage resulted in increased dye uptake by the fibres.

Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

Previous investigations have shown that prickle discomfort sensations of wool fabrics are primarily determined by the mean fiber diameter of the wool. It is also known that differences in wool fiber curvature (crimp) affect softness of handle of greasy wool and of wool textiles. In a replicated experiment, we investigated if wearers could detect the effect of using 17 µm superfine wool of low (74°/mm) or high (114°/mm) fiber curvature, and when the wools were blended with 17 µm cashmere (fiber curvature 49°/mm) in differing proportions, on four comfort sensations. Eight single jersey knitted fabrics were assessed under a controlled protocol using forearm sleeves made of the test fabric and a control fabric. Data (37 sensorial assessments of high curvature wool fabrics; 38 sensorial assessments of low curvature wool fabrics) were analyzed using linear mixed model analysis (restricted maximum likelihood), which included fixed effects for wool type and blend ratio and a random effect for participant. The use of a control sleeve fabric reduced variance due to participant effects by providing an anchor for each sensation over time. Wool fiber curvature affected participant assessment of breathability, comfort, feel after exercise (damp/dry) and skin feel (prickly/soft), with preferred values associated with high curvature (crimp) superfine wool. Increasing the proportion of cashmere in fabrics increased skin feel (better assessed softness). Skin feel was strongly associated with the evaluation of the fabrics by the Wool ComfortMeter and with increasing hairiness of yarns.

Contribution of objective and subjective attributes to the variation in the whiteness and brightness of commercial mohair sale lots

Colour properties are measured prior to the sale of merino wool as they are of commercial importance when greasy wool is sold and when wool is dyed. With the paucity of knowledge of the colour properties of commercial mohair, this study aimed to identify and quantify the factors affecting the brightness (Y) and yellowness (Y-Z) values of commercial lots of Australian mohair. The research database comprised 520 sale lots (>500,000 kg mohair), which had tristimulus tests, and was sold during the period 2001–2009. Mohair was subjectively classed and sale lots objectively tested using international standard methods for mean fibre diameter (MFD, μm), fibre diameter coefficient of variation (%), International Wool Testing Organization (IWTO) clean wool base (IWTO yield, %w/w), vegetable matter (VM, %w/w) and the tristimulus values X, Y and Z (T units). The tristimulus values of Australian mohair were affected by the objective measurements of MFD, VM%, the subjective classing of stain, cotting, kemp and length and by the year and selling season. Variation in Y was more easily predicted with 90.5% of variance explained by the best model compared with variation in Y-Z, where the best model explained 51.6% of the total variance. Visually assessed properties of the mohair were very important in separating mohair of different Y properties, accounting for almost 80% of the total variance, but were far less important in accounting for the variance in Y-Z, accounting for about 9–10% of the total variance. The most important effects on the Y of mohair were associated with subjectively determined fault categories determined before the sale of mohair. In particular, stain fault explained about two-thirds of the variance in brightness of mohair sale lots. Stained mohair had much lower brightness than mohair free of stain but stain fault explained very little of the variation in yellowness of mohair sale lots. The extent of the differences in tristimulus values between seasons and years were not large for Y but were more important for yellowness (Y-Z), and these effects are likely to be of commercial importance. Generally, brightness decreased and yellowness increased as MFD increased up to about 30 μm. Both cotting and kemp fault were associated with reduced brightness and increased yellowness. The effects of VM% on tristimulus values were small. IWTO yield was associated with changes in tristimulus values, but in the best model, IWTO yield was not a significant determinant. This study indicates that commercial Australian fleece (nonfaulted) mohair was essentially white. Faulted mohair on the other hand exhibited poorer colour characteristics. The mohair subjectively identified as stained prior to sale comprised all the mohair which would be regarded as not white, and this investigation indicates that the effect of staining is on the brightness of mohair rather than the Y-Z measurement. Unlike the situation with merino wool, there was little relationship between the naturally occurring contaminants, as measured by the IWTO washing yield, and either Y or Y-Z.

Relationships between wearer assessment and the instrumental measurement of the handle and prickle of knitted wool fabrics

The relationships between wearer-assessed comfort and objectively measured comfort and handle parameters were investigated using 19 pure wool single jersey garments made of single ply yarns. Wearer trials were used to determine prickle discomfort, and whether wearers “liked” the garments. Fabrics then were objectively evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes; and the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM), to predict a wearer's perception of fabric-evoked prickle. Wearer responses and the relationships within and between objective measurements and the effect of fibre, yarn and fabrics attributes were analysed by general linear modelling. Mean fibre diameter, fibre diameter coefficient of variation, yarn count, fabric thickness, fabric density, fabric mass per unit area and decatising affected one or more handle parameters. The best model for predicting wearer prickle discomfort accounted for 90.9% of the variance and included only terms for the WCM and WCM2. The WCM was a good predictor whereas mean fibre diameter was a poor predictor of whether wearers “liked” garments. Wearer assessment of prickle and whether or not wearers “liked” fabrics were independent of fabric handle assessment. The results indicate that the handle and comfort properties of lightweight, wool jersey fabrics can be quantified accurately using the Wool HandleMeter and the Wool ComfortMeter. For fabric handle, fibre and yarn characteristics were less important than changes in the properties of the fabric.

Fabric handle properties of superfine wool fabrics with different fibre curvature, cashmere content and knitting tightness

The handle properties of single jersey fabrics composed of superfine wools (17 μm) of different fibre curvature (114 vs. 74 °/mm) in blends with cashmere (fibre curvature 49 °/mm) were investigated. There were four blend ratios of cashmere (0, 25, 50, 75%) plus 100% cashmere. Each of the nine fibre blend combinations were replicated three times, and each was knitted into three tightness factors. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes and Overall handle, and have been calibrated using a panel of experts and a wide variety of commercial fabrics. Results were analysed by ANOVA and general linear modelling. Tightness factor significantly affected all Wool HandleMeter attribute values, with the effect of tightness factor varying according to handle attribute. The Wool HandleMeter was able to detect differences between fabrics composed of superfine wool differing in fibre curvature, with lower fibre curvature wool fabrics having more preferred Overall handle and softer, looser, cooler, lighter and less dry handle attributes at some or all tightness factors compared with fabrics composed of higher fibre curvature superfine wool. Progressively blending cashmere with wool significantly improved Overall handle, increased soft and smooth handle, reduced dry, heavy and tight handle. Linear regression modelling indicated that fabric mass per unit area explained more than 50% of the variance in overall fabric handle and in combination with variations in fabric thickness and yarn elongation could explain 71% of the variance in Overall handle.

Woolgrowers, brokers and the debate over the sale of the Australian wool clip, 1920-1925

Prior to the First World War, the selling of the Australian wool clip rested firmly in the hands of the large woolbroking firms. An agreement between the British and Australian governments during the war saw many of the wool-selling functions of broking firms taken over by the Central Wool Committee. At the conclusion of hostilities, brokers moved to regain their role in the market. However, market conditions had changed. On an international level, traditional trading relationships had broken down, leaving commodity markets unstable and prices unpredictable. On a local level, woolgrowers had benefited from the wartime orderly marketing scheme and the high price guaranteed by the British government for their wool clip. As a result, they had begun to demand a greater role in the selling arrangements of their clip. This paper investigates the debates over the sale of the wool clip in the 1920s and how woolbrokers and growers eventually arrived at an understanding as to the manner in which the market should operate.

Characterization of conductive polyprrole coated wool yarns

Wool yarns were coated with conducting polypyrrole by chemical synthesis methods. Polymerization of pyrrole was carried out in the presence of wool yarn at various concentrations of the monomer and dopant anion. The changes in tensile, moisture absorption, and electrical properties of the yarn upon coating with conductive polypyrrole are presented. Coating the wool yarns with conductive polypyrrole resulted in higher tenacity, higher breaking strain, and lower initial modulus. The changes in tensile properties are attributed to the changes in surface morphology due to the coating and reinforcing effect of conductive polypyrrole. The thickness of the coating increased with the concentration of p-toluene sulfonic acid, which in turn caused a reduction in the moisture regain of the wool yarn. Reducing the synthesis temperature and replacing p-toluenesulfonic acid by anthraquinone sulfonic acid resulted in a large reduction in the resistance of the yarn.

Resistance to compression behavior of alpaca and wool

This study compares the resistance to compression behavior of wool and alpaca fibers. It shows that alpaca fibers have a much lower resistance to compression than wool, and there is little correlation between the resistance to compression and the curvature for alpaca fibers. Yet for wool fibers, the correlation between resistance to compression and curvature is very strong and positive. The differences in fiber curvature and scale profiles of alpaca and wool, together with the test method for resistance to compression, may explain their different resistances to compression.