Photochromic coloration of wool fabric

A method has been developed for producing photochromic wool fabric by applying a layer of hybrid silica containing a photochromic dye onto wool fibres. A number of different hybrid silicas were prepared by the sol-gel technique involving co-hydrolysis and co-condensation of alkyltrialkoxysilanes together with 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane. With the dye Photorome II, it was possible to obtain a photo chromic coating which showed fast optical response. The coating had only a slight effect on the fabric handle. The durability of the coating appeared to be acceptable, at least for fashion wear.

Identification of cashmere and superfine merino wool with wavelet texture analysis

This paper presents the use of the wavelet transform to extract fibre surface texture features for classifying cashmere and superfine merino wool fibres. To extract features from brightness variations caused by the cuticular scale height, shape and interval provides an effective way for characterising different animal fibres and subsequently classifying them. This may enable the development of a completely automated and objective system for animal fibre
identification.

Preparation of nanofibre yarns from electrospun nonwoven strips

From ancient to modern time, humans have been trying to use finer fibres to make fibrous products for various purposes and believing that finer fibres have better aesthetic qualities. So far, the commercial fibres have been reduced to microns in diameter, but it seems difficult to further reduce the fibre fineness to submicrons using conventional fibre-making techniques.
Electrospinning is a promising technique to produce continuous fibres with diameters on nanometre scales. This technique involves stretching a polymer fluid under a strong electric field into fine filaments, which are deposited randomly on the electrode collector forming a nonwoven nanofibre mat in most cases. Despite considerable efforts in exploring the applications of electrospun nanofibres in non-fibrous fields [1], very limited work has been conducted on using this material to process mechanically robust nanofibre yarns [2,3].

Yarn setting and hairiness reduction with a steam jet during winding

This paper examines the use of pressurized steam for wrapping and setting the yarn hairs concurrently via a new steam-jet process during winding. Yarn torque can also be stabilized as an added advantage. The results obtained with two batches of pure wool yarns suggest that there is potential to achieve yarn hairiness reduction of up to 60 % with minimum deterioration in hairiness even after subsequent rewinding.

The limiting irregularity of single wool fibers

Fiber irregularity affects fiber mechanical properties. This study has, for the first time, introduced the concept of limiting irregularity to single wool fibers. The limiting irregularity is the minimum variation in fiber cross sectional area that can be expected of a single wool fiber, assuming a random length-wise distribution of its constituent cortical cells. Cortical cells were extracted from merino wool fibers and their dimensions were measured from SEM images to calculate their cross sectional area variations both between cortical cells and within cortical cells, and to work out the average number of cortical cells in the cross section of wool fibers of a given diameter. Single wool fibers were also measured at 5 µm interval along length for fiber diameter variations. These variations were found to be larger than that based on fiber limiting irregularity.

Effects of leveling agent on the uptake of reactive dyes by untreated and plasma-treated wool

Atmospheric-pressure plasma treatment of wool fabric produced a significantly higher level of adsorbed fiber-reactive dye when applied at 50 °C (pH 3.0–6.0) in the absence of any organic leveling agent. In addition, color yields indicated that dye was more uniformly adsorbed by the plasma-treated fabric compared with the untreated material. When untreated fabric was dyed in the presence of a leveling agent (Albegal B), the extent and levelness of dye sorption were enhanced. These enhancements were, however, relatively small on the plasma-treated wool compared with those on untreated wool. A ‘surface’ mechanism, similar to that proposed when plasma-treated wool is dyed in the absence of leveling agent, can explain the leveling ability of Albegal B under adsorption conditions. Increasing the dyebath temperature to 90 °C resulted in dye penetration of the fibers. Under these conditions, any enhancements of dye uptake produced by the plasma treatment, as well as the use of Albegal B, were relatively small, in contrast to the behavior at 50 °C. Improvements in the uniformity of dye sorption observed at 50 °C were, however, maintained at the higher temperature. It is concluded that the inability of reactive dyes to migrate (and so promote leveling and uniformity) once they have reacted with the fiber, means that differences in the uniformity of dye sorbed at 50 °C are still apparent at equilibrium.

Effects of plasma treatment of wool on the uptake of sulfonated dyes with different hydrophobic properties

A wool fabric has been subjected to an atmospheric-pressure treatment with a helium plasma for 30 seconds. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry confirmed removal of the covalently-bound fatty acid layer (F-layer) from the surface of the wool fibers, resulting in exposure of the underlying, hydrophilic protein material. Dye uptake experiments were carried out at 50 ºC to evaluate the effects of plasma on the rate of dye uptake by the fiber surface, as well as give an indication of the adsorption characteristics in the early stages of a typical dyeing cycle. The dyes used were typical, sulfonated wool dyes with a range of hydrophobic characteristics, as determined by their partitioning behavior between water and n-butanol. No significant effects of plasma on the rate of dye adsorption were observed with relatively hydrophobic dyes. In contrast, the relatively hydrophilic dyes were adsorbed more rapidly (and uniformly) by the plasma-treated fabric. It was concluded that adsorption of hydrophobic dyes on plasma-treated wool was influenced by hydrophobic interactions, whereas electrostatic effects predominated for dyes of more hydrophilic character. On heating the dyebath to 90 ºC in order to achieve fiber penetration, no significant effect of the plasma treatment on the extent of uptake or levelness of a relatively hydrophilic dye was observed as equilibrium conditions were approached.

The photostability of wool doped with photocatalytic titanium dioxide

Photoyellowing of wool is a serious problem for the wool industry. This study assessed the role of photocatalytic nanocrystalline titanium dioxide (P-25) as a potential antagonist or catalyst in the photoyellowing of wool. Untreated, bleached and bleached and fluorescent-whitened wool slivers were processed into fine wool powders for the purpose of even and intimate mixing with the TiO2 nanoparticles in the solid state. Pure wool and wool/TiO2 mixtures were then compressed into solid discs for a photoyellowing study under simulated sunlight and under UVB and UVC radiations. Yellowness and photo-induced chemiluminescence (PICL) measurements showed that nanocrystalline TiO2 could effectively reduce the rate of photoyellowing by inhibiting free radical generation in doped wool, and that a higher concentration of TiO2 contributed to a lower rate of photooxidation and reduced photoyellowing. Hence nanocrystalline TiO2 acts primarily as a UV absorber on wool in dry conditions and not as a photocatalyst.

Thermoplastic film from superfine wool powder

In this paper a research work is described in which superfine wool powder was plasticised by glycerol and hot-pressed into a kind of thermoplastic film. SEM photos show that the powder is moulded into a smooth surface and is conglutinated into a continuous phase in the cross-section of the film. The glycerol content, moulding pressure, temperature and moulding time were changed in the moulding process. The sizes and thickness aw well as tensile strength, modulus, breaking elongation and breaking energy of the films were also tested to investigate the thermoplasticity and mechanical properties of the films. The best moulding techniques included a glycerol content of 30%, a moulding pressure of 5 MPa, a temperature of 160 °C and a moulding time of 5 minutes.

Investigation of yarn hairiness

Yarn hairiness affects not only the quality of products, but also the productivity in spinning and weaving. Too much yarn hairiness is undesirable for many end uses as well as the spinning and post spinning processes. The main aims of this project are to examine the hairiness features of various yarns and to reduce yarn hairiness. The thesis covers five related areas – hairiness assessment, factors affecting yarn hairiness, the hairiness of newly developed yarns, yarn hairiness reduction, and effect of yarn hairiness on the energy consumption in ring spinning. The worsted cashmere, pure wool and wool/cashmere blend yarns were employed to investigate the effect of some fibre parameters on the yarn hairiness. A single exponential distribution of the hair-length was confirmed first, using the data from the Zweigle G565 Hairiness Meter. A linear relationship was observed between the blend ratio and the hairiness indexes. In particular, the effect of fibre crimp or curvature on yarn hairiness is examined. The theory of yarn hairiness composition was also developed further. The effect of draft ratio and spindle speed on the hairiness of worsted wool yarn was examined next with a factorial experiment design. Several new hairiness indexes, namely the relative hairiness indexes, have been used to explain the results obtained. In the investigation of the hairiness of newly developed yarns, the hairiness of the Compact Spun and Roller-Jet-Spun yarns was examined first. The composition of the yarn hairiness, the hair-length distribution, and the effect of test speed on yarn hairiness were then studied. An important finding is that for both yarns, the predominant hairiness feature is the looped hairs. A comparison of the hairiness of Solospun yarns and the equivalent ring spun wool yarns was undertaken. The hair-length distribution of the Solospun yarn was examined first. The Solospun yarns used had fewer hairs in most hair-length groups and lower variations in hairiness. In addition, the effect of twist level and spindle speed on the hairiness of Solospun and conventional ring spun yarns has also been discussed. A novel approach of reducing yarn hairiness – spinning with a ‘Diagonal’ yarn path was examined next. Both ‘Left Diagonal’ and ‘Right Diagonal’ yarn arrangements were studied. A new finding is that the ‘Right Diagonal’ yarn path leads to reduced hairiness for the Z-twist yarn, while yarn evenness and tenacity are not as sensitive to the modified yarn path. The mechanism of hairiness reduction with the ‘Diagonal’ yarn path has been discussed. The spinning performance of “Right Diagonal” yarn arrangement has also been evaluated. Finally, the effect of yarn hairiness on the energy consumption in ring spinning has been investigated theoretically and experimentally. A theoretical model has been developed, which represents the first attempt at theoretically investigating the influence of yarn hairiness on energy consumption during the winding stage of ring spinning. The experimental results have generally confirmed predictions of this model. Recommendations for further research in this area have also been made in the concluding chapter of this thesis.

Role of water and surfactant in the solvent milling of wool

Unlike other fibres, wool felts readily when agitated in the presence of water. For this reason, only the minimum necessary quantity of water is used when the garments are drycleaned. However, wool fibres are often deliberately felted to obtain a warm bulky handle by controlled addition of water to the solvent. This process is known as solvent milling and recently, it has become a popular alternative to the traditional milling in water alone. Although the factors which influence milling in solvent are known, the relationships between them are not well defined. A comprehensive study of the relationship between water distribution and milling shrinkage during agitation of wool in perchloroethylene has been carried out in this thesis. The Karl Fischer method of determination was used throughout to establish the distribution of water between the wool fibre and the solvent liquor. The emphasis was placed on practical production variables. The role of surfactant in affecting milling shrinkage through its effect on the transport of water to the fibre from the solvent was examined. The ability of a suitable surfactant in promoting even and rapid sorption of water by the fibre was related to the colloidal properties of the milling liquor.