Bamboo fibres and their unique properties

This paper collates the different properties of bamboo fibres as claimed by bamboo fibre and product manufacturers. The available information suggests that bamboo fibres have unique properties such as excellent appearance and feel, natural antibacterial, UV-shielding and moisture-controlling characteristics. Hence bamboo fibres provide a very promising alternative to other natural fibres by virtue of their novel properties. However, those properties may largely depend on the manufacturing process, which is not widely disclosed. Moreover, common manufacturing process may require the use of a large amount of chemicals and hence further process development may be required in order to make the product truly eco-friendly. It is identified that the data of those unique properties rarely appear in scientific journals and the validity of those claims can be speculative. Therefore, there is a strong need for non-biased scientific research and evaluation on the unique properties of bamboo fibres.

New methods for objective evaluation of fabric pilling by frequency domain image processing

Fabric pilling is a serious problem for the apparel industry. Resistance to pilling is normally tested by simulated accelerated wear and manual assessment of degree of pilling based on a visual comparison of the sample to a set of test images. A number of automated systems based on image analysis have been developed. The authors propose new methods of image analysis based on the two-dimensional wavelet transform to objectively measure the pilling intensity in sample images. Initial work employed the detail coefficients of the two-dimensional discrete wavelet transform (2DDWT) as a measure of the pilling intensity of woven/knitted fabrics.

This method is shown to be robust to image translation and brightness variation. Using the approximation coefficients of the 2DDWT, the method is extended to non-woven pilling image sets. Wavelet texture analysis (WTA) combined with principal components analysis are shown to produce a richer texture description of pilling for analysis and classification. Finally, employing the two-dimensional dual-tree complex wavelet transform as the basis for the WTA feature vector is shown to produce good automated classification on a range of standard pilling image sets.

Mechanical behaviour of irregular fibre materials

This work investigates the effect of fibre irregularities on the mechanical behaviour of the irregular fibres using the finite element method (FEM). The first part of this work examines that the effect of fibre dimensional irregularities on the linear and non-linear tensile behaviour of the fibres, using a two-dimensional (2D) finite element models. In the linear simulation, a concept of method Young’s modulus is introduced. The method Young’s modulus, breaking load and breaking extension are affected by the magnitude and frequency of diameter variation in the fibre specimen. Fibre dimensional variation and the gauge length effect are also simulated. In the non-linear analysis, some additional information is obtained on changes in the yield and post-yield regions, which are clearly shown in the load-extension curves. Further investigation is focused on the flexural buckling behaviour of fibres with dimensional irregularities. A three-dimensional (3D) finite element model is used to simulate the buckling deformation of dimensionally irregular fibres, and the critical buckling load of the simulated fibre is calculated. Two parameters, the effective length and the average diameter within the effective length of an irregular fibre, are considered to be the key factors that influence the buckling behaviour of the fibre. An important aspect of this work is the calculation of the effective length of an irregular fibre specimen during buckling. This method has not been reported before. The third part of this work is on the combined tensile and torsional behaviour of fibres with dimensional irregularities, using a three-dimensional (3D) finite element model. Two types of fibres, polyester and wool, are simulated with sine waves of different level (magnitude) and frequency at different twist levels. For the polyester fibre, experiment verification of the simulation results has been carried out, and the results indicate the FE model is well acceptable for the simulation. The final part of this work examines the combined effect of dimensional and structural irregularities on the fibre tensile behaviour. Three-dimensional (3D) finite element models are used to simulate the cracks (transverse, longitudinal, combined transverse and longitudinal cracks) and cavities distributed in uniform fibres and fibres with 30% level of diameter variation, respectively. One of important conclusions is that under the simulated conditions, the dimensional irregularity of fibre influences the tensile behaviour of fibres more than the fibre structural irregularity. The fibre dimensional irregularity affects not only the values of the breaking load and breaking extension, but also the shape of load-extension curves. However, the fibre structural irregularity simulated in the study appears to have little effect on the shape of the load-extension curves. In addition, the effect of crack or cavity size, type and distribution on fibre tensile properties is also investigated.

Inclusive schooling : contexts, texts and politics

The title ‘Inclusive schooling: contexts, texts and politics’, names a thesis which critically analyses the development of inclusive schooling in the small Australian Island state of Tasmania between 1996 and 1998. The ‘Inclusion of Students with Disabilities’ policy, introduced in 1995 by the Tasmanian Department of Education, Community and Cultural Development, provides an opportunity to understand the cultural context and politics of change in schooling over this period. The qualitative methodology deployed here is informed by poststructuralism and captures the everyday experiences of university teaching as a research site. The teacher/researcher as the visible maker of the research use metaphors of fibre and textile practice, techniques of textual juxtaposition and her positioned subjectivity as a female academic to tell a 'big story'. The researcher develops a 'double method' as a possible model for Inclusive research practice and educational policy analysis. Using a critical ethnographic method, derived from the work of Carspecken (1996), 'data stories' (Lather & Smithies 1997, p.34) are produced from the narratives of five key informants – a parent, two teachers, a policy-maker and the researcher. Assembled as the data of the thesis the multi-voiced texts provide an account of the sociocultural, professional and systemic context of Inclusive schooling over a three-year period. In the analysis these data are interpreted from a feminist poststructural standpoint. A deconstructuive reading of the data stories interprets the discourse of inclusive schooling emphasising the dominant foundation of the special education knowledge tradition. The idea of author function (after Foucault 1975, 1984b and Grundy and Hatton 1995) is used to interpret the 'texts' of the key Informants as discursive constructions. The researcher theorises inclusive schooling as an entangled, multiple and contradictory discourse, embedded in the social, cultural and material contexts, rather than a singular unitary Idea of the progress within the special education knowledge tradition. The study contributes a fine-grained analysis of the constructed knowledge of inclusive schooling in one locality. The thesis advocates continuing engagement with questions of epistemology and social transformation in inclusive schooling, rather than persisting with technical rationality and the status quo. The researcher takes the position that the opportunities to theorise inclusive schooling lie within the multiple and disparate constructed texts of the micro world of everyday practice and the macro understanding of understandings of contemporary social justice. The poststructuralist writing/reading questions traditionalist theorising in the special education field. Central to the negotiations of power and truth inclusive schooling research and practice is a communicative theory that transforms populist conceptions of inclusion.

Tensile behaviour of non-uniform fibres and fibrous composites

This work investigates the tensile behaviour of non-uniform fibres and fibrous composites. Wool fibres are used as an example of non-uniform fibres because they're physical, morphological and geometrical properties vary greatly not only between fibres but also within a fibre. The focus of this work is on the effect of both between-fibre and within-fibre diameter variations on fibre tensile behaviour. In addition, fit to the Weibull distribution by the non-brittle and non-uniform visco-elastic wool fibres is examined, and the Weibull model is developed further for non-uniform fibres with diameter variation along the fibre length. A novel model fibre composite is introduced to facilitate the investigation into the tensile behaviour of fibre-reinforced composites. This work first confirms that for processed wool, its coefficient of variation in break force can be predicted from that of minimum fibre diameters, and the prediction is better for longer fibres. This implies that even for processed wool, fibre breakage is closely associated with the occurrence of thin sections along a fibre, and damage to fibres during processing is not the main cause of fibre breakage. The effect of along-fibre diameter variation on fibre tensile behaviour of scoured wool and mohair is examined next. Only wet wool samples were examined in the past. The extensions of individual segments of single non-uniform fibres are measured at different strain levels. An important finding is the maximum extension (%) (Normally at the thinnest section) equals the average fibre extension (%) plus the diameter variation (CV %) among the fibre segments. This relationship has not been reported before. During a tensile test, it is only the average fibre extension that is measured. The third part of this work is on the applicability of Weibull distribution to the strength of non-uniform visco-elastic wool fibres. Little work has been done for wool fibres in this area, even though the Weibull model has been widely applied to many brittle fibres. An improved Weibull model incorporating within-fibre diameter variations has been developed for non-uniform fibres. This model predicts the gauge length effect more accurately than the conventional Weibull model. In studies of fibre-reinforced composites, ideal composite specimens are usually prepared and used in the experiments. Sample preparation has been a tedious process. A novel fibre reinforced composite is developed and used in this work to investigate the tensile behaviour of fibre-reinforced composites. The results obtained from the novel composite specimen are consistent with that obtained from the normal specimens.

Nano related research in fibres and textiles

With the increasing hype surrounding what nanotechnology can actually deliver, research emphasis in this area needs to be placed on how nanotechnology can bring tangible benefits to existing industries and ordinary consumers. This paper gives selected examples of real world applications of nano-structured materials, including nano fibrous and particulate materials. It reviews recent research into nano-structured surface coating of textile substrates for enhanced functionalities, and the development of fine and uniform nanofibres for advanced applications. Emphasis has been placed on relevant research activities in the Centre for Material and Fibre Innovation at Deakin University, Australia. In the nano-structured surface coating area, several examples of enhancing fabric performance and functionality are provided, including silica coating for photochromic textiles, superhydrophobic surface coating and transparent ZnO coating to reduce colour fading of textiles exposed to UV radiation. In the nanofibre area, these activities include: elimination of beaded fibres without increasing the average diameter of the electrospun nanofibres, electrospinning of side-by-side bi-component nanofibres, new insight into the evolution of fibre morphology in electrospinning and the electrospinning technology itself.

Feature extraction for animal fiber identification

Fiber identification has been a very important task in many industries such as wool growing, textile processing, archaeology, histochernical engineering, and zoology. Over the years, animal fibers have been identified using physical and chemical approaches. Recently, objective identification of animal fibers has been developed based on the cuticular information of fibers. Effective and accurate extraction of representative features is essential to animal fiber identification and classification. In the current work, two different strategies are developed for this purpose. In the first method, explicit features are extracted using image processing. However, only implicit features are used in the second method with an unsupervised artificial neural network. It is found that the use of explicit features increases the accuracy of fiber identification but requires more effort on processing images and solid knowledge of what features are representative ones.

Wear attributes of cashmere single jersey knitted fabrics blended with high and low crimp superfine merino wool

In a replicated experiment, we investigated the impact of cashmere in blends with superfine wools on the wear attributes of single jersey knitted fabrics. We also investigated the relative performance of low crimp/low fiber curvature superfine wool when compared with cashmere and also when compared with traditional high crimp/high fiber curvature superfine wool in pure and blended knitted fabrics. Wool type, blend ratio and fabric structure affected fabric air permeability, resistance to pilling and change in appearance, relaxation shrinkage, hygral expansion, and dimensional stability during laundering. The responses to variation in fiber crimp were much greater than previously reported. The fabric properties of low crimp wool differed significantly from those made from high crimp wool, and low crimp wool fabric properties differed significantly from, but were closer to, the fabric properties of cashmere, compared with high curvature wool.

Polymer coatings containing nano particles of zinc oxide for the UV protection of dyed polyester fabrics

The useful life of many outdoor textile products is limited by degradation caused by exposure to sunlight, in particular by the ultra violet component (below 400 nm). The degradation results in fading of colours and also loss of physical properties, such as tear strength and abrasion resistance. Degradation can be decreased with UV absorbers, often used in conjunction with antioxidants or free radical quenchers. The protection afforded by these organic compounds is, however, limited as they are ultimately destroyed by the UV radiation they absorb.
An alternative approach is to coat fabrics with a polymer containing an inorganic UV absorber, such as zinc oxide. The inherent stability of zinc oxide would be expected to provide a protective effect over a much longer period than can be achieved with an organic UV absorber. A possible disadvantage of zinc oxide when applied in a polymer film is that absorption and scattering of visible light can produce hazy films and, hence, an unacceptable change in fabric appearance.
This poster paper examines the possibility of using nano particles of zinc oxide dispersed in acrylic polymers for protecting dyed polyester fabrics against sunlight fading. Factors affecting both UV absorbance and film clarity will be discussed. The possibility will also be examined that the protective effect may be reduced in some circumstances by reactive oxygen species, generated by the interaction of UV with zinc oxide in the presence of air and water.