A comparison of the ICI Pillbox and the Random Tumble Methods is assessing pilling and appearance change of worsted spun cashmere and cashmere-wool blend knitwear

This study evaluated the differences between two international test methods on the assessment of pilling and appearance change of worsted spun cashmere and superfine wool knitwear and their blends. Differences between the standard ICI Pill Box Method and the Random Tumble Method were found in both the significance and magnitude of resistance to pilling and appearance change and the amount of fabric mass loss of worsted spun cashmere and cashmere superfine wool blend knit fabrics. The ICI Pill Box Method differentiated to a greater extent the effects of wool type and blend ratio of cashmere and wool compared with the Random Tumble Method. Generally the addition of cashmere or low crimp superfine wool resulted in fabrics being more resistance to pilling and appearance change compared with fabrics made from high crimp superfine wool. This was associated with increased fabric mass loss when assessed by the ICI Pill Box Method but not with the Random Tumble Method. KEYWORDS: Cashmere, crimp, wool, pilling, appearance change, knitwear

Processing and quality of cashmere tops for ultra-fine wool worsted blend fabrics

This study has focussed on three main areas. First, an evaluation of the physical attributes of cashmere tops available to commercial spinners; second, the influence of processing variables on the efficiency of producing cashmere tops from raw Australian cashmere; and third, the influence of design of cashmere ultrafine wool blends on the fibre curvature of tops. Testing the physical attributes of cashmere tops from traditional and new sources of supply, was followed by statistical analyses based on factors of origin, processor and other determinants. The analyses demonstrated important processor effects and also that cashmere from different origins shows commercially important variations in fibre attributes. It was possible to efficiently produce Australian cashmere tops with Hauteur, tenacity, extension, softness and residual guard hairs quality attributes equivalent to those observed in the best cashmere tops. The blending of cashmere with wool resulted in a reduction of the mean fibre curvature of the blend compared with the unblended wool. The present work demonstrated that the fibre curvature properties of blended low crimp ultrafine wool tops were closer to the properties of pure cashmere tops than were tops made from blended standard high crimp ultrafine wool. The attributes of textiles made from the relatively rare Australian low curvature cashmere could enhance the marketability of both Australian cashmere and low curvature wool.

The effect of pH on wool fiber diameter and fabric dimensions

Wool fabrics are often treated under conditions of varying pH in dyeing and finishing processes. It is known that in air the dimensions of wool fabrics change with the amount of fiber swelling at different regain. In this work, it has been shown that a similar relationship between fiber swelling and fabric dimensions existed in water at different pH values. The diameters of Merino and Corriedale wool fibers in water at different pH values were measured with an OFDA 2000 fiber diameter analyzer, fitted with a specially constructed accessory liquid cell. The results showed that the mean diameters of swollen wool fibers in water varied with pH. Minimum swelling was obtained in the range pH 5-7. It was found that the dimensions of wool fabric in water were dependent on the pH. The changes in fiber diameter in water could be attributed to changes in ionic interactions between charged acid and basic groups in wool protein with variations in pH.

The characterization and chemical reactivity of powdered wool

Wool powders with various particle sizes have been produced using different milling techniques. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) showed gradual breakdown of the fibre as it was progressively converted into powder form. Chlorination enhanced the effectiveness of subsequent air-jet milling. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) revealed an increase in the surface concentrations of oxygen and nitrogen, and a decrease in carbon and sulphur on conversion of the fibres into powders, as the cortex became exposed on the powder surface. An increased surface concentration of cysteic acid was observed for the chlorinated powder. Rapid uptake of dye by wool powders was observed in situations where there was virtually no uptake by the original fibre. Hydrophobic dyes were more readily sorbed than were hydrophilic dyes. The chlorination treatment led to a decrease in the sorption of acid dyes. Confocal microscopy, used in conjunction with a fluorescent stain, showed that chemicals were able to penetrate wool particles, even at room temperature. The rate and extent of uptake of dye by the finer powders were comparable to that obtained with activated charcoal, even though the surface area of the charcoal was 100 times greater.

Wear attributes of cashmere single jersey knitted fabrics blended with high and low crimp superfine merino wool

In a replicated experiment, we investigated the impact of cashmere in blends with superfine wools on the wear attributes of single jersey knitted fabrics. We also investigated the relative performance of low crimp/low fiber curvature superfine wool when compared with cashmere and also when compared with traditional high crimp/high fiber curvature superfine wool in pure and blended knitted fabrics. Wool type, blend ratio and fabric structure affected fabric air permeability, resistance to pilling and change in appearance, relaxation shrinkage, hygral expansion, and dimensional stability during laundering. The responses to variation in fiber crimp were much greater than previously reported. The fabric properties of low crimp wool differed significantly from those made from high crimp wool, and low crimp wool fabric properties differed significantly from, but were closer to, the fabric properties of cashmere, compared with high curvature wool.

Assessment of the pilling propensity of wool knitwear

This study addresses a major issue facing the wool industry - the formation of entangled fibres or pills on wool knitwear. By examining the factors that contribute to the inconsistent pilling results, ways of improving the test procedures have been identified. This will have practical implications for the textile industry.

Photochromic wool fabric by sol-gel coating

This thesis investigates the possibility of producing photochromic wool fabrics using a silica sol-gel coating method. Silicas made from sol-gel methods are uniquely suited to host photochromic dyes for developing colour-changing wool. The achieved photochromic effects have opened a new product area for fashion effects on wool textiles.