215 resultados para Fabric


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Gaining and maintaining organizational legitimacy can be a major issue
for social and political structures such as cultural organizations. Legitimacy, sometimes called credibility, brings with it access to resources needed for survival and development. Organizations without legitimacy tend not to be successful in attracting grants, subsidies, and sponsorships. Research suggests that legitimate organizations may be seen as valuable social structures (Hybels 1995; Suchman 1995) and come to be “taken for granted” as part of the social fabric. In this article, I explore organizational legitimacy using the framework of institutional theory. I first define legitimacy and then discuss the key concepts of organizational legitimacy. Next, I present a case study based on an art/craft/design school. The school, known as the Bauhaus, existed between 1919 and 1933 in three German cities—Weimar, Dessau, and Berlin. Deterministic views of the pre–World War II environment suggest that the Nazi party was responsible for the closure of the Bauhaus. I argue that other factors were apparent. The Nazi regime was becoming a significant force in the late 1920s, but the story of the Bauhaus becomes more complex when viewed under the rubric of arts management and organizational legitimacy. In this article, I discuss how the Bauhaus sought and managed legitimacy and the role that the state and other actors played in granting that legitimacy. In conclusion, I offer a summary of the relevance of legitimacy to contemporary arts organizations.

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The dielectric characteristics of conducting polymer-coated textiles in the frequency range 1–18 GHz were investigated using a non-contact, non-destructive free space technique. Polypyrrole coatings were applied by solution polymerization on fabric substrates using a range of concentrations of para-toluene-2-sulfonic acid (pTSA) as dopant and ferric chloride as oxidant. The conducting polymer coatings exhibited dispersive permittivity behaviour with a decrease in real and imaginary components of complex permittivity as frequency increased in the range tested. Both the permittivity and the loss factor were affected by the polymerization time of the conductive coating. It was found that the total shielding efficiency of these conductive fabrics is significant at short polymerization times and increases to values exceeding 80% with longer polymerization times. The reflection contribution to electromagnetic shielding also increases with polymerization time.


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This work investigates the application of artificial neural network modeling (ANN) to model the relationships between fiber, yarn, and fabric properties and the pilling propensity of single jersey and rib pure wool knitted fabrics based on the ICI Pilling Box method. Validation of the model on an independent validation data set suggests that the accurate prediction of pilling propensity is possible with the best performing model achieving a correlation with the subjectively rated pilling grades of approximately 85%. Importantly, it is also illustrated that a larger training set can lead to a marked improvement in the accuracy of predictions.

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In a four-step method starting from pyrrole, the synthesis of 3-iso-butylpyrrole and 3-iso-pentylpyrrole, was achieved in 45 and 44% yields, respectively. Polymerization studies of these branched alkyl pyrroles are described and the results compared with those obtained for the unbranched structural isomers n-butyl and n-pentylpyrrole. A series of conductive textiles were produced by the chemical polymerization of the iso-alkylpyrroles using both solution and vapour polymerization techniques. Fabrics coated with poly-iso-alkylpyrrole formed using the solution polymerization method had a lower surface resistance than those formed using the vapour polymerization method. These conductivity results were in direct contrast to those previously obtained for 3-n-alkylpyrroles on fabrics. A remarkable crystal-like growth on the surface of the textile fabric was observed when solution polymerization of 3-iso-pentylpyrrole was employed—reinforcing the notion that subtle changes in monomer structure can drastically affect bulk polymer properties.

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The Tonic Sol-fa method of teaching singing was developed in England by John Curwen over a period of forty years from the 1840s until the 1870s. Although originally an aid to reading staff notation, the J 872 Standard Course saw staff notation dispensed with altogether in favour of its own notational system. By the end of the century it had spread from Britain to Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Canada, the United States, India, China, Japan and the Pacific Islands. However, largely due to its notational isolation, Tonic Sol-fa declined markedly during the early twentieth century. Except for the incorporation of certain aspects into the Kodaly method, it has largely disappeared from contemporary music teaching practice. Surprisingly, however, Tonic Sol-fa in its nineteenth century form is presently "alive and well" in certain developing countries in Africa, Asia and the Pacific. This paper will present an analysis of Tonic Sol-fa and evaluate its characteristics in terms of contemporary pedagogical and notational theory. The paper will then report on the current use of Tonic Sol-fa in developing countries and it will be argued that, in certain of these countries, this nineteenth century teaching method and notational system has not only survived but has indeed flourished. It will be argued that, in at least one case, Tonic Sol-fa has been "indiginised" so that it has not only become an integral part of the musical culture but also has become part of the social fabric of the country. The case will be put for a revival of Tonic Sol-fa in developing countries where, for social, economic and educational reasons, an alternative model to that utilised in more highly developed countries may be more successful/ in promoting school and community choral music.

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EGovernance is fast becoming a focal issue with governments worldwide, enabled by the ICT revolution. Many economies are adopting eGovernance as a medium of reaching out and empowering the average citizen, stretching tax revenues and cutting down transaction costs. In this paper, we have examined Germany and India, two disparate economies in terms of development yet similar in administrative structures against a backdrop of insightful socio-economic fabric. We have taken a positivist approach and used the exploratory research method, supported by the transaction cost economic theory to draw broad conclusions on similarities and differences in eGovernance adoption, within these economies.

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By coating textiles with electrically conductive organic polymers, we are able to produce functional, intelligent fabrics. These fabrics can be utilised in applications such as gas sensors, actuators, electromagnetic shielding, radar absorption, selected frequency filtering in indoor wireless applications, and heating applications where vital parts of the body can be heated without embedding any wiring through the fabric.

Heat generation in fabrics coated with the conductive polymer polypyrrole was investigated. The fabrics were coated by chemical synthesis methods by oxidizing the pyrrole monomer in the presence of the fabric substrate. Ferric chloride was selected as the oxidizing agent and anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid (AQSA) sodium salt monohydrate as the dopant.

Conductive fabrics were characterized by resistivity measurements, scanning electron microscopy, thermal imaging, current transmission over a period of time and calculations of power density per unit area. Effects of reaction conditions on the electrical properties and heat generated are presented. Polypyrrole coated fabrics were stable and possessed high electrical conductivity. Resistivity values ranged from 100-500 ohms/square depending on the reaction parameters. When subjected to a constant voltage of 24V, the polypyrrole coated polyester-Lycra® fabric doped with AQSA reached a maximum temperature of 42°C and a power density per unit area of 430 W/m2 was achieved.

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Fabric pilling is a serious problem for the apparel industry, causing an unsightly appearance and premature wear. Woolen products are particularly prone to pilling. Recently, a process for production of woolen nonwoven apparel fabrics has been commercialized in Australia, and may lead to new markets for Australian wool. However, the success of such nonwoven fabrics will partly rely on their propensity to pill. A key element in the control of fabric pilling is the evaluation of resistance to pilling by testing. Resistance to pilling is normally tested in the laboratory by processes that simulate accelerated wear, followed by a manual assessment of the degree of pilling by an expert based on a visual comparison of the sample to a set of test images. To bring more objectivity into the pilling rating process, a number of automated systems based on image analysis have been developed. The authors previously proposed a new method of image analysis based on the two-dimensional discrete wavelet transform to objectively measure the pilling intensity for woven fabrics. This paper presents preliminary work in extending this method to nonwoven fabrics.

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Performance of advanced fabric energy storage systems has not been reported for Australian conditions. The influence pf slab thickness and air flow rate on the annual thermal load, and maximum heating and cooling demands for a typical office module using a ventilated hollow core concrete slab system has been investigated by simulation. Performance results for Melbourne are presented and comments made on other locations.

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Identical single jersey wool knit fabrics produced inconsistent results when tested on the same type of ICI pill box in 4 independence testing laboratories.  The hypothesis formulated to investigate this event was that continued pilling testing in the ICI pill box changes the frictional properties of the cork liners, resulting in the difference pilling ratings.  The aim of this study was to decrease the inconsistencies in the pilling results by replacing the conventional cork lined pill box with a PerspexTM pill box.  The smae or similar pilling results found for several of the knit facots tested in the two difference pill boxes, while for others there were some significant differences found.  In addition, while using the PerspexTM pill box observations of the movement of the pilling tubes during testing provided evidence of greater fabric-to-fabric abrasion, rather the expected high degree of fabric-to-cork abrasion (or fabric-to-PerspexTM) during pilling testing.

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Unlike other technology, lCT has the tremendous capacity to eliminate various social and economic barriers impeding the poor, helping them discover their potential. Wider access and use of lCT can improve social networks and increase civic engagement, thereby improving social fabric and developing social capital. Thus, scholars now have realized lCT plays a primary role in the formation and maintenance of social network. This paper identifies microfinance programs as an agent with unparalleled capacity to facilitate access to lCT and thus the formation of social capital and socio-economic development of the poor. In this paper, we also discuss the role of MFls in developing social capital in
South Asia and present an analytical model of how the intervention of microfinance can facilitate access to lCT by the poor with the result of an improved both socio-economic situation and social capital.

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Energy efficient office buildings are intended to provide a comfortable and healthy environment for their occupants as well as reducing the energy consumption of the building. They are often designed as "showcase" buildings illustrating the potential for savings through some innovative design technology. But do such buildings actually deliver the desired energy savings and satisfactory comfort conditions for occupants? Measurements of a "green" University campus building in Victoria, Australia, designed with an innovative fabric energy storage system, demonstrate that the ventilation system is not providing acceptable indoor air quality conditions. The design strategies used to reduce energy consumption have had negative consequences on the air quality of the building. Insufficient fresh air is being drawn into the building leading to an excessive build up of carbon dioxide. It is recommended that monitoring systems need to use a wider range of measurements than temperature alone to guarantee good quality indoor air and working conditions and that commissioning of buildings should include adequate monitoring of the operational performance of the building. Designers need to be made aware of the potential consequences of their decisions when attempting innovative energy-efficient designs.

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Nearly all discourses on migration (to my knowledge) emphasise that the migrant is not so much a traveller, but a figure oriented towards settlement and a particular destination. Discourses on migration have attended more to the process and site of ‘arrival’, and few studies have focused on the process and site of ‘departure’. However, central to the thesis of this paper would be the testimony of two migrant houses – one in the city of  immigration (Melbourne, Australia), and the other in the village of emigration (Zavoj in Macedonia). The focus will be on the Zavoj house as a significant house, a house that points to a thesis about how architecture makes explicit other processes of migration, namely that of ‘return’. Here there are several intertwined communities and nations, and also different notions of community and nation. It has been noted that ‘diaspora’ is constituted through longer distances, severe separation, and a taboo on return. And yet implicit in many more ‘autobiographical’ accounts is that one only leaves with a promise to return. The conflict and question of ‘return’ is at the centre of the migrant’s imaginary. A study of the two houses of migration implicates a set of networks, forces, relations, circumscribing a much larger global geopolitical and cultural field that questions our understandings of diaspora, the currency of transnationalism, the binary structure of dwelling/travelling, and the fabric and fabrication of community. But the study goes inwards and underneath as well through the figure of the migrant, the figure through which the two migrant houses are deeply associated. The paper will explore the subjective nature of the thesis, the idea of a ‘migrant house’ as an imaginary architecture, a psychic geography, an imaginary community and sense of nationhood.

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An objective pilling evaluation method based on the multi-scale two-dimensional dual-tree complex wavelet transform and linear discriminant function of Bayes' Rule was developed. The surface fuzz and pills are identified from the high-frequency noise, fabric textures, fabric surface unevenness, and illuminative variation of a pilled fabric image by the two-dimensional dual-tree complex wavelet decomposition and reconstruction. The energies of the reconstructed subimages in six spatial orientations (±15º, ±45º, ±75º) are calculated as the elements of the pilling feature vector, whose dimension is reduced by principal component analysis. A linear discriminant function of Bayes' Rule was used as a classifier to establish classification rules among the five pilling grades. A new pilled sample with the same physical construction can then be automatically assigned to one of the five pilling grades by the classification rules. A general evaluation of the proposed method was conducted using the SM50 woven, non-woven, and SM54 knitted standard pilling test image sets. The results suggest that the new method can successfully establish classification rules among the five pilling grade groups for each of the three standard pilling test image sets and should be applicable to practical objective pilling evaluation.

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In this work, a photochromic wool fabric has been prepared by applying a photochromic-dye hybrid silica sol-gel onto the surface of fabric. The photochromic fabric was found to have a very quick optical response. Two types of silica were used as the matrix material, and the type of silica had a small effect only on the photochromic performance, the fabric washing fastness, and water contact angle, but affected the fabric handle property considerably. The silica from a precursor containing a long alkyl chain showed very little influence on the fabric handle and better photochromic performance than that containing a phenyl group.