A comparative study on accelerated weathering tests of wool fabrics

This work has used two lightboxes with Philips 500 W MBTF lamps for a comparative trial on the photoyellowing evaluation of untreated wool fabrics under dry and wet conditions. An investigation was made to account for different trends of photoyellowing of the same wool fabric when irradiated by the two lightboxes. The fabric specimens irradiated in one lamp experienced increasing yellowing with irradiation time while specimens from the same wool fabric but irradiated under the other lamp manifested no noticeable color change. These differences are attributed to the susceptibility of wool to small spectral differences between the two MBTF lamps. Furthermore, the color fading results obtained from the commonly used blue wool standard (BWS) references from L1 to L3 show that these reference materials could not effectively reveal changes caused by the spectral differences in two MBTF lamps. These results have important implications for conducting accelerated weathering tests on spectrum-sensitive textile materials, and considerable care should be taken when using BWSs to ensure reliable and consistent irradiation results.

Characterization of hot-pressed films from superfine wool powder

In this study, superfine wool powder was plasticized with glycerol and hot-pressed into a film. Scanning electron microscopy photos showed that the superfine wool powder could be molded into a smooth film and that the wool powder was distributed evenly in the cross section of the film. Fourier transform infrared analysis revealed no substantial changes in the chemical structure of the wool powder after hot pressing, but the absorbing peaks of glycerol were found in the spectrum. X-ray diffraction analysis showed that the overall crystallinity increased after the wool powder was hot-pressed into film. Thermogravimetry (TG) analysis indicated that the thermal stability of the hot-pressed film decreased. A transition point appeared in the TG curve of the wool hot-pressed film as glycerol was added. The differential thermal analysis curve of the film showed sharp absorbing peaks similar to that of wool powder. With increasing glycerol content, the film showed increasing ductility and softness.

One-bath union dyeing of wool/polytrimethylene terephthalate blends

The one-bath dyeing of blends of polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) staple and wool has been investigated. The exhaustion of selected Terasil disperse dyes on PTT fibre and Lanasol reactive dyes on wool was measured as a function of temperature, together with the cross-staining of the Terasil dyes on the wool component and the Lanasol dyes on PTT component. Most Terasil disperse dyes achieved satisfactory dye uptake on PTT at 110 °C, whereas on conventional polyester (polyethylene terephthalate) temperatures of up to 130 °C are required. An optimised union-dyeing technique for wool/PTT blends was developed which minimised the staining of Terasil disperse dyes on wool and produced dyed goods with high levels of wet colour fastness. Carriers were not required to enhance the dyeability of PTT at low temperatures. The wool component appeared to be protected against damage at 110 °C by the reactive dyes. The results indicate the potential for blending PTT fibre and wool to produce fabrics that are easier to dye at lower temperatures than conventional wool/polyester blends.

Bleaching and dyeing of superfine wool powder/polypropylene blend film

Fibers based regenerated protein draw much attention for recycling discarded protein resources and can produce biodegradable and environmental friendly polymers. In this study, superfine wool powder is blended with polypropylene (PP) to produce wool powder/PP blend film through extrusion and hot-pressing. Hydrogen peroxide is used to bleach the black colored surface of the blend films. The effects of peroxide concentration, bleaching time and powder content on the final whiteness and mechanical properties of the blend films are investigated.

The bleached films are dyed with acid red dyes and the dyed color is evaluated using a Computer Color Matching System. Color characters of dyed films, such as L*, a*, b*, ΔE*ab, C*ab and K/S values are measured and analyzed. The study not only reuses discarded wool resources into organic powder, widens the application of superfine wool powder on polymers, but also improves the dyeing properties of PP through the addition of protein content.

Photochromic coloration of wool fabric

A method has been developed for producing photochromic wool fabric by applying a layer of hybrid silica containing a photochromic dye onto wool fibres. A number of different hybrid silicas were prepared by the sol-gel technique involving co-hydrolysis and co-condensation of alkyltrialkoxysilanes together with 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane. With the dye Photorome II, it was possible to obtain a photo chromic coating which showed fast optical response. The coating had only a slight effect on the fabric handle. The durability of the coating appeared to be acceptable, at least for fashion wear.

Identification of cashmere and superfine merino wool with wavelet texture analysis

This paper presents the use of the wavelet transform to extract fibre surface texture features for classifying cashmere and superfine merino wool fibres. To extract features from brightness variations caused by the cuticular scale height, shape and interval provides an effective way for characterising different animal fibres and subsequently classifying them. This may enable the development of a completely automated and objective system for animal fibre
identification.

An artificial neural network-based hairiness prediction model for worsted wool yarns

This study evaluated the performance of multilayer perceptron (MLP) and multivariate linear regression (MLR) models for predicting the hairiness of worsted-spun wool yarns from various top, yarn and processing parameters. The results indicated that the MLP model predicted yarn hairiness more accurately than the MLR model, and should have wide mill specific applications. On the basis of sensitivity analysis, the factors that affected yarn hairiness significantly included yarn twist, ring size, average fiber length (hauteur), fiber diameter and yarn count, with twist having the greatest impact on yarn hairiness.

The limiting irregularity of single wool fibers

Fiber irregularity affects fiber mechanical properties. This study has, for the first time, introduced the concept of limiting irregularity to single wool fibers. The limiting irregularity is the minimum variation in fiber cross sectional area that can be expected of a single wool fiber, assuming a random length-wise distribution of its constituent cortical cells. Cortical cells were extracted from merino wool fibers and their dimensions were measured from SEM images to calculate their cross sectional area variations both between cortical cells and within cortical cells, and to work out the average number of cortical cells in the cross section of wool fibers of a given diameter. Single wool fibers were also measured at 5 µm interval along length for fiber diameter variations. These variations were found to be larger than that based on fiber limiting irregularity.

Effects of leveling agent on the uptake of reactive dyes by untreated and plasma-treated wool

Atmospheric-pressure plasma treatment of wool fabric produced a significantly higher level of adsorbed fiber-reactive dye when applied at 50 °C (pH 3.0–6.0) in the absence of any organic leveling agent. In addition, color yields indicated that dye was more uniformly adsorbed by the plasma-treated fabric compared with the untreated material. When untreated fabric was dyed in the presence of a leveling agent (Albegal B), the extent and levelness of dye sorption were enhanced. These enhancements were, however, relatively small on the plasma-treated wool compared with those on untreated wool. A ‘surface’ mechanism, similar to that proposed when plasma-treated wool is dyed in the absence of leveling agent, can explain the leveling ability of Albegal B under adsorption conditions. Increasing the dyebath temperature to 90 °C resulted in dye penetration of the fibers. Under these conditions, any enhancements of dye uptake produced by the plasma treatment, as well as the use of Albegal B, were relatively small, in contrast to the behavior at 50 °C. Improvements in the uniformity of dye sorption observed at 50 °C were, however, maintained at the higher temperature. It is concluded that the inability of reactive dyes to migrate (and so promote leveling and uniformity) once they have reacted with the fiber, means that differences in the uniformity of dye sorbed at 50 °C are still apparent at equilibrium.

Effects of plasma treatment of wool on the uptake of sulfonated dyes with different hydrophobic properties

A wool fabric has been subjected to an atmospheric-pressure treatment with a helium plasma for 30 seconds. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry confirmed removal of the covalently-bound fatty acid layer (F-layer) from the surface of the wool fibers, resulting in exposure of the underlying, hydrophilic protein material. Dye uptake experiments were carried out at 50 ºC to evaluate the effects of plasma on the rate of dye uptake by the fiber surface, as well as give an indication of the adsorption characteristics in the early stages of a typical dyeing cycle. The dyes used were typical, sulfonated wool dyes with a range of hydrophobic characteristics, as determined by their partitioning behavior between water and n-butanol. No significant effects of plasma on the rate of dye adsorption were observed with relatively hydrophobic dyes. In contrast, the relatively hydrophilic dyes were adsorbed more rapidly (and uniformly) by the plasma-treated fabric. It was concluded that adsorption of hydrophobic dyes on plasma-treated wool was influenced by hydrophobic interactions, whereas electrostatic effects predominated for dyes of more hydrophilic character. On heating the dyebath to 90 ºC in order to achieve fiber penetration, no significant effect of the plasma treatment on the extent of uptake or levelness of a relatively hydrophilic dye was observed as equilibrium conditions were approached.

The photostability of wool doped with photocatalytic titanium dioxide

Photoyellowing of wool is a serious problem for the wool industry. This study assessed the role of photocatalytic nanocrystalline titanium dioxide (P-25) as a potential antagonist or catalyst in the photoyellowing of wool. Untreated, bleached and bleached and fluorescent-whitened wool slivers were processed into fine wool powders for the purpose of even and intimate mixing with the TiO2 nanoparticles in the solid state. Pure wool and wool/TiO2 mixtures were then compressed into solid discs for a photoyellowing study under simulated sunlight and under UVB and UVC radiations. Yellowness and photo-induced chemiluminescence (PICL) measurements showed that nanocrystalline TiO2 could effectively reduce the rate of photoyellowing by inhibiting free radical generation in doped wool, and that a higher concentration of TiO2 contributed to a lower rate of photooxidation and reduced photoyellowing. Hence nanocrystalline TiO2 acts primarily as a UV absorber on wool in dry conditions and not as a photocatalyst.