Mohair research update 17 : wearer comfort of mohair textiles - does mohair have an allergy problem?

Many aspects of textiles affect the comfort or discomfort experienced by people. The effects of variations in thermal, moisture transmission, air permeability, size, fit, aesthetics and static electrical properties on textiles have been known for many years (Slater, 1977). Problems experienced with wearer comfort, both sensory and functional, have increased in commercial importance for all animal fibres. Surveys have shown that consumers report that prickle discomfort from wearing wool next to the skin is a negative market attribute for wool (IWS, 1993; Millard Brown, 2007).

Ocean currents influence the genetic structure of an intertidal mollusc in southeastern Australia – implications for predicting the movement of passive dispersers across a marine biogeographic barrier

Major disjunctions among marine communities in southeastern Australia have been well documented, although explanations for biogeographic structuring remain uncertain. Converging ocean currents, environmental gradients, and habitat discontinuities have been hypothesized as likely drivers of structuring in many species, although the extent to which species are affected appears largely dependent on specific life histories and ecologies. Understanding these relationships is critical to the management of native and invasive species, and the preservation of evolutionary processes that shape biodiversity in this region. In this study we test the direct influence of ocean currents on the genetic structure of a passive disperser across a major biogeographic barrier. Donax deltoides (Veneroida: Donacidae) is an intertidal, soft-sediment mollusc and an ideal surrogate for testing this relationship, given its lack of habitat constraints in this region, and its immense dispersal potential driven by year-long spawning and long-lived planktonic larvae. We assessed allele frequencies at 10 polymorphic microsatellite loci across 11 sample locations spanning the barrier region and identified genetic structure consistent with the major ocean currents of southeastern Australia. Analysis of mitochondrial DNA sequence data indicated no evidence of genetic structuring, but signatures of a species range expansion corresponding with historical inundations of the Bassian Isthmus. Our results indicate that ocean currents are likely to be the most influential factor affecting the genetic structure of D. deltoides and a likely physical barrier for passive dispersing marine fauna generally in southeastern Australia.

Effect of fibre, yarn and knitted fabric attributes associated with wool comfort properties

In this replicated experiment, we investigated the comfort properties of single jersey fabrics composed of cashmere in blends with superfine wools of different fibre curvature (crimp) where the fibre diameter of the wool and cashmere were tightly controlled. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) which has been calibrated using wearer trials of wool knitwear. General linear modelling determined the best prediction models for log10 transformed fabric WCM values using 27 fibre, 16 yarn and 30 fabric attributes. Tighter fabrics were less comfortable. Progressively blending cashmere with wool progressively increased comfort assessment. The WCM was able to detect differences between fabrics which were more supple and springy, thinner and lighter, and were composed of more elastic, uniform and stronger yarns. Together these attributes explained 82% of the variance in WCM value.