Effect of fibre, yarn and knitted fabric attributes associated with wool comfort properties

In this replicated experiment, we investigated the comfort properties of single jersey fabrics composed of cashmere in blends with superfine wools of different fibre curvature (crimp) where the fibre diameter of the wool and cashmere were tightly controlled. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) which has been calibrated using wearer trials of wool knitwear. General linear modelling determined the best prediction models for log10 transformed fabric WCM values using 27 fibre, 16 yarn and 30 fabric attributes. Tighter fabrics were less comfortable. Progressively blending cashmere with wool progressively increased comfort assessment. The WCM was able to detect differences between fabrics which were more supple and springy, thinner and lighter, and were composed of more elastic, uniform and stronger yarns. Together these attributes explained 82% of the variance in WCM value.

Predicting comfort properties of knitted fabrics by assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter

This study examined the feasibility of assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) to predict the comfort properties of the corresponding single jersey-knitted fabrics. The optimum yarn arrangement to predict the comfort value of a corresponding control fabric was determined using nine wool and wool/nylon-blended yarns (mean fibre diameter range 16.5–24.9 μm) knitted into 34 different fabrics. Using a notched template, yarn winding frequencies of 1, 3, 6, 12, 25 and 50 parallel yarns were tested on the WCM. The best predictor of fabric WCM values was using 25 parallel yarns. Inclusion of knitting gauge and cover factor slightly improved predictions. This indicates that evaluation at the yarn stage would be a reliable predictor of knitted fabric comfort, and thus yarn testing would avoid the time and expense of fabric construction.

Improved incorporation of fibres for more abrasion resistant yarns

Rubbing of the fibrous strand after drafting, but before twist insertion improves the incorporation of surface fibres. The method delivers the benefits of a small spinning triangle like compact spinning and improved fibre trapping like siro and solo spinning. The yarns produced are less hairy and more resistant to degradation in downstream processing. This can improve the weavability of the yarns, reduce the sizing costs and increase service life of the fabrics by making them more resistant to wear and pilling.

Composite yarns fabricated from continuous needleless electrospun nanofibers

In this work, a spinning metal wire collector was employed to continuously collect polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofibers produced by a disc fiber generator and coil them around a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarn. The obtained composite yarns exhibited a core/shell structure (PET yarn/PAN nanofibers) with nanofibers orderly arranged on the surface of the PET yarn. The electric field analysis showed that the position of metal wire had insignificant effect on the formed electric field and high intensity electric field was formed at the disc circumferential area, which provided a constant electric field for the production of uniform nanofibers. The spinning solution, spinning speed of metal wire, and winding speed were found to play an important role in producing good quality nanofiber yarns, in terms of morphology, strength, and productivity. Pure nanofiber yarns were obtained after dissolving the core yarns in a proper solvent. This method has shown potential for the mass production of nanofiber yarns for industrial applications.

Polyacrylonitrile nanofibre yarn; electrospinning and their post-drawing behaviour

Polyacrylontrile nanofibre yarns have been successfully produced from an electrospinning setup composing positively and negatively charged spinnerets, a rotating funnel and a yarn winder. Through hot drawing, yarns show compact morphology and improved uniformity and have a significant decrease in both yarn and fibre diameters. The hot drawing has improved the molecular orientation and crystallinity of the fibres. The yarn drawn to 5 times of its original length has been found to have the highest tensile strength and modulus.

Recent research and developments on yarn hairiness

Hairiness is an important quality parameter of spun yarns. It not only affects the quality of yarns, but also the weaving and knitting performance of yarns as well as the quality of the resultant fabrics. Various developments regarding yarn hairiness have been reported in the last decade. These cover aspects such as hairiness measurement, modeling, simulation, spinning modifications and post spinning treatments to reduce hairiness. This study is an attempt to critically review all significant recent developments regarding yarn hairiness. Further possibilities of research and future work are also briefly discussed.

Relationships between wearer assessment and the instrumental measurement of the handle and prickle of knitted wool fabrics

The relationships between wearer-assessed comfort and objectively measured comfort and handle parameters were investigated using 19 pure wool single jersey garments made of single ply yarns. Wearer trials were used to determine prickle discomfort, and whether wearers “liked” the garments. Fabrics then were objectively evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes; and the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM), to predict a wearer's perception of fabric-evoked prickle. Wearer responses and the relationships within and between objective measurements and the effect of fibre, yarn and fabrics attributes were analysed by general linear modelling. Mean fibre diameter, fibre diameter coefficient of variation, yarn count, fabric thickness, fabric density, fabric mass per unit area and decatising affected one or more handle parameters. The best model for predicting wearer prickle discomfort accounted for 90.9% of the variance and included only terms for the WCM and WCM2. The WCM was a good predictor whereas mean fibre diameter was a poor predictor of whether wearers “liked” garments. Wearer assessment of prickle and whether or not wearers “liked” fabrics were independent of fabric handle assessment. The results indicate that the handle and comfort properties of lightweight, wool jersey fabrics can be quantified accurately using the Wool HandleMeter and the Wool ComfortMeter. For fabric handle, fibre and yarn characteristics were less important than changes in the properties of the fabric.

High-performance multifunctional graphene yarns: toward wearable all-carbon energy storage textiles

The successful commercialization of smart wearable garments is hindered by the lack of fully integrated carbon-based energy storage devices into smart wearables. Since electrodes are the active components that determine the performance of energy storage systems, it is important to rationally design and engineer hierarchical architectures atboth the nano- and macroscale that can enjoy all of the necessary requirements for a perfect electrode. Here we demonstrate a large-scale flexible fabrication of highly porous high-performance multifunctional graphene oxide (GO) and rGO fibers and yarns by taking advantage of the intrinsic soft self-assembly behavior of ultralarge graphene oxide liquid crystalline dispersions. The produced yarns, which are the only practical form of these architectures for real-life device applications, were found to be mechanically robust (Young's modulus in excess of 29 GPa) and exhibited high native electrical conductivity (2508 ± 632 S m(-1)) and exceptionally high specific surface area (2605 m(2) g(-1) before reduction and 2210 m(2) g(-1) after reduction). Furthermore, the highly porous nature of these architectures enabled us to translate the superior electrochemical properties of individual graphene sheets into practical everyday use devices with complex geometrical architectures. The as-prepared final architectures exhibited an open network structure with a continuous ion transport network, resulting in unrivaled charge storage capacity (409 F g(-1) at 1 A g(-1)) and rate capability (56 F g(-1) at 100 A g(-1)) while maintaining their strong flexible nature.

Electrospinning of nanofibre yarns using rotating ring collector

 In this project, a novel ring collector was used to convert newly electrospun nanofibres into yarn. This setup has been designed to separate electrospinning from yarn drafting/twisting in two distinct zones. Three different types of electrospinning systems, i.e. needle, needleless, and needle/needleless hybrid, were utilized to produce nanofibre yarns.

Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

Previous investigations have shown that prickle discomfort sensations of wool fabrics are primarily determined by the mean fiber diameter of the wool. It is also known that differences in wool fiber curvature (crimp) affect softness of handle of greasy wool and of wool textiles. In a replicated experiment, we investigated if wearers could detect the effect of using 17 µm superfine wool of low (74°/mm) or high (114°/mm) fiber curvature, and when the wools were blended with 17 µm cashmere (fiber curvature 49°/mm) in differing proportions, on four comfort sensations. Eight single jersey knitted fabrics were assessed under a controlled protocol using forearm sleeves made of the test fabric and a control fabric. Data (37 sensorial assessments of high curvature wool fabrics; 38 sensorial assessments of low curvature wool fabrics) were analyzed using linear mixed model analysis (restricted maximum likelihood), which included fixed effects for wool type and blend ratio and a random effect for participant. The use of a control sleeve fabric reduced variance due to participant effects by providing an anchor for each sensation over time. Wool fiber curvature affected participant assessment of breathability, comfort, feel after exercise (damp/dry) and skin feel (prickly/soft), with preferred values associated with high curvature (crimp) superfine wool. Increasing the proportion of cashmere in fabrics increased skin feel (better assessed softness). Skin feel was strongly associated with the evaluation of the fabrics by the Wool ComfortMeter and with increasing hairiness of yarns.

Ultrafine wools: comfort and handle properties for next-to-skin knitwear and manufacturing performance

This study aimed to quantify the skin comfort and handle properties of a range of wool fabrics produced from ultrafine wool (13.7–15.1 µm) and in doing so determine if differences in fiber diameter and staple crimp frequency (5.3–7.1 crimps/cm) were important in these properties. The fabrics were evaluated using a range of subjective and objective measurement techniques, including the Wool ComfortMeter, the Wool HandleMeter and in wearer trials. This work indicated that single jersey fabrics made from ultrafine wool are approaching the limit of objective and subjective evaluation of next-to-skin comfort. The results from the Wool ComfortMeter, Wool HandleMeter and the wearer trial show that there were no significant effects that can be attributed to wool staple crimp (fiber curvature) in these ultrafine wool fabrics. The work also demonstrated a difference in the manufacturing response when knitted fabric made from wools of different fiber diameter (13.7–23.7 µm), and using yarns of the same count, resulted in a progressively higher fabric mass per unit area as mean fiber diameter was progressively reduced.

Direct electrospinning of nanofibre yarns using a rotating ring collector

Nanofibres prepared by electrospinning typically have randomly oriented fibrous structure. They have large surface-to-volume (or weight) ratio and excellent porous characteristic, which have shown enormous potential in diverse applications. However, electrospun nanofibres are often prepared in the form of randomly orientated fibrous web, which are fragile and difficult to be tailored in fibrous structures. Herein, we demonstrate a novel yarn electrospinning method which uses a rotating ring collector to convert newly electrospun nanofibres directly into a continuous yarn. The use of ring collector separates the yarn formation from the electrospinning zone. The deposition of later-spun nanofibres to the inner surface of fibrous cone eliminates hooked or curled nanofibres in the final yarn. The effects of polymer concentration and operating parameters on nanofibre and yarn morphology, diameter and the ring collector on yarn twist feature were examined. The nanofibre yarns had a surface twist angle up to 54.4°, and tensile strength as high as 93.6 MPa (elongation at break 242.6%). Increasing twist levels improves tensile strength and strain values.

Highly-twisted, continuous nanofibre yarns prepared by a hybrid needle-needleless electrospinning technique

Nanofibres prepared by electrospinning have shown enormous potential for various applications. They are obtained predominantly in the form of nonwoven fibre webs. The 2-dimensional nonwoven feature and fragility have considerably confined their further processing into fabrics through knitting or weaving. Nanofibre yarns, which are nanofibre bundles with continuous length and a twist feature, show improved tensile strength, offering opportunities for making 3-dimensional fibrous materials with precisely controlled fibrous architecture, porous features and fabric dimensions. Despite a few techniques having been developed for electrospinning nanofibre yarns, they are chiefly based on the needle electrospinning technique, which often has low nanofibre productivity. In this study, we for the first time report a nanofibre yarn electrospinning technique which combines both needle and needleless electrospinning. A rotating intermediate ring collector was employed to directly collect freshly-electrospun nanofibres into a fibrous cone, which was further drawn and twisted into a nanofibre yarn. This novel system was able to produce high tenacity yarn (tensile strength 128.9 MPa and max strain 222.1%) at a production rate of 240 m h^-1, with a twist level up to 4700 twists per metre. The effects of various parameters, e.g. position of the electrospinning units, operating conditions and polymer concentration, on nanofibre and yarn production were examined.

Research on the influence of yarn parameters on the ultraviolet protection of yarns

Considering both the yarn parameters and the light interaction (reflectance and transmittance) between two adjacent yarns, an optical model was presented to understand the ultraviolet (UV) light penetrating a single undyed yarn and a lot of yarns. The optical model was verified with results of diffuse reflectance spectra measurement on wool yarn samples. This optical model was used to predict the factors influencing UV protection, including fibre diameter, yarn linear density, yarn twist, transmittance index and refractive index. The statistical predictive model was also set up to show the relationship between the yarn parameters and the UV protection (UPF values) of the yarns. Yarns with the fine diameter, large yarn linear density and low yarn twist had the high UV protection.

Online stretching of directly electrospun nanofiber yarns

Nanofiber yarns are important building blocks for making three-dimensional nanostructures, e.g. through a knitting or weaving process, with better mechanical properties than nanofiber nonwovens and well-controlled fibrous construction. However, it still remains challenging to produce quality nanofiber yarns in a sufficient rate. In this study, we have proven that online stretching during electrospinning of nanofiber yarns can considerably improve fiber alignment and molecular orientation within the yarn and increase yarn tensile strength, but reduce fiber/yarn diameters. By compensating twist during online stretching, the device can prepare nanofiber yarns with different stretch levels, but maintaining the same twist multiplier. This allows us to examine the effect of stretching on fiber and yarn morphology. It was interesting to find that on increasing the stretching ratio from 0% to 95%, the yarn diameter reduced from 135.1 ± 20.3 μm to 46.2 ± 10.2 μm, and the fiber diameter reduced from 998 ± 141 nm to 631 ± 98 nm, whereas the yarn tensile strength increased from 48.2 ± 5.6 MPa to 127.7 ± 5.4 MPa. Such an advanced yarn electrospinning technique can produce nanofiber yarn with an overall yarn production rate as high as 10 m min−1. This may be useful for production of nanofiber yarns for various applications.