Effects of different nutritional regimens on the productivity of Australian Cashmere goats and the partitioning of nutrients between cashmere and hair growth

The influence of energy or protein supplementation or energy restriction on cashmere growth was studied in 35 highly productive cashmere wether goats. The goats were shorn on 3 December and randomly allocated to 3 levels of energy intake: M, goats fed to maintain liveweight; 0.8M, goats fed to lose 5 kg liveweight from December to April and then fed ad libitum; and >M, goats fed to gain liveweight. Nested within >M were ADLIB (goats offered feed ad libitum), and 1.25M and l.5M (goats fed M plus 25 or 50% of the difference in mean intake between M and ADLIB). The metabolisable energy requirement to maintain liveweight was 250 kJ kg-0.75 day-1 but to maintain body condition (l.25M) it was 3 12 kJ kg-0.75 day-1. Goats fed 0.8M had a mean intake of 0.68M and lost 26 g day-1 liveweight until April, but when fed ad libitum consumed 2.15M in June and grew rapidly in late autumn and winter at 93 g day-1. Goats fed ADLIB consumed 2.30M in February and gained 87 g day-1 from December to February, but intake declined to 1.61 M in June and they gained 20 g day-1 from April to June. Cashmere growth and fibre diameters of fleeces shorn on 17 June of goats fed >M (221g, 17.69 pm) were significantly greater (P< 0.02) than those of goats fed 0.8M (146 g, 16.67 ¦m), with levels of M-fed goats being intermediate. Within >M, there were no significant differences in cashmere growth. Protein supplementation within M (27 or 54 g day -1 formaldehyde- treated casein) resulted in 40% more wool growth in sheep (P<0.001), but no increase in cashmere or hair growth in goats. Goats fed ADLIB had significantly reduced cashmere yields (P < 0.05) and grew more hair (P<0.05) than did goats in other treatments. About 4 weeks after energy supplementation, fibre diameter of previously energy-deprived goats increased (P< 0.01). Midside patches indicated that energy-deprived goats, which lost liveweight, diverted nutrients preferentially to cashmere growth, while goats fed ADLIB partitioned nutrients towards hair growth. To maximise cashmere growth, supplementary energy should be supplied to avoid liveweight loss from December to April. Goats that had small (1-2 kg) liveweight gains and maintained body condition achieved near maximal levels of cashmere growth.

What happens during natural protein fibre dissolution in ionic liquids

Here, we monitor the dissolution of several natural protein fibres such as wool, human hair and silk, in various ionic liquids (ILs). The dissolution of protein-based materials using ILs is an emerging area exploring the production of new materials from waste products. Wool is a keratin fibre, which is extensively used in the textiles industry and as a result has considerable amounts of waste produced each year. Wool, along with human hair, has a unique morphology whereby the outer layer, the cuticle, is heavily cross linked with disulphide bonds, whereas silk does not have this outer layer. Here we show how ILs dissolve natural protein fibres and how the mechanism of dissolution is directly related to the structure and morphology of the wool fibre. © 2014 by the authors; licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.

The value of visual fleece assessment in addition to objective measurements in identifying Angora goats of greater clean mohair production

Visual assessment of the fleece of Merino sheep is an accepted method to aid genetic improvement but there is little evidence to support the use of visual assessment for improving mohair production. This paper examines the extent that visual traits, including staple length, character (staple crimp), staple definition, tippiness, style and staple entanglement, are related to clean fleece weight in animals of similar live weight and mean fibre diameter (MFD) from the same flock. Measurements were made over 9 shearing periods on a population of castrated Angora males (wethers) goats representing the current range and diversity of genetic origins in Australia, including South African, Texan and interbred admixtures of these and Australian sources (these different genetic origins are defined as Breed in this work). Data on genetic origin, sire, dam, lifetime characteristics (date of birth, dam age, birth weight, birth parity (single or twin), weaning weight), live weight, fleece growth and visual fleece attributes were recorded. A restricted maximum likelihood (REML) model was developed to relate clean fleece weight with age, MFD, average fleece-free live weight, lifetime characteristics and visual fleece attributes. There were separate linear responses of clean fleece weight to MFD and staple length for each age group, a quadratic response to the square root of average fleece-free live weight, an effect of sire breed and linear responses to dam age, staple definition score and character. Depending on age at shearing, the increase in clean fleece weight was between about 50 and 80. g for each increase of 1. μm in MFD. At similar MFD, clean fleece weight was generally greater at summer shearings compared with winter shearings. There was a strong increase in clean fleece weight with average fleece-free live weight up to around 50. kg but little response in clean fleece weight for animals larger than 50. kg. There was some evidence of a smaller increase in clean fleece weight as the age of dam increased. There was an effect of Breed in the model but this effect disappeared when a random sire effect was included in the model. There was a positive response to staple length at some age groups but the response did not differ from zero in other age groups. This response varied from negligible to about 70. g per 1. cm increase in staple length. Clean fleece weight increased about 40. g per unit increase in staple definition score and increased about 30. g for every 4 units increase in the number of staple crimps. There was no evidence that clean fleece weight was affected by staple style, staple tip score or staple entanglement score or lifetime factors such as birth weight, date of birth, birth parity, or weaning weight. The results show that using a combination of measuring MFD and visually assessing the fleece for staple length, staple definition and crimps can help identify the most profitable Angora goats. In this process, the objective measurement of MFD appears essential. Visual assessment will provide some extra benefit in identifying these animals above that provided by measuring MFD alone. Animal size should be considered by mohair producers when identifying more productive mohair producing animals. © 2014 Elsevier B.V.

Indices for cashmere fleece competition and across farm comparisons: The role of staple length in identifying goats of higher cashmere production

A single focus on mean fibre diameter (MFD, μm) as the definition of cashmere quality overlooks the effects of fibre length, softness and fibre curvature on cashmere processing, textile quality and consumer acceptance. Many farmers overlook the importance of cashmere staple length (SL, cm) in their fleece assessments. We aimed to determine the importance of SL in comparison with MFD when evaluating cashmere production and to identify how across farm comparisons of cashmere fleeces can be objectively undertaken. A sample of 1244 commercial cashmere fleeces from goats originating from many Australian farms was used. Least squares models, relating the logarithm of clean cashmere production (CCMwt, g) to MFD and SL, were fitted. Six years of data from the Australian cashmere industry between farm fleece competitions were analysed to determine the relation between CCMwt and MFD. In the research flocks, adjusting CCMwt of individual goats across farms for MFD only accounted for 2% of the variance, whereas SL accounted for 39% of the variance. The least squares additive model involving only SL was: log10(CCMwt)=1.570+0.06010×SL. Thus CCMwt was proportional to: 100.06010×SL=1.1484SL. It was appropriate to adjust CCMwt for SL by a factor 1/1.1484(SL-SL0) where SL0 is a standard SL of 7.5cm. The between farm index for cashmere weight equals: cleancashmerestaplelengthindex=2.823×CCMwt/1.1484SL. For industry fleece competitions, regression analysis indicated that there was no association between cashmere production and MFD (P=0.81), similar to the research data. Adjusting CCMwt for MFD in across farm comparison and fleece competitions appears to be ineffective. For farm comparisons and in fleece competitions it is important to assess cashmere SL. The use of the Clean Cashmere Staple Length Index will provide a more robust comparison of cashmere productivity between farms as it is an indirect indicator of desirable skin secondary follicle development. The results have application in development projects where obtaining a cashmere MFD test is costly or unavailable. © 2013 Elsevier B.V.

The influence of yarn parameters on the ultraviolet protection of yarns

 Improving ultraviolet (UV) protection of textiles is essential to protect wearers against UV radiation induced risks. In addition to fabric parameters, yarn parameters are important factors affecting UV protection of textiles. This work is to examine the influence of yarn parameters on UV protection in order to set up a statistical model for predicting the UV protection of yarns. Wool yarns with different variables were used to test the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) values for data analysis and the model verification. The model provides the optimized parameters for the UV protective fabric design. This work is helpful as a pre-cursor to the development of a more advanced optical model, which will look at understanding the penetration of UV light through fibres, yarns and fabrics.

Visible and UV functionality of TiO2 ternary nanocomposites on cotton

This research intends to increase the photocatalytic efficiency of cotton fabrics coated with TiO2-based nanocomposites under illumination particularly visible light. The fabrics were functionalized using a low-temperature sol-gel method of TiO2/Metal/SiO2 nanocomposite systems. Integrating silica and noble metals into TiO2 sol was put forth for boosting its functionality. Three noble metals (gold (Au), platinum (Pt) and silver (Ag)) with four different concentrations were employed. The photocatalytic activity of the functionalized fabrics was assessed through coffee stain-removal test and photodecomposition of methylene blue (MB) under UV and visible light. The impact of coating layers on fabrics' hydrophilicity was analyzed through measuring the water contact angle as well as the water absorption time. The fabrics were characterized using XRD, SEM and EDS. It was corroborated that the presence of silica enhanced the self-stain-removal capability of fabrics under UV. Moreover, the self-cleaning property of fabrics improved under both UV and visible light after integrating the metals into the colloids. In the same line, the self-cleaning activity threshold of fabrics was shifted to visible region.

Review on fabrication and applications of ultrafine particles from animal protein fibres

Protein fibre wastes from animal hairs, feathers and insect secreted filaments can be aptly utilized by converting them into ultra-fine particles. Particles from animal protein fibres present large surface-to-weight ratio and significantly enhanced surface reactivity, that have opened up novel applications in both textile and non-textile fields. This review article summarizes the state-of-the-art routes to fabricate ultrafine particles from animal protein fibres, including direct route of mechanical milling of fibres and indirect route from fibre proteins. Ongoing research trends in novel applications of protein fibre particles in various fields, such as biomedical science, environmental protection and composite structures are presented. © 2014 The Korean Fiber Society and Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht.

Physical properties of novel co-woven-knitted fabrics

 Co-woven-knitted (CWK) fabrics have been reported previously. Historically these unique structures have been used to develop composite and shielding fabrics. In this study, novel CWK structures with unique appearances was developed with a modified machine using wool and polyester yarns. The physical properties of these fabrics were compared with conventional woven and knitted fabrics. The thickness of the CWK fabrics was similar to knits. The fabrics showed a unique tensile strength, with higher bending rigidity, and performed better in abrasion resistance.

Contribution of objective and subjective attributes to the variation in the whiteness and brightness of commercial mohair sale lots

Colour properties are measured prior to the sale of merino wool as they are of commercial importance when greasy wool is sold and when wool is dyed. With the paucity of knowledge of the colour properties of commercial mohair, this study aimed to identify and quantify the factors affecting the brightness (Y) and yellowness (Y-Z) values of commercial lots of Australian mohair. The research database comprised 520 sale lots (>500,000 kg mohair), which had tristimulus tests, and was sold during the period 2001–2009. Mohair was subjectively classed and sale lots objectively tested using international standard methods for mean fibre diameter (MFD, μm), fibre diameter coefficient of variation (%), International Wool Testing Organization (IWTO) clean wool base (IWTO yield, %w/w), vegetable matter (VM, %w/w) and the tristimulus values X, Y and Z (T units). The tristimulus values of Australian mohair were affected by the objective measurements of MFD, VM%, the subjective classing of stain, cotting, kemp and length and by the year and selling season. Variation in Y was more easily predicted with 90.5% of variance explained by the best model compared with variation in Y-Z, where the best model explained 51.6% of the total variance. Visually assessed properties of the mohair were very important in separating mohair of different Y properties, accounting for almost 80% of the total variance, but were far less important in accounting for the variance in Y-Z, accounting for about 9–10% of the total variance. The most important effects on the Y of mohair were associated with subjectively determined fault categories determined before the sale of mohair. In particular, stain fault explained about two-thirds of the variance in brightness of mohair sale lots. Stained mohair had much lower brightness than mohair free of stain but stain fault explained very little of the variation in yellowness of mohair sale lots. The extent of the differences in tristimulus values between seasons and years were not large for Y but were more important for yellowness (Y-Z), and these effects are likely to be of commercial importance. Generally, brightness decreased and yellowness increased as MFD increased up to about 30 μm. Both cotting and kemp fault were associated with reduced brightness and increased yellowness. The effects of VM% on tristimulus values were small. IWTO yield was associated with changes in tristimulus values, but in the best model, IWTO yield was not a significant determinant. This study indicates that commercial Australian fleece (nonfaulted) mohair was essentially white. Faulted mohair on the other hand exhibited poorer colour characteristics. The mohair subjectively identified as stained prior to sale comprised all the mohair which would be regarded as not white, and this investigation indicates that the effect of staining is on the brightness of mohair rather than the Y-Z measurement. Unlike the situation with merino wool, there was little relationship between the naturally occurring contaminants, as measured by the IWTO washing yield, and either Y or Y-Z.

UV protection performance of textiles affected by fiber cross-sectional shape

Abstract
In this study, a model was set up for simulating the effects of varying fiber cross-sectional shapes on ultraviolet protection of fibers. The fiber diameter and fiber type were also involved in the model setting. Experiments of diffuse reflectance spectra measurement on natural (wool, cotton, silk), regenerated (bamboo viscose) and synthetic (polyester, nylon) fibers were conducted to verify the model predicted results. When a more complex shape was assumed as the fiber cross-section for model calculation, the predicted results have a better agreement with the actual results. The effects on ultraviolet absorption from fibers with different cross-sectional shapes were investigated at a single fiber, fiber bundle and yarn levels. With the same material, when the fiber cross-sectional area and the areal coverage of a single fiber were constant, the triangular shape had the lowest ultraviolet transmittance and the highest ultraviolet reflectance for a single fiber and also for a fiber bundle. The difference of fiber cross-sectional shapes was also significant in the ultraviolet protection of a single yarn.

Farmers’ work-day noise exposure

Objective: This study aims to understand the extent offarmers’ exposure to hazardous noise, and trial and testthe ability of an on-farm noise audit report to improve awareness and preventative action towards farm based noise hazards.Design: Visits were made to working farms where noiseand dosimetry measurements undertaken. During return visits, the noise measurements were explained ina brief report. A follow-up questionnaire was imple-mented gathering feedback on the use or otherwise ofthe report.Setting: Working farms in Western Victoria and SEQueensland including dairy, beef, wool, prime lamb andcropping.Participants: Participants were 14 female and 37 male farm workers.Interventions: Noise exposure assessment of dailyactivities through dosimetry; measurements of noisy tasks and machinery; supply and interpretation of anoise audit report.Main outcome measures: Participants were suppliedwith a ‘noise report’ of their workplace together with an explanation of the report’s meaning to farm workers.Results: Men and women have similar at risk expo-sures. The average noise exposure was 1.09 Pa2h(LAeq,8h= 85.3 dB). This implies 163 000 Australian agricultural workers are at risk from hazardous noise.On-farm noise audit reports were a relevant and valuable feedback to farmers in relation to their potential noise hazards.Conclusions: Of those measured 51%, and by extrapo-lation 163 000 Australian agricultural workers, have noise exposure levels greater than the recommendedAustralian Standard of 1.01 Pa2h (85 dB). Men and women are equally exposed. On-farm noise auditreports are an effective feedback to increase awareness and improve hearing health

Weathering, fibre strength and colour properties of processed white cashmere

Weathering refers to the degradation of wool fibres that occur during growth from exposure of the fleece to sunlight, water and air. Weathering damage to Merino wool reduces quantities of fibre that are harvested, reduces length in both raw and processed wools, reduces spinning performance and dyeing outcomes. This work aimed to aimed to quantify if and to what extent weathering occurred in 38 lots of commercial dehaired white cashmere and cashmere top sourced from traditional and new origins of production and the extent of any association between weathering and tensile strength properties of the dehaired cashmere and cashmere top. The cashmere was tested for physical properties, bundle tenacity and extension, tristimulus values brightness (Y) and yellowness (Y-Z) and reflectance. Dye uptake was used as an index of weathering. Linear models, relating to weathering, bundle tenacity and Y-Z were fitted to origin and other objective measurements. Mean attributes (range) were: mean fibre diameter, 17.0 μm (13.5–21.3 μm); bundle tenacity of tops, 10.3 cN/tex (8.3–12.9 cN/tex), for dehaired fibre, 10.1 cN/tex (9.1–11.4 cN/tex). Stain uptake varied from 0.92 to 6.34 mg/g fibre indicating a six-fold variation in the extent of weathering. Both the extent of weathering and the bundle tenacity of commercial lots of cashmere were affected by the origin of the cashmere. Increased weathering reduced bundle tenacity, bundle extension, increased the yellowness and reduced reflectance of white cashmere. Bundle tenacity of cashmere declined as fibre diameter variability increased from 20 to 22.5%. For the samples tested, the cashmere from China, Mongolia, Afghanistan and Iran showed more weathering than cashmere from Australia, New Zealand and the USA. The differences in the extent of weathering and of bundle tenacity between cashmere from different origins were of commercial significance.