Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

Previous investigations have shown that prickle discomfort sensations of wool fabrics are primarily determined by the mean fiber diameter of the wool. It is also known that differences in wool fiber curvature (crimp) affect softness of handle of greasy wool and of wool textiles. In a replicated experiment, we investigated if wearers could detect the effect of using 17 µm superfine wool of low (74°/mm) or high (114°/mm) fiber curvature, and when the wools were blended with 17 µm cashmere (fiber curvature 49°/mm) in differing proportions, on four comfort sensations. Eight single jersey knitted fabrics were assessed under a controlled protocol using forearm sleeves made of the test fabric and a control fabric. Data (37 sensorial assessments of high curvature wool fabrics; 38 sensorial assessments of low curvature wool fabrics) were analyzed using linear mixed model analysis (restricted maximum likelihood), which included fixed effects for wool type and blend ratio and a random effect for participant. The use of a control sleeve fabric reduced variance due to participant effects by providing an anchor for each sensation over time. Wool fiber curvature affected participant assessment of breathability, comfort, feel after exercise (damp/dry) and skin feel (prickly/soft), with preferred values associated with high curvature (crimp) superfine wool. Increasing the proportion of cashmere in fabrics increased skin feel (better assessed softness). Skin feel was strongly associated with the evaluation of the fabrics by the Wool ComfortMeter and with increasing hairiness of yarns.

Ultrafine wools: comfort and handle properties for next-to-skin knitwear and manufacturing performance

This study aimed to quantify the skin comfort and handle properties of a range of wool fabrics produced from ultrafine wool (13.7–15.1 µm) and in doing so determine if differences in fiber diameter and staple crimp frequency (5.3–7.1 crimps/cm) were important in these properties. The fabrics were evaluated using a range of subjective and objective measurement techniques, including the Wool ComfortMeter, the Wool HandleMeter and in wearer trials. This work indicated that single jersey fabrics made from ultrafine wool are approaching the limit of objective and subjective evaluation of next-to-skin comfort. The results from the Wool ComfortMeter, Wool HandleMeter and the wearer trial show that there were no significant effects that can be attributed to wool staple crimp (fiber curvature) in these ultrafine wool fabrics. The work also demonstrated a difference in the manufacturing response when knitted fabric made from wools of different fiber diameter (13.7–23.7 µm), and using yarns of the same count, resulted in a progressively higher fabric mass per unit area as mean fiber diameter was progressively reduced.

Thermoelectric fabrics: toward power generating clothing.

Herein, we demonstrate that a flexible, air-permeable, thermoelectric (TE) power generator can be prepared by applying a TE polymer (e.g. poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene):poly(4-styrenesulfonate)) coated commercial fabric and subsequently by linking the coated strips with a conductive connection (e.g. using fine metal wires). The poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene):poly(4-styrenesulfonate) coated fabric shows very stable TE properties from 300 K to 390 K. The fabric device can generate a TE voltage output (V) of 4.3 mV at a temperature difference (ΔT) of 75.2 K. The potential for using fabric TE devices to harvest body temperature energy has been discussed. Fabric-based TE devices may be useful for the development of new power generating clothing and self-powered wearable electronics.

Effects of fibre parameters on the ultraviolet protection of fibre assemblies

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation protection is becoming increasingly necessary for human health, and textiles play an important role. The interaction between UV light and textiles is a complex one, involving fibre, yarn and fabric parameters. In this study, an optical model is presented for examining the influences of fibre parameters on the UV protection offered by a bundle of fibres with a given mass. The effects of mean fibre diameter and fibre type on UV absorption were examined. The model was verified with results of UV–visible diffuse reflectance measurements on natural and synthetic fibres. When the mass of fibres was kept constant, within the measurement range in this study, a bundle of fibres with coarser fibres had a lower UV reflectance than that with finer ones. The model accurately predicted factors influencing UV protection, including fibre diameter, fibre transmittance, porosity and refractive index.

A study of the feasibility of wool bonded polyurethane for sportswear applications

This study investigates if surface modification, in conjunction with thermal transfer, will improve the adhesion of polyurethane films onto a wool fabric surface for sportswear application. Atmospheric pressure plasma and hydrogen peroxide treatments were used to enhance the surface energy of the wool fabric. Polyurethane polymer films were transferred onto the surface of treated fabrics using a hot press method. The effectiveness of different treatments to improve the adhesion of the film onto the wool surface was tested by washing fastness and the stretch recovery of polyurethane bonded fabrics. The results confirmed improvement on adhesion properties of wool bonded fabrics after different treatments.

Between policy and a hard pedagogical place: the emotional geographies of teaching for citizenship in low socioeconomic schools

Reflecting an international trend, Australian education policy increasingly charges schools with fostering active citizens who have the will and capacity to improve the democratic fabric and drive needed social change. This policy prescription also resonates with some teachers’ critical commitments to pedagogical practices that encourage young people to see themselves as transformative citizens capable of engineering a more just and equitable society. In particular, in low socio-economic school contexts, however, the pursuit of such practices may be subject to the complex physical and emotional geographies that attend the project of schooling in such contexts. In this article, I consider the empirical data derived from my recent discourse analysis of two schools in which teachers have introduced what I have termed the pedagogies of active citizenship. Both of these schools are located in low socio-economic Australian communities, that is, communities where structural, socio-geographic and socio-economic forms of marginalisation are an issue. I consider what motivates, enables and authorises such teachers, as well as what risks may attend the championing of such pedagogies in contexts that are subject to conflicting or competing education discourses and priorities. Theoretically, I draw on ideas of risk as well as on a growing body of scholarship that is concerned with the emotional geographies of citizenship and schooling.

Reducing the risk of heart disease among Indian Australians: knowledge, attitudes, and beliefs regarding food practices - a focus group study

BACKGROUND: Australia has a growing number of Asian Indian immigrants. Unfortunately, this population has an increased risk for coronary heart disease (CHD). Dietary adherence is an important strategy in reducing risk for CHD. This study aimed to gain greater understanding of the knowledge, attitudes and beliefs relating to food practices in Asian Indian Australians. METHODS: Two focus groups with six participants in each were recruited using a convenience sampling technique. Verbatim transcriptions were made and thematic content analysis undertaken. RESULTS: Four main themes that emerged from the data included: migration as a pervasive factor for diet and health; importance of food in maintaining the social fabric; knowledge and understanding of health and diet; and elements of effective interventions. DISCUSSION: Diet is a complex constructed factor in how people express themselves individually, in families and communities. There are many interconnected factors influencing diet choice that goes beyond culture and religion to include migration and acculturation. CONCLUSIONS: Food and associated behaviors are an important aspect of the social fabric. Entrenched and inherent knowledge, attitudes, beliefs and traditions frame individuals' point of reference around food and recommendations for an optimal diet.

Sky high, skin deep: dark technologies of mediation

Media has become responsive architecture. Intelligent media artefacts are now embedded into the very fabric of our existence; they have become the structure of society itself. Ubiquitous computing creates informational environments in which material structures of communication become alive with agency. McLuhan's light bulb is now everyware: [1] technology that mediates by its mere presence. Pervasive mediation, a combination of mobile networks and systems of material translation such as 3D printers and programmable matter--is our current regime of mediation.

Unlawful acts, unkind architecture and unhelpful perceptions: a case study of Market Square Mall, Geelong

On a quiet Sunday afternoon in January 2015, a 12 year old girl was assaulted in Geelong’s Market Square mall. The attack sparked a media furore over what should be done to address the ongoing safety and amenity issues of this intractable public space. The city’s mayor, Cr Darryn Lyons, responded to the situation by declaring the mall a ‘haunt for bogans and scumbags’ and renewed calls for its demolition. Such rhetoric highlights the exclusionary mindset that casts certain types of people as undesirable inhabitants of public spaces. It also bolsters negative public perceptions of the mall. Once formed, such attitudes are difficult to shift, despite an overall improvement in the area’s crime rates over recent years. Poor perceptions are further reinforced by the soulless nature of the mall’s built fabric and weak urban interfaces. Its formal language is one of hostility, not only towards would-be delinquents, but to all people. The space is furnished with cold stainless steel seats, CCTV cameras and limp, pavement water spouts, while its inactive edges consist of loading bays, security grilles and neglected facades. This paper considers how a more inclusive architecture might be utilised to create a kinder, more generous physical environment that reflects the public nature of the space. While not a quick fix, fostering an architecture that encourages a more equitable use of the mall may diminish the sense of fear, anxiety and suspicion that the space currently elicits, tackling the problem at both a structural and social level.

The misanthropes, larrikins and mallrats of market square: an enduring public space dilemma in central Geelong

Market Square was a public reserve located in the centre of the Victorian regional city of Geelong. It was established by Governor Sir George Gipps during the initial surveying of the area in 1838. The square later became a produce market, before being progressively built upon for public and commercial purposes. Today, the modern Market Square Shopping Centre occupies a substantial portion of the original site. Opened in 1985 by the City of Geelong, the complex initially drew high rental incomes for the Council. However, by the early 1990s revenue began to decline after the collapse of the Pyramid Building Society and competition from the new Bay City Plaza shopping centre (now Westfield) that was built directly opposite. In 1993 the city council decided to sell the complex. Today it remains privately owned and while it adjoins the Little Malop Street Mall which was also part of the original public square, its connection with the surrounding urban environment is poor. The introverted architectural nature of Geelong’s two large retail shopping complexes has significantly altered the city’s spatial dynamic. The traditional intimate urban structure and streetscape has been fragmented. This has led to a deterioration of the city’s social cohesion, sense of place and economic prosperity. This paper chronicles the myriad errors of judgement by the institution of local government that have contributed to this situation. Heeding past mistakes, it explores ways in which the Council might work with private landowners to improve the permeability of the city’s public urban spaces and internalised retail centres for improved use, integration, functionality and resilience. Achieving a shared culture of concern for the city’s urban fabric presents some significant challenges. How might ‘big box’ shopping centres be reconsidered to make a positive contribution to the city’s urban spatial network while remaining commercially viable? The built environment has an important role to play in addressing the problem by presenting opportunities for these new urban institutions to also benefit from stronger connections between the public and private realm.

Selective, spontaneous one-way oil-transport fabrics and their novel use for gauging liquid surface tension

Thin porous materials that can spontaneously transport oil fluids just in a single direction have great potential for making energy-saving functional membranes. However, there is little data for the preparation and functionalities of this smart material. Here, we report a novel method to prepare one-way oil-transport fabrics and their application in detecting liquid surface tension. This functional fabric was prepared by a two-step coating process to apply flowerlike ZnO nanorods, fluorinated decyl polyhedral oligomeric silsesquioxanes, and hydrolyzed fluorinated alkylsilane on a fabric substrate. Upon one-sided UV irradiation, the coated fabric shows a one-way transport feature that allows oil fluid transport automatically from the unirradiated side to the UV-irradiated surface, but it stops fluid transport in the opposite direction. The fabric still maintains high superhydrophobicity after UV treatment. The one-way fluid transport takes place only for the oil fluids with a specific surface tension value, and the fluid selectivity is dependent on the UV treatment time. Changing the UV irradiation time from 6 to 30 h broadened the one-way transport for fluids with surface tension from around 22.3 mN/m to a range of 22.3-56.7 mN/m. We further proved that this selective one-way oil transport can be used to estimate the surface tension of a liquid simply by observing its transport feature on a series of fabrics with different one-way oil-transport selectivities. To our knowledge, this is the first example to use one-way fluid-transport materials for testing the liquid surface tension. It may open up further theoretical studies and the development of novel fluid sensors.

Highly-twisted, continuous nanofibre yarns prepared by a hybrid needle-needleless electrospinning technique

Nanofibres prepared by electrospinning have shown enormous potential for various applications. They are obtained predominantly in the form of nonwoven fibre webs. The 2-dimensional nonwoven feature and fragility have considerably confined their further processing into fabrics through knitting or weaving. Nanofibre yarns, which are nanofibre bundles with continuous length and a twist feature, show improved tensile strength, offering opportunities for making 3-dimensional fibrous materials with precisely controlled fibrous architecture, porous features and fabric dimensions. Despite a few techniques having been developed for electrospinning nanofibre yarns, they are chiefly based on the needle electrospinning technique, which often has low nanofibre productivity. In this study, we for the first time report a nanofibre yarn electrospinning technique which combines both needle and needleless electrospinning. A rotating intermediate ring collector was employed to directly collect freshly-electrospun nanofibres into a fibrous cone, which was further drawn and twisted into a nanofibre yarn. This novel system was able to produce high tenacity yarn (tensile strength 128.9 MPa and max strain 222.1%) at a production rate of 240 m h^-1, with a twist level up to 4700 twists per metre. The effects of various parameters, e.g. position of the electrospinning units, operating conditions and polymer concentration, on nanofibre and yarn production were examined.

Self-cleaning, superhydrophobic cotton fabrics with excellent washing durability, solvent resistance and chemical stability prepared from an SU-8 derived surface coating

Superhydrophobic cotton fabrics with a very low contact angle hysteresis were prepared using a single-pot coating solution comprising SU-8 (a negative photoresist), a fluorinated alkyl silane and silica nanoparticles. The fabric was treated using a dip-coating technique and subsequently cured under UV light. The coated fabric showed excellent superhydrophobicity with a water contact angle as high as 163° and a sliding angle as low as 2°. The coating was durable enough to withstand 100 laundry cycles. It also had excellent stability against long immersion times in organic solvents, and acid and base solutions.

Enhancing linguistic and cultural proficiency through Chinese children’s literature

This paper addresses the issue of selecting high-quality materials for teaching Chinese to non-native-speaker students. The paper argues that the unique nature of literary texts for children and adolescents written in simple and standard language reflecting the rich social fabric of China make them valuable materials for teaching foreign learners of the modern Chinese language. The special value of these materials to non-native learners lies not only in their linguistic aptness, but also in their informative connection between the modern Chinese language and the history and culture of China. The paper demonstrates how to effectively use these materials in a cooperative Chinese language classroom.

Weaving a web: subaltern consumers, rising consumer culture, and television

Cultivation analysis suggests that television influences local cultures through its complex repertoire of images and narratives, which constitute a representation. Through a discursive analysis of television content in India we contend that rising material aspirations and consumer culture are significantly influenced by this medium. Dialectics of turmoil and tranquility mark this development for the working class population. On the one hand, there is domestication of unrest among subaltern groups, as they withdraw from collective political struggles to narrower and more tranquil forms of emulation and economism. On the other hand, these attempts at emulation have resulted in the poorer sections of society devoting their limited resources to aping a lifestyle well beyond their reach and further compromising their quality of life. The other pole of the dialectic is the increase in turmoil that results from tearing the traditional social fabric and support systems. This turmoil progressively manifests itself in increasing materialism and greater monetization of relationships for these subaltern groups.