Alterations

Alterations
A project conceived by Paul Carter, Professor of Design / Urbanism, Architecture & Design, that explores the theme of 'Alterations' in clothes, identities and spaces. The project is inspired by Dandenong's rapidly mutating public and commercial spaces and the multicultural communities that animate them. The project features a multi-monitor video work Loops, textile-based installation, documentary photography, and poster manifestos. Artists featured include Dirk de Bruyn, Ed Carter, Paul Carter and Soo Yeun You.

Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere, alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres

Softness of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool, dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer raw materials are discussed.

Improvement in yarn quality for cotton and cotton blend yarns

A novel method of improving yarn quality by improved incorporation of fibres into the yarn structure has been proposed and investigated. This methid enables spinning of finer, stronger, low twist, less hairy and more abarsion resistant yarns.

Mohair fibre quality and production as related to animal size

Mohair is a luxury fibre produced by Angora goats. Mohair has special textile properties and is famed for its lustre. There are many reports of the relationships between mohair attributes and processing. While mohair production can be profitable to farmers there are severe price discounts for faults and poor quality. While genetics is known to affect mohair quality, fundamental relationships between body size and mohair quality have not been determined. We conducted a series of investigations to quantify the relationships between important mohair quality attributes and live weight and other lifetime factors associated with Angora goats.

Fabrication and applications of ultrafine powder from cashmere guard hair

Cashmere guard hair, an industrial animal protein fibre waste material has been very first time converted into ultra-fine powder particles. The work also demonstrates potential of the newly developed particles in high value technical applications such as toxic heavy metal ion separation and surface functionalization of textile fabrics.

Workers’ compensation and mental health : examining the mental health impacts of involvement in the Victorian Work Cover system from the perspective of long-­term injured workers

The project aimed to explore long--term injured workers’ experiences and perceptions of their mental health as they progressed through the Victorian WorkCover process. The purpose of the project was to assist in understanding these factors in order to identify how workers might be better supported, and to identify changes that compensation authorities, employers and unions can make to reduce mental distress amongst injured workers. As a project based on workers’ accounts of their experiences, it aimed to provide a narrative basis for the development of supportive policy and practice to reduce mental distress amongst people who are clients of the WorkCover system. The project was a qualitative study based on fifteen in--depth interviews with people who had been injured at work and who had been off work for at least six months. The workers who took part in the study were recruited with the assistance of their trade unions, using an advertisement that was distributed via the unions’ regular communication channels. Workers were asked to tell their story of injury and recovery with a particular focus on how they felt and the factors that affected them, both positively and negatively. They were also asked what could or should be changed to support workers’ recovery and improve their experience of the WorkCover system. The workers who took part in the study came from a variety of industry sectors (education, textile and clothing manufacturing and meat industries) and different occupational categories (professional, trade/technical and manual). They included people whose primary injury was physical and those whose primary injury was psychosocial.

Becoming an artist: life histories and visual images

Chapter summary:
In this chapter, we consider the experiences of an art/research experiment that took place in the context of the annual conference of the British Sociaological Association (BSA), held at the University of East London in April 2007. The essay is in four parts: in the first section, the researcher gives the context of the project that underpinned the BSA event, mapping its theoretical directions and methodological moves. In the second section, the artist tells stories of becoming through words and images. The force of the artist’s narrative challenges and reconfigures discursively constructed boundaries between the researcher and the artist, initiating a dialogic encounter that unfolds in the third section as a visual/textual interface. This encounter revolves around the quest for meaning, which is after all what oral history is about (Portelli, 2011). Our quest for meaning actually inspired us to write about and problematize the BSA event. In this light, the final section looks critically into some of the questions that have arisen, situating them within wider problematics in the field of oral histories and narrative research.

Book summary:
Interviews are becoming an increasingly dominant research method in art, craft, design, fashion and textile history. This groundbreaking text demonstrates how artists, writers and historians deploy interviews as creative practice, as 'history', and as a means to insights into the micro-practices of arts production and identity that contribute to questions of 'voice', authenticity, and authorship. Through a wide range of case studies from international scholars and practitioners across a variety of fields, the volume maps how oral history interviews contribute to a relational practice that is creative, rigorous and ethically grounded.

Properties of bamboo fibres produced using an environmentally benign method

The properties of bamboo fibres extracted from raw bamboo plants in an environmentally benign manner were investigated. To reduce environmental impacts of the manufacturing process, microwave, ultra-sonication and enzyme were used to extract the bamboo fibres, avoiding the use of hazardous chemicals. The new method enabled the extraction of single fibres while retaining a certain quantity of lignin in fibre. The retained lignin allowed the fibre to possess UV absorption and antibacterial properties, which will be advantageous for many textile applications.

Recycling textiles : The use of ionic liquids in the separation of cotton polyester blends

Textiles are commonly made from intimate blends of polyester and cotton, which makes recycling very difficult. We report for the first time the use of ionic liquid in the separation of polyester cotton blends. By selective dissolution of the cotton component, the polyester component can be separated and recovered in high yield. This finding presents an environmentally benign approach to recycling textile waste. © 2014 The Royal Society of Chemistry.

Dannevirke’s fashion capital: The fashion and Silvalyne Gowns

Although not known as a ‘fashion capital’, for young emigrant Norman Alexander, Dannevirke in 1927 was a style opportunity waiting to be served. This paper takes as its case study, the work of Alexander through his Dannevirke-based fashion company ‘Silvalyne Gowns’ and his High Street retail outlet ‘The Fashion’. New Zealand’s fashion design history has been increasingly interrogated over the past decade, and often gives privilege to those who have found success overseas, or who were primarily located in New Zealand’s main centers. Only occasionally does research touch on smaller towns and the role they too played in New Zealand’s fashion history. By placing emphasis on a smaller, less well-known town this paper seeks to redress this balance and open up enquiry about how the town and the country may also be positioned alongside the better-known fashion centers.

Effect of genotype and sex on fiber growth rate of alpacas for their first year of fleece production

The sale of alpaca fiber is the main income for thousands of families in the Central Andes of Peru. Little information exists on the fiber length growth rate of alpaca (FLG), especially throughout their first year of life when the fiber is most valuable. We aimed to determine the monthly FLG of 22 alpaca offspring of two genotypes (9 Suri, 13 Huacaya) and considering sex differences (10 females, 12 males) in the High Andes of Peru. FLG growth was determined using dye-bands. An additive lineal model with three factors (genotype, sex, month) was used for statistic analysis. To evaluate the effect of genotype and sex on the profile of the FLG throughout the year a two factor repeated-measures model was used. The results showed that FLG was affected by genotype and month but not sex. The Suri genotype had 20% higher FLG than Huacaya genotype alpacas (1.34 vs 1.10 cm/month, P < 0.001). FLG increased over each of the first three months (P < 0.05) and then maintained a near constant rate for the remainder of the first year. The resulting staple length indicates that shearing at ages from 8 to 12 months of age will provide fleeces of sufficient length for textile processing.

Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability

Felting is a unique attribute of animal fibres used for the production of a range of industrial and apparel textiles. Felting can be an adverse attribute as a consequence of dimensional shrinkage during laundering. As there is little objective information regarding the feltability of rare animal fibres or the factors which may affect felting three investigations were undertaken. A survey (n = 114) of the feltability of cashmere from different origins of production, cashgora, quivet, camel hair, llama, guanaco, bison wool, cow fibre and yak wool quantified the large variation between and within these fibre types. Cashmere from some origins and cashgora produced higher feltball density than the other fibres. Different nutritional management of cashmere goats (n = 35) showed that cashmere grown by poorly fed goats had a lower propensity to felt compared with cashmere grown by better fed goats. A consequence of the progressive blending of cashmere (n = 27) with a low propensity to felt superfine wool (high fibre curvature) increased the propensity of the blend to felt, but when the same cashmere was blended with low curvature superfine wool, there was little or no effect on feltability. The mechanisms which lead to variance in feltability of these fibres were quantified with multiple regression modelling. The mechanisms were similar to those reported for wools, namely variations in the resistance to compression, fibre curvature and mean fibre diameter, with likely effects of fibre crimp form. It is possible to source cashmere and other animal fibres which have different propensities to felt and therefore to produce textiles which are likely to have different textile properties.

Indices for cashmere fleece competition and across farm comparisons: The role of staple length in identifying goats of higher cashmere production

A single focus on mean fibre diameter (MFD, μm) as the definition of cashmere quality overlooks the effects of fibre length, softness and fibre curvature on cashmere processing, textile quality and consumer acceptance. Many farmers overlook the importance of cashmere staple length (SL, cm) in their fleece assessments. We aimed to determine the importance of SL in comparison with MFD when evaluating cashmere production and to identify how across farm comparisons of cashmere fleeces can be objectively undertaken. A sample of 1244 commercial cashmere fleeces from goats originating from many Australian farms was used. Least squares models, relating the logarithm of clean cashmere production (CCMwt, g) to MFD and SL, were fitted. Six years of data from the Australian cashmere industry between farm fleece competitions were analysed to determine the relation between CCMwt and MFD. In the research flocks, adjusting CCMwt of individual goats across farms for MFD only accounted for 2% of the variance, whereas SL accounted for 39% of the variance. The least squares additive model involving only SL was: log10(CCMwt)=1.570+0.06010×SL. Thus CCMwt was proportional to: 100.06010×SL=1.1484SL. It was appropriate to adjust CCMwt for SL by a factor 1/1.1484(SL-SL0) where SL0 is a standard SL of 7.5cm. The between farm index for cashmere weight equals: cleancashmerestaplelengthindex=2.823×CCMwt/1.1484SL. For industry fleece competitions, regression analysis indicated that there was no association between cashmere production and MFD (P=0.81), similar to the research data. Adjusting CCMwt for MFD in across farm comparison and fleece competitions appears to be ineffective. For farm comparisons and in fleece competitions it is important to assess cashmere SL. The use of the Clean Cashmere Staple Length Index will provide a more robust comparison of cashmere productivity between farms as it is an indirect indicator of desirable skin secondary follicle development. The results have application in development projects where obtaining a cashmere MFD test is costly or unavailable. © 2013 Elsevier B.V.

The influence of yarn parameters on the ultraviolet protection of yarns

 Improving ultraviolet (UV) protection of textiles is essential to protect wearers against UV radiation induced risks. In addition to fabric parameters, yarn parameters are important factors affecting UV protection of textiles. This work is to examine the influence of yarn parameters on UV protection in order to set up a statistical model for predicting the UV protection of yarns. Wool yarns with different variables were used to test the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) values for data analysis and the model verification. The model provides the optimized parameters for the UV protective fabric design. This work is helpful as a pre-cursor to the development of a more advanced optical model, which will look at understanding the penetration of UV light through fibres, yarns and fabrics.