Influence of pH on hygral expansion, relaxation shrinkage and extensibility of wool fabric

The standard tests for relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion of wool fabric take no account of pH. It is shown in this work that the pH of the solution in which wool fabric is relaxed as part of the procedure for measuring dimensional properties has a significant influence on the results. At around pH 4.8, which is close to the isoelectric point of wool, the hygral expansion reaches its greatest value and drops at both lower and higher pHs. A similar relationship between pH and extensibility of wool fabric was observed. Values of relaxation shrinkage were found to be dependant on pH. The reasons for the pH dependence of dimensional properties are discussed and these include changes in wool fiber swelling, yarn crimp and polymer relaxation phenomena with changes in pH.

Tensile behaviour of wool fabric as a function of fabric pH

Wool fabric extensibility under a 5 N/cm load was observed to be greatest at the wool isoelectric point of pH 4.8 and lower at both pH 2.1 and pH 7.2. The impact of pH on fabric extensibility is similar to the variation in fabric hygral expansion previously observed. Fabric stress-strain curves at different pHs show that for a given fabric extension level, the work required to stretch a fabric was less at pH 2.1 than at pH 4.8. These results confirm the fact that the strength of wool fabric is at a maximum when the pH of the fibres is close to the isoelectric point.

Effects of pH on the stress-strain properties of wool fabric

In wool dyeing and finishing processes, fabric is often treated under conditions of different pHs and is subjected to a variety of physical and chemical environments. This work investigates fabric tensile properties at three different fabric pHs. Wool fabric extensibility under a 5 N/cm load was observed to be greatest at the wool isoelectric point of pH 4.8 and lower at both pH 2.1 and pH 7.2. The impact of pH on fabric extensibility was found to be similar to the variation in fabric hygral expansion previously observed. Fabric stress–strain curves at different pHs showed that for a given fabric extension level, the work required to stretch a fabric was less at pH 2.1 than at pH 4.8. These results suggest that the strength of wool fabric is at maximum when the pH of the fibres is close to the wool isoelectric point and that for consistency, the pH of fabric should be adjusted before standard strength tests are carried out.

The dimensional and mechanical properties of wool/polyester fabrics made from vortex and ring-spun yarns

Fabric woven from wool/polyester (PES) Murata vortex spun (MVS) blend yarn is a commercially viable proposition particularly on the basis of advantageous wear-resistant properties, compared with fabric made from traditional worsted ring-spun yarn. However, in some early industrial trials with fabric made from 45/55-blend wool/PES MVS yarn, significantly greater relaxation shrinkage was found relative to comparable worsted ring-spun fabric. It was noted at the time that the amount of relaxation shrinkage in MVS fabric could be reduced to a large extent by using steamed MVS yarn.

In this study, the extent of variations in the dimensional and mechanical properties of fabric samples woven from a combination of steamed and unsteamed MVS yarn and equivalent worsted ring-spun yarn is examined. In general, greater hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage were found in loom-state fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarns, whereas the fabric made from steamed MVS and ring-spun yarns gave relatively low levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion. Permanent setting of fabrics, by pressure steaming, was found to be more effective than yarn pre-steaming in reducing relaxation shrinkage levels of fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarn. After pressure steaming, all fabrics showed similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion.

Permanent setting of the fabrics, by pressure steaming, resulted in similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, irrespective of the yarn production method; relaxation shrinkage fell to around 1% and hygral expansion increased by about 1%, relative to the loom-state samples. MVS fabrics were relatively heavier and fuller and had a firmer handle than the worsted ring-spun fabrics, reflecting the greater fabric weight, thickness and shear rigidity measured on these fabrics. These attributes are associated with different structures of the worsted ring-spun and MVS yarns used to make the fabrics.

Wear attributes of cashmere single jersey knitted fabrics blended with high and low crimp superfine merino wool

In a replicated experiment, we investigated the impact of cashmere in blends with superfine wools on the wear attributes of single jersey knitted fabrics. We also investigated the relative performance of low crimp/low fiber curvature superfine wool when compared with cashmere and also when compared with traditional high crimp/high fiber curvature superfine wool in pure and blended knitted fabrics. Wool type, blend ratio and fabric structure affected fabric air permeability, resistance to pilling and change in appearance, relaxation shrinkage, hygral expansion, and dimensional stability during laundering. The responses to variation in fiber crimp were much greater than previously reported. The fabric properties of low crimp wool differed significantly from those made from high crimp wool, and low crimp wool fabric properties differed significantly from, but were closer to, the fabric properties of cashmere, compared with high curvature wool.

The effect of fabric strain during pressure steaming on fabric dimensional properties

It is shown that tension applied to fabric which is then permanently set by steaming under pressure for a short time has a significant effect on fabric dimensional properties. Increasing levels of stretch applied to fabric before pressure steaming resulted in decreases in fabric hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage and also lowered fabric shrinkage that resulted from permanent setting. The setting conditions resembled those used in conventional pressure decatising, and it is suggested that in batch decatising, precise control of the length and width of fabric as it is batched up with the wrapper before steaming under pressure could enable predictable changes in fabric dimensions, relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion to be obtained.

Dependence of wool fabric dimensions on temperature and pH

Through a series of experimental analysis of temperature and pH value on the expansion of wool fiber and wool fabrics size change. In the pH2.1 solution, the wool fabric size declines with increasing temperature, changing the magnitude depends on the fabric and fabric shape rate. isoelectric point of pH4.8 in the wool, the fibers expand to reach the minimum, while the size of the fabric, along with the solution acidity increases.

Woolgrowers, brokers and the debate over the sale of the Australian wool clip, 1920-1925

Prior to the First World War, the selling of the Australian wool clip rested firmly in the hands of the large woolbroking firms. An agreement between the British and Australian governments during the war saw many of the wool-selling functions of broking firms taken over by the Central Wool Committee. At the conclusion of hostilities, brokers moved to regain their role in the market. However, market conditions had changed. On an international level, traditional trading relationships had broken down, leaving commodity markets unstable and prices unpredictable. On a local level, woolgrowers had benefited from the wartime orderly marketing scheme and the high price guaranteed by the British government for their wool clip. As a result, they had begun to demand a greater role in the selling arrangements of their clip. This paper investigates the debates over the sale of the wool clip in the 1920s and how woolbrokers and growers eventually arrived at an understanding as to the manner in which the market should operate.

Characterization of conductive polyprrole coated wool yarns

Wool yarns were coated with conducting polypyrrole by chemical synthesis methods. Polymerization of pyrrole was carried out in the presence of wool yarn at various concentrations of the monomer and dopant anion. The changes in tensile, moisture absorption, and electrical properties of the yarn upon coating with conductive polypyrrole are presented. Coating the wool yarns with conductive polypyrrole resulted in higher tenacity, higher breaking strain, and lower initial modulus. The changes in tensile properties are attributed to the changes in surface morphology due to the coating and reinforcing effect of conductive polypyrrole. The thickness of the coating increased with the concentration of p-toluene sulfonic acid, which in turn caused a reduction in the moisture regain of the wool yarn. Reducing the synthesis temperature and replacing p-toluenesulfonic acid by anthraquinone sulfonic acid resulted in a large reduction in the resistance of the yarn.

Resistance to compression behavior of alpaca and wool

This study compares the resistance to compression behavior of wool and alpaca fibers. It shows that alpaca fibers have a much lower resistance to compression than wool, and there is little correlation between the resistance to compression and the curvature for alpaca fibers. Yet for wool fibers, the correlation between resistance to compression and curvature is very strong and positive. The differences in fiber curvature and scale profiles of alpaca and wool, together with the test method for resistance to compression, may explain their different resistances to compression.

Frictional and tensile properties of conducting polymer coated wool and alpaca fibers

Wool and alpaca fibers were coated with polypyrrole by vapor-phase polymerisation method. The changes in frictional and tensile properties of the single fibers upon coating with the conductive polymer are presented. Coating a thin layer of polypyrrole on the alpaca and wool fibers results in a significant reduction in the fiber coefficient of friction, as the conducting polymer layer smooths the protruding edges of the fiber scales. It also reduces the directional friction effect of the fibers. Depending on the type of fiber, the coating may slightly enhance the tensile properties of the coated fibers.

Measuring the influence of fibre-to-fabric properties on the pilling of wool fabrics

This study ranks the contribution of various fibre, yarn and fabric attributes to the pilling of wool knitwear. On the basis of an artificial neural network modelling, a combination of sensitivity analysis, forwards/backwards search and genetic algorithms was used to identify the importance of various fibre/yarn/fabric input parameters. The three different techniques show broad similarities in their assessment of which input parameters are important or are not important in affecting fabric pilling. The ranking shows that fabric cover factor has the most effect on pilling, followed by yarn count and thin places, fibre length, yarn twist, etc. It is further illustrated that the directional trend of the predicted pilling outputs for a selection of inputs was in line with the expected behaviour. To verify the findings of input feature selection, input factors deemed to have a small effect on the predicted pilling output, such as fibre length and diameter variations and curvature, were removed and the subsequent performance statistically compared to the original multi-layer perceptron. Differences between the outputs predicted by the original and pruned models are found not to be statistically significant at the 5% significance level. Results from this study may help manufacturers and knitwear designers in choosing the most appropriate materials and structures to reduce the pilling propensity of wool knitwear.

Predicting the pilling tendency of wool knits

This work investigates the application of artificial neural network modeling (ANN) to model the relationships between fiber, yarn, and fabric properties and the pilling propensity of single jersey and rib pure wool knitted fabrics based on the ICI Pilling Box method. Validation of the model on an independent validation data set suggests that the accurate prediction of pilling propensity is possible with the best performing model achieving a correlation with the subjectively rated pilling grades of approximately 85%. Importantly, it is also illustrated that a larger training set can lead to a marked improvement in the accuracy of predictions.

The hairiness of worsted wool and cashmere yarns and the impact of fiber curvature on hairiness

In this study, a range of carefully selected wool and cashmere yarns as well as their blends were used to examine the effects of fiber curvature and blend ratio on yarn hairiness. The results indicate that yarns spun from wool fibers with a higher curvature have lower yarn hairiness than yarns spun from similar wool of a lower curvature. For blend yarns made from wool and cashmere of similar diameter, yarn hairiness increases with the increase in the cashmere content in the yarn. This is probably due to the presence of increased proportion of the shorter cashmere fibers in the surface regions of the yarn, leading to increased yarn hairiness. A modified hairiness composition model is used to explain these results and the likely origin of leading and trailing hairs. This model highlights the importance of yarn surface composition on yarn hairiness.