Approximations to the scattering of water waves by steep topography

A new method is developed for approximating the scattering of linear surface gravity waves on water of varying quiescent depth in two dimensions. A conformal mapping of the fluid domain onto a uniform rectangular strip transforms steep and discontinuous bed profiles into relatively slowly varying, smooth functions in the transformed free-surface condition. By analogy with the mild-slope approach used extensively in unmapped domains, an approximate solution of the transformed problem is sought in the form of a modulated propagating wave which is determined by solving a second-order ordinary differential equation. This can be achieved numerically, but an analytic solution in the form of a rapidly convergent infinite series is also derived and provides simple explicit formulae for the scattered wave amplitudes. Small-amplitude and slow variations in the bedform that are excluded from the mapping procedure are incorporated in the approximation by a straightforward extension of the theory. The error incurred in using the method is established by means of a rigorous numerical investigation and it is found that remarkably accurate estimates of the scattered wave amplitudes are given for a wide range of bedforms and frequencies.

On some properties of traveling water waves with vorticity

We prove that for a large class of vorticity functions the crests of any corresponding traveling gravity water wave of finite depth are necessarily points of maximal horizontal velocity. We also show that for waves with nonpositive vorticity the pressure everywhere in the fluid is larger than the atmospheric pressure. A related a priori estimate for waves with nonnegative vorticity is also given.

Steady periodic water waves with constant vorticity: regularity and local bifurcation

This paper studies periodic traveling gravity waves at the free surface of water in a flow of constant vorticity over a flat bed. Using conformal mappings the free-boundary problem is transformed into a quasilinear pseudodifferential equation for a periodic function of one variable. The new formulation leads to a regularity result and, by use of bifurcation theory, to the existence of waves of small amplitude even in the presence of stagnation points in the flow.

Equivalence of weak formulations of the steady water waves equations

We prove the equivalence of three weak formulations of the steady water waves equations, namely: the velocity formulation, the stream function formulation and the Dubreil-Jacotin formulation, under weak Hölder regularity assumptions on their solutions.

A linear model for the structure of turbulence beneath surface water waves

The structure of turbulence in the ocean surface layer is investigated using a simplified semi-analytical model based on rapid-distortion theory. In this model, which is linear with respect to the turbulence, the flow comprises a mean Eulerian shear current, the Stokes drift of an irrotational surface wave, which accounts for the irreversible effect of the waves on the turbulence, and the turbulence itself, whose time evolution is calculated. By analysing the equations of motion used in the model, which are linearised versions of the Craik–Leibovich equations containing a ‘vortex force’, it is found that a flow including mean shear and a Stokes drift is formally equivalent to a flow including mean shear and rotation. In particular, Craik and Leibovich’s condition for the linear instability of the first kind of flow is equivalent to Bradshaw’s condition for the linear instability of the second. However, the present study goes beyond linear stability analyses by considering flow disturbances of finite amplitude, which allows calculating turbulence statistics and addressing cases where the linear stability is neutral. Results from the model show that the turbulence displays a structure with a continuous variation of the anisotropy and elongation, ranging from streaky structures, for distortion by shear only, to streamwise vortices resembling Langmuir circulations, for distortion by Stokes drift only. The TKE grows faster for distortion by a shear and a Stokes drift gradient with the same sign (a situation relevant to wind waves), but the turbulence is more isotropic in that case (which is linearly unstable to Langmuir circulations).

Water wave scattering by finite arrays of circular structures

The scattering of small amplitude water waves by a finite array of locally axisymmetric structures is considered. Regions of varying quiescent depth are included and their axisymmetric nature, together with a mild-slope approximation, permits an adaptation of well-known interaction theory which ultimately reduces the problem to a simple numerical calculation. Numerical results are given and effects due to regions of varying depth on wave loading and free-surface elevation are presented.

An integral equation method for a boundary value problem arising in unsteady water wave problems

In this paper we consider the 2D Dirichlet boundary value problem for Laplace’s equation in a non-locally perturbed half-plane, with data in the space of bounded and continuous functions. We show uniqueness of solution, using standard Phragmen-Lindelof arguments. The main result is to propose a boundary integral equation formulation, to prove equivalence with the boundary value problem, and to show that the integral equation is well posed by applying a recent partial generalisation of the Fredholm alternative in Arens et al [J. Int. Equ. Appl. 15 (2003) pp. 1-35]. This then leads to an existence proof for the boundary value problem. Keywords. Boundary integral equation method, Water waves, Laplace’s

Numerical modelling of two-way propagation of non-linear dispersive waves

We describe and implement a fully discrete spectral method for the numerical solution of a class of non-linear, dispersive systems of Boussinesq type, modelling two-way propagation of long water waves of small amplitude in a channel. For three particular systems, we investigate properties of the numerically computed solutions; in particular we study the generation and interaction of approximate solitary waves.

On the existence of extreme waves and the Stokes conjecture with vorticity

This is a study of singular solutions of the problem of traveling gravity water waves on flows with vorticity. We show that, for a certain class of vorticity functions, a sequence of regular waves converges to an extreme wave with stagnation points at its crests. We also show that, for any vorticity function, the profile of an extreme wave must have either a corner of 120° or a horizontal tangent at any stagnation point about which it is supposed symmetric. Moreover, the profile necessarily has a corner of 120° if the vorticity is nonnegative near the free surface.

The Stokes conjecture for waves with vorticity

We study stagnation points of two-dimensional steady gravity free-surface water waves with vorticity. We obtain for example that, in the case where the free surface is an injective curve, the asymptotics at any stagnation point is given either by the “Stokes corner flow” where the free surface has a corner of 120°, or the free surface ends in a horizontal cusp, or the free surface is horizontally flat at the stagnation point. The cusp case is a new feature in the case with vorticity, and it is not possible in the absence of vorticity. In a second main result we exclude horizontally flat singularities in the case that the vorticity is 0 on the free surface. Here the vorticity may have infinitely many sign changes accumulating at the free surface, which makes this case particularly difficult and explains why it has been almost untouched by research so far. Our results are based on calculations in the original variables and do not rely on structural assumptions needed in previous results such as isolated singularities, symmetry and monotonicity.

A geometric approach to generalized Stokes conjectures

We consider the Stokes conjecture concerning the shape of extreme two-dimensional water waves. By new geometric methods including a nonlinear frequency formula, we prove the Stokes conjecture in the original variables. Our results do not rely on structural assumptions needed in previous results such as isolated singularities, symmetry and monotonicity. Part of our results extends to the mathematical problem in higher dimensions.

Impact of mass lumping on gravity and Rossby waves in 2D finite-element shallow-water models

The goal of this study is to evaluate the effect of mass lumping on the dispersion properties of four finite-element velocity/surface-elevation pairs that are used to approximate the linear shallow-water equations. For each pair, the dispersion relation, obtained using the mass lumping technique, is computed and analysed for both gravity and Rossby waves. The dispersion relations are compared with those obtained for the consistent schemes (without lumping) and the continuous case. The P0-P1, RT0 and P-P1 pairs are shown to preserve good dispersive properties when the mass matrix is lumped. Test problems to simulate fast gravity and slow Rossby waves are in good agreement with the analytical results.