16 resultados para Make-up

em CentAUR: Central Archive University of Reading - UK


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In England, drama is embedded into the National Curriculum as a part of the programmes of study for the subject of English. This means that all children aged between 5 - 16 in state funded schools have an entitlement to be taught some aspects of the subject. While the manifestation of drama in primary schools is diverse, in a great many schools for students aged between 11 – 19, drama and theatre art is taught as a discrete subject in the same way that the visual arts and music are. Students may opt for public examination courses in the subject at ages 16 and 18. In order to satisfy the specifications laid down for such examinations many schools recognise the need for specialist teachers and indeed specialist teaching rooms and equipment. This chapter outlines how drama is taught in secondary schools in England (there being subtle variations in the education systems in the other countries that make up the United Kingdom) and the theories that underpin drama’s place in the curriculum as a subject in its own right and as a vehicle for delivering other aspects of the prescribed curriculum are discussed. The paper goes on to review the way in which drama is taught articulates with the requirements and current initiatives laid down by the government. Given this context, the chapter moves on to explore what specialist subject and pedagogical knowledge secondary school drama teachers need. Furthermore, consideration is made of the tensions that may be seen to exist between the way drama teachers perceive their own identity as subject specialists and the restrictions and demands placed upon them by the education system within which they work. An insight into the backgrounds of those who become drama teachers in England is provided and the reasons for choosing such a career and the expectations and concerns that underpin their training are identified and analysed.

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The eukaryotic genome is a mosaic of eubacterial and archaeal genes in addition to those unique to itself. The mosaic may have arisen as the result of two prokaryotes merging their genomes, or from genes acquired from an endosymbiont of eubacterial origin. A third possibility is that the eukaryotic genome arose from successive events of lateral gene transfer over long periods of time. This theory does not exclude the endosymbiont, but questions whether it is necessary to explain the peculiar set of eukaryotic genes. We use phylogenetic studies and reconstructions of ancestral first appearances of genes on the prokaryotic phylogeny to assess evidence for the lateral gene transfer scenario. We find that phylogenies advanced to support fusion can also arise from a succession of lateral gene transfer events. Our reconstructions of ancestral first appearances of genes reveal that the various genes that make up the eukaryotic mosaic arose at different times and in diverse lineages on the prokaryotic tree, and were not available in a single lineage. Successive events of lateral gene transfer can explain the unusual mosaic structure of the eukaryotic genome, with its content linked to the immediate adaptive value of the genes its acquired. Progress in understanding eukaryotes may come from identifying ancestral features such as the eukaryotic splicesome that could explain why this lineage invaded, or created, the eukaryoticniche.

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CVD is a common killer in both the Western world and the developing world. It is a multifactorial disease that is influenced by many environmental and genetic factors. Although public health advice to date has been principally in the form of prescribed population-based recommendations, this approach has been surprisingly unsuccessful in reducing CVD risk. This outcome may be explained, in part, by the extreme variability in response to dietary manipulations between individuals and interactions between diet and an individual's genetic background, which are defined by the term 'nutrigenetics'. The shift towards personalised nutritional advice is a very attractive proposition. In principle an individual could be genotyped and given dietary advice specifically tailored to their genetic make-up. Evidence-based research into interactions between fixed genetic variants, nutrient intake and biomarkers of CVD risk is increasing, but still limited. The present paper will review the evidence for interactions between dietary fat and three common polymorphisms in the apoE, apoAI and PPAR gamma genes. Increased knowledge of how these and other genes influence dietary response should increase the understanding of personalised nutrition. While targeted dietary advice may have considerable potential for reducing CVD risk, the ethical issues associated with its routine use need careful consideration.

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The applications of rheology to the main processes encountered during breadmaking (mixing, sheeting, fermentation and baking) are reviewed. The most commonly used rheological test methods and their relationships to product functionality are reviewed. It is shown that the most commonly used method for rheological testing of doughs, shear oscillation dynamic rheology, is generally used under deformation conditions inappropriate for breadmaking and shows little relationship with end-use performance. The frequency range used in conventional shear oscillation tests is limited to the plateau region, which is insensitive to changes in the HMW glutenin polymers thought to be responsible for variations in baking quality. The appropriate deformation conditions can be accessed either by long-time creep or relaxation measurements, or by large deformation extensional measurements at low strain rates and elevated temperatures. Molecular size and structure of the gluten polymers that make up the major structural components of wheat are related to their rheological properties via modern polymer rheology concepts. Interactions between polymer chain entanglements and branching are seen to be the key mechanisms determining the rheology of HMW polymers. Recent work confirms the observation that the dynamic shear plateau modulus is essentially independent of variations in MW of glutens amongst wheat varieties of varying baking performance and also that it is not the size of the soluble glutenin polymers, but the secondary structural and rheological properties of the insoluble polymer fraction that are mainly responsible for variations in baking performance. Extensional strain hardening has been shown to be a sensitive indicator of entanglements and long-chain branching in HMW polymers, and is well related to baking performance of bread doughs. The Considere failure criterion for instability in extension of polymers defines a region below which bubble walls become unstable, and predicts that when strain hardening falls below a value of around 1, bubble walls are no longer stable and coalesce rapidly, resulting in loss of gas retention and lower volume and texture. Strain hardening in doughs has been shown to reach this value at increasingly higher temperatures for better breadmaking varieties and is directly related to bubble stability and baking performance. (C) 2003 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

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Molecular size and structure of the gluten polymers that make up the major structural components of wheat are related to their rheological properties via modem polymer rheology concepts. Interactions between polymer chain entanglements and branching are seen to be the key mechanisms determining the rheology of HMW polymers. Recent work confirms the observation that dynamic shear plateau modulus is essentially independent of variations in MW amongst wheat varieties of varying baking performance and is not related to variations in baking performance, and that it is not the size of the soluble glutenin polymers, but the structural and rheological properties of the insoluble polymer fraction that are mainly responsible for variations in baking performance. The rheological properties of gas cell walls in bread doughs are considered to be important in relation to their stability and gas retention during proof and baking, in particular their extensional strain hardening properties. Large deformation rheological properties of gas cell walls were measured using biaxial extension for a number of doughs of varying breadmaking quality at constant strain rate and elevated temperatures in the range 25-60 degrees C. Strain hardening and failure strain of cell walls were both seen to decrease with temperature, with cell walls in good breadmaking doughs remaining stable and retaining their strain hardening properties to higher temperatures (60 degrees C), whilst the cell walls of poor breadmaking doughs became unstable at lower temperatures (45-50 degrees C) and had lower strain hardening. Strain hardening measured at 50 degrees C gave good correlations with baking volume, with the best correlations achieved between those rheological measurements and baking tests which used similar mixing conditions. As predicted by the Considere failure criterion, a strain hardening value of I defines a region below which gas cell walls become unstable, and discriminates well between the baking quality of a range of commercial flour blends of varying quality. This indicates that the stability of gas cell walls during baking is strongly related to their strain hardening properties, and that extensional rheological measurements can be used as predictors of baking quality. (C) 2004 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

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Molecular size and structure of the gluten polymers that make up the major structural components of wheat are related to their rheological properties via modern polymer rheology concepts. Interactions between polymer chain entanglements and branching are seen to be the key mechanisms determining the rheology of HMW polymers. Recent work confirms the observation that dynamic shear plateau modulus is essentially independent of variations in MW amongst wheat varieties of varying baking performance and is not related to variations in baking performance, and that it is not the size of the soluble glutenin polymers, but the structural and rheological properties of the insoluble polymer fraction that are mainly responsible for variations in baking performance. The rheological properties of gas cell walls in bread doughs are considered to be important in relation to their stability and gas retention during proof and baking, in particular their extensional strain hardening properties. Large deformation rheological properties of gas cell walls were measured using biaxial extension for a number of doughs of varying breadmaking quality at constant strain rate and elevated temperatures in the range 25oC to 60oC. Strain hardening and failure strain of cell walls were both seen to decrease with temperature, with cell walls in good breadmaking doughs remaining stable and retaining their strain hardening properties to higher temperatures (60oC), whilst the cell walls of poor breadmaking doughs became unstable at lower temperatures (45oC to 50oC) and had lower strain hardening. Strain hardening measured at 50oC gave good correlations with baking volume, with the best correlations achieved between those rheological measurements and baking tests which used similar mixing conditions. As predicted by the Considere failure criterion, a strain hardening value of 1 defines a region below which gas cell walls become unstable, and discriminates well between the baking quality of a range of commercial flour blends of varying quality. This indicates that the stability of gas cell walls during baking is strongly related to their strain hardening properties, and that extensional rheological measurements can be used as predictors of baking quality.

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Architectural Fictions was a curatorial project that brought together the work of eight artist that in different ways addressed principles of fictioning and narrative in relation to the built environment. The project brought critical focus to the narrative structures implicit in the production of space. Through dialogue with the participants, the project developed speculative critical exchange, examining questions such as the interplay between the real and the virtual and the role of design in relation to processes of habitation. Architectural Fictions formed a keynote exhibition in South Hill Park Arts Centre program. SHP is funded by the Arts Council England and is in partnership with ARC which delivers events by professionals from the field of art and culture. A public lecture about Architectural Fictions was delivered by Mary Maclean and Tim Renshaw who together make up the group Outside Architecture. Outside Architecture aims to open up speculative dialogues and images on the materials and signs that compose the texture of shared and lived in spaces.

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This paper will present a conceptual framework for the examination of land redevelopment based on a complex systems/networks approach. As Alvin Toffler insightfully noted, modern scientific enquiry has become exceptionally good at splitting problems into pieces but has forgotten how to put the pieces back together. Twenty-five years after his remarks, governments and corporations faced with the requirements of sustainability are struggling to promote an ‘integrated’ or ‘holistic’ approach to tackling problems. Despite the talk, both practice and research provide few platforms that allow for ‘joined up’ thinking and action. With socio-economic phenomena, such as land redevelopment, promising prospects open up when we assume that their constituents can make up complex systems whose emergent properties are more than the sum of the parts and whose behaviour is inherently difficult to predict. A review of previous research shows that it has mainly focused on idealised, ‘mechanical’ views of property development processes that fail to recognise in full the relationships between actors, the structures created and their emergent qualities. When reality failed to live up to the expectations of these theoretical constructs then somebody had to be blamed for it: planners, developers, politicians. However, from a ‘synthetic’ point of view the agents and networks involved in property development can be seen as constituents of structures that perform complex processes. These structures interact, forming new more complex structures and networks. Redevelopment then can be conceptualised as a process of transformation: a complex system, a ‘dissipative’ structure involving developers, planners, landowners, state agencies etc., unlocks the potential of previously used sites, transforms space towards a higher order of complexity and ‘consumes’ but also ‘creates’ different forms of capital in the process. Analysis of network relations point toward the ‘dualism’ of structure and agency in these processes of system transformation and change. Insights from actor network theory can be conjoined with notions of complexity and chaos to build an understanding of the ways in which actors actively seek to shape these structures and systems, whilst at the same time are recursively shaped by them in their strategies and actions. This approach transcends the blame game and allows for inter-disciplinary inputs to be placed within a broader explanatory framework that does away with many past dichotomies. Better understanding of the interactions between actors and the emergent qualities of the networks they form can improve our comprehension of the complex socio-spatial phenomena that redevelopment comprises. The insights that this framework provides when applied in UK institutional investment into redevelopment are considered to be significant.

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In 1999, Elizabeth Hills pointed up the challenges that physically active women on film still posed, in cultural terms, and in relation to certain branches of feminist theory . Since then, a remarkable number of emphatically active female heroes have appeared on screen, from 'Charlie’s Angels' to 'Resident Evil', 'Aeon Flux', and the 'Matrix' and 'X-Men' trilogies. Nevertheless, in a contemporary Western culture frequently characterised as postfeminist, these seem to be the ‘acceptable face’ – and body – of female empowerment: predominantly white, heterosexual, often scantily clad, with the traditional hero’s toughness and resolve re-imagined in terms of gender-biased notions of decorum: grace and dignity alongside perfect hair and make-up, and a body that does not display unsightly markers of physical exertion. The homogeneity of these representations is worth investigating in relation to critical claims that valorise such air-brushed, high-kicking 'action babes' for their combination of sexiness and strength, and the feminist and postfeminist discourses that are refracted through such readings. Indeed, this arguably ‘safe’ set of depictions, dovetailing so neatly with certain postfeminist notions of ‘having it all’, suppresses particular kinds of spectacles in relation to the active female body: images of physical stress and extension, biological consequences of violence and dangerous motivations are all absent. I argue that the untidy female exertions refused in popular “action babe” representations are now erupting into view in a number of other contemporaneous movies – 'Kill Bill' Vols 1 & 2, 'Monster', and 'Hard Candy' – that mark the return of that which is repressed in the mainstream vision of female power – that is, a more viscerally realistic physicality, rage and aggression. As such, these films engage directly with the issue of how to represent violent female agency. This chapter explores what is at stake at a representational level and in terms of spectatorial processes of identification in the return of this particularly visceral rendering of the female avenger.

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This paper evaluates the implications of Osama bin Ladin’s death for the future of al-Qaeda’s global jihad. It critically examines the debate as to the make-up of the group and identifies bin Ladin’s primary role as chief ideologue advocating a defensive jihad to liberate the umma. The rationale and appeal of bin Ladin’s message and Muslims’ reaction to both his statements and al-Qaeda’s increasing use of sectarian violence are assessed in the context of Pan-Islam as political ideology. The paper concludes that while the ideal of Islamic unity and the sentiment of Muslim solidarity are unlikely to vanish, al-Qaeda’s violent jihad has not only failed to achieve these goals but has worked against it, thereby confining it to the political margins.

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“Point and click” interactions remain one of the key features of graphical user interfaces (GUIs). People with motion-impairments, however, can often have difficulty with accurate control of standard pointing devices. This paper discusses work that aims to reveal the nature of these difficulties through analyses that consider the cursor’s path of movement. A range of cursor measures was applied, and a number of them were found to be significant in capturing the differences between able-bodied users and motion-impaired users, as well as the differences between a haptic force feedback condition and a control condition. The cursor measures found in the literature, however, do not make up a comprehensive list, but provide a starting point for analysing cursor movements more completely. Six new cursor characteristics for motion-impaired users are introduced to capture aspects of cursor movement different from those already proposed.

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Dynamic multi-user interactions in a single networked virtual environment suffer from abrupt state transition problems due to communication delays arising from network latency--an action by one user only becoming apparent to another user after the communication delay. This results in a temporal suspension of the environment for the duration of the delay--the virtual world `hangs'--followed by an abrupt jump to make up for the time lost due to the delay so that the current state of the virtual world is displayed. These discontinuities appear unnatural and disconcerting to the users. This paper proposes a novel method of warping times associated with users to ensure that each user views a continuous version of the virtual world, such that no hangs or jumps occur despite other user interactions. Objects passed between users within the environment are parameterized, not by real time, but by a virtual local time, generated by continuously warping real time. This virtual time periodically realigns itself with real time as the virtual environment evolves. The concept of a local user dynamically warping the local time is also introduced. As a result, the users are shielded from viewing discontinuities within their virtual worlds, consequently enhancing the realism of the virtual environment.

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Design support for typeface design: collaborative work commissioned by Adobe, Inc. Published 2011. The original Bickham typeface was based on the hands of the 18th century writing master George Bickham. The ornate script represented the apogee of the art of formal writing with a steel nib, and defined the visual style for decorated, formal documents. In 2010 Adobe revised and extended the typeface, with the express purpose of making it a showcase for OpenType technology, demonstrating the visual importance of using different glyph forms in different contexts, employing contextual substitution rules. Although Bickham had published a single example of a Greek style, it was a standalone exercise, never intended to match the Latin. The key challenge was to identify historical records for appropriate Greek writing, preferably by writers familiar with the language, adapt them for digital typography and the particularities of contextual substitution, in a manner that would not make the Greek a ‘second-class citizen’. Research involved uncovering and analysing appropriate contemporary and later writing examples to identify both the range of writing styles of the period, and the manner of joining letters in written Greek with both pointed pens and broad nibs. This work was essential to make up for the comparative lack of relevant material by Bickham, as well as investigating the possible range of stylistic variants that were approved for the final typeface, which attempted to emulate a written texture through complex substitutions. This aspect of the work is highly original for implementing a substantial number of contextual alternates and ligatures. These were reviewed in the context of use, bringing together an analysis of occurring letter combinations and patterns, and the design of stylistic alternates to imitate natural handwriting.

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Background Many biominerals form from amorphous calcium carbonate (ACC), but this phase is highly unstable when synthesised in its pure form inorganically. Several species of earthworm secrete calcium carbonate granules which contain highly stable ACC. We analysed the milky fluid from which granules form and solid granules for amino acid (by liquid chromatography) and functional group (by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy) compositions. Granule elemental composition was determined using inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectroscopy (ICP-OES) and electron microprobe analysis (EMPA). Mass of ACC present in solid granules was quantified using FTIR and compared to granule elemental and amino acid compositions. Bulk analysis of granules was of powdered bulk material. Spatially resolved analysis was of thin sections of granules using synchrotron-based μ-FTIR and EMPA electron microprobe analysis. Results The milky fluid from which granules form is amino acid-rich (≤ 136 ± 3 nmol mg−1 (n = 3; ± std dev) per individual amino acid); the CaCO3 phase present is ACC. Even four years after production, granules contain ACC. No correlation exists between mass of ACC present and granule elemental composition. Granule amino acid concentrations correlate well with ACC content (r ≥ 0.7, p ≤ 0.05) consistent with a role for amino acids (or the proteins they make up) in ACC stabilisation. Intra-granule variation in ACC (RSD = 16%) and amino acid concentration (RSD = 22–35%) was high for granules produced by the same earthworm. Maps of ACC distribution produced using synchrotron-based μ-FTIR mapping of granule thin sections and the relative intensity of the ν2: ν4 peak ratio, cluster analysis and component regression using ACC and calcite standards showed similar spatial distributions of likely ACC-rich and calcite-rich areas. We could not identify organic peaks in the μ-FTIR spectra and thus could not determine whether ACC-rich domains also had relatively high amino acid concentrations. No correlation exists between ACC distribution and elemental concentrations determined by EMPA. Conclusions ACC present in earthworm CaCO3 granules is highly stable. Our results suggest a role for amino acids (or proteins) in this stability. We see no evidence for stabilisation of ACC by incorporation of inorganic components.

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To effectively prevent the onset and reduce mortality from noncommunicable diseases, we must consider every individual as metabolically unique to allow for a personalized management to take place. Diet and gut microbiota are major components of the exposome that interact together with a genetic make-up in a complex interplay to result in an individual’s metabolic phenotype. In this context, foodomics approaches (such as nutrigenetics, nutrimetabolomics, nutritranscriptomics, nutriproteomics and metagenomics) are essential tools to assess an individual’s optimal metabolic space. These have recently been applied to large human cohorts to identify specific gene-metabolite, diet-metabolite and gene–diet interactions. As the gut microbiota is a key player in metabolic homeostasis, we suggest following a holistic investigation of metagenome–hyperbolome–diet interactions, the findings of which will provide the basis for developing personalized nutrition and personalized functional foods. However, examining these three-way interactions will only be possible when the challenge of large datasets integration will be overcome.