Moden unter besonderer Berücksichtigung der Rolle von Neuheit - am Beispiel der Bekleidung

Verschiedene Bedeutungen sind mit dem Begriff Mode verbunden. Mode ist nicht ausschließlich ein Synonym für Bekleidung. Vielmehr bezeichnet Mode den ständigen Wandel kollektiver Verhaltensweisen und bildet damit das Gegenstück zu Traditionen. Die Vergänglichkeit einer Mode ist ebenso Merkmal wie ein Verhalten, daß aus der Interaktion der Menschen resultiert. Mode läßt sich als exogener Schock modelliert oder durch endogene Prozesse erzeugt abbilden. Im synergetischen Modell erzeugen Personen auf der Makroebene bestimmte Ordner, die als Moden interpretiert werden können und an denen sich die Individuen wiederum orientieren. Neben einer umfassenden Betrachtung des Terminus Mode wird der Stand der sozial- und wirtschaftswissenschaftlichen Forschung zur Erklärung von Mode referiert. Ausgangspunkt der Dissertation ist das Fehlen eines ökonomischen Erklärungsansatzes der Mode, der unter Berücksichtigung der wesentlichsten Motive menschlichen Handelns die Vielseitigkeit dieses kollektiven Phänomens in einem mathematischen Modell abbildet. Ein solches Modell wird in der Arbeit entwickelt. Neben den sozial abhängigen Verhaltensweisen, die ein fundamentales Wesensmerkmal der Mode darstellen, gilt dem Aspekt der Neuheit im Kontext der Mode besondere Aufmerksamkeit. Auf das Problem, Neugierdeverhalten und Neuheit zu modellieren, wird detailliert eingegangen. Es ist weder Ziel der Arbeit, den Ursprung der inhaltlichen Ausgestaltung einer Mode zu identifizieren, noch die konkreten Entstehungszusammenhänge von Neuheit herauszuarbeiten. Vielmehr wird der Wirkungszusammenhang von Neuem im Kontext der Mode analysiert, um verschiedene Entstehungszusammenhänge von Mode darstellen zu können. Außerdem wird eine eigene empirische Studie zum Verhalten von Personen in bezug auf Kleidung und deren Neuartigkeit vorgestellt. Die Erhebungsdaten werden mit Hilfe der sogenannten Kohonenkarte klassifiziert, wobei insbesondere nichtlineare Zusammenhänge zwischen den Variablen berücksichtigt werden können. Im Rahmen eines synergetischen Erklärungsansatzes ist diese Karte deshalb von großem Interesse, weil sie sich selbst organisiert und deshalb dem synergetischen Erklärungsansatz modelladäquat ist.

Opportunities and constraints of peri-urban buffalo and dairy cattle systems in Faisalabad, Punjab, Pakistan

In the big cities of Pakistan, peri-urban dairy production plays an important role for household income generation and the supply of milk and meat to the urban population. On the other hand, milk production in general, and peri-urban dairy production in particular, faces numerous problems that have been well known for decades. Peri-urban dairy producers have been especially neglected by politicians as well as non-government-organizations (NGOs). Against this background, a study in Pakistan’s third largest city, Faisalabad (Punjab Province), was carried out with the aims of gathering basic information, determining major constraints and identifying options for improvements of the peri-urban milk production systems. For data collection, 145 peri-urban households (HH) engaged in dairy production were interviewed face to face using a structured and pretested questionnaire with an interpreter. For analyses, HH were classified into three wealth groups according to their own perception. Thus, 38 HH were poor, 95 HH well off and 12 HH rich (26.2%, 65.5% and 8.3%, respectively). The richer the respondents perceived their HH, the more frequently they were actually in possession of high value HH assets like phones, bank accounts, motorbikes, tractors and cars. Although there was no difference between the wealth groups with respect to the number of HH members (about 10, range: 1 to 23), the educational level of the HH heads differed significantly: on average, heads of poor HH had followed education for 3 years, compared to 6 years for well off HH and 8 years for rich HH. About 40% of the poor and well off HH also had off-farm incomes, while the percentage was much higher - two thirds (67%) - for the rich HH. The majority of the HH were landless (62%); the rest (55 HH) possessed agricultural land from 0.1 to 10.1 ha (average 2.8 ha), where they were growing green fodder: maize, sorghum and pearl millet in summer; berseem, sugar cane and wheat were grown in winter. Dairy animals accounted for about 60% of the herds; the number of dairy animals per HH ranged from 2 to 50 buffaloes (Nili-Ravi breed) and from 0 to 20 cows (mostly crossbred, also Sahiwal). About 37% (n=54) of the HH did not keep cattle. About three quarters of the dairy animals were lactating. The majority of the people taking care of the animals were family workers; 17.3% were hired labourers (exclusively male), employed by 11 rich and 32 well off HH; none of the poor HH employed workers, but the percentages were 33.7% for the well off and 91.7% for the rich HH. The total number of workers increased significantly with increasing wealth (poor: 2.0; well off:2.5; rich: 3.4). Overall, 69 female labourers were recorded, making up 16.8% of employed workers and one fourth of the HH’s own labourers. Apparently, their only duty was to clean the animals´ living areas; only one of them was also watering and showering the animals. Poor HH relied more on female workers than the other two groups: 27.1% of the workers of poor HH were women, but only 14.8% and 6.8% of the labour force of well off and rich HH were female. Two thirds (70%) of the HH sold milk to dhodis (middlemen) and one third (35%) to neighbours; three HH (2%) did doorstep delivery and one HH (1%) had its own shop. The 91 HH keeping both species usually sold mixed milk (97%). Clients for mixed and pure buffalo milk were dhodis (78%, respectively 59%) and neighbours (28%, respectively 47%). The highest milk prices per liter (Pakistani Rupees, 100 PKR @ 0.8 Euro) were paid by alternative clients (44 PKR; 4 HH), followed by neighbours (40 PKR, 50 HH); dhodis paid lower prices (36 PKR, 99 HH). Prices for pure buffalo and mixed milk did not differ significantly. However, HH obtaining the maximum price from the respective clients for the respective type of milk got between 20% (mixed milk, alternative clients) and 68% (mixed milk, dhodi) more than HH fetching the minimum price. Some HH (19%) reported 7% higher prices for the current summer than the preceding winter. Amount of milk sold and distance from the HH to the city center did not influence milk prices. Respondents usually named problems that directly affected their income and that were directly and constantly visible to them, such as high costs, little space and fodder shortages. Other constraints that are only influencing their income indirectly, e.g. the relatively low genetic potential of their animals due to neglected breeding as well as the short- and long-term health problems correlated with imbalanced feeding and insufficient health care, were rarely named. The same accounts for problems accompanying improper dung management (storage, disposal, burning instead of recycling) for the environment and human health. Most of the named problems are linked to each other and should be addressed within the context of the entire system. Therefore, further research should focus on systematic investigations and improvement options, taking a holistic and interdisciplinary approach instead of only working in single fields. Concerted efforts of dairy farmers, researchers, NGOs and political decision makers are necessary to create an economic, ecological and social framework that allows dairy production to serve the entire society. For this, different improvement options should be tested in terms of their impact on environment and income of the farmers, as well as feasibility and sustainability in the peri-urban zones of Faisalabad.