Buying Britney : pop culture icons to cultural brands

This thesis demonstrates that mUSIC stars who attain cultural icon status heavily contribute to the fashion styles of the time. Where as style and music have always had a connection, icons such as Britney Spears are now dictating popular style so much so that music artists are becoming full-fledged fashion designers. While much analysis is devoted to Britney Spears, her largest contributions do not lie in the rise of teenage sexuality, but in establishing music artists as vehicles of consumption. The artists' signature has now become a brand and ~ term "signabrand" has been created to define such a trend. To understand such a shift, a review of past literature devoted to fashion and music, largely consisting of subculture theory is examined, followed by a combination of content analysis, political economy, fashion and postmodem theory to address how music stars attain icon status and guide style.

"I might be a duck, but I'm human" : an analysis of clothing in Disney cartoons

Mickey Mouse, one of the world's most recognizable cartoon characters, did not wear a shirt in his earliest incarnation in theatrical shorts and, for many years, Donald Duck did not wear pants and still rarely does so. Especially when one considers the era in which these figures were first created by the Walt Disney Studio, in the 1920s and 1930s, why are they portrayed without full clothing? The obvious answer, of course, is that they are animals, and animals do not wear clothes. But these are no ordinary animals: in most cases, they do wear clothing - some clothing, at least - and they walk on two legs, talk in a more or less intelligible fashion, and display a number of other anthropomorphic traits. If they are essentially animals, why do they wear clothing at all? On the other hand, if these characters are more human than animal, as suggested by other behavioral traits - they walk, talk, work, read, and so on - why are they not more often fully clothed? To answer these questions I undertook three major research strategies used to gather evidence: interpretive textual analysis of 321 cartoons; secondary analysis of interviews conducted with the animators who created the Disney characters; and historical and archival research on the Disney Company and on the times and context in which it functioned. I was able to identify five themes that played a large part in what kind of clothing a character wore; first, the character's gender and/or sexuality; second, what species or "race" the character was; third, the character's socio-economic status; fourth, the degree to which the character was anthropomorphized; and, fifth, the context in which the character and its clothing appeared in a particular scene or narrative. I concluded that all of these factors played a part in determining, to some extent, the clothing worn by particular characters at particular times. However, certain patterns emerged from the analysis that could not be explained by these factors alone or in combination. Therefore, my analysis also investigates the individual and collective attitudes and desires of the men in the Disney studio who were responsible for creating these characters and the cultural conditions under which they were created. Drawing on literature from the psychoanalytic approach to film studies, I argue that the clothing choices spoke to an idealized fantasy world to which the animators (most importantly, Walt Disney himself), and possibly wider society, wanted to return.

Self concept, acculturation, and fashion orientation

The research begins with a discussion of the worldwide and the Canadian market. The research profiles the examination of the relationship between a person's self concept (as defined by Malhotra) and fashion orientation (as defined by Gutman and Mills), and to understand how these factors are influenced by acculturation, focusing in-depth on their managerial implications. To study these relationships; a random sample of 196 ChineseCanadian female university students living in Canada was given a survey based on Malhotra's self-concept scale, and the SLASIA acculturation scale. Based on multiple regression analysis, findings suggest that the adoption of language and social interaction dimensions of acculturation constructs have significant effects on the relationship between self concept and fashion orientation. This research contributes significantly to both marketing theory and practice. Theoretically, this research develops new insights on the dimensionality of fashion orientation, identifies various moderating effects of acculturation on the relationship of self concept and fashion orientation dimensions, and provides a framework to examine these effects, where results can be generalized across different culture. Practically, marketers can use available findings to improve their understanding of the fashion needs of Chinese-Canadian consumers, and target them based on these findings. The findings provide valuable implications for companies to formulate their fashion marketing strategies for enhance fashion orientation in terms of different dimensions, based on different levels of acculturation.

Sustainability, Fashion Design, and Consumerism: Undergraduate Entry Level Fashion Students' Knowledge, Attitudes, and Habits

This qualitative inquiry explored 7 undergraduate students' attitudes, habits, and knowledge of consumerism, fashion design, and sustainability. The postmodern study employed crystallization as its methodological framework to gain insight into how participants' knowledge is manifested in their daily habits, and used 4 methods of data gathering: semistructured interviews, visual exercises, journal entries, and the researcher's own reflections. Four major themes emerged: Knowledge-Concepts Linked and Fragmented; Dissonance Between Knowledge Versus Attitudes and Consumer Habits; Surrendering to the Unsustainable Structures; Design Process and Caring Attitude. Findings indicate that participants possessed some knowledge of sustainability but lacked a well-rounded understanding of environmental and humanitarian implications of Western consumer society. Findings also reveal a dissonance between participants' knowledge and attitudes-affecting how their knowledge influences their behaviour-and how reflection, creative thinking, and drawing initiate change in participants' underlying attitudes. Recommendations are made to merge a variety of theoretical frameworks into the educational system in order to create curricula that offer a holistic overview and unique insights into sustainability challenges, particularly in specialized areas of the fashion industry.

The challenges and successful strategies of secondary school administrators /

This study presents information gathered during personal interviews in the area of challenges that administrators have faced in their careers, and the strategies they have found to be successful in meeting those challenges. This research is a qualitative study, using an inductive approach. Five participants were chosen, based on convenience sampling, with semi-structured interviews that were audio recorded. The theoretical research found that school violence and stafS'school morale were key challenges facing administrators, with a variety of approaches suggested to foster success in meeting those challenges. Some of these approaches included knowledge, team work, an ethic of care, and having a school vision. From the interviews it became clear that the challenges administrators faced included those posed by students, including disciplinary issues, those posed by adults and those posed by government changes in education. In regards to strategies for success, the interviews revealed three key concepts that were emphasized as vital. These were the assets of craft knowledge (experience), collegiality, and the use of other professional resources and educators.

School funding and education policy-making models in Ontario /

The purpose of this thesis is to examine various policy implementation models, and to determine what use they are to a government. In order to insure that governmental proposals are created and exercised in an effective manner, there roust be some guidelines in place which will assist in resolving difficult situations. All governments face the challenge of responding to public demand, by delivering the type of policy responses that will attempt to answer those demands. The problem for those people in positions of policy-making responsibility is to balance the competitive forces that would influence policy. This thesis examines provincial government policy in two unique cases. The first is the revolutionary recommendations brought forth in the Hall -Dennis Report. The second is the question of extending full -funding to the end of high school in the separate school system. These two cases illustrate how divergent and problematic the policy-making duties of any government may be. In order to respond to these political challenges decision-makers must have a clear understanding of what they are attempting to do. They must also have an assortment of policy-making models that will insure a policy response effectively deals with the issue under examination. A government must make every effort to insure that all policymaking methods are considered, and that the data gathered is inserted into the most appropriate model. Currently, there is considerable debate over the benefits of the progressive individualistic education approach as proposed by the Hall -Dennis Committee. This debate is usually intensified during periods of economic uncertainty. Periodically, the province will also experience brief yet equally intense debate on the question of separate school funding. At one level, this debate centres around the efficiency of maintaining two parallel education systems, but the debate frequently has undertones of the religious animosity common in Ontario's history. As a result of the two policy cases under study we may ask ourselves these questions: a) did the policies in question improve the general quality of life in the province? and b) did the policies unite the province? In the cases of educational instruction and finance the debate is ongoing and unsettling. Currently, there is a widespread belief that provincial students at the elementary and secondary levels of education are not being educated adequately to meet the challenges of the twenty-first century. The perceived culprit is individual education which sees students progressing through the system at their own pace and not meeting adequate education standards. The question of the finance of Catholic education occasionally rears its head in a painful fashion within the province. Some public school supporters tend to take extension as a personal religious defeat, rather than an opportunity to demonstrate that educational diversity can be accommodated within Canada's most populated province. This thesis is an attempt to analyze how successful provincial policy-implementation models were in answering public demand. A majority of the public did not demand additional separate school funding, yet it was put into place. The same majority did insist on an examination of educational methods, and the government did put changes in place. It will also demonstrate how policy if wisely created may spread additional benefits to the public at large. Catholic students currently enjoy a much improved financial contribution from the province, yet these additional funds were taken from somewhere. The public system had it funds reduced with what would appear to be minimal impact. This impact indicates that government policy is still sensitive to the strongly held convictions of those people in opposition to a given policy.

The new woman, femininity and modernity in Margery Allingham's detective novels of the 1930s /

This thesis examines Death of a Ghost (1934), Flowers for the Judge (1935), Dancers in Mourning (1937), and The Fashion in Shrouds (1938), a group of detective novels by Margery Allingham that are differentiated from her other work by their generic hybridity. The thesis argues that the hybrid nature of this group of Campion novels enabled a highly skilled and insightful writer such as Allingham to negotiate the contradictory notions about the place of women that characterized the 1930s, and that in dOing so, she revealed the potential of one of the most popular and accessible genres, the detective novel of manners, to engage its readers in a serious cultural dialogue. The thesis also suggests that there is a connection between Allingham's exploration of modernity and femininity within these four novels and her personal circumstances. This argument is predicated upon the assumption that during the interwar period in England several social and cultural attitudes converged to challenge long-held beliefs about gender roles and class structure; that the real impact of this convergence was felt during the 1930s by the generation that had come of age in the previous decade-Margery Allingham's generation; and that that generation's ambivalence and confusion were reflected in the popular fiction of the decade. These attitudes were those of twentieth-century modernity--contradiction, discontinuity, fragmentation, contingency-and in the context of this study they are incorporated in a literary hybrid. Allingham uses this combination of the classical detective story and the novel of manners to examine the notion of femininity by juxtaposing the narrative of a longstanding patriarchal and hierarchical culture, embodied in the image of the Angel in the House, with that of the relatively recent rights and freedoms represented by the New Woman of the late nineteenth-century. Pierre Bourdieu's theory of social difference forms the theoretical foundation of the thesis's argument that through these conflicting narratives, as well as through the lives of her female characters, Allingham questioned the Hsocial myth" of the time, a prevailing view that, since the First World War, attitudes toward the appropriate role and sphere of women had changed.

Structural studies and gabbro mylonitization within the Barton Bay Deformation Zone, Geraldton, Ontario /

Structures related to ductile siMple shear parallel to the Bankf ield-Tonbill Fault, define a 5km wide zone, the Barton Bay Deformation Zone. Structures present within this zone Include; simple shear fabrics S, C and C , asymmetric Z shaped folds with rotated axes, boudinage and pinch and swell structures and a subhorlzontal extension llneation. The most highly deformed rock is a gabbro mylonite which occurs in the fault zone. The deformation of this gabbro has been traced in stages from a protomylonite to an ultramylonite In which feldspar and chlorite grainslze has been reduced from over 100 microns to as little as 5 microns. Evidence from the mylonite and the surrounding structure indicates that deformation within the Barton Bay Deformation Zone is related to a regional simple shear zone, the Bankf ield-Tombill Fault. Movement along this shear zone was in a south over north oblique strike slip fashion with a dextral sense of displacement.

Expression and function of endothelin and its receptors in vascular adventitial fibroblasts

Objective: The adventitia has been recognized to play important roles in vascular oxidative stress, remodelling and contraction. We recently demonstrated that adventitial fibroblasts are able to express endothelin-1 (ET-1) in response to angiotensin II (ANG II). However, the mechanisms by which ANG II induces ET-1 expression are unknown. It is also unclear whether the ET-1 receptors are expressed in the adventitia. We therefore examined the role of oxidative stress in the regulation of ET-1. We also investigated the expression of both the ETA and ETB receptors and the roles of these two types of receptors in collagen synthesis and ET-1 clearance in adventitial fibroblasts. Methods and Results: Adventitial fibroblasts were isolated and cultured from the thoracic mouse aorta. Cells were treated with ANG II (lOOnM), ET-1 (lOpM), NADPH oxidase inhibitor apocynin (lOOfiM), the superoxide anion scavenger tempol (lOOfiM), the ANG II receptor antagonists (100[aM), losartan (AT| receptor) and PD 1233 19 (AT2 receptor), the ET-1 receptor antagonists (lOOuM), BQ123 (ETA receptor) and BQ788 (ETB receptor), and the ETB receptor agonist (lOOnM) Sarafotoxin 6C. ET-1 peptide levels were determined by ELISA, while ETA ,ETB and collagen levels were determined by Western blot. ANG II increased ET-1 peptide levels in a time-dependent manner reaching significance when incubated for 24 hours. NAD(P)H oxidase inhibitor, apocynin, as well as the superoxide scanverger, tempol, significantly reduced ANG Il-induced ET-1 peptide levels while over-expression of SOD1 (endogenous antioxidant enzyme) significantly decreased ANG Il-induced collagen I expression, therefore implicating reactive oxygen species in the mediation of ET-1. ANG II increased ETA receptor protein as well as collagen in a similar fashion, reaching significance after 4, 6, and 24 hours treatment. ANG II induced collagen was reduced while in the presence of the ETA receptor antagonist suggesting the role of the ETa receptor in the regulation of the extracellular matrix. ANG II treatment also increased ETB receptor protein levels in a time-dependent manner. ANG II treatment in the presence of the ETB receptor antagonist significantly increased ET-1 peptide levels. On another hand, the ETB receptor agonist, Sarafotoxin 6C, significantly decreased ET-1 peptide levels. These data implicate the role of the ETb receptor in the clearance of the ET-1 peptide. Conclusion: ANG II-induced increases of ET-1 peptide appears to be mediated by reactive oxygen species derived from NAD(P)H oxidase. Both the ETA and ETB receptors are expressed in adventitial fibroblasts. The ETA receptor subtype mediates collagen I expression, while the ETB receptor may play a protective role through increasing the clearance of the ET- 1 peptide.

Perceptions of creativity in a fashion design course /

Creativity is important to the growth and development of society, to educational institutions, and to the personal growth of individuals. Students who are aware of their creativity are assumed to have innovative ideas and fresh insights. Limited research has been conducted to see if students can identify their own creative abilities. In this study, I explored the students' perceptions and experiences in a fashion design course. This study documented the creative journey from the concept stage of an apparel collection to the final product. Participants were asked to reflect and document their creative moments, describe a creative process, and identify a creative environment. The participants were students who were enrolled in a fashion design course and were asked to participate in this study because they experienced all stages of the design process. Data were collected through personal reflection surveys, focus groups, and personal interviews. Themes of creative moments that emerged from this study were experiences that the participants had as they proceeded through the stages of the fashion design process. All of the participants identified a creative process, but the stages varied for each participant The participants identified themes related to promoting creativity in an environment, including the atmosphere, creative people, teachers, reflection, student needs, and assignments. The participants identified potential barriers in an environment, including rules and guidelines, teachers, the classroom, deadlines and time, feedback, and other important issues. The results ofthis study suggest that there needs to be a better understanding of creativity and greater support and encouragement for creativity in the classroom. Instructors need to support environments that are conducive to creative development and lead to effective learning for students. Students need to learn how to enhance their creativity as well as understand the barriers that block their creative development.

An exploration of gifted and highly able adolescents' experiences with stress and coping /

This narrative case study explored gifted and highly able adolescents' experiences with stress and coping. Nine students, ages 13-18, at 2 independent schools in southern Ontario, participated. They completed the Adolescent Coping Scale (Frydenberg & Lewis, 1993), and I generated individualized graphs of coping strategies. Participants talked about experiences they perceived as stressful in their academic, personal, social, and familial settings during a 60-90 minute one-on-one audiotaped interview. During the interview, each participant made observations about their own coping strategies profile. The interview was analyzed to identify stressor and coping themes. Participants completed a writing or art task to record perceptions of stress and coping. The 3 data sources were used to craft 9 individual story portraits, from which 5 main stressor themes emerged: issues of time; relationships, emotions, and communication; ethical, moral, and spiritual issues; global issues; and silences, or stressors not talked about in depth. Coping themes were: seeking relaxing activities; having positive attitudes and making wise choices; maintaining relationships with peers and family; understanding the role of faith and moral beliefs; having a supportive environment; knowing your own personality type; being aware of negative coping strategies; and keeping busy and avoiding stressfiil issues. The narratives are important because they present teenagers talking about their socioemotional worlds. The present findings provide empirical groundwork for curriculum development in affective education and highlight the importance of socioemotional development for future research in the area of giftedness and adolescence.

Ionic regulation in goldfish, Carassius auratus, acclimated to constant and diurnally-cycling temperature conditions

The effects of a diurnal sine-wave temperature cycle (250 +- 5° C) on the wa terI-e etc r o1 yt est a t us 0 f gol df1' Sh , Carassius auratus, was assessed through determination of Na+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cl- and water content in plasma, Red blood cells and muscle tissue. Animals were also acclimated to o 0 0 static temperatures (20 C, 25 c, 30 C) corresponding to the high, low and mid-ooint temperatures of the cycle. All groups were sampled at 03:00, 09:00, 15:00 and 21:00 hr. Hemoglobin content and packed cell volume, as well as electrolyte and 'water levels were determined for each animal and red cell ion concentrations and ion : hemoglobin ratios estimated. Cycled animals were distinct from those at constant temperatures in several respects. Hematological parameters were elevated above those of animals at constant temperature and were, on a diurnal basis, more stable. Red blood cell electrolyte levels varied in an adaptively appropriate fashion to cycle temperatures. This was not the case in the constant temperature groups_ Under the cycling regime, plasma ion levels were more diurnally stable than those of constant temperature fish. Although muscle parameters in cycled fish exhibited more fluctuation than was observed in plasma, these also tended to be relatively more stable than was the caseErythrocytic data are discussed in terms of their effects on hemoglobin-oxygen affinity while plasma and muscle observations were considered from the standpoint of overall water-electrolyte balance. In general, cycled fish appeared to be capable of stabilizing overall body fluid composition, while simultaneously effecting adaptively-appropriate modifications in the erythrocytic ionic microenvironment of hemoglobin. The sometimes marked diurnal variability of water-electrolyte status in animals held at constant temperature as opposed to the conservation of cycled fish suggests that this species is, in some fashion, programmed for regulation in a thermally-fluctuating environment. If this interpretation is valid and a phenomenon of general occurrence, some earlier studies involving constant acclimation of eurythermal species normally occupying habitats which vary in temperature on a daily basis may require reconsideration. at constant temperature.

A demonstration of educational craft : an outdoor educator's autoethnography

Ellis (2004) argues that auto ethnography is a methodology that begins with the researcher as the site of study. Employing a qualitative storytelling structure shows, instead of tells. As the audience reads, they are encouraged to relate the research to their experiences, provoking reflective knowledge development. As an outdoor educator, I began to question the nature of my craft and how it was being shaped by my personal educational philosophy. So, drawing on a reflective journal I kept while employed as an outdoor educator in 2007, three outdoor educators published narratives, and a historical review of newspaper articles about Ontario-based outdoor education, conducted an autoethnographic inquiry and built a fictional story about my craft. I exposed five faultlines or areas of ideological tension, shaping my views about outdoor education and my craft.

Neuromuscular adaptations in endurance-trained boys and men

Competitive sports participation in youth is becoming increasingly more common in the Western world. It is widely accepted that sports participation, specifically endurance training, is beneficial for physical, psychomotor, and social development of children. The research on the effect of endurance training in children has focused mainly on healthrelated benefits and physiological adaptations, particularly on maximal oxygen uptake. However, corresponding research on neuromuscular adaptations to endurance training and the latter's possible effects on muscle strength in youth is lacking. In children and adults, resistance training can enhance strength and mcrease muscle activation. However, data on the effect of endurance training on strength and neuromuscular adaptations are limited. While some evidence exists demonstrating increased muscle activation and possibly increased strength in endurance athletes compared with untrained adults, the neuromuscular adaptations to endurance training in children have not been examined. Thus, the purpose of this study was to examine maximal isometric torque and rate of torque development (RID), along with the pattern of muscle activation during elbow and knee flexion and extension in muscle-endurancetrained and untrained men and boys. Subjects included 65 males: untrained boys (n=18), endurance-trained boys (n=12), untrained men (n=20) and endurance-trained men (n=15). Maximal isometric torque and rate of torque development were measured using an isokinetic dynamometer (Biodex III), and neuromuscular activation was assessed using surface electromyography (SEMG). Muscle strength and activation were assessed in the dominant arm and leg, in a cross-balanced fashion during elbow and knee flexion and extension. The main variables included peak torque (T), RTD, rate of muscle activation (Q30), Electro-mechanical delay (EMD), time to peak RTD and co-activation index. Age differences in T, RTD, electro-mechanical delay (EMD) and rate of muscle activation (Q30) were consistently observed in the four contractions tested. Additionally, Q30, nonnalized for peak EMG amplitude, was consistently higher in the endurancetrained men compared with untrained men. Co-activation index was generally low in all contractions. For example, during maximal voluntary isometric knee extension, men were stronger, had higher RTD and Q30, whether absolute or nonnalized values were used. Moreover, boys exhibited longer EMD (64.8 ± 18.5 ms vs. 56.6 ± 15.3 ms, for boys and men respectively) and time to peak RTD (112.4 ± 33.4 ms vs. 100.8 ± 39.1 ms for boys and men, respectively). In addition, endurance-trained men had lower T compared with untrained men, yet they also exhibited significantly higher nonnalized Q30 (1.9 ± 1.2 vs. 1.1 ± 0.7 for endurance-trained men and untrained men, respectively). No training effect was apparent in the boys. In conclusion, the findings demonstrate muscle strength and activation to be lower in children compared with adults, regardless of training status. The higher Q30 of the endurance-trained men suggests neural adaptations, similar to those expected in response to resistance training. The lower peak torque may su9gest a higher relative involvement oftype I muscle fibres in the endurance-trained athletes. Future research is required to better understand the effect of growth and development on muscle strength and activation patterns during dynamic and sub-maximal isometric contractions. Furthennore, training intervention studies could reveal the effects of endurance training during different developmental stages, as well as in different muscle groups.