4 resultados para Clothing and dress--Religious aspects--Islam--Early works to 1800

em Brock University, Canada


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Mickey Mouse, one of the world's most recognizable cartoon characters, did not wear a shirt in his earliest incarnation in theatrical shorts and, for many years, Donald Duck did not wear pants and still rarely does so. Especially when one considers the era in which these figures were first created by the Walt Disney Studio, in the 1920s and 1930s, why are they portrayed without full clothing? The obvious answer, of course, is that they are animals, and animals do not wear clothes. But these are no ordinary animals: in most cases, they do wear clothing - some clothing, at least - and they walk on two legs, talk in a more or less intelligible fashion, and display a number of other anthropomorphic traits. If they are essentially animals, why do they wear clothing at all? On the other hand, if these characters are more human than animal, as suggested by other behavioral traits - they walk, talk, work, read, and so on - why are they not more often fully clothed? To answer these questions I undertook three major research strategies used to gather evidence: interpretive textual analysis of 321 cartoons; secondary analysis of interviews conducted with the animators who created the Disney characters; and historical and archival research on the Disney Company and on the times and context in which it functioned. I was able to identify five themes that played a large part in what kind of clothing a character wore; first, the character's gender and/or sexuality; second, what species or "race" the character was; third, the character's socio-economic status; fourth, the degree to which the character was anthropomorphized; and, fifth, the context in which the character and its clothing appeared in a particular scene or narrative. I concluded that all of these factors played a part in determining, to some extent, the clothing worn by particular characters at particular times. However, certain patterns emerged from the analysis that could not be explained by these factors alone or in combination. Therefore, my analysis also investigates the individual and collective attitudes and desires of the men in the Disney studio who were responsible for creating these characters and the cultural conditions under which they were created. Drawing on literature from the psychoanalytic approach to film studies, I argue that the clothing choices spoke to an idealized fantasy world to which the animators (most importantly, Walt Disney himself), and possibly wider society, wanted to return.

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In this study, I build upon my previous research in which I focus on religious doctrine as a gendered disciplinary apparatus, and examine the witch trials in early modem England and Italy in light of socio-economic issues relating to gender and class. This project examines the witch hunts/trials and early modem visual representations of witches, and what I suggest is an attempt to create docile bodies out of members of society who are deemed unruly, problematic and otherwise 'undesirable'; it is the witch's body that is deemed counternormative. This study demonstrates that it is neighbours and other acquaintances of accused witches that take on the role of the invisible guard of Bantham's Panoptic on. As someone who is trained in the study of English literature and literary theory, my approach is one that is informed by this methodology. It is my specialization in early modem British literature that first exposed me to witch-hunting manuals and tales of the supernatural, and it is for this reason that my research commences with a study of representations of witches and witchcraft in early modem England. From my initial exposure to such materials I proceed to examine the similarities and the differences of the cultural significance of the supernatural vis-a.-vis women's activities in early modem Italy. The subsequent discussion of visual representations of witches involves a predominance of Germanic artists, as the seminal work on the discernment of witches and the application of punishment known as the Malleus Meleficarum, was written in Germany circa 1486. Textual accounts of witch trials such as: "A Pitiless Mother (1616)," "The Wonderful Discovery of the Witchcrafts of Margaret and Philippa Flower (1619)," "Magic and Poison: The Trial ofChiaretta and Fedele (circa 1550)", and the "The Case of Benvegnuda Pincinella: Medicine Woman or Witch (1518),"and witchhunting manuals such as the Malleus Melejicarum and Strix will be put in direct dialogue with visual representations of witches in light of historical discourses pertaining to gender performance and gendered expectations. Issues relating to class will be examined as they pertain to the material conditions of presumed witches. The dominant group in any temporal or geographic location possesses the tools of representation. Therefore, it is not surprising that the physical characteristics, sexual habits and social material conditions that are attributed to suspected witches are attributes that can be deemed deviant by the ruling class. The research will juxtapose the social material conditions of suspected witches with the guilt, anxiety, and projection of fear that the dominant groups experienced in light of the changing economic landscape of the Renaissance. The shift from feudalism to primitive accumulation, and capitalism saw a rise in people living in poverty and therefore an increased dependence upon the good will of others. I will discuss the social material conditions of accused witches as informed by what Robyn Wiegman terms a "minoritizing discourse" (210). People of higher economic standing often blamed their social, medical, and/or economic difficulties on the less fortunate, resulting in accusations of witchcraft.

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Obesity is a condition associated with a wide variety of health problems including hypertension, dyslipidemia, diabetes mellitus, certain forms of cancer, cardiovascular disease, and gallstones (157). TTiere is growing evidence that obesity may also be related to compromised immune function due to altered metabolic, psychological, and physical attributes (93). The aim of this study was to compare: a) immunity-related variables such as frequency of upper respiratory tract infections (URTI) and salivary secretory immunoglobulin A (sIgA) levels between overweight/obese (OB) and normal weight (NW) early-pubertal and late-pubertal girls, and b) stress-related variables such as Cortisol, melatonin, the melatonin/cortisol ratio, testosterone and the testosterone/cortisol ratio. Physical activity levels, stress indicators, and fatigue were used to explain potential differences in the dependent variables. It was hypothesized that the OB females would have lower melatonin (M) and higher Cortisol (C) and testosterone (T) levels compared with NW girls, regardless of maturity status. The altered levels of melatonin, Cortisol, and testosterone, would result in decreased M/C and T/C ratios, despite the increase in testosterone in OB females. It was hypothesized that this altered hormonal status results in a compromised immunity marked by higher frequency of upper respiratory tract infections (URTI) and decreased levels of secretory immunoglobulin A (sIgA). It was also hypothesized that OB girls would participate in less hours of physical activity than their NW counterparts and that this would relate to their stress and immunity levels. Forty (16 early- and 24 late-pubertal) overweight and obese females were compared to fifty-three (27 eariy- and 26 late-pubertal) age-matched normal-weight control subjects. Participants were categorized as early-pubertal (EP) or late-pubertal (LP) using Tanner self-staging of secondary sex characteristics. Subjects were classified into the two adiposity groups according to relative body fat (%BF), where normal weight (NW) subjects had a %BF less than 25%, and overweight and obese (OB) subjects had a %BF greater than 27.5%. Participants completed a number of questionnaires and information was collected on menstrual history, smoking history, alcohol and caffeine consumption, and medical history. Following the determination of maturity status, a complete anthropometric assessment was made including height, body mass, and body composition. All questionnaires and measurements were completed during a one-hour visit between 1 500 and 1900 hours Relative body fat was assessed using bioelectrical impedance analysis. Resting saliva samples were obtained and assayed (ELISA) for testosterone, Cortisol, melatonin and secretory immunoglobulin A. Physical activity was self-reported using the Godin- Shephard Leisure time questionnaire, and quantified using Actigraph GTIM accelerometers, which participants wore for seven consecutive days from the time they woke up in the morning, until the time they went to bed. Late-pubertal girls also completed questionnaires on their perceived stress and fatigue. Finally, all participants also filled out a one-month health log to record frequency of symptoms of upper respiratory tract infections (URTI). Significant age effects were found for testosterone, Cortisol, incidence of sickness, and sIgA when controlling for physical activity, however there were no significant effects of adiposity on any of the variables. There was a trend which neared-significance for an effect of adiposity on sIgA (p=0.01). There were no significant differences between the groups on the total selfreported leisure-time physical activity in METs per week, however EP girls recorded significantly greater levels of moderate, hard, and very hard physical activity from accelerometers. Results of the perceived stress and fatigue questionnaires in late-pubertal girls demonstrated that contrary to what was hypothesized, NW girls reported more stress and more fatigue than OB girls. Results of the present study suggest that excess adiposity in early- and latepubescent girls may not have a negative impact on immunity as hypothesized.

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This thesis examines the religious dimension of fandom in popular music, taking as an object of reflection Lady Gaga and her fans. I combine fan studies with theories of immanence as well as Deleuze and Guattari's notion of the process of becoming, and provide a theoretical reading of the relationship between Lady Gaga and her most fervent fans, the 'little monsters.' Both fandom and religion promise a stable sense of identity and authentic community to devotees. Performing deconstructive discourse analysis on three of Lady Gaga's music videos, I demonstrate how fandom, like organized religion, can simultaneously be an emancipatory practice and a practice that seeks to deny individual subjects their agency. This thesis provides a new theoretical framework for understanding fandom, and illustrates how the purported benefits of both fandom and religion can only be gained when the figureheads of each group are symbolically destroyed by the members themselves.