Beauty for Sale - An Empirical Study of Appearance-Related Consumption in Finland

This study examines appearance-related consumption in Finland. The theoretical portion discusses appearance-related consumption, on one hand from a consumer culture perspective, as both a possibility and responsibility for everyone; and on the other hand, from the point of view of behaviour and attitudes associated with sociodemographic and lifestyle-related factors. The empirical part of the study concentrates on the following aspects: 1) Finns’ appearance-related consumption patterns, attitudes towards appearance-related consumption and attending to one’s looks through consumption, as well as general changes in consumption patterns and attitudes; 2) gender differences in attitudes and consumption patterns, and their possible changes over time, and; 3) other differences among population groups in attitudes and consumption patterns, and their possible changes over time. The following dissertation utilises data from seven different nationally representative surveys. Data include Finnish Household Budget surveys from 1998 (N=4 359), 2001 (N=5 495) and 2006 (N=4 007), as well as, The Everyday Life and Well-being Survey (N=908) collected in 2011, and Finland 1999 (N=2 417), Finland 2004 (N=3 574) and Finland 2009 (N=1 202) surveys. The study indicates that Finns’ relationship to appearance-related consumption is, generally, somewhat inconsistent. In Finland, a significant share of a household’s total spending, around the EU average, is allocated to products and services related to appearance. In addition, at an attitudinal level, physical appearance is important to most Finnish consumers. However, in many respects, these attitudes reflect a certain reservation towards appearance-related consumption practices. The number of those consumers who see themselves as truly dedicated to attending to their looks through consumption is quite small, whereas the amount of those willing to take a reserved or even negative attitude towards appearance-related consumption is clearly higher. Attitudes towards attending to one’s looks and the importance of appearance-related consumption had not changed during the past decade. Study shows that at present, appearance-related consumption is a form of consumption that is particularly important to women, younger consumers, people with middle or higher income, and those with normal weight. Gender is in the key role when explaining appearance-related consumption and contrary to common belief, gender differences seem to have stayed quite stable. The results also indicate that, to some extent, differences between younger and older age groups might be diminishing.

Beauty and the Beast

Walter Cranen kuvitusta satuun Kaunotar ja hirviö.

Jaetaanko kauneussalaisuuksia

Kirjallisuusarvostelu

Alistunutta maltillisuutta?

Kirjallisuusarvostelu

Monisyisen kaunis rahkasammalten määritysopas

Kirjallisuusarvostelu

Bry sig om : ett vårdvetenskapligt praxisbegrepp

’Bry sig om’ förekommer flitigt i sammanhang där människor vårdar och tar hand om varandra såväl i det vardagliga naturliga vårdandet som i det professionella vårdandet. ’Bry sig om’ är ett språkligt uttryck i människors vardagsspråk som hör samman med ’små vardagliga saker’ som är av betydelse. ’Bry sig om’ har även tydlig förbindelse med vårda och ansa i Erikssons caritativa vårdteori men har inte tidigare varit föremål för klinisk vårdvetenskaplig forskning vilket är bakgrunden till denna studie. Inom Erikssons caritativa vårdteori utgörs grundordningen av kärnbegreppen caritas, enheten människa, hälsa, lidande och vårdande. I den här avhandlingen är syftet att vidga förståelsen för kärnbegreppet vårdandet genom att utforska innebörden i praxisbegreppet ’bry sig om’. Studien har en hermeneutisk ansats och är en sammanläggningsavhandling med fyra delstudier i form av begreppsanalys och tre empiriska studier. Materialet i begreppsutredningen är etymologisk ordbok och svenska ordböcker. I de empiriska delstudierna består materialet av självbiografisk text skrivet av en patient och händelser som patienter och vårdare varit med om vilket förstås som betydelsefullt material för klinisk vårdvetenskaplig forskning. Den nya förståelsen gestaltas i ett tankemönster där ’bry sig om’ framträder som en inre etisk hållning där människan som är på plats kan finnas till och därmed betyda något för en annan människa. Att betyda något för en annan människa är uttryck för det naturliga omsorgsfulla vårdandet där patienten förnimmer en kärleksfull hållning i vårdarens varsamma kärleksfulla händer och varma röst. ’Bry sig om’, har sin grundval i det naturliga omsorgsfulla vårdandet som konstituerar människan som människa. Det som framkommit i avhandlingen är möjligheten att undersöka praxisbegrepp inom vårdvetenskapen där ’bry sig om’ bidragit till att synliggöra vårdandet och därmed innebörden och meningen i ansandet, lekandet och lärandet på ett nytt och annorlunda sätt ur ett kliniskt vårdvetenskapligt perspektiv.

I hälsans spelrum : lek på vårdandets scen

With caring science as its foundation and by means of the perioperative dialogue, the intended contribution and overall aim of this present thesis is to describe what play is and could be in the caring reality, an ideal model. The perioperative dialogue is the nurse anaesthetists’ pre-, intra- and post-operative dialogues with the children they care for in connection with anesthesia. The thesis is composed according to Schopenhauer’s notion that the road to science presupposes the world seen as performances, and has an all-pervading hermeneutic approach. The performances of the thesis are: the performance of all performances, the empirical performance, the transcendental performance and the universal performance. The performance of all performances originates in the theoretical perspective of the thesis and describes what play and its characteristics are. This performance is realized through the hermeneutic interpretation of the etymology and original meaning of the word play along with texts from caring science, philosophy, anthropology and the history of religion. The empirical performance originates in four empirical studies where caring is organized as a perioperative dialogue. In study I, the material was collected with the help of participating observations and semi-structured interviews, in study II, with the help of the critical incident method and in study III, with the help of conversation interviews. In study IV, play develops into a clinical caring science research method. The research participants consist of children with special needs, children with a pronounced fear of anaesthesia, parents of children with severe autism and nurse anaesthetists. The empirical performance relates in what way play manifests in a perioperative child context by interpreting the results from the empiric in the light of the characteristics of play. The transcendental performance is enacted in the playhouse of health and presents a picture of the essence of play, the playing. In the playhouse of health, the light, winged movement of play is actualized when what was previously too difficult, too heavy and pinioned instead is as easy as anything. The eye of love and compassion knows the art of deciphering the secret script where the Other’s holiness resides, even if mere glimpses of it appear. The universal performance depicts three caring acts where the entrance consists of entering play, the ideal of which is realized in the unmasked openness face to face, that which protects the playing human being against encroachment and an unwanted audience. In the second caring act, entering play plays on to the finely-tuned interplay between human beings in the winged play of beauty and dignity. In the third caring act, the world’s deepest plays are staged on the stage of caring, in the sense that the innermost being of each individual, the universal will joins in and allows individuals to live as playing human beings who are at home with themselves and the world. The captivating, graceful and friendly play works from within itself, as long as it illumined by the light of claritas can play undisturbed on the stage of caring where it – like an unclouded mirror of its own ideal watches over children’s health.

Physical Attractiveness as a Signal of Biological Quality

It has been commonly thought that standards of beauty are arbitrary cultural conventions that vary between cultures and time. In my thesis I found that it is not so. Instead, I show that attractiveness and preferred traits serve as cues to phenotypic qualities that provide selective benefits for those who choose their mates based on these criteria. In the first study I show that attractive men have a stronger antibody response to the hepatitis b vaccine and higher levels of testosterone than their less attractive peers. Men with low levels of testosterone also tend to have high levels of the stress hormone cortisol, suggesting that their immune responses may have been inhibited by stress hormones. Thus, facial attractiveness may serve as an honest cue of the strength of immune defence in men. In the second study, I show that the attractiveness of the male body is also a cue of better immunity. In addition, I show that adiposity, both in men’s faces and bodies, is a better cue of the strength of immunity and attractiveness than of masculinity. In the third study, I test the preferences of women from 13 countries for facial cues of testosterone and cortisol. I show that there is cross-cultural variation in women’s preference for cues of testosterone and cortisol in male faces. I found a relationship between the health of a nation and women’s preferences for cues of testosterone in the male face and the interaction between preferences for cues of testosterone and cortisol. I show also a relationship between preferences for cues of testosterone and a societal-level measure of parasite stress. Thus, it seems that societal-level ecological factors influence the relative value of traits as revealed by combinations of testosterone and stress hormones. In the fourth study, I show that women’s immune responsiveness (amount of antibodies produced) does not predict facial attractiveness. Instead, plasma cortisol level is negatively associated with attractiveness, indicating that stressed women look less attractive. Fat percentage is curvilinearly associated with facial attractiveness, indicating that being too thin or too fat reduces attractiveness. This study suggests that in contrast to men, facial attractiveness in women does not indicate the strength of immune defence, but is associated with other aspects of long-term health and fertility: circulating levels of the stress hormone cortisol and the percentage of body fat. In the last study I show that the attractiveness of men’s body odor is positively correlated with stress hormone levels, suggesting also that the attractiveness of body odors may signal the phenotypic quality of males to females. However, the attractiveness of men’s body odor was not associated with testosterone levels. My thesis suggests that the standard of beauty is not in the eye of the beholder. Instead, our standard of beauty is hardwired in our brains by genes that are selected by natural selection and also influenced by current environmental conditions.

Livets källa kärleken : hälsans urkraft

This basic research focuses on the ethos of health and the human being's becoming in health. The theoretical perspective consists of the caring tradition within caring science developed at Åbo Akademy University. The aim of the present doctoral thesis is to uncover a new understanding as well as to deepen and attain a more nuanced understanding of the ethos of health, the essence of health, by penetrating to the core of what gives the human being the strength for experiencing a becoming in health. The research questions are as follows: l) What is the human being's source of strength? and 2) What reveals the source of strength so that the human being can perceive it and dedicate its strength in order to experience a becoming in health? The primary methodology used in the dissertation is hermeneutical. The material consists of the work Kärlekens gerningar by Kierkegaard, texts from focused interviews with respondents who have lived through severe personal suffering, as well as the book Det bländande mörkret by Wikström. These texts are interpreted through hermeneutical reading. The new horizon of understanding that emerges is reflected towards Eriksson's caritative theory, towards prior research within the tradition of caring science at Åbo Akademy University and towards previous national and international studies within this field. The new understanding shows that the human being's source of strength is love, the essence and origin of life. The substance of health is love, which, through the trinity of faith, hope and love, also makes possible the existence of the source of strength. Love has a deeper dignity than faith and hope, is connected with eternity and is the uniting link between temporality and eternity. The human being's inner longing entails an ontological attraction towards the source of strength. This source of strength is hidden, which provides and maintains its force, like a mystery connected with the darkness of suffering that hides the secret representing the source of strength, life's mystery, bu t w hi ch is revealed in both the darkness of suffering and in the light of joy. The dedication of strength requires freedom, willingness and courage to see the light, despite awareness of shame and guilt. Creative acts liberate the human being for the dedication of strength, which is preceded by a holy presence where, in solitude, the human being makes sacrifices for the sake of his or her human smallness and weakness, and allows himself or herself to be enclosed by the darkness of suffering to discover the light from the source. This entails being enraptured in a quiet "doing" in order to experience the beauty that bears witness to the holy which creates unity. The source of strength is revealed through beauty. The ethos of the human being and the ethos of health have the same fundamental substance, whilst the ethos of life possesses the deepest dimension and concerns the mysterious and infinite eternity. The ethos of life, eternity, which is a wellspring of strength, is not in itself strength-giving unless it is allied with love. Health can be understood in the light of life, of which death is an inevitable part. Life itself constitutes and creates the source which, through its alliance with eternity' s primordial wellspring of strength, generates strength from which the human being's source of strength, love, receives its eternal fervour. The human being is fundamentally interconnected with an abstract other, the first love, a universal wellspring of strength. Through Communion with this abstract other a dedication of the strength to experience a becoming in health becomes possible. Love for one's neighbour is the fundamental substance in the movement of becoming in health. Becoming in health presupposes a simultaneous movement in which the human being practices the human calling through ethos. As one loves one's neighbour through actions the still forces of eternity are in motion. When life emerges in the foreground and becomes the home of the human being, a dedication of the power of love is possible. Life itself determines the human being's becoming in health. A humble fundamental attitude towards life constitutes the basis for a continuous dedication of vitality from this source.

To be a woman here is to be invisible: in search of the dispossessed femininity in Middle-earth

In my thesis I examine J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings (1954-55), the fantasy epic written on the basis of a fictional universe created by Tolkien, complete with elves, dwarves and other mystical creatures – with languages, alphabets and grammar created for all. While rich linguistically, Tolkien writes a decidedly male description of his world, often neglecting any acknowledgement of female existence. Tolkien’s monolithic stature amongst other fantasy authors made me conduct a feminist reading of The Lord of the Rings, with an eye for the way female experience is marginalized to the point of omission. Tolkien’s linguistic accomplishments have overshadowed the illogical aspects of his work, namely the omission of genders, societal classes and features of society necessary for the fictional universe to retain its cohesion. This cohesion suffers from a totally male experience in the novel which is willfully blind to these features I listed. My theoretical framework is built on ideas in Toril Moi’s Sex, Gender and the Body (2005) and bell hook’s Feminism is For Everybody (2000). Michel Foucault’s ideas of power and hidden histories assist in performing a close reading of the source text and interpreting the results. My thesis focuses on the transformation that the values associated with the concept of equality have undergone. This is best illustrated in the treatment of the few female characters in the novel – Galadriel, Éowyn and Arwen – as their beauty and existence interferes with the ordering of the male-dominated world.