Vaatetus- ja tekstiilimateriaalien ekologinen elinjakson hallinta Talousvarikon toiminnoissa

Tämän case -tutkimuksen tarkoituksena on kartoittaa tekstiili- ja vaatetusmateriaalien ekologista elinjakson hallintaa Talousvarikon toiminnoissa ja tutkimalla mahdollisuuksia soveltaa saatuja tuloksia. Talousvarikko on Puolustusvoimien Materiaalilaitoksen alainen järjestelmävastuuvarikko, jonka tehtävänä on varusmiesten ja kadettien vaatetuksen hankinta- ja ylläpitotoiminnot. Talousvarikko jakautuu neljälle paikkakunnalle. Hämeenlinnassa on hankinta-, hallinto- ja materiaaliosasto. Säkylässä, Mikkelissä ja Sodankylässä ovat vaatetuskorjaamot. Tekstiilimateriaalien elinkaariajattelussa tarkastellaan raaka-aineiden jaottelua ja maailman kuitutuotantoa. Tekstiilikuidut jaotellaan luonnon- ja tekokuituihin. Luonnonkuidut ovat pääosin luonnon raaka-aineita ja tekokuidut ovat synteettisesti valmistettuja. Tekstiilikuitujen- ja materiaalien vaikutus ekologiseen elinjakson hallinnan vaiheisiin on riippuvainen raaka-aineidenalkuperästä. Vaatetus- ja tekstiilimateriaalin elinkaari muodostuu tuotekehityksestä, hankinnasta, valmistuksesta, käytöstä, huollosta ja hylkäyksestä. Ekologista elinjakson hallintaa tarkastellaan materiaalivirta- ja elinkaarianalyysien kautta. Elinkaarianalyysin tarkastelu painottuu vaikutusluokkien arvottamiseen ja materiaalivirta-analyysissä tarkastellaan ainevirtoja ja sitä kautta jätteiden määrän vähentämistä. Joutsenmerkin valintakriteerien pohjana on aina tuotteiden elinkaarianalyysi. Joutsenmerkin valintakriteerien soveltaminen Talousvarikon toimintoihin vaatetus- ja tekstiilimateriaalin elinkaaren jokaisessa vaiheessa antaa mahdollisuuden lisätä ekologista elinkaaren hallintaa Talousvarikon toiminnoissa. Ympäristönäkökohtien huomioiminen tuotekehityksessä ja hankinnoissa antaa mahdollisuuden tehdä tilauksia / sopimuksia yhteiskuntavastuullisilta yrityksiltä huomioiden valmistuksen yhdeksi osaksi hankinta ja logistiikka pääprosessia.

Utilization of non-wood pulp in different fibers products

The correct utilization of non-wood raw material allows reducing tree cutting and reduces emissions of carbon dioxide from burning of non-wood plants on farmers fields. Also it allows increasing economical situation in regions that non-wood plants are grown and where they are converted into pulp and paper. Also it gives positive effect on population pressure of work by addition of working place. In the literature survey included an overview of the historical meaning of non-wood pulp on developing paper production and structure of non-wood pulps. Moreover, anatomical and chemical composition of straw, reed and bamboo were studied more detailed. Also, an overview of the utilization of non-wood pulp in papermaking was made. Especially tissue, tree-free and release papers were reviewed. In the experimental part the goal was to investigate suitability of non-wood pulp like wheat straw pulp and bamboo pulp for different fiber products. Finally release and tree-free paper products were selected for experimental studies. It was discovered that wheat straw, especially screened wheat straw, showed good results for release paper. Also utilization of wheat straw and bamboo pulp in tree-free paper showed good results and suitability of these non-wood pulps for tree-free paper production. Also it was noticed that addition of wheat straw pulp gave positive effect on initial wet strength for release and tree-free paper.

Biochemical Modification of Thermomechanical Pulp Fibers

The first objective of this study was to find out reliable laboratory methods to predict the effect of enzymes on specific energy consumption and fiber properties of TMP pulp. The second one was to find with interactive software called “Knowledge discovery in databases” enzymes or other additives that can be used in finding a solution to reduce energy consumption of TMP pulp. The chemical composition of wood and enzymes, which have activity on main wood components were presented in the literature part of the work. The results of previous research in energy reduction of TMP process with enzymes were also highlighted. The main principles of knowledge discovery have been included in literature part too. The experimental part of the work contains the methods description in which the standard size chip, crushed chip and fiberized spruce chip (fiberized pulp) were used. Different types of enzymatic treatment with different dosages and time were tested during the experiments and showed. Pectinase, endoglucanase and mixture of enzymes were used for evaluation of method reliability. The fines content and fiber length of pulp was measured and used as evidence of enzymes' effect. The refining method with “Bauer” laboratory disc refiner was evaluated as not highly reliable. It was not able to provide high repeatability of results, because of uncontrolled feeding capacity and refining consistency. The refining method with Valley refiner did not have a lot of variables and showed stable and repeatable results in energy saving. The results of experiments showed that efficient enzymes impregnation is probably the main target with enzymes application for energy saving. During the work the fiberized pulp showed high accessibility to enzymatic treatment and liquid penetration without special impregnating equipment. The reason was that fiberized pulp has larger wood surface area and thereby the contact area between the enzymatic solution and wood is also larger. Standard size chip and crushed chip treatment without special impregnator of enzymatic solution was evaluated as not efficient and did not show visible, repeatable results in energy consumption decrease. Thereby it was concluded that using of fiberized pulp and Valley refiner for measurements of enzymes' effectiveness in SEC decrease is more suitable than normal size chip and crushed chip with “Bauer” refiner. Endoglucanase with 5 kg/t dosage showed about 20% energy consumption decrease. Mixture of enzymes with 1.5 kg/t dosage showed about 15% decrease of energy consumption during the refining. Pectinase at different dosages and treatment times did not show significant effect on energy consumption. Results of knowledge discovery in databases showed the xylanase, cellulase and pectinase blend as most promising for energy reduction in TMP process. Surfactants were determined as effective additives for energy saving with enzymes.

Finnish buyers’ perceptions of Indian textile and clothing suppliers: Country of origin in focus

Choosing the right supplier is crucial for long-term business prospects and profitability. Thus organizational buyers are naturally very interested in how they can select the right supplier for their needs. Likewise, suppliers are interested in knowing how their customers make purchasing decisions in order to effectively sell and market to them. From the point of view of the textile and clothing (T&C) industry, regulatory changes and increasing low-cost and globalization pressures have led to the rise of low-cost production locations India and China as the world’s largest T&C producers. This thesis will examine T&C trade between Finland and India specifically in the context of non-industrial T&C products. Its main research problem asks: what perceptions do Finnish T&C industry buyers hold of India and Indian suppliers? B2B buyers use various supplier selection models and criteria in making their purchase decisions. A significant amount of research has been done into supplier selection practices, and in the context of international trade, country of origin (COO) perceptions specifically have garnered much attention. This thesis uses a mixed methods approach (online questionnaire and in-depth interviews) to evaluate Finnish T&C buyers’ supplier selection criteria, COO perceptions of India and experiences of Indian suppliers. It was found that the most important supplier selection criteria used by Finnish T&C buyers are quality, reliability and cost. COO perceptions were not found to be influential in purchasing process. Indian T&C suppliers’ strengths were found to be low cost, flexibility and a history of traditional T&C expertise. Their weaknesses include product quality and unreliable delivery times. Overall, the main challenges that need to be overcome by Indian T&C companies are logistical difficulties and the cost vs. quality trade-off. Despite positive perceptions of India for cost, the overall value offered by Indian T&C products was perceived to be low due to poor quality. Unreliable delivery time experiences also affected buyer’s reliability perceptions of Indian suppliers. The main limiting factors of this thesis relate to the small sample size used in the research. This limits the generalizability of results and the ability to evaluate the reliability and validity of some of the research instruments.

Stability and properties of cellulose-sodium hydroxide solution systems

Since cellulose is a linear macromolecule it can be used as a material for regenerated cellulose fiber products e.g. in textile fibers or film manufacturing. Cellulose is not thermoformable, thus the manufacturing of these regenerated fibers is mainly possible through dissolution processes preceding the regeneration process. However, the dissolution of cellulose in common solvents is hindered due to inter- and intra-molecular hydrogen bonds in the cellulose chains, and relatively high crystallinity. Interestingly at subzero temperatures relatively dilute sodium hydroxide solutions can be used to dissolve cellulose to a certain extent. The objective of this work was to investigate the possible factors that govern the solubility of cellulose in aqueous NaOH and the solution stability. Cellulose-NaOH solutions have the tendency to form a gel over time and at elevated temperature, which creates challenges for further processing. The main target of this work was to achieve high solubility of cellulose in aqueous NaOH without excessively compromising the solution stability. In the literature survey an overview of the cellulose dissolution is given and possible factors contributing to the solubility and solution properties of cellulose in aqueous NaOH are reviewed. Furthermore, the concept of solution rheology is discussed. In the experimental part the focus was on the characterization of the used materials and properties of the prepared solutions mainly concentrating on cellulose solubility and solution stability.

Wood species identification by visual characterization of fibers

Kandidaatintyö tehtiin osana PulpVision-tutkimusprojektia, jonka tarkoituksena on kehittää kuvapohjaisia laskenta- ja luokittelumetodeja sellun laaduntarkkailuun paperin valmistuksessa. Tämän tutkimusprojektin osana on aiemmin kehitetty metodi, jolla etsittiin kaarevia rakenteita kuvista, ja tätä metodia hyödynnettiin kuitujen etsintään kuvista. Tätä metodia käytettiin lähtökohtana kandidaatintyölle. Työn tarkoituksena oli tutkia, voidaanko erilaisista kuitukuvista laskettujen piirteiden avulla tunnistaa kuvassa olevien kuitujen laji. Näissä kuitukuvissa oli kuituja neljästä eri puulajista ja yhdestä kasvista. Nämä lajit olivat akasia, koivu, mänty, eukalyptus ja vehnä. Jokaisesta lajista valittiin 100 kuitukuvaa ja nämä kuvat jaettiin kahteen ryhmään, joista ensimmäistä käytettiin opetusryhmänä ja toista testausryhmänä. Opetusryhmän avulla jokaiselle kuitulajille laskettiin näitä kuvaavia piirteitä, joiden avulla pyrittiin tunnistamaan testausryhmän kuvissa olevat kuitulajit. Nämä kuvat oli tuottanut CEMIS-Oulu (Center for Measurement and Information Systems), joka on mittaustekniikkaan keskittynyt yksikkö Oulun yliopistossa. Yksittäiselle opetusryhmän kuitukuvalle laskettiin keskiarvot ja keskihajonnat kolmesta eri piirteestä, jotka olivat pituus, leveys ja kaarevuus. Lisäksi laskettiin, kuinka monta kuitua kuvasta löydettiin. Näiden piirteiden eri yhdistelmien avulla testattiin tunnistamisen tarkkuutta käyttämällä k:n lähimmän naapurin menetelmää ja Naiivi Bayes -luokitinta testausryhmän kuville. Testeistä saatiin lupaavia tuloksia muun muassa pituuden ja leveyden keskiarvoja käytettäessä saavutettiin jopa noin 98 %:n tarkkuus molemmilla algoritmeilla. Tunnistuksessa kuitujen keskimäärinen pituus vaikutti olevan kuitukuvia parhaiten kuvaava piirre. Käytettyjen algoritmien välillä ei ollut suurta vaihtelua tarkkuudessa. Testeissä saatujen tulosten perusteella voidaan todeta, että kuitukuvien tunnistaminen on mahdollista. Testien perusteella kuitukuvista tarvitsee laskea vain kaksi piirrettä, joilla kuidut voidaan tunnistaa tarkasti. Käytetyt lajittelualgoritmit olivat hyvin yksinkertaisia, mutta ne toimivat testeissä hyvin.

Incorporating Sustainability in Global Sourcing Process, Industry Focus- Apparel / Textile

This is a Master’s thesis research, which mainly aims at identifying the sustainability issues in sourcing process and to identify the core competencies in sourcing process through triple bottom line adaptation. The focus of this thesis is on apparel industry’s sourcing process. The purpose of this thesis is to examine global apparel industry’s reality in their sourcing process and how buyers-suppliers are cooperating with their sourcing process to incorporate sustainability. Other goal of this research paper is to provide recommendation for sustainable sourcing process for companies and how the stakeholders can be benefitted by sustainable sourcing. The literature review part of this paper has presented the research gaps from the earlier researches along with the key concepts, academic purposes and key definitions. Theoretical framework chapter has focused on global sourcing strategies and firm’s competencies and sustainable strategies. From the theoretical framework, author has presented essential theory which establishes the link between research questions and proposed hypotheses. Main results and findings have been presented in empirical findings and in data analysis chapter. This study is an exploratory research followed by deductive method and primary data has been used to evaluate the current situation of apparel industry; which will assist to build the recommendation model. Primary data has been collected through online questionnaires and secondary data has used to cover the literature and theoretical parts. Therefore, the potential outcome of this paper will display the importance of sustainable sourcing from academic point of view and also from the business perspective. As a final point, this paper has followed the research objectives and has generated some new directions for further studies.

Perceptions of green branding and identity building amongst small Finnish textile producers

The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. The amount of air and water pollution it causes puts a burden on the environment. There are companies who have taken the environmental and social aspects into account in the their production and chosen to operate in a green manner. This thesis studies how the phenomenon of green branding is seen from the perspectives of small Finnish textile companies. The theory used in this thesis has to do with green branding and identity building. The theory is used to analyze the results of the empirical findings. The main research question that the thesis aims to answer is how green branding is perceived within the Finnish textile industry. In order to answer the main research question, empirical data was collected from five relevant companies within the Finnish textile industry. The companies interviewed for the study were WST, Saana ja Olli, RCM, R-collection and Tiensivu. The study was conducted as a multiple case based study where multiple experts from green companies were interviewed. The experts were all owners or employees of companies that have a so-called green brand identity. The data was collected through semi-structured interviews, where the relevant experts from each company were interviewed either by themselves, in pairs or in groups. The data that was collected for this study was primary data, and the results of the study are mainly based on the experiences and opinions of the experts interviewed. The data collected does not cover the entire green textile industry within Finland, but study does however give a fairly comprehensive view of the phenomenon, as the textile industry in Finland is quite concise. The general findings of the study show that all experts from the companies interviewed agreed that a green brand identity does benefit their company in one way or the other. The findings also show contradictions with the older theory (eg. Charter et al. 1999, Pickett et al. 1995), and perhaps give a more modern view of the thoughts within the industry.