7 resultados para Tratamientos textiles

em Université de Lausanne, Switzerland


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RESUME La méthode de la spectroscopie Raman est une technique d'analyse chimique basée sur l'exploitation du phénomène de diffusion de la lumière (light scattering). Ce phénomène fut observé pour la première fois en 1928 par Raman et Krishnan. Ces observations permirent à Raman d'obtenir le Prix Nobel en physique en 1930. L'application de la spectroscopie Raman a été entreprise pour l'analyse du colorant de fibres textiles en acrylique, en coton et en laine de couleurs bleue, rouge et noire. Nous avons ainsi pu confirmer que la technique est adaptée pour l'analyse in situ de traces de taille microscopique. De plus, elle peut être qualifiée de rapide, non destructive et ne nécessite aucune préparation particulière des échantillons. Cependant, le phénomène de la fluorescence s'est révélé être l'inconvénient le plus important. Lors de l'analyse des fibres, différentes conditions analytiques ont été testées et il est apparu qu'elles dépendaient surtout du laser choisi. Son potentiel pour la détection et l'identification des colorants imprégnés dans les fibres a été confirmé dans cette étude. Une banque de données spectrale comprenant soixante colorants de référence a été réalisée dans le but d'identifier le colorant principal imprégné dans les fibres collectées. De plus, l'analyse de différents blocs de couleur, caractérisés par des échantillons d'origine inconnue demandés à diverses personnes, a permis de diviser ces derniers en plusieurs groupes et d'évaluer la rareté des configurations des spectres Raman obtenus. La capacité de la technique Raman à différencier ces échantillons a été évaluée et comparée à celle des méthodes conventionnelles pour l'analyse des fibres textiles, à savoir la micro spectrophotométrie UV-Vis (MSP) et la chromatographie sur couche mince (CCM). La technique Raman s'est révélée être moins discriminatoire que la MSP pour tous les blocs de couleurs considérés. C'est pourquoi dans le cadre d'une séquence analytique nous recommandons l'utilisation du Raman après celle de la méthode d'analyse de la couleur, à partir d'un nombre de sources lasers le plus élevé possible. Finalement, la possibilité de disposer d'instruments équipés avec plusieurs longueurs d'onde d'excitation, outre leur pouvoir de réduire la fluorescence, permet l'exploitation d'un plus grand nombre d'échantillons. ABSTRACT Raman spectroscopy allows for the measurement of the inelastic scattering of light due to the vibrational modes of a molecule when irradiated by an intense monochromatic source such as a laser. Such a phenomenon was observed for the first time by Raman and Krishnan in 1928. For this observation, Raman was awarded with the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1930. The application of Raman spectroscopy has been undertaken for the dye analysis of textile fibers. Blue, black and red acrylics, cottons and wools were examined. The Raman technique presents advantages such as non-destructive nature, fast analysis time, and the possibility of performing microscopic in situ analyses. However, the problem of fluorescence was often encountered. Several aspects were investigated according to the best analytical conditions for every type/color fiber combination. The potential of the technique for the detection and identification of dyes was confirmed. A spectral database of 60 reference dyes was built to detect the main dyes used for the coloration of fiber samples. Particular attention was placed on the discriminating power of the technique. Based on the results from the Raman analysis for the different blocs of color submitted to analyses, it was possible to obtain different classes of fibers according to the general shape of spectra. The ability of Raman spectroscopy to differentiate samples was compared to the one of the conventional techniques used for the analysis of textile fibers, like UV-Vis Microspectrophotometry (UV-Vis MSP) and thin layer chromatography (TLC). The Raman technique resulted to be less discriminative than MSP for every bloc of color considered in this study. Thus, it is recommended to use Raman spectroscopy after MSP and light microscopy to be considered for an analytical sequence. It was shown that using several laser wavelengths allowed for the reduction of fluorescence and for the exploitation of a higher number of samples.

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Bacteria can survive on hospital textiles and surfaces, from which they can be disseminated, representing a source of health care-associated infections (HCAIs). Surfaces containing copper (Cu), which is known for its bactericidal properties, could be an efficient way to lower the burden of potential pathogens. The antimicrobial activity of Cu-sputtered polyester surfaces, obtained by direct-current magnetron sputtering (DCMS), against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) was tested. The Cu-polyester microstructure was characterized by high-resolution transmission electron microscopy to determine the microstructure of the Cu nanoparticles and by profilometry to assess the thickness of the layers. Sputtering at 300 mA for 160 s led to a Cu film thickness of 20 nm (100 Cu layers) containing 0.209% (wt/wt) polyester. The viability of MRSA strain ATCC 43300 on Cu-sputtered polyester was evaluated by four methods: (i) mechanical detachment, (ii) microcalorimetry, (iii) direct transfer onto plates, and (iv) stereomicroscopy. The low efficacy of mechanical detachment impeded bacterial viability estimations. Microcalorimetry provided only semiquantitative results. Direct transfer onto plates and stereomicroscopy seemed to be the most suitable methods to evaluate the bacterial inactivation potential of Cu-sputtered polyester surfaces, since they presented the least experimental bias. Cu-polyester samples sputtered for 160 s by DCMS were further tested against 10 clinical MRSA isolates and showed a high level of bactericidal activity, with a 4-log(10) reduction in the initial MRSA load (10(6) CFU) within 1 h. Cu-sputtered polyester surfaces might be of use to prevent the transmission of HCAI pathogens.

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General Introduction This thesis can be divided into two main parts :the first one, corresponding to the first three chapters, studies Rules of Origin (RoOs) in Preferential Trade Agreements (PTAs); the second part -the fourth chapter- is concerned with Anti-Dumping (AD) measures. Despite wide-ranging preferential access granted to developing countries by industrial ones under North-South Trade Agreements -whether reciprocal, like the Europe Agreements (EAs) or NAFTA, or not, such as the GSP, AGOA, or EBA-, it has been claimed that the benefits from improved market access keep falling short of the full potential benefits. RoOs are largely regarded as a primary cause of the under-utilization of improved market access of PTAs. RoOs are the rules that determine the eligibility of goods to preferential treatment. Their economic justification is to prevent trade deflection, i.e. to prevent non-preferred exporters from using the tariff preferences. However, they are complex, cost raising and cumbersome, and can be manipulated by organised special interest groups. As a result, RoOs can restrain trade beyond what it is needed to prevent trade deflection and hence restrict market access in a statistically significant and quantitatively large proportion. Part l In order to further our understanding of the effects of RoOs in PTAs, the first chapter, written with Pr. Olivier Cadot, Celine Carrère and Pr. Jaime de Melo, describes and evaluates the RoOs governing EU and US PTAs. It draws on utilization-rate data for Mexican exports to the US in 2001 and on similar data for ACP exports to the EU in 2002. The paper makes two contributions. First, we construct an R-index of restrictiveness of RoOs along the lines first proposed by Estevadeordal (2000) for NAFTA, modifying it and extending it for the EU's single-list (SL). This synthetic R-index is then used to compare Roos under NAFTA and PANEURO. The two main findings of the chapter are as follows. First, it shows, in the case of PANEURO, that the R-index is useful to summarize how countries are differently affected by the same set of RoOs because of their different export baskets to the EU. Second, it is shown that the Rindex is a relatively reliable statistic in the sense that, subject to caveats, after controlling for the extent of tariff preference at the tariff-line level, it accounts for differences in utilization rates at the tariff line level. Finally, together with utilization rates, the index can be used to estimate total compliance costs of RoOs. The second chapter proposes a reform of preferential Roos with the aim of making them more transparent and less discriminatory. Such a reform would make preferential blocs more "cross-compatible" and would therefore facilitate cumulation. It would also contribute to move regionalism toward more openness and hence to make it more compatible with the multilateral trading system. It focuses on NAFTA, one of the most restrictive FTAs (see Estevadeordal and Suominen 2006), and proposes a way forward that is close in spirit to what the EU Commission is considering for the PANEURO system. In a nutshell, the idea is to replace the current array of RoOs by a single instrument- Maximum Foreign Content (MFC). An MFC is a conceptually clear and transparent instrument, like a tariff. Therefore changing all instruments into an MFC would bring improved transparency pretty much like the "tariffication" of NTBs. The methodology for this exercise is as follows: In step 1, I estimate the relationship between utilization rates, tariff preferences and RoOs. In step 2, I retrieve the estimates and invert the relationship to get a simulated MFC that gives, line by line, the same utilization rate as the old array of Roos. In step 3, I calculate the trade-weighted average of the simulated MFC across all lines to get an overall equivalent of the current system and explore the possibility of setting this unique instrument at a uniform rate across lines. This would have two advantages. First, like a uniform tariff, a uniform MFC would make it difficult for lobbies to manipulate the instrument at the margin. This argument is standard in the political-economy literature and has been used time and again in support of reductions in the variance of tariffs (together with standard welfare considerations). Second, uniformity across lines is the only way to eliminate the indirect source of discrimination alluded to earlier. Only if two countries face uniform RoOs and tariff preference will they face uniform incentives irrespective of their initial export structure. The result of this exercise is striking: the average simulated MFC is 25% of good value, a very low (i.e. restrictive) level, confirming Estevadeordal and Suominen's critical assessment of NAFTA's RoOs. Adopting a uniform MFC would imply a relaxation from the benchmark level for sectors like chemicals or textiles & apparel, and a stiffening for wood products, papers and base metals. Overall, however, the changes are not drastic, suggesting perhaps only moderate resistance to change from special interests. The third chapter of the thesis considers whether Europe Agreements of the EU, with the current sets of RoOs, could be the potential model for future EU-centered PTAs. First, I have studied and coded at the six-digit level of the Harmonised System (HS) .both the old RoOs -used before 1997- and the "Single list" Roos -used since 1997. Second, using a Constant Elasticity Transformation function where CEEC exporters smoothly mix sales between the EU and the rest of the world by comparing producer prices on each market, I have estimated the trade effects of the EU RoOs. The estimates suggest that much of the market access conferred by the EAs -outside sensitive sectors- was undone by the cost-raising effects of RoOs. The chapter also contains an analysis of the evolution of the CEECs' trade with the EU from post-communism to accession. Part II The last chapter of the thesis is concerned with anti-dumping, another trade-policy instrument having the effect of reducing market access. In 1995, the Uruguay Round introduced in the Anti-Dumping Agreement (ADA) a mandatory "sunset-review" clause (Article 11.3 ADA) under which anti-dumping measures should be reviewed no later than five years from their imposition and terminated unless there was a serious risk of resumption of injurious dumping. The last chapter, written with Pr. Olivier Cadot and Pr. Jaime de Melo, uses a new database on Anti-Dumping (AD) measures worldwide to assess whether the sunset-review agreement had any effect. The question we address is whether the WTO Agreement succeeded in imposing the discipline of a five-year cycle on AD measures and, ultimately, in curbing their length. Two methods are used; count data analysis and survival analysis. First, using Poisson and Negative Binomial regressions, the count of AD measures' revocations is regressed on (inter alia) the count of "initiations" lagged five years. The analysis yields a coefficient on measures' initiations lagged five years that is larger and more precisely estimated after the agreement than before, suggesting some effect. However the coefficient estimate is nowhere near the value that would give a one-for-one relationship between initiations and revocations after five years. We also find that (i) if the agreement affected EU AD practices, the effect went the wrong way, the five-year cycle being quantitatively weaker after the agreement than before; (ii) the agreement had no visible effect on the United States except for aone-time peak in 2000, suggesting a mopping-up of old cases. Second, the survival analysis of AD measures around the world suggests a shortening of their expected lifetime after the agreement, and this shortening effect (a downward shift in the survival function postagreement) was larger and more significant for measures targeted at WTO members than for those targeted at non-members (for which WTO disciplines do not bind), suggesting that compliance was de jure. A difference-in-differences Cox regression confirms this diagnosis: controlling for the countries imposing the measures, for the investigated countries and for the products' sector, we find a larger increase in the hazard rate of AD measures covered by the Agreement than for other measures.

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Hypomagnesemia and hypophosphatemia are frequent after severe burns; however, increased urinary excretion does not sufficiently explain the magnitude of the mineral depletion. We measured the mineral content of cutaneous exudates during the first week after injury. Sixteen patients aged 34 +/- 9 y (mean +/- SD) with thermal burns were studied prospectively and divided in 3 groups according to the extent of their burn injury and the presence or absence of mineral supplements: group 1 (n = 5), burns covering 26 +/- 5% of body surface; group 2 (n = 6), burns covering 41 +/- 10%; and group 3 (n = 5), burns covering 42 +/- 6% with prescription of magnesium and phosphate supplements. Cutaneous exudates were extracted from the textiles (surgical drapes, dressings, sheets, etc) surrounding the patients from day 1 to day 7 after injury. Mean magnesium serum concentrations decreased below reference ranges in 12 patients between days 1 and 4 and normalized thereafter. Phosphate, normal on day 0, was low during the first week. Albumin concentrations, normal on day 0, decreased and remained low. Urinary magnesium and phosphate excretion were within reference ranges and not larger in group 3. Mean daily cutaneous losses were 16 mmol Mg/d and 11 mmol P/d (largest in group 2). Exudative magnesium losses were correlated with burn severity (r = 0.709, P = 0.003). Cutaneous magnesium losses were nearly four times larger than urinary losses whereas cutaneous phosphate losses were smaller than urinary phosphate losses. Mean daily losses of both magnesium and phosphate were more than the recommended dietary allowances. Exudative losses combined with urinary losses largely explained the increased mineral requirements after burn injury.

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Waterproofing agents are widely used to protect leather and textiles in both domestic and occupational activities. An outbreak of acute respiratory syndrome following exposure to waterproofing sprays occurred during the winter 2002-2003 in Switzerland. About 180 cases were reported by the Swiss Toxicological Information Centre between October 2002 and March 2003, whereas fewer than 10 cases per year had been recorded previously. The reported cases involved three brands of sprays containing a common waterproofing mixture, that had undergone a formulation change in the months preceding the outbreak. A retrospective analysis was undertaken in collaboration with the Swiss Toxicological Information Centre and the Swiss Registries for Interstitial and Orphan Lung Diseases to clarify the circumstances and possible causes of the observed health effects. Individual exposure data were generated with questionnaires and experimental emission measurements. The collected data was used to conduct numeric simulation for 102 cases of exposure. A classical two-zone model was used to assess the aerosol dispersion in the near- and far-field during spraying. The resulting assessed dose and exposure levels obtained were spread on large scales, of several orders of magnitude. No dose-response relationship was found between exposure indicators and health effects indicators (perceived severity and clinical indicators). Weak relationships were found between unspecific inflammatory response indicators (leukocytes, C-reactive protein) and the maximal exposure concentration. The results obtained disclose a high interindividual response variability and suggest that some indirect mechanism(s) predominates in the respiratory disease occurrence. Furthermore, no threshold could be found to define a safe level of exposure. These findings suggest that the improvement of environmental exposure conditions during spraying alone does not constitute a sufficient measure to prevent future outbreaks of waterproofing spray toxicity. More efficient preventive measures are needed prior to the marketing and distribution of new waterproofing agents.

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Une expertise collective sur l'évaluation des risques liés aux nanomatériaux pour la population générale et pour l'environnement a identifié plusieurs centaines de produits de grande consommation contenant des nanomatériaux, présents dans notre quotidien : textiles, cosmétiques, alimentaires, équipements sportifs, matériaux de construction... Des études nouvelles suggèrent la possibilité de risques pour la santé et pour l'environnement de certains produits. Face à cette situation d'incertitude, l'Afsset recommande d'agir sans attendre au nom du principe de précaution et de 1) Rendre obligatoire la traçabilité des nanomatériaux. Cela passe par une obligation de déclaration par les industriels, 2) la mise en place un étiquetage clair qui mentionne la présence de nanomatériaux dans les produits et informe sur la possibilité de relargage à l'usage, 3) d'aller jusqu'à l'interdiction de certains usages des nanomatériaux pour lesquels l'utilité est faible par rapport aux dangers potentiels, 4) l'harmonisation des cadres réglementaires français et européens pour généraliser les meilleures pratiques : déclaration, autorisation, substitution. En particulier, une révision de REACh s'impose pour prendre en compte les nanomatériaux manufacturés de manière spécifique et quel que soit leur tonnage. L'expertise fait également des recommandations pour construire une méthode renouvelée d'évaluation des risques sanitaires qui soit adaptée aux spécificités des nanomatériaux. Pour cela l'Afsset a testé les méthodologies classiques d'évaluation des risques sur 4 produits particuliers et courants : la chaussette antibactérienne (nanoparticules d'argent), le ciment autonettoyant et le lait solaire (nanoparticules de dioxyde de titane), la silice alimentaire à l'état nanométrique. Ces 4 produits représentent bien les voies d'exposition de l'homme (cutanée, inhalation, ingestion) et la possibilité de dispersion environnementale. Ces travaux font apparaître une urgence à faire progresser les connaissances sur les expositions et les dangers potentiels des nanomatériaux. Aujourd'hui, seuls 2% des études publiées sur les nanomatériaux concernent leurs risques pour la santé et l'environnement. Le premier effort devra porter sur la normalisation des caractéristiques des nanomatériaux. Les priorités de la recherche devront cibler la toxicologie, l'écotoxicologie et la mesure des expositions. Enfin, l'Afsset prévoit de s'autosaisir pour définir en 2 ans, avec son groupe de travail, un outil simplifié d'évaluation des risques. Il s'agit d'une grille de cotation des risques qui permet de catégoriser les produits en plusieurs gammes de risques. Face à ce chantier considérable, une mise en réseau entre les organismes européens et internationaux pour se partager le travail est nécessaire. Elle a commencé autour de l'OCDE qui coordonne des travaux d'évaluation des risques et de l'ISO qui travaille à la mise en place de nouvelles normes. [Auteurs]

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RESUME Les fibres textiles sont des produits de masse utilisés dans la fabrication de nombreux objets de notre quotidien. Le transfert de fibres lors d'une action délictueuse est dès lors extrêmement courant. Du fait de leur omniprésence dans notre environnement, il est capital que l'expert forensique évalue la valeur de l'indice fibres. L'interprétation de l'indice fibres passe par la connaissance d'un certain nombre de paramètres, comme la rareté des fibres, la probabilité de leur présence par hasard sur un certain support, ainsi que les mécanismes de transfert et de persistance des fibres. Les lacunes les plus importantes concernent les mécanismes de transfert des fibres. A ce jour, les nombreux auteurs qui se sont penchés sur le transfert de fibres ne sont pas parvenus à créer un modèle permettant de prédire le nombre de fibres que l'on s'attend à retrouver dans des circonstances de contact données, en fonction des différents paramètres caractérisant ce contact et les textiles mis en jeu. Le but principal de cette recherche est de démontrer que la création d'un modèle prédictif du nombre de fibres transférées lors d'un contact donné est possible. Dans le cadre de ce travail, le cas particulier du transfert de fibres d'un tricot en laine ou en acrylique d'un conducteur vers le dossier du siège de son véhicule a été étudié. Plusieurs caractéristiques des textiles mis en jeu lors de ces expériences ont été mesurées. Des outils statistiques (régression linéaire multiple) ont ensuite été utilisés sur ces données afin d'évaluer l'influence des caractéristiques des textiles donneurs sur le nombre de fibres transférées et d'élaborer un modèle permettant de prédire le nombre de fibres qui vont être transférées à l'aide des caractéristiques influençant significativement le transfert. Afin de faciliter la recherche et le comptage des fibres transférées lors des expériences de transfert, un appareil de recherche automatique des fibres (liber finder) a été utilisé dans le cadre de cette recherche. Les tests d'évaluation de l'efficacité de cet appareil pour la recherche de fibres montrent que la recherche automatique est globalement aussi efficace qu'une recherche visuelle pour les fibres fortement colorées. Par contre la recherche automatique perd de son efficacité pour les fibres très pâles ou très foncées. Une des caractéristiques des textiles donneurs à étudier est la longueur des fibres. Afin de pouvoir évaluer ce paramètre, une séquence d'algorithmes de traitement d'image a été implémentée. Cet outil permet la mesure de la longueur d'une fibre à partir de son image numérique à haute résolution (2'540 dpi). Les tests effectués montrent que les mesures ainsi obtenues présentent une erreur de l'ordre du dixième de millimètre, ce qui est largement suffisant pour son utilisation dans le cadre de cette recherche. Les résultats obtenus suite au traitement statistique des résultats des expériences de transfert ont permis d'aboutir à une modélisation du phénomène du transfert. Deux paramètres sont retenus dans le modèle: l'état de la surface du tissu donneur et la longueur des fibres composant le tissu donneur. L'état de la surface du tissu est un paramètre tenant compte de la quantité de fibres qui se sont détachées de la structure du tissu ou qui sont encore faiblement rattachées à celle-ci. En effet, ces fibres sont les premières à se transférer lors d'un contact, et plus la quantité de ces fibres par unité de surface est importante, plus le nombre de fibres transférées sera élevé. La longueur des fibres du tissu donneur est également un paramètre important : plus les fibres sont longues, mieux elles sont retenues dans la structure du tissu et moins elles se transféreront. SUMMARY Fibres are mass products used to produce numerous objects encountered everyday. The transfer of fibres during a criminal action is then very common. Because fibres are omnipresent in our environment, the forensic expert has to evaluate the value of the fibre evidence. To interpret fibre evidence, the expert has to know some parameters as frequency of fibres,' probability of finding extraneous fibres by chance on a given support, and transfer and persistence mechanisms. Fibre transfer is one of the most complex parameter. Many authors studied fibre transfer mechanisms but no model has been created to predict the number of fibres transferred expected in a given type of contact according to parameters as characteristics of the contact and characteristics of textiles. The main purpose of this research is to demonstrate that it is possible to create a model to predict the number of fibres transferred during a contact. In this work, the particular case of the transfer of fibres from a knitted textile in wool or in acrylic of a driver to the back of a carseat has been studied. Several characteristics of the textiles used for the experiments were measured. The data obtained were then treated with statistical tools (multiple linear regression) to evaluate the influence of the donor textile characteristics on the number of úbers transferred, and to create a model to predict this number of fibres transferred by an equation containing the characteristics having a significant influence on the transfer. To make easier the searching and the counting of fibres, an apparatus of automatic search. of fibers (fiber finder) was used. The tests realised to evaluate the efficiency of the fiber finder shows that the results obtained are generally as efficient as for visual search for well-coloured fibres. However, the efficiency of automatic search decreases for pales and dark fibres. One characteristic of the donor textile studied was the length of the fibres. To measure this parameter, a sequence of image processing algorithms was implemented. This tool allows to measure the length of a fibre from it high-resolution (2'540 dpi) numerical image. The tests done shows that the error of the measures obtained are about some tenths of millimetres. This precision is sufficient for this research. The statistical methods applied on the transfer experiment data allow to create a model of the transfer phenomenon. Two parameters are included in the model: the shedding capacity of the donor textile surface and the length of donor textile fibres. The shedding capacity of the donor textile surface is a parameter estimating the quantity of fibres that are not or slightly attached to the structure of the textile. These fibres are easily transferred during a contact, and the more this quantity of fibres is high, the more the number of fibres transferred during the contact is important. The length of fibres is also an important parameter: the more the fibres are long, the more they are attached in the structure of the textile and the less they are transferred during the contact.